Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 18/05/21 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Work continues on the last room in the house, the sun room. Now it has windows time to get it finished inside. So i estimated I needed 10 boards and those were delivered. Of course I should have taken the time to estimate that more accurately. By the time the ceiling and one gable wall was boarded, it was looking clear I needed another board. Not an easy thing to buy a single sheet of plasterboard. So I set about collecting all the offcuts of plasterboard I had left over from other parts of the house, and with some very diligent and careful planning to work out how best to use what I had, I managed to get it all done, and now very very few bits left over at all. Next task, taping and filling then painting.
  2. 3 points
    Took the drip bead former and sides off of my pier cap mould. Looks like it has potential. Clearly a (very) few air bubbles got trapped but thinking maybe I can fill them with something? Gave the top a quick going over with a piece of broken Celcon then hoovered the top and the drip channels. I'll let it set for a couple of days then invert onto a pallet and see what the top side has come out like. Where I siliconed the internal corners and ran the Fugi Cramer tool along seems to have worked and given me rounded edges. I'll put the two best edges the side you see! 😂
  3. 3 points
    I like cooker hoods to have stainless steel grease filters that go in the dishwasher and are externally vented via min 150 dia ducting.
  4. 3 points
    No the mixer is correct if you look at how it is piped, it’s the manifolds that are wrong. On some you can swap the flow meters for the actuators but it’s easier with these to slack off the grey nuts and switch the manifolds over.
  5. 2 points
    "A semi-detached show-home on the outskirts of Gateshead may seem an unlikely location for a technology revolution. But when this outwardly unremarkable looking building opens its doors in the coming weeks, it will mark a key moment in the UK’s accelerating transition to a zero-carbon economy. When the programme began, it was as much about ruling out hydrogen as an option as anything else, but as the project team worked its way through key questions on everything from the feasibility of hydrogen appliances to public acceptance, the case for putting the gas at the heart of the UK’s energy transition grew stronger. “As the programme’s progressed we’ve discovered everything is feasible and found a way over various hurdles.” “Everyone’s beginning to realise this really could be a very real possibility.” One of the keys to this has been the input from some of the biggest names in domestic heating, including the UK’s market leading boiler manufacturer Worcester Bosch, which has developed a prototype hydrogen-ready boiler that’s about to be put through its paces in a series of major trials. Worcester Bosch CEO Carl Arntzen told The Engineer that when the company began seriously looking into hydrogen around five years ago, it set out to answer two key questions: can it be safely burned in a domestic boiler, and is it possible to make a hydrogen boiler that’s the same size as an existing system? Artntzen’s team began by looking at what the differences between hydrogen and natural gas might mean in terms of engineering fundamentals. An early win was the realisation that hydrogen and natural gas have a broadly similar Wobbe index. This is a measure of the amount of heat energy within a given volume of gas. Artnzen explained that whilst hydrogen has a lower calorific value than natural gas, its density is much greater, meaning the same volumes of hydrogen and natural gas will give roughly the same heat energy. This provided early confidence that not only could a hydrogen boiler be physically the same size (and therefore wouldn’t require future customers to reconfigure their homes) but that it would also be compatible with the existing gas network. “The size of the existing gas network is roughly OK and supplies the same amount of energy whether you supply 100 percent natural gas or 100 per cent hydrogen,” he said. Nevertheless, the properties of hydrogen did present a number of engineering challenges. For instance, it has a much faster flame speed when compared to natural gas which, said Arntzen, created some initial challenges around how to control the combustion process. The team also encountered some early problems with “flashback”, a result of both the flame speed and shorter flame height of hydrogen. “The ignition was lighting the fuel upstream of the burner so we were getting a backfire,” he explained. “It was perfectly safe but of course your boiler going bang every few minutes is not really desirable!” Both of these findings prompted a redesign of the burner face to more effectively manage the flow of the gas within the appliance. Another key challenge was around monitoring and controlling the flame. Whilst existing domestic boilers sense the presence of a flame by detecting the electric current generated by carbon molecules within the gas, the absence of carbon molecules in hydrogen meant they had to look at different solutions for flame detection. At this point, said Arntzen, it became clear that it wouldn’t be possible to simply convert existing gas boilers to run on hydrogen, and the concept of a hydrogen-ready boiler was born, a system that would initially run on natural gas but which could be switched over to hydrogen with a minimum of fuss. “It goes into your house and burns natural gas, then, four or five years after you have it installed when you get notified that your area is going to be converted to hydrogen we come back in, quickly change a few components, and that boiler’s ready to burn hydrogen.” The Full Article can be read here:- https://www.theengineer.co.uk/low-carbon-engineering-hydrogen-home/ (The posted readers comments after the 'Engineer magazine' article are not quite so positive....)
  6. 2 points
  7. 2 points
    The metal will only be the corner beads. Cut that away with a fine tooth hacksaw, then chisel into the plaster with an old small chisel to allow the glass in. then make good with filler.
  8. 2 points
    If there’s a 10mm gap, go concrete solid and fit a 10mm blade of steel plate to create a Flitch beam and put your worries to bed. You could park a car on that.
  9. 2 points
    Cheers guys for all the pointers! Up to DPC now and they are looking good. Mortar still wet in the pictures. Past DPC we are going to use a light grey mortar with V or raked out joint to show off the rough edges of the brick.
  10. 2 points
    For sure. Prices will hit their terminal points where people just will stop buying whatever the item is - production will continue and then as the demand drops off prices will start to trend downwards again till it reaches a sensible level. The new normal might well be slightly higher than before (it might even drop lower as there will be excess with extra production going on just now). It's just the time it will take to do that. But main people who buy wholesale like the Builders merchants and commercial homebuilders are already shutting sites and refusing to buy at the current prices so for timber/ concrete etc (which I believe is the highest demand right now) this shoudl be us at or near the peak in my opinion. It was the same for mutli finish and plaster last year. Now go in B&Q and it stacked pallets and pallets high and not an issue I believe. There will be other items that it moves onto not quite sure what they are yet but it'll calm down.
  11. 2 points
    Bad luck. I had the same, so many mistakes I noticed, that I asked them to stop whilst I got up to speed finding the ones I hadn't noticed. They never did finish it and I now need to rectify. It can be very difficult to get anyone else to come on mid project, so I hope you find a solution. One thing tho' start to read every last detail of the drawings etc and you may now find where they were winging it or whether they are stringing it out, and wish you had a fixed price contact. On a daily rate tho', there seems no good to reason to cut corners apart from ignorance. Agree with the above. As I am a first timer, it's less stressful to have good gaps between trades.
  12. 2 points
    My thoughts are stick to what the structural engineer said, then design in your insulation.
  13. 2 points
    They actually use very expensive breathable paint specifically selected for application on ‘wet’ plaster. I asked when I did DIY SOS in Swansea. Not a single corner cut on that one, and I expected to see some being cut of course. I think the unfortunate folk who benefit from such help would not give a toss about some shrinkage cracks, nobody in a Persimmon or Wimpey home do, and theirs take a lot longer to build
  14. 2 points
    Bedec Barn Paint for me. Coverage on bare wood is magic.
  15. 2 points
    As a business I do both options Both can easily be sealed It’s down to individual preference The main areas for air leakage are around windows and exterior doors The heads and reveals around these will need to be dot and dabbed But the rest can be wet plastered I chose to dot and dab ours As it gives a warmer feel Though I could have rendered it far half the price
  16. 2 points
    Yes you can. With a programme such as Adobe Illustrator you can import the PDF into illustrator and then export it as an AutoCAD .dwg file. Two types of PDF files exist. Vector based and raster based. Vector are lines and text that would be printed from AutoCAD. A scanned pdf or image is made up of pixels and can't be converted back. When converting PDF back to AutoCAD with illustrator you'll lose some of the autocad layers but that's fine as some companies strip this out anyway when sending you the original AutoCAD file. It will also be to a particular scale. eg 1:50 so after you convert it back to .dwg file format you'll have to scale it by 50. Some other annoying stuff happens like hatches are all converted to lines. If used to AutoCAD commands it's the same as everything in the drawing is exploded. This can make hatches difficult to modify. Text is also converted and not editable. It's all still fine though as you strip out the hatches and text and have all the lines of the house or building perfectly which is what you want.
  17. 2 points
    The building game will stay the same. building large amounts of poorly build homes to maximise profit shareholders and all that.
  18. 2 points
    Welcome. Start researching different construction types, brick, block, timber frame, SIP, ICF, rammed earth even. Then decide what you can do yourself. Then decide what you can do without. Sack architect, they will spend all your contingency, and more. You don't need much more than a sketch to get planning.
  19. 2 points
    We had a similar problem under our windows, so rather than creating a lower ledge with ballustrade across we built up the plasterboard to create a higher display shelf/recess for my kids artwork. Works ok for us.
  20. 1 point
    I do do like your wisdom from the life you have lead.
  21. 1 point
    Today I learnt to lay a slab. it's my first one and not a very important slab as it's just to house the GRP electricity kiosk from CCF Fibreglass and a couple of wheelie bins. it was about 0.2m3 and I mixed approximately 1 part cement to 6 parts sand/ballast pre-mix with some water by hand in a wheelbarrow and then tamped it down to get a rough but level-ish finish. There are 3 x 150mm ducts in the slab for the electricity supply in, out to the house and out to the STP which is nearby so these got in the way of getting a nice tampered finish but, all things considered, I'm very happy with what I've achieved today and think I did an alright job for something that I really didn't care how good it looks. I'll have another one to do to house the ASHP further down the line which I'm sure will be better. what did anyone else learn to do today?
  22. 1 point
    Switch off ventilation system. Hang dust sheets over windows, don’t let the sun in , if it works use external shutters, Does design have large areas of south or west facing glass? Did you get a building physics model?
  23. 1 point
    My house gets fairly warm/hot , it’s well insulated, airtight, triple glazed, painted black and has an anthracite zinc roof!. Lots of glazing. I knew it was going to get hot in the summer - having lived 20 years in the south of France I find the house at 24 quite comfortable. However I did install AC unit above the en-suite and it’s piped into the master and office both of which are south facing . All the gain is pretty much solar I think. My MVHR has night cooling but I don’t think it makes much of a difference as it’s the surfaces which heat up during the day that radiates heat later on. I’ve not used the AC yet as it not hot enough to bother me, having the windows open is just right at the moment. If the gains get too much I wont install solar films on the south facing windows as I get loads of free heat from them in the winter on a bright day. My most likely route would be a brise soleil slates made of wood over the south windows that I would only have up for summer (single story). I have 2x6 joist behind the cladding above all windows to attach something if I want I the future. this sort of thing However I suspect I’ll only go down this route if global warming continues at it’s current rate and the weather gets more extreme (which it probably will). (I have a 6k solar array going in to power the AC by the way…!)
  24. 1 point
    I placed additional 200x50mm timbers across the joists around the area to be floored to create a "box". I also tied these in to the existing angle rafters that connected to the purlins. This helped spread the loads around a bit. If you are placing anything very heavy up there, try to have it at the edge or corner of the room, or above a supporting wall, rather in the middle of the timber spans. This is why cold water tanks are nearly always placed in the corner eves or on top of a supporting wall.
  25. 1 point
    Yes, just put a few cable clips to hold it in place. twin and earth doesn’t need to be run in conduit , it can be clipped direct to the building fabric
  26. 1 point
    Best check what the DNO for your area say regarding the meter, meterbox, hockey stick duct etc.
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    They dont look like fixing heads to me, more like pieces of grit or similar
  29. 1 point
    As above. or have the isolator internal with appropriate signage, advising of this
  30. 1 point
    Will I be known as Tea
  31. 1 point
    A cill pushed water away from the wall and allows it to fall. Flush fit windows are simple to seal but the staining down the wall can be horrendous.
  32. 1 point
    Static load as opposed to 1/2 mass X Velocity squared. Lots of proper marine stuff is galvanised, not sure what it is like if in sea for decades.
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    Off topic but not true - we have 3 semis in our village and a city flat. They all turn a decent profit and they are all well maintained with all the relevant certificates, gas, electric etc. It's still a great way to invest for the future/pension. The recent rise in values is also nice 😄 Simon
  35. 1 point
    So i can get an EPC that basically says whatever i want. The Airtest guy basically said the same "Tell me what you want, and i'll make sure the coputer spits that out" Frankly it's hard to find a reason to do anything better.
  36. 1 point
    Replace the pneumatic pipe and try again. I had this before and it was a series of micro-fractures in the pipe allowing air to escape when the flush button ( basically a set of bellows ) was pushed. Swap the pipe off one of the working ones to see if the problem migrates to the other WC.
  37. 1 point
    No specific size for a drip groove, just needs to form drips
  38. 1 point
    Have you considered appealing on the grounds of non determination of the application?
  39. 1 point
    Happy days. This makes things much simpler. One cut per row and on to the next.
  40. 1 point
    That mesh is heavy duty. Space your mars bars and deck chairs at about 1200 and you will be OK. I hope you have a machine to lift the mesh in.
  41. 1 point
    No, best thing to do is nothing! Is it leaking? you should specify what you want if it was mine I would want lead to LDA standard, should last 80 to 100 years it is possible to piece in a new bit of leas with overlaps. stick on solutions will only be a temporary fix. I could letterbox in a small tongue of lead that would last 15 to 20 yrs but that would be a ‘bodge job’ I can’t really see your crack but I hav seen it all before, lead should be laid in sections 1.5m possibly 1.8m long with overlaps
  42. 1 point
    We've got one with just a direct air supply to the stove. Also have mvhr. Mvhr commissioned to ensure a bit of positive pressurisation (essentially supply fan speed higher than extract). No obvious smoke leakage when the stove door opens. Thinking about this a bit more, I was wondering to what extent this is a problem just for mvhr, or if it's just related to ventilation generally? As others have said, no house is 100% airtight, the mvhr replaces ventilation from trickle vents and leaks. I've been in older houses with no mvhr and in certain weather conditions the leakage from the stove is really obvious when you open the door, presumably to do with internal/external pressure difference. It's not exclusive to mvhr so the idea the stove needs to be mvhr compatible is a bit questionable. A high rated stove such as dibt might be required for passivehaus certification, but only to meet airtightness criteria.
  43. 1 point
    Hi MBC probably used the same membranes as for my build, which was a couple of months ahead of @bitpipe. They used some AMPATEC DB90 but mostly SIGA-Majpell -5 to wrap the joist ends and between floors and, for mine, they used SIGA-Majpell -5 for the walls and roof. ( the airtight board was introduced after my build) - see photos.
  44. 1 point
    This would be my first line of investigation mdpe pipe is not expensive - how far away - a small digger will dig an awful lot of trench in one day. I treat my own spring water with particle filters at 10 micron and then 5 micron and then UV it’s a very cheep instal as my water quality is so good already it’s more belt and braces as I rent out accommodation and it’s a requirement from council. There are grants of about £800 per household from council.
  45. 1 point
    Sounds a fantastic location, welcome. It also sounds like you are very rural, and while there are other permissions granted around you they must be pretty spread out so you are not within a built area and are firmly in open countryside. If the post and rail is truly agricultural/equestrian type, then they can't really argue, if you weren't changing the use of the patch of land the access crosses from agricultural/equestrian to residential, they could do nothing about it, however they've included this as it adds to the picture they are painting of what they are calling a "grandiose" scheme. If you are in open countryside, then it is fair for them to be minimising the impact of your development, and if the most visible part of that development is the entrance (due to house being 200m away from the public road and mature hedge rows etc.) it is quite reasonable for them to want that to be "in keeping" with its surroundings. Our LPA would only allow a 5 bar gate. Nothing solid, nothing over 1.2m, no fancy gate posts. 12m inset in the field also seems a little excessive, yes you need provision for a car/van to pull off the road before they are stopped by your gate, but they may be happier with 6m. I can also see their issue with it being through the middle of the field, but maybe if you reduced the visual impact they'd compromise on this. Again, if it was a field entrance, on to an uncategorised road, you wouldn't need planning permission, so they couldn't actually stop a 5 bar gate being in the middle of the hedge row, however as you want it for residential use you need to reach a compromise with them.
  46. 1 point
    They will soon make a mess, they put more on the floor than anywhere else.
  47. 1 point
    Take everything that is the same, out of the equation. ie. from the price of the ASHP & controls + the extra cost of a 25% larger HWC + say a 90l buffer (just in case you need it) + twin pipe insulated duct of required length, take away the price of the Gas boiler & controls. The install may be a small amount more due to the MCS requirement for RHI, and a bit more copper pipe and brass fittings for the buffer.
  48. 1 point
    If you can't get the answers here, I'd recommend emailing Grohe. They have been brilliant in answering me within a few days. I actually got my Grohe frame delivered today
  49. 1 point
    Just by way of an update, we are up to splash on all 3 and the gas membrane is now completed throughout (final plot completed yesterday after I took the photo). UFH on Monday and concrete screed Thursday. Need to spread out the A142 mesh for the garages prior to Thursday and then a day back before Christmas to get the foot scaffold in and that wraps me up until 2021 - happy days!
  50. 1 point
    I found this video on You Tube and it implies that you just vacuum the filters in the one I have (if you can reach it of course ). Even if it needs replacing it looks like I could just cut the foam to fit?
This leaderboard is set to London/GMT+01:00
  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up