dangti6

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About dangti6

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    Taunton, Somerset

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  1. Will they allow you to order now and firmly lock in the prices for something that will be manufactured/delivered in several months time?
  2. I did my own drawings. I have some pictures saved somewhere of the hilarious efforts I found when searching my local are to see what people had submitted which was a great confidence boost for doing my own using a 20 year old version of corel draw that I’d not used before. If you go on the planning portal it should list exactly what you need. My local authority had a handy list of the prerequisites and they insisted on knowing the paper size it was scaled to. Site plans and location plans will set you back about £20 for the pair. Then it’s your floor plans and elevations, both existing and proposed, and a roof plan in your case if you’re changing that. The main things they will want measurements marked against are the additions. You don’t have to mark the measurements against your existing property, but do against the new. They can scale against the original if they choose to. If you’ve checked your neighbours applications then there’s some good benchmarks to take inspiration from in terms of detail.
  3. I’m going to rinse it all off as I have to do the perimeter later with a 4” disc on an angle grinder to get up tight to the walls. The dust that was created doing this dry without a hepa vac was mental and I can’t bare to be on my knees doing the edges so I’ll wet vac up the slurry and hose the room out. My anthracite coloured garage door covered in dust after having the door up.😬 (I was masked up)
  4. I have now done a couple of passes with a diamond grinder and pinholes may be the least of my worries. Although the top layer of laitance came off easily I have found that there is pitting across the whole area which is no doubt caused by the wet mix and probably goes down deep enough to the point I can’t feasibly continue to grind to find a uniform layer without loosing a lot of depth. I’m in two minds whether a good quality 2 pack epoxy coating will cover over these larger areas without lifting. The optimist in me hopes a couple of layers of high build resin (first coat thinned to penetrate) will keep it all together providing I don’t hit these with pointed loads. Am I dreaming? It’s a domestic garage opposed to an industrial environment remember.
  5. These people need to be handled firmly. May upset them as often these people don't like it when they aren't in control , but you need to make it clear to them so they don't believe they can wear you down to giving in by continuing to raise it. They may well stop engaging with you if it does sink in that they simply will not get their way, but that's their call. If you're now ready to sort the fence I would probably knock and say you are going to extend the fence from the corner of the extension and 'remember we previously discussed the trellis against the wall - is that still something you would like - nb I am not going to render that wall and that is final, but I am prepared to add a trellis'. And keep the leylandii tit for tat in your back pocket.
  6. Forgive me for going off topic as I appreciate your current concern is the noise, but can I ask how you have found the efficiency with it heating you hot water throughout the year, and also (appreciate it's early in the season) as the temperature starts to drop are you now noticing any improvement in the heat output that you were disappointed with last winter? I have been reading up on ASHP and the main take away is how it operates at a lower temperature and constant top ups to maintain a temperate is the way it operates opposed to what I am used to from a gas boiler - instant heat. Running it 24/7 is common from the feedback I have been reading up on. Especially even more so I imagine in an inefficient property that possibly loses the heat quicker than it can compensate for it. Have you ran the heating in the height of summer with the thermostat above the ambient temperature to see if the noise is present when it's not under so much pressure to make up a number of degrees increase? Clutching at straws possibly. If the replacement system is whisper quiet but will not heat up your house due to how you wish to run it and/or the the lack of insulation etc to maintain a comfortable temperature, what are you going to do? Appreciate the not fit fir purpose statements, but could be a case of getting what you asked for not what you wanted. I'd suggest being clear and concise in your written comms with them. Bullet point it and paraphrase the problems and your expectations.
  7. I have bought a small tub of 2 part body filler which states is suitable for concrete, so I will try it out and see how hard it is. You can drill it, and I'm sure with the coating on top it will be fine for a domestic setting. I am looking at doing a primer coat and two top coats of epoxy so I have time for a plan B if the primer doesn't play ball with the holes I guess. These holes below are an example I found online where moisture has caused issues in a coating, but the same bubbling appearance was my fear due to air but we'll see what happens. Thanks for the heads up with Promain, they have been very helpful in suggesting a product. One thing I need to go back to them about is non slip additives as that wasn't mentioned in my quote. Did you add any? I am in two minds about it and unsure realistically how slippery it would be with wet feet.
  8. For myself. I have done 2 coats of 'fresh plaster paint' which is fine but no doubt I will be making a dusty mess out there over the years and I figured as I already had this stuff, a 3rd coat of that would give me a more washable layer whereas the emulsion would probably get dirty quite quick and smudge/rub in when wiped.
  9. Hi. There's a mix really but nothing massive. I have only ground a small area at the moment where I have uncovered some small holes and a couple of larger ones. No idea what I'll find when I do the whole area (40sqm). Photos speak a thousand words as they say. Here's the slab where I have ground it and the area behind that's yet to have the laitance etc removed. These are the small pin holes. These are the two largest holes. Vernier shows the depth for reference. In an old 30+ year old concrete slab which I have butted up to, there are some deeper or wider dents from cat paws etc which need filling. Where the two slabs meet there is a join, naturally. No doubt the paint will crack also so I am contemplating running a grinder down this line between old and new and filling that whilst I am at it. Resincoat, who I am buying the epoxy from sell an epoxy mortar, but it does look quite thick for the smaller areas and sandy as you say and is probably more suited for pot holes. Ideally I want to use a polyfilla paste type material which I can press in with a putty knife. Do you have any recommendations on a brand to go for? This sounds ideal but out of bloody stock: Clicky Someone mentioned car body filler. That's on my reserve list.
  10. Thanks - that could have got messy!
  11. Usually I'd probably not give this a second thought, but having recently used expired silicone which failed to cure, I am wary. I have a large 10l tub of white Sandtex masonry paint which I bought 7 or 8 years ago. It's unopened and hasn't been stored in freezing conditions. If it's deteriorated, what negative effects could I expect? It's to throw on some internal blockwork to brighten up a garage opposed to being used externally where I wouldn't take any risks. When I open it, if it looks like paint and smells like paint I will probably hope for the best at £35/40 a tub.
  12. Thanks @nod is that 4 parts SBR to 1 part water?
  13. I am prepping my garage floor with a diamond grinder for a epoxy resin finish and having ground some areas I have found some bug holes / pin holes in the concrete caused by air bubbles or whatnot. I don’t want leave them and epoxy over the top as it will likely cause air bubbles in the finish. I understand when going for a polished concrete floor, a grout is added which fills such holes. I’m struggling to find such a product to buy. Epoxy mortars are probably to thick for small (single figure mm) holes so I’m wondering whether a cement and water slurry spread over may fill these in before a final pass with the diamond grinder or if anyone has any recommendations for a slurry/grout product. Thanks
  14. Wheelbarrow wheels squeak so the boss knows how fast the labourers are working 😂