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... and so, in mid July, we had just a few things to do before we could pour concrete. <CUT, CUT, CUT> That's wrong again, you forgot the three spur walls and you've order some wrong parts. Go again, from the top ... and so, in mid July, we had an unknown quantity of things to do before we could pour concrete ? But before all of that happened, as a family we were all brought together for one of the inevitable things about life - every one must some day some to an end, this time it was my Mother-in-Law, a real matriarch, in the best way. After having gone through several operations and rounds of chemotherapy, her cancer got to the brain, and all other plans went on hold. We were able to get back to site shortly after she passed away in late August to continue. She did get to visit the site, and was so pleased with where we going to be living. So, first on the list was the starter bars for the retaining walls with this amazing double row being installed by my erstwhile wife and with all those complete, it was onto the underfloor heating loops and then the bolts that will locate a couple of steel columns Now, the eagle eyed amongst you will recognise those as M16 bolts (well done to all the bolt nerds), and when a steel fabricator came along, having seen the plans, he fortunately pointed out that they should be M20 bolts. So, if anyone is in need of some 300mm M16 bolts and fittings, tap me up for a deal ? And, so we thought we were ready for a bunch of concrete, until we visited our friendly ICF supplier to talk about the walls and realised I had omitted the shoring for three extra pieces of wall that needed to be tied to the main slab. So after a stupidly self-imposed extra delay, we managed to get everything in place to have some jolly super chaps (Tom, Phil and Ross) to bring along a concrete pump and other wonderful paraphernalia to pour, tamp and float our insulated slab foundation. . We can almost smell the completion of the house ? ? ? ?

Personally I would never never use Hermes as they have such a bad reputation round here. I sent mine by Royal Mail tracked and signed for, delivery before noon. At least it was in transit for under 24 hours. Ensure that you send it at the start of the week so that the office is properly open when it arrives.

Yeh, it would be Foxtrot Oscar from me I'm afraid. Tried being reasonable and considerate, but it was always a wasted effort on these numpties. Just to add..... you did the right thing and should be commended for that, but stop it now and avoid / ignore the fools.

We went with norrsken, very happy, we have some huge windows and sliding doors, front and back doors turn up next week.

something about building that brings out the worst in people.

2.3 is for bedrooms will be fine Better to have extra on the GF

2.3 should be fine, 2.4 used to be the base minimum but now there is no minimum and 2.3 is only 100mm less. The room shapes with be something of a factor. A large room with a low ceiling is more of a problem than a small room with a low ceiling because of the way it feels.

While in Birmingham recently, I called into the grand designs live thingy in the NEC. Saw internorm 3g lift and slide door on display there, which I felt was really rather heavy and unpleasant to move. Beautiful looking quality, but not nice to use. Door must have been maybe 3.8 / 4 metres wide, simple 2 panel slider. Now in comparison, I tried a Reynaers CP130 in a showroom maybe a year ago that was the same kind of size, but 2g. That was totally effortless to operate and was lovely to use. Can anyone tell me... does 3g really make "that much" of a diff to operation?

I used royal mail special delivery. My concern was if the package went missing, there was a potential loss of many thousands of pounds. It was impossible to insure the package for that much. So I mitigated that risk by scanning and storing a copy of all the receipts, so if it did get lost I could re print them and re submit.

It sounds like the answer is an insulated kettle...

When the time comes to get measured up get every company in the phone book out and get the prices back. Rule no one in or out till you have it all in black and white in front of you and just compare each and every price with in this case the u values of the windows. You will also get a feel for the company by how the sales rep conducts themselves. If your gut goes no then it's usually right. Then pick a winner.

Hi markc, Ive made a good start going with your fill holes with stones approach. One last hole to block tmrw/ will do a pic. The render has been severley water penetrated behind it, meaning the exposed damaged block crumbly walls can just be scraped & a layer easily falls away, like rice krispies hundreds of small bobbles of concrete. scraped the weakest off.. but faces still weak. Once ive hacked off all the popped render, I really need to 'fix' this block crumbly surface so its solid/ won't deteriorate & then can adhere some mortar/ render xyz on. Would this way be the right sort of idea? Thanks, zooter.

This may be of interest to those who follow DIY VAT decisions. https://www.accountingweb.co.uk/community/blogs/leshoward/multiple-diy-claims

That’s interesting. There is mention of a supplementary claim being allowed in HMRC’s internal manual however not in the circumstances described in the article, and I’ve never heard of anyone sending a supplementary claim and being successful. https://www.gov.uk/hmrc-internal-manuals/vat-construction/vconst24550 The decision also seems to fly in the face of the view that once the completion certificate has been issued zero rating ends too but it’s difficult to see how a builder is supposed to determine when a property is ‘complete’ if there is no clear guidance from HMRC. I guess they would need to check the planning permission and decide whether the work is contained within the plans.

from the government document https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/523010/Party_Wall_etc__Act_1996_-_Explanatory_Booklet.pdf A wall is a "party fence wall" if it is not part of a building, and stands astride the boundary line between lands of different owners and is used to separate those lands (for example a masonry garden wall). This does not include such things as wooden fences or hedges. Walls that are not Party Walls: These may include boundary walls (a fence wall/garden wall built wholly on one owner’s land) and external walls (the wall of a building built up to but not astride the boundary). As you say it is all on their land, that seems to be answered. there may be footings on your side, but technically shouldn't be, so let's not go there for now. Has their surveyor said this to you or is it second-hand from the neighbour? Is the surveyor qualified, and in what? Even RICS covers lots of variable skills and does not necessarily include law/ party wall or even construction. IF other buildhubbers can confirm, then in my opinion: No point in messing. Tell the neighbour your advice is that their surveyor is wrong, but please advise us in writing if you wish. We will hold you liable for all costs from this stage.

Do not serve them with a notice. This is not a Party Wall matter.

These people need to be handled firmly. May upset them as often these people don't like it when they aren't in control , but you need to make it clear to them so they don't believe they can wear you down to giving in by continuing to raise it. They may well stop engaging with you if it does sink in that they simply will not get their way, but that's their call. If you're now ready to sort the fence I would probably knock and say you are going to extend the fence from the corner of the extension and 'remember we previously discussed the trellis against the wall - is that still something you would like - nb I am not going to render that wall and that is final, but I am prepared to add a trellis'. And keep the leylandii tit for tat in your back pocket.

M - we all have those "wood for the trees" moments (pun intended!!) ? Hope it works

What I did is used an anemometer to measure the speed of airflow flowing past the fan to achieve equilibrium at 50Pa. then knowing the area of the fan you calculate the volume of air flowing past the fan in a given time and that Vs the volume of the house gives you ACH. Just a case of scaling to get airflow units and volume of house units the same. So if you want ACH calculate the volume of air flowing past the fan in an hour, and compare that to the total building volume.

Find a small independent SE and talk to him about dropping in metal between the existing and underslinging them from steels across the house (which can be put in in sections and bolted up).

Thanks for the replies, I had to make a decision on this quite quickly as the window firm need to know for the reveal thickness etc. I've gone with the Cedral Click Classic in black. Fortunately, I've used my carpenter for years and he is very careful and fussy - I will give him the heads-up re the scratches. Thanks again, Matt.

Reinstate the fence with chainlink. Satisfies the agreement to reinstate a fence, removes your worry about the wall not being able to breathe, and all your lovely bricks are still exposed for their viewing pleasure.

We found Internorm (feneco) to be the best value aluclad after baskil. Baskil couldn't make a lot of our sized windows so Internorm was best choice. We contacted loads of companies and virtually none did aluclad 3g. Fyi, the wait for imported windows is about 6months at the minute. Get measured up asap.

I can't fault Turkingtons for us, some of their manufacturing is done at Windows 2000 round the corner here in Ards, and Apeer do a big proportion of the composite doors..

Just tell them they missed their change to engage with you so if they don't like how it looks now then tough. How it looks is what you got permission for and that's how it's going to stay. Stop being nice to people who aren't nice to you.

Most of the uPVC window companies here use Camden Windows based in Antrim for supply. You then have other companies like McMullen O'Donnell who have a very good reputation. Baskil which is Munster joinery will make you the cheapest 2g Windows. They also do a 3g future proof window passiv rated which I put in mine. Very few companies here do Alu clad so they charge a premium. Did you go to the self build show in Belfast to see all the displays there???

Oh my word! That is truly impressive progress, and in the context of such a significant family bereavement, all the more so. I'm sorry for your loss - she sounds like . I just can't believe the entry of the word 'stupid' anywhere in your blog as I am absolutely blown away by your and your erstwhile wife's skills, and the progress that you have made. Well done indeed. M

If you are looking for zero maintenance a cheaper option to Aluclad is UPV

actually, make it easier to fix by attaching them to the side of the rafters like this

How about add pieces of wood below the rafters on the North side, the bottom of which come to the same level as the noggins on the E & W sides - see edited drawing.

Yes a satisfied Rationel customer here. I put our windows out to tender to a lot of companies and Rationel were half the price on Internorm, and almost as good. So worth a try.

So mvhr covers your kitchen and bathroom extract requirements.

We’re going for Norrsken windows and doors. Been an absolute pleasure to deal with so far and the price was a lot lower than Internorm and the quality looks good. They will also fit them so it’s all kept under one roof. Ours are due to be fitted in December so once they’re in I’ll have a better idea on the whole experience.

for such a tiny amount barrow it.

I prefer eps beads to go right down to the bottom of the cavity to keep it all warmer and reduce thermal bridging

Lots on here speak highly of Rationel, we are currently awaiting delivery from Allen Brothers- been very impressed with service so far but obviously the proof is when they get here!

No other choice ?

If you have access to the cavity,you can lay timber on the DPC tray & pull it out at the end of the shift or in the morning. Can be used also to push dropped mortar to the coring holes (the bricks left out for cleaning.)

What are you looking for? Timber? Aluclad?

Ahh great, looked to me like the lower semicircle was plaster not the fitting. Cheers

I assume as you are building in ICF you are trying to build a nice warm comfortable house that does not need much heat? Well it WILL need ventilation. the best way to achieve that in a well built air tight house is whole house MVHR. Just 2 holes through the building instead of lots of uncontrolled trickle ventilation holes and various extrac ventilation holes. Don't forget bathroom and utility room extractors needed so yet more holes through your building. Just 2 looks very attractive.

I think you are jumping in at the wrong end here. The key to keeping a boat afloat is mending the hull, not buying an expensive bilge pump. A house with high heat loss will never be comfortable no matter how large you make the heating system. 1. Ensure that the house is properly ventilated. A damp house is automatically a cold feeling house. Ideally install some kind of continuous running mechanical ventilation. This can be a matter of a few £100. 2. DIY rig a depressurisation fan. Many examples on here. Methodically spends a day with caulk, expanding foam and tape sealing any and every draft you can get near. £100 will go an awful long way here. As you are mechanically minded use the opportunity to adjust the windows correctly. Many of them are never aligned and don't seal properly. Airtightness is the single cheapest and most effective trick in improving a houses comfort and efficiency ( must be done in conjunction with proper ventilation) 3. Live with the house for a while. What kind of heating system do you currently have? Buy a cheap inside and outside temperature logger and keep a track of the runtimes of the heating. This will show exactly your heating load. eg if a 20kw boiler needs to run 45 minutes out of 60 deg to keep a house at 20 deg when it is 5deg outside it is equivalent to a 15kw boiler. Extrapolate to the lowest expected temperature, say -5 deg in this instance your maximum heat load would be 25kw. Much more accurate than any guessing about what you might need. 4. Then you will have an excellent idea of what you need to do and spent very little. I expect you will come to the same conclusion most people do. If you have a very high heat demand and a high temperature heating system already installed you will stick to a gas or oil boiler. If you have a low heat demand and ideally a low temperature heating system (huge rads or UFH) an ASHP may be the best route. 5. One seldom considered option is an air to air heat pump. They can have double the COP of a ASHP and have a modest cost in comparison.

Wheelbarrow?

Seems like a lot of energy spent on this thread. Simple answer - remove the access to the roof! Why on earth would you you need access anyway? If you need to to maintain it (once a year) get a specialist cleaner in with a cherry picker.

Only works if it's a genuine backup though - a gas combi won't work without electricity for instance. That means a hot water cylinder is a backup to either gas or electricity to give you hot water during a power cut, but not an extended outage - for which only PV + battery or a solid fuel stove would provide sufficient backup.

G3 done properly is an hour or so job, and you should cool down and drain down then restart it etc. along with checking controls. Boiler service around here is probably £80, plus £45 for a G3 so £125. Can’t see why the service on an ASHP is more than that, I pay £350 for a Sanyo CO2 ASHP and 2 Fujitsu A2A split units including a sanitizer clean of the indoor A2A units.

Thank you for both your replies! Yes PIR has gone up in price and that's a very good idea. Will need to mull it over as I do appreciate the insanity of trying to do it as it was originally planned!

I’ve been put in this scenario myself-it’s an absolute #**#ache. As Declan said-blown in beads or full fill cavity batts are the practical solution. Otherwise,you’ll end up with an improperly inststalled,underperforming insulation system. If the PIR has gone up in price & is still packaged,would you not get the majority of your money back?

@epsilonGreedy what PoE switches are you using? From what you've said, I don't see you need more than 1Gb, so probably the best would be to run 2 x (ideally) CAT6a runs to the garage and set those up as 2 X 1Gb switch uplinks with a Unifi PoE switch on the garage side, for example, with as many ports as you need. If you really anticipate more traffic (or want to futureproof then you can look at doing 2 x fibre runs with 10Gb SFP+ uplinks but the price goes up quite a bit in that scenario.

I'm far from alone - @SteamyTea does just as many experiments to prove or disprove things. If I can't find any hard evidence to prove something I find questionable, the chances are I'll do a quick experiment to better understand it. I still have to dig out the two bits of PIR foam that have been sat outside with lumps of mortar on for months and see if the mortar has had any effect at all on the foil coating. Might dig them out next week and see how they look.