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  1. 9 points
    I've finally got around to starting this blog. I'm hoping that it'll be easily updated and I'll provide lots of good pictures and info...we'll see how that goes. I'm at the point now where we have just taken our first big delivery, which is our insulated foundation system from Kore, this morning. So albeit, this process of building a house has been ongoing for some time, it has just become real that we are at the beginning of the build phase, which is very exciting. Some light background info - I've always wanted to build a house for the last 5-10 years, but it was a distant dream and wasn't quite sure how feasible it would be. I grew up in a rural house, my parents bought in 1983, modernised and updated over the years. It was a great childhood and spent many hours in the fields and in our garden, even just cutting the grass was fun (1 acre and a ride on mower). We sold that when I was 21 and ever since I've wanted to return to that life. I have two young kids of my own now and hence the want to return to the countryside to give them what I had was strong. I was always keen on building, swmbo, wasn't as such. So we searched and searched, but mostly the houses we could find that suited our needs were out of league (price!) and even if they were to be in our league there were things we would change or in the end it would be expensive to run. And hence that search helped my other half make the realisation that self build was our only option. My dad died in 2017 after a long illness with Dementia, a relief for him and for everyone else involved. We were very close and I took care of him day in and out, until he was in care. He was an engineer and had owned his own business since I was a child, albeit he lived a pretty simple life and was happy being at home in the garden he made and house he had renovated. Riding around on the ride on mower enjoying a quiet life...and now I guess that's exactly where I want to be. His passing left us with a little inheritance which has allowed this dream of self building to become a reality, I'm very thankful for this. I know it is something he would have been very excited to be part of and watch us do. So after messing around since 2017 and not being able to negotiate a plot or find one that was suitable (there's a lengthy thread on this!) I'd finally identified 4 acres in July 2019. It took a bit of time ( I had to confirm services and remove an Agricultural tie) but completed purchase in Jan 2020. I'll not cover the planning process in detail, but the plot had legacy planning permission which was 24 years old, but at that time the development had commenced and hence it was a straightforward change and submission of our designs. Building warrant was granted a week ago, with very little hassle really. I joined Buildhub in September 2019 or thereabouts. It's been a wealth of information that has helped me shape the design of the house and provided no end of guidance which I am very thankful for. It has allowed me to validate my opinions and approaches and learn from others to ensure i am following the right path. I started out prior to buildhub wanting a SIPS house, in fact googling that may have made me find my way here. Quickly I decided I wanted an insulated foundation too, I went around in circles a little bit with both of these decisions and reading others opinions on here. I even thought at one point they would both be too expensive for me , however I sit here writing this first post having taken delivery of my insulated foundation today and my SIPS kit is on order and due sometime in February. I don't actually need the insulated foundation till mid-late January but made a decision to get it in the country before Brexit issues occur and tariffs are possibly applied in January (rumoured at 6%). I'm very glad I made that decision as today our new strain of COVID has caused everyone to close the doors to us here in the UK, another couple of days and god knows when I would have gotten it. There is lots of other decisions and stuff has gone on in the background with planning and mortgages and budgets to get here, but that is mostly done and hence I feel this is the end of the beginning and now we can enter the start of the middle.... I'm very pleased and excited for the road ahead. I like pictures in blogs....here's a few of the Insulated foundation delivery today. Stored at a friends farm for the time being. It's being stored outside, has a few tractor tyres on it now to stop it blowing away and the main pallets are all strapped down. That's me standing on top.......
  2. 3 points
    The most affordable option is to stick build with a local joiner or use a local building firm. If you are in Scotland easier to do. I saved loads that way and the cashflow was to my advantage. If you want speed and less hassle than a Scotframe kit could work well for you, but that comes at a cost. On a personal note I was not impressed by Scotframe they didn't even come back to me when I was in touch.
  3. 3 points
    my carpenter/joiner/builder made the gutter out of marine ply then the roofers made a zinc liner for it on site. At 14meters long it actually goes in 2 directions each end of the house with hidden pipes in the walls.
  4. 3 points
    Do it yourself. Save a fortune and you will get it done the way you want. Note: I am a project manager.... it’s not rocket science
  5. 3 points
    Milestone reached today: all the Mains dimming circuits are terminated to the panel. Slight frustration of the Weidmuller terminal blocks is the Live core is hidden under the neutral wire, so if you have a few circuits not yet terminated at the fixture end it's tricky to make them safe on the panel. In theory the spring clips should make it easy to disconnect unused cores. The WhiteWorks dimmers are very nice. The built in test modes very handy indeed.
  6. 2 points
    As a very good alternative, I would throw fleming homes into the mix. I would have used them for ours but they don't do SIPS. However jad I been timber frame I would have chosen then. They erect also so no VAT outlay. If you look for @Redoctobers blog he had a house built by them. If you're going to extensively modify a standard design you are as well doing your own design. Fleming also have annin house design service.
  7. 2 points
    I think there is a misconception here that a "passive house" does not need heating. I think in the UK climate most will need some form of heating, but just not very much of it.
  8. 2 points
    This is not a paid for professional service where you might properly expect measured responses from all contributors. Nobody can know exactly what's meant by written text. So much gets - as you say - lost intranslation. Thats normal. This board is a teaching and learning resource. It does not offer a Members' Needs Analysis such as those offered by other online teaching formal, paid for teaching institutions . So respondents to your posts cannot know what you dont know. But, out of kindness, they respond anyway. Thats why it is very suprising indeed that you react with visible frustration at the perceived quality of responses. One technique which is very powerful in online teaching and learning is to ask the person posting to summarise what he or she thinks she has learned. As a simple post - just bullet points. That does three things, It reassures readers that you have made an effort to understand them It allows time for you to internalise some of the teaching Its helps set the agenda for further development. Try it. Please.
  9. 2 points
    hopefully as you bought a means of measuring temperature you can provide the data to help us help you. instead of not answering the questions that people have been posting for 20 odd pages, why dont you post the info on the radiator dimensions, types of radiator, room size, glazing size, type of construction etc, make model of ASHP etc etc.
  10. 2 points
    Yep - materials not installed or fixed have no value, see this regularly with surveys.
  11. 2 points
    In case anyone else gets these error messages, the problem turned out to be mice had eaten through the communication cable outside that goes to the external unit. This has been replaced and it's all working now.
  12. 2 points
    Morning all - and to coin a phrase "Well! Well! Well!" ProDave would appear to be psychic! His first thought that "... the heat requirements of your house are too high for the heat pump you have" seem to have been spot on. The installation company rep confessed that they had installed the wrong size pump! The original calculations suggested a 7kw whereas it should have been a 14kw! My uninformed increase of pump size to 9kw, while seemingly a step in the right direction, still fell way short of the mark. So within the next week or so they are to fit a 14kw heatpump. As this 9kw almost does the trick I assume a 14kw should cope easily? A word of explanation won't be amiss even though I have named no names. The installer is a privately owned company who specialise in heat pumps. Until recently i.e. within the last few days! they sub-contracted out the EPC and heat calculationss to a fully qualified third party who it seems f.u.b.a.b. [b.a.b. = beyond all belief]. Mine were not the only calculations he got wrong; there are two other installations that are apparently similarly afflicted. The installation company is now doing all its own calculations 'in house'. Hey ho. For what it's worth, having turned back ON the 'True Radiant' option on my thermostat, the heatpump was thashing away more-or-less all night long. Come the appointed hour [08:00] the temp was 17.5º [as opposed to the 18º demanded]. Temp outside most of last night was about -2ºC according to a rather unreliable trail camera I have set up to record hedge hogs; it is now around 8ºC according to an equally unreliable cheap stick-on thermometer and the heatpump is chassing the target temp of 20ºC demanded from 10:00 til 15:00. Thanks for all the help and I will report back once the new heatpump is up and running.
  13. 2 points
    Aha ok that makes sense. Right hinge here ( not fixed obviously). 10" long the door side: i hope with 3x instead of 2x like my other bedroom doors i think 12" jobs, they'll be sufficient. Door is bit thicker @ 20mm (plus 25mm ledges, chosen just in case I need to put PIR on the back).
  14. 2 points
  15. 2 points
    That may not be the best idea. The airing cupboard is likely to be the warmest room in the house, probably only filled with clean clothes that are maybe slightly damp. With an extract in there you’ll be sending that warm air straight outside (via the heat exchanger) and getting slightly less warm air back. If the airing cupboard could vent to the hallway you could spread some of that warm clean smelling air around the house before expelling it.
  16. 2 points
    Now that the EU-UK Trade Agreement is finalised, and due to be signed, this new thread is about self-build in the new environment. There is a decent summary of the agreement here: at the Institute for Government, which has both the salient points of the agreement and an interpretation in human-ese: https://www.instituteforgovernment.org.uk/publication/future-relationship-trade-deal We will keep the focus a little (!) more tightly on self-build than the previous threads. Ferdinand
  17. 2 points
    Is it meant to be all different colours? What an appalling mish-mash of "styles" though there's nothing stylish about it. Looks like they took the scaffolding down before it was rendered.
  18. 2 points
    For you I’ll do it for £59.50 as they are a doddle ..! They need a good set of eyes to see the terminals and a small screwdriver so I tend to make them up on the kitchen table with some tails on and use Wagos to connect them. Make a power fly lead using a plug and you can test and programme on the bench first as they keep their memory for ages. The main issue I found was getting it to recognize on the phone app, so use an Android tablet or laptop - also worth adding your phone hotspot as a secondary internet provider so if you lose the internet signal you can still access the unit. Monitoring is good too - I’ve got a couple (one is a 1PM with the sensor header) and it gives me the outputs of the sensors over a period of time and you can download the data too. Nice touch is the override switch - if you go for a retractive switch it means it can never be left “On” and lock out the controls from the app or the timer.
  19. 2 points
    I have done it twice before, TVs are not as heavy now as when I first wall mounted one. The first time, I cut out the PB and mounted the bracket directly to the wall so its solid and the TV sits nice and close to the wall, now on the third TV on this bracket - the first TV (one of the first plasmas) weighed in at over 70kg The second time I did it I used Corefix plasterboard fixings - they have a steel sleeve that fits through the plasterboard and into the block. I have also used them for hanging heavy cupboards etc. They would be my choice.
  20. 2 points
    Gus’ Structural Engineering and DIY Part 01 Hello all. I’m giving the blog feature on BH a go.. lots to learn and a special thanks to the FMG / members who run / contribute to this site. This blog is built around the structural alterations and extension that I embarked on.. off.. on.. at the back of my house. I work in the construction industry, mostly in an office these days so this project has given me a break from the computer and allows me to keep my hand in on the tools. I have “experimented” at times. Some experiments have worked out ok, some less so. The blog is not chronological as you’ll soon see. As I go I’ll pick out some common elements that you may find on a self build / DIY project and try and show how I went about their structural design and so on.. Although it’s a relatively small extension many of the design principles can be scaled / adapted up for a new build etc. I hope this will be of interest. If anyone has any questions / advice then just post and I’ll do my best to respond. Please remember that if you are undertaking structural design / work or something that could be a safety risk then always get it checked by a competent person unless of course you are the "that person" before starting work. So here goes! As a quick overview the project involves taking a chunk out of the back of the house and building a rear extension. One aim was to make this as least disruptive as possible so we could keep living in the house with some normality. Other reasons were to save some money and get something bespoke to us. In the next posts I’ll cover some of the different aspects of how I went about the detailed structural design. Photo 01: Sun room sticking out – freezing cold – to be demolished but kept as a secure store room for tools for a while. Fig A 01. Eventually.. What’s going on here? Photo 02 The extension is getting roughed out over the sun room, the sun room was retained for a while to stop dust getting into the house, security and so on. For the eagle eyed.. table saw, yes I know the table saw is missing the guard but it is “under maintenance” The ladder (ex BT which some may recognise) was gifted to me by an old sparkie, who got it from someone, who got it from.. Photo 03: Old sun room down and preparing trench (under radiator and old back door) for temporary strip found to support props. Really soft ground just outside the original wall hence the temporary strip found. The old doors windows are fitted into the new structure to give a bit of daylight. The radiator still works.. as I’m a bit soft. Photo 04: Timber props and needles going in. Photo: 05 The upper side of the steel with the needles cut back. “Sadly” the old sun room is gone. The timbers I could reclaim have been.. the rest has gone on the wood burner. Photo 06: Needles cut back on the inside with restraint straps at ceiling level.. to be explained in following posts. That's it for now until I work out what to do next!
  21. 2 points
    That is going to be a complicated extension, incorporating support for bedroom 5 that sits on the existing side wall of the garage. The planners may not like it extending further forward. If it's a recent development you may need covenant permission that might not be forthcoming. You will need to join it to the neighbours wall with their permission, or alternatively build your own wall very close to theirs with all the complications that entails.
  22. 2 points
    The path we trod to get here was somewhat different to what we had planned. All because we could not sell the old house a few years back. This shows you have to be flexible with your plans, and against all the odds we found a way through and money appeared, in dribs and drabs and we got there. The result of the slow build with more work done ourselves, is of course a cheaper build. And the payback for all the hard work, we still have the old house so when that eventually sells, the proceeds from that is now entirely for the retirement pot. Yes of course the word "finished" does not mean we will not do any more to the house. There are already some changes to make post completion, and everything is just painted white so the final decorating is to be done. And I didn't mention we don't have curtains or blinds, or even carpets upstairs, they are expenses that can wait until we know where we are with our final small pot of money. A big thank you to all the buildhubbers for helping to keep us going through thick and thin.
  23. 2 points
    At the end of the day conversions and new builds both end up paying the same 0% VAT. Its just the route to achieving that which is different... Materials In both cases (new and conversion) materials are charged to you at 20% and you reclaim all of the 20%. Services Services are treated differently: Conversions: Builder/electrician charges you 5% and you reclaim the 5% New Build: Builder/electrician charges you 0%. (nothing to reclaim). Supply and fit (eg Materials and Services) on one invoice Conversions: Builder/electrician charges you 5% on both labour and materials and you reclaim the 5% New Build: Builder/electrician charges you 0% on both labour and materials (nothing to reclaim). That's right. Some trades will be reluctant to 0% or 5% rate their supply and fit because they will have paid 20% on the materials when they purchased them. However they MUST be persuaded. If you pay them 20% in error you cannot reclaim that back from HMRC. They can get the 20% back that they paid when they submit their VAT return. Sometimes it helps to give them a certificate (aka letter) with your planning reference details on it and suitable magic words like "I certify this work was carried out on a new build/conversion". In summary: If you buy PV panels yourself and pay an electrician to fit them to a property being converted you should pay: 20% on the Panels (which you reclaim). 5% on the electrician (which you also reclaim). If buying panels from ebay check they can/will provide a VAT receipt!
  24. 2 points
    Welcome to the forum! Yes. The new planning grant will come with a new CIL liability. The CIL liability only takes effect when you start implementing the Planning Grant. So there is no liability for the old one UNLESS the current owner has already started implementing it. You might suggest your solicitor ask the seller to confirm that it hasn't in writing. I mention it because "starting" is sometimes done to preserve an old Planning Grant that is about to expire. Once you have started a Planning Grant normally lasts forever. How long has it got left? Ideally you want at least a year to give time to get your new application approved before the old one expires. If you are building the house to live in yourself you can apply for an exemption from the CIL however it is extremely important to follow the process for claiming the exemption to the letter using the right forms because if you don't you can find yourself liable for it with no way back. Do not start any work on site untill you have confirmation that the exemption application has been processed. Some people have been caught out by letters from the council saying that as self builders they will be exempt. That's true but ONLY if you formally claim the exemption. The process is detailed at the top of Form 7 here (in the arrows). https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200136/policy_and_legislation/70/community_infrastructure_levy/5 Note that you must live there as your principle residence for 3 years after completion as well.
  25. 2 points
    You haven't wasted six months of your life if you walk away. You have a wealth of experience that nobody can take away from you now. By that, perhaps Russ meant be persistent.
  26. 2 points
    From an architect's point of view that initial 'feasibility' or 'outline design' stage can be the most difficult to price because the amount of work involved can be very variable. It might be that you pretty much know what you want, and it's just a matter of drawing up some basic plans to check it all works in principle, and it does, and the job is pretty much done. On the other hand, you might think you know what you want, but would also like to have some other options suggested to you. Or, what you think you want turns out not to work. And you might be very decisive or you might be quite indecisive and the process ends up going through quite a lot of options and sub-options, or you change your mind about something once one design has already been pursued in a fair bit of detail. Then there might be unexpected complications that make the project more difficult than it appears at the outset, or various unknowns that arise. Some of these kinds of things mean that it turns out you can't actually complete the 'feasibility' stage without doing some things that might normally come at a later stage. For example, perhaps you need to get a structural engineer involved to know whether something's going to work. Or, you might decide it makes sense to make a planning application or initial enquiry, before going down too far down the line with something that turns out to be a no-no from a planning point of view. And then there's quite a variation in what can be presented as far as drawings are concerned. Some basic floorplan layouts, or detailed 3d visualisations? There's a judgement about what's necessary to help someone make a well informed decision, and what's overkill. I guess my advice would be to pay most attention to the quotes which are accompanied with a bit of detail about what they actually propose to do for that "feasibility" stage. Where they simply state "feasibility" and then a price, then you don't really know what they are assuming or what you're getting. And it will give you a clue about whether their expectations broadly match with yours. Have they given an estimate, say, of how many face-to-face meetings they expect to have with you? If an architect has come to see you, and look at the property, or at least had a bit of a chat with you on the phone, then that's probably a good sign that they've put some thought into what's actually likely to be involved - including getting an idea of what sort of client you might be, and what you actually want.
  27. 1 point
    I've had time to think about your post Dave. We deliberately designed the switching so that anyone entering the house (legitimately) could switch on lights all over the house. We did that for security reasons. I don't want to go into it in any detail, but it doesn't take too much imagination to figure out why a house owner would want to be able to do that. I'd like to make the switches serve us, not the other way around - so adapting this idea My mate has a 3D printer. There ain't nowt he can't wire up - he's made his own flight simulator in his massive shed We'll '... fab summat oop lad ...' as he says. I'm really gettin' in to this now. Who knows even @Onoff might have a thought or two about this.....
  28. 1 point
    Hi Simon. When i did my daughters about a year ago, it was a full refurb, but they were living there. I fitted a gas boiler with the usual single flow and return. I split the flow into 2 and ran each flow to a (bugger, cant remember the name) electronic valve. from each of these i ran 22mm flow pipes to a manifold that i made myself from copper pipe, lever valves etc. 22mm in, and 15mm out. each of the outs had the ability to be manually turned off. I ran one of the manifolds to the understairs cupboard downstairs, and one to a bedroom upstairs that was eventually hidden behind a wardrobe with a removable panel. I made sure that all the feeds to my rads were less than 6 metres away from my manifolds. This allowed me to work on the house, room by room, and anytime i wanted to add a radiator, i did not have to turn off, or drain down. I then by-passed the built in clock on the boiler, and fitted a three way timer. Water, Heating upstairs, Heating downstairs. To be honest it works fantastically, and in the future for decoration, alterations etc, each rad can be isolated and removed, without the need to drain down, or switch off.
  29. 1 point
    Shutting off the bedroom heating has made a big difference. Last year when we ran the underfloor heating as recommended we found that the 9kw Sunamp ran out of puff very quickly leading to cold water rather to often. As noted on other Buildhub posts the mvhr is not that efficient in redistributing heat so we have an approx. 2 degree difference in the room temps. The cooler bedrooms suit us , the only downside is that the bathrooms which are part of the bedroom loops (bungalow) are a bit chilly and definitely need the towel rail boost. I recognise that our approach is a compromise and does make proper use of the underfloor heating but the costs of an ashp ,both capital and servicing , coupled with the disruption to the finished build are putting us off that route.
  30. 1 point
    I must admit I've moved on myself a couple of times but have always returned as I'm interested in the subject, can always learn more from others and, more to the point, don't like to think of anyone being persistently cold as that's no fun at all. Very frustrating though.
  31. 1 point
    Open fires have a net cooling effect as they draw out more heat energy (the warm air) than they radiate out (don't know about back boilers). They have no place in our world anymore. There's a house (about 150m²) that's just got fpp across the road from us and they have three open fires and a wood fired pizza oven in their house design... It'll either be freezing or unbearably warm 😅. Not sure how they'll pass their air tightness test. And your MVHR won't work properly at all, esp when it's windy or the fire is lit. So you'll be better off with trickle vents and bathroom extractors. And you'll also need a wall vent in the rooms where the fires are, so even draughtier. I think a room sealed stove is the obvious compromise.... You can always fire the door open for effect when the mood takes you. Sorry to be negative, but that's the reality.
  32. 1 point
    I suggest just extend the living room. Straighten the wall in the kitchen to increase the WC into a shower room. Use the under-stairs cupboard to access part of the garage as a utility / coat room. Like this:
  33. 1 point
    Depends what you are looking for and how much you are prepared to pay. Is this a new build ..?? search for M&E Consultant or M&E contractor and you should be able to find one.
  34. 1 point
    Alot of us have used Ubiflex and it looks really smart. Put this is the search engine on here
  35. 1 point
    4 way refrigeration shuttle valve ..!!! Complex way of working but they are very neat.
  36. 1 point
    @TerryE has chapter and verse on them on his top blog.
  37. 1 point
    What's wrong with metal coat hangers? They make excellent cavity ties! 😂
  38. 1 point
    Electric ones don’t break down as much! But for more hardcore cutting (excuse the pun) petrol can’t be beat.
  39. 1 point
    As a consumer, you can not usually contact Openreach directly as they only deal directly with the service providers (BT, Talk Talk etc..). However, you can engage with them when they're on site. Here's my suggestion, based on what I did for my site where I wanted to avoid re-connection to the pole and instead route underground (I had done all the ducting & drawstring on my side). 1) pick a provider and submit an order for a new connection, should be free or near to but you will need to sign a 12 /18 / 24 month contract. 2) OR will book a visit, sometimes the attending engineer can survey but they may need to come back with a more qualified head. This is when you can quiz them on what needs done and what the options are. i.e. doing your own ducting, digging, road crossing and cable laying - you can buy the OR approved grey ducting and gel filled cable which, if you leave at the base of the pole they will happily use (or if you're lucky they may give you some). My guy advised that I would be better off doing most of the work independently as it would be much cheaper. 3) OR will generate a formal quote and you can then price up your DIY alternatives. As expected, OR was almost twice what I could do independently as they're using 3rd party firms for road work etc who charge by the metre. However, ensure your own option has priced necessary permits for road closures and will do the correct finish etc. Also consider 'moleing' under the road which can work out cheaper. 4) If you want to use OR, accept their quote. If not, decline quote and allow order with the service provider to lapse. Go get your enabling works done independently. 5) When ready, go back to step 1 (you need to wait at least 30 days for the original OR quote to expire) and when OR come to site to survey they should be happy with what has been done.
  40. 1 point
    Turner Timber Frames, based in Hull but have nationwide coverage, did a fantastic job for us. They are timber engineers really rather than just frame builders. First class product. First class service (both technical and practical). And a fair price. One of the most important aspects of self building, which is too often overlooked when wrestling with the technological challenges, is choosing the “right” people to work with. From the architect (if you use one) right down to the brickie’s labourer, it makes such a difference. We count ourselves very fortunate to have worked (mostly) with good tradesmen and suppliers, and some of them were great, a pleasure to work with. Turner’s were up there among the best of them.
  41. 1 point
    @AliG - the current "utility area" is nothing more than a glorified side passage! I wasn't thinking about extending the utility side beyond the current back of the house, but a 4m extension backwards for the rest gives plenty to play around with. It's not a conservation area but it is intended to be a forever home. I'm leaning towards what ProDave is saying and may have to park this one. There is a nice 6 bed Edwardian just up to the road, with a much bigger footprint and garden - but it may end up being some sort of money pit!
  42. 1 point
    In theory the roof membrane should be breather membrane, however you could put some small wedges in the laps to increase ventilation. I suspect moisture is coming through the ceiling into the loft and the membrane simply can’t disperse it fast enough, so it simply condenses and then drips. remember not all breather membrane is created equally, so try some methods such as the simple one I’ve suggested to increase airflow
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
    I like these ones https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CENTRAL-HEATING-ROOM-THERMOSTAT-WITH-MANIFOLDS-ACTUATOR-IDEAL-FOR-UFH/323866870601?hash=item4b67f84349:g:1OsAAOSwEetV8s17 Sold there as a package but available on their own for about £10 each. I have to dash no so no time to search for them.
  45. 1 point
    You could use 3 phase track as used mainly in commercial and retail settings. You can fit luminaires from any manufacturer as it’s pretty much a universal standard plus you get the advantage of up to 3 circuits on the same track and are able to reconfigure luminaires to a different circuit by just unclippping them and flipping a switch. Can be recessed or surface mounted. Price ranges vary but definitely worth looking at.
  46. 1 point
    Might well be several buried under the debris.
  47. 1 point
    What are you doing outside? You need your paving / decking or at least a step set so the sill rests on that.
  48. 1 point
    I cycled it north to south in 1999. It is a varied coast, disappointingly familiar to the mundane parts of the UK coast in places.
  49. 1 point
    I’m not 100% sold on your roof build up. 1.. I don’t believe you need to leave the 50mm void between insulation and your sarking board. As you have a ventilation gap above the boards. I’m happy to be told I’m wrong. 2. What is providing your vapour control layer ? so why not use standard pir under the rafters instead of insulated plaster in the area of the duct and bring the duct closer to the surface so it has full insulation behind it and only a strip of pir missing where the duct is.
  50. 1 point
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