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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/01/21 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    The most affordable option is to stick build with a local joiner or use a local building firm. If you are in Scotland easier to do. I saved loads that way and the cashflow was to my advantage. If you want speed and less hassle than a Scotframe kit could work well for you, but that comes at a cost. On a personal note I was not impressed by Scotframe they didn't even come back to me when I was in touch.
  2. 3 points
    my carpenter/joiner/builder made the gutter out of marine ply then the roofers made a zinc liner for it on site. At 14meters long it actually goes in 2 directions each end of the house with hidden pipes in the walls.
  3. 2 points
    As a very good alternative, I would throw fleming homes into the mix. I would have used them for ours but they don't do SIPS. However jad I been timber frame I would have chosen then. They erect also so no VAT outlay. If you look for @Redoctobers blog he had a house built by them. If you're going to extensively modify a standard design you are as well doing your own design. Fleming also have annin house design service.
  4. 2 points
    This is not a paid for professional service where you might properly expect measured responses from all contributors. Nobody can know exactly what's meant by written text. So much gets - as you say - lost intranslation. Thats normal. This board is a teaching and learning resource. It does not offer a Members' Needs Analysis such as those offered by other online teaching formal, paid for teaching institutions . So respondents to your posts cannot know what you dont know. But, out of kindness, they respond anyway. Thats why it is very suprising indeed that you react with visible frustration at the perceived quality of responses. One technique which is very powerful in online teaching and learning is to ask the person posting to summarise what he or she thinks she has learned. As a simple post - just bullet points. That does three things, It reassures readers that you have made an effort to understand them It allows time for you to internalise some of the teaching Its helps set the agenda for further development. Try it. Please.
  5. 2 points
    hopefully as you bought a means of measuring temperature you can provide the data to help us help you. instead of not answering the questions that people have been posting for 20 odd pages, why dont you post the info on the radiator dimensions, types of radiator, room size, glazing size, type of construction etc, make model of ASHP etc etc.
  6. 2 points
    From an architect's point of view that initial 'feasibility' or 'outline design' stage can be the most difficult to price because the amount of work involved can be very variable. It might be that you pretty much know what you want, and it's just a matter of drawing up some basic plans to check it all works in principle, and it does, and the job is pretty much done. On the other hand, you might think you know what you want, but would also like to have some other options suggested to you. Or, what you think you want turns out not to work. And you might be very decisive or you might be quite indecisive and the process ends up going through quite a lot of options and sub-options, or you change your mind about something once one design has already been pursued in a fair bit of detail. Then there might be unexpected complications that make the project more difficult than it appears at the outset, or various unknowns that arise. Some of these kinds of things mean that it turns out you can't actually complete the 'feasibility' stage without doing some things that might normally come at a later stage. For example, perhaps you need to get a structural engineer involved to know whether something's going to work. Or, you might decide it makes sense to make a planning application or initial enquiry, before going down too far down the line with something that turns out to be a no-no from a planning point of view. And then there's quite a variation in what can be presented as far as drawings are concerned. Some basic floorplan layouts, or detailed 3d visualisations? There's a judgement about what's necessary to help someone make a well informed decision, and what's overkill. I guess my advice would be to pay most attention to the quotes which are accompanied with a bit of detail about what they actually propose to do for that "feasibility" stage. Where they simply state "feasibility" and then a price, then you don't really know what they are assuming or what you're getting. And it will give you a clue about whether their expectations broadly match with yours. Have they given an estimate, say, of how many face-to-face meetings they expect to have with you? If an architect has come to see you, and look at the property, or at least had a bit of a chat with you on the phone, then that's probably a good sign that they've put some thought into what's actually likely to be involved - including getting an idea of what sort of client you might be, and what you actually want.
  7. 1 point
    FFS words fail me mate, your winding us up that must be a drawer from a different unit. 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
  8. 1 point
    The best 'cure' for national debt is to grow the economy as then it becomes smaller as a % of GDP. However that requires increases in productivity which requires investment in people and plant. Some of that is investment by business itself (internal and external) however the government needs to ensure that education is fit for purpose and that the national infrastructure is up to scratch. Trade and non trade barriers should also be eliminated where possible. Brexit is expected to drag GDP by a number of % points over the next few years so that will be a challenge on top of the short term Covid shock.
  9. 1 point
    I've had time to think about your post Dave. We deliberately designed the switching so that anyone entering the house (legitimately) could switch on lights all over the house. We did that for security reasons. I don't want to go into it in any detail, but it doesn't take too much imagination to figure out why a house owner would want to be able to do that. I'd like to make the switches serve us, not the other way around - so adapting this idea My mate has a 3D printer. There ain't nowt he can't wire up - he's made his own flight simulator in his massive shed We'll '... fab summat oop lad ...' as he says. I'm really gettin' in to this now. Who knows even @Onoff might have a thought or two about this.....
  10. 1 point
    I used to be a fan of Scotframe and I think the product itself is very good if you go for one of the Valu-therm products (there are a couple of small technical issues which are not very good details but overall it's pretty good) - however in the last while their pre-sales service has been far from acceptable, especially their engineer "service" which 1 year on we still have unresolved queries holding up the building warrant. If you do go down that route, I suggest using your own engineer to design and certify the whole structure and don't pay for that as part of the scotframe package. The other thing that seems to have gone downhill recently is the accuracy of their delivery times to site
  11. 1 point
    Love this idea, not sure how practical it is. Hygiene would worry me, you can't use any of the usual chemicals. Go to the vets to get a Leptospira vaccine against Weill's disease...?!
  12. 1 point
    You do like to make things hard for yourself.
  13. 1 point
    Dig a bucket size holes here the water collects, and drop the pump into the hole, the water will find its way to the hole!
  14. 1 point
    Same old same old. Improve your property, increase the value and cop even more tax.
  15. 1 point
    turned down but reapplying
  16. 1 point
    Seems yesterday the energy consumption of the ASHP went down. I'm now obsessed on this function! And this is the setting we have set on the water law now which I changed yesterday. I also did what @PeterW suggested and changed the 201* settings to 10 and -5. We have turned the room thermostats up to 20.5 degrees though as 19 was a bit chilly for us.
  17. 1 point
    You dig out the route of the road coming in and use the demolition waste to form the base of the road. As it's uneven materials a large digger will track forward and backward breaking them up to form a sort of level road. Then the delivery lorries with all their weight help to compact it even more so when the time comes to put the final layers of hardcore in you won't require as much so save money.
  18. 1 point
    Just pulled up the old certificate, on line, of our bore hole and the bore was 120 ft in all. 80 ft to Clay and 40 ft to chalk. It was a 4 inch bore. The rest level of water was 30 feet not 46 metres ha ha! The neighbours one must be virtually the same.
  19. 1 point
    cheers, that's not an issue, there is currently a house here, and i have permission to build another one next to it.
  20. 1 point
    I think I got it !!! Changed the heating curve to a -1 degree offset. Shut off the studio radiator off completely and restricted the guest bedroom and the landing radiators to as low as I could get it without the rads making the hissing noice. Set the heating temperature aim in the ASHP to 21 degrees. Voila! downstairs is 21 degrees, floors aren't stone cold anymore, upstairs is decently warm 21-22 degrees, office is slightly colder to 20 when unoccupied but as soon as I close the work and get to work it goes up to 22-23 which I can deal with by opening the window a tiny bit. I realise the temperature right now is not as cold as previous days but it feels as though the heating has stabilised somewhat and I'm not loosing heat by reducing the temperature aim to silly low levels. I've also looked at the degree minute graph and it looks much more stable in the last 2 days or so. Let's see how long it lasts!!
  21. 1 point
    20** are the Water Law settings. You could look here to see what curve they have programmed. 2021 is the max Water Out temp 2022 is the min Water Out temp 2011 is the outside temperature where the max temp is hit 2012 is the outside temperature where the min temp is hit I would guess that they have considerably raised the default temperatures. If you think about it, they don't want hassle after the system is installed. People will notice a lot faster that their house doesn't get hot than they are using more electricity than expected and so the tendency is probably to set flow temps too high. As ASHP owners have said, theoretically weather compensation would cut your bills. Ideally you are always using the lowest flow temp required to heat the house which maximises your COP, but this would need careful setting. However, you use a lot more energy when it is very cold than when it is say 7-10C, thus setting a fixed flow temp that works when it is cold is probably the easiest way to start. As @ProDave said you could then set this as the flow temp at the low end of the weather compensation curve and a lower temp at the high end of the curve but this would require a lot of experimentation. Edited - 2041 is UFH/Radiator setting not WaterLaw off or on Now that you are in installer mode you should be able to change the mode from Water Law to Heat as shown on P18. First I would be interested to know what the flow tempsthey have set in 2021 and 2022 are.
  22. 1 point
    Shutting off the bedroom heating has made a big difference. Last year when we ran the underfloor heating as recommended we found that the 9kw Sunamp ran out of puff very quickly leading to cold water rather to often. As noted on other Buildhub posts the mvhr is not that efficient in redistributing heat so we have an approx. 2 degree difference in the room temps. The cooler bedrooms suit us , the only downside is that the bathrooms which are part of the bedroom loops (bungalow) are a bit chilly and definitely need the towel rail boost. I recognise that our approach is a compromise and does make proper use of the underfloor heating but the costs of an ashp ,both capital and servicing , coupled with the disruption to the finished build are putting us off that route.
  23. 1 point
    Even in a Conservation Area, you should not require Planning for a gate in that position providing the height does not exceed 1m. Looking at the brick coursing, it only appears to be 900mm high. Are you sure this isn’t more related to demolition within a Conservation Area of which you would only require that form of consent if you have removed a previous gate that exceeded 1m? Or... unless there’s an Article 4 Direction in place?
  24. 1 point
    Looks ok to me We are next door to a listed building Heritage where fine with ours It may be a case of that you simply didn’t ask Can’t be the worst breach they have ever had I would submit retroactive They May ask that you simply darken the wood Ours are just a taller version of your gates
  25. 1 point
    @Dan F, sorry for my late reply. The trade-offs for efficient DHW are nuanced. We have a KISS approach of having a couple of SunAmp PVs (the older and IMO better engineered model) heated by E7. Quite honestly we just don't use enough DHW for any running cost savings to merit the extra complexity. If I had a young family and lots of hot baths per day, then we might have a different sweet spot. Getting an ASHP to heat up to 35°C can run at a CoP of approaching 4. Getting up to the high 40s can drop the CoP well below 3. You could consider a hybrid where you use a buffer tank heated to, say, 35°C and use this via a PHE to preheat the water passing through a SunAmp PV so that the E7 energy boost the DHW from 35°C to 48 or whatever you have as your DMW mix-down temp. The one big advantage of our system is that we don't have a services room. All of our services fit into a cupboard off the ground-floor toilet measuring roughly 0.7m × 1.4m and this houses our SunAmps, UFH manifolds, water softener, Potable manifolds, riser etc. -- and is used as general storage as well. There is very little that can go wrong.
  26. 1 point
    I must admit I've moved on myself a couple of times but have always returned as I'm interested in the subject, can always learn more from others and, more to the point, don't like to think of anyone being persistently cold as that's no fun at all. Very frustrating though.
  27. 1 point
    Yes . I found one lying around but it’s 1 1/2” ; need quarter inch . Ordered it will try that first 👍
  28. 1 point
    Can’t comment on the above apart from making sure you have a good noggin in the wall to fix the radiator to. my cast iron rads have 10mm rods going into brackets fixed to the walls. we used a few 4x2’s to get a decent fixing
  29. 1 point
    Can't you plumb the waste rigid with a longer telescopic U bend?
  30. 1 point
    I didn't even know they had prices on the shelves! You must have nice ones round your way. That said, nothing I want is ever out on a shelf anyway as if it was I could work out for myself if it was the right thing and then run the risk of sounding confident at the till - could probably game the system if I remembered to go in my scruffs at the crack of dawn. Ah, yes, the discount. Forgot about that. I think it goes something like: Discount (didn't ask for one: x1, asked for one: x2 then /2)
  31. 1 point
    As an aside, our build used a lot of electricity for the first few months and I put this down to “warming” the build up and drying out. Ours is set to 20/21’ now.
  32. 1 point
    I agree entirely, I always am grateful for the help. But its innevitable things 1. get lost in translation using a box of text to and fro, 2. occasional posts are missed/ im not prompted by like yours just now, id say 5% are. 3. If im trying to understand X for the 1st time, & its commonknowledge to most, frustration at me not getting it happens, & 4. if in actuality its balancing the room temps that is the aim, by in fact un-balancing the rads (from a state now currently balanced: balance ONLY EVER meaning equalibrium, A DEFINITION) in order to achieve this term "balance radiators" is then an utterly preposterously stupid term, and I should be cut some slack at being confused by it, not ridiculed & sniped at like many posts. Yes there's mostly patience, but alot of unwarranted impatience suddenly errupts too. Joe90, Jfb, Peter Stark should be commended for never getting angry, a calm manner I think realise Im new to most stuff, & are patient. Thanks . Zoot
  33. 1 point
    It works a bit, not as much as I dreamed that it would, I have one thermal store and one house basement floor cold through the winter til some point in Feb when the basement starts warming up again it does not overheat the house remains cool in summer only struggling if we get an heatwave that lasts more than three weeks - rare those are In Alberta they have one store for 52 homes and that supplies 80% + of their heat and hot water, it is +30 in the summer, -30 in winter dlsc.ca
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    Just bear in mind that anything off the heating system will only provide heat when the heating is on, as opposed to the traditional airing cupboard housing a dhw tank. A small electric tubular heater might not be a bad call, maybe switched by a humidity sensor so it only runs when you need it?
  36. 1 point
    Open fires have a net cooling effect as they draw out more heat energy (the warm air) than they radiate out (don't know about back boilers). They have no place in our world anymore. There's a house (about 150m²) that's just got fpp across the road from us and they have three open fires and a wood fired pizza oven in their house design... It'll either be freezing or unbearably warm 😅. Not sure how they'll pass their air tightness test. And your MVHR won't work properly at all, esp when it's windy or the fire is lit. So you'll be better off with trickle vents and bathroom extractors. And you'll also need a wall vent in the rooms where the fires are, so even draughtier. I think a room sealed stove is the obvious compromise.... You can always fire the door open for effect when the mood takes you. Sorry to be negative, but that's the reality.
  37. 1 point
    I didn’t, for ease I just ended up putting plasterboard up, the options for fire proofing became unclear and expensive, and I was short on time
  38. 1 point
    Agree it was a remarkable achievement by a determined and very sweet couple. I hope they have a long and happy life together. I still cannot see why they weren't allowed to demolish and rebuild, using as much of the original materials as possible. Would have made underpinning unnecessary, the build safer and the structure more stable. And saved them a big pot of money. The end result would have looked exactly the same. Some obstacles seem so counter-productive and just plain stupid.
  39. 1 point
    Seriously, a number of us are trying to help and at every turn you say we are wrong. Unless you’ve got a floor to ceiling rad in the bathroom then you don’t have rads that are maxed out. Trust me, I’ve fitted some huge rads in my time and you’ve seen nothing ..! Standard boiler run temp is 65-72°C These will be “standard” rads but when you size them you change the flow temps. I’ll give you an example. Using BS EN 442, the industry standard for radiator sizing, a delta 50°C is assumed for calculation. This delta is the difference between the average flow temperature and the desired room temperature. Most plumbers / Heating engineers therefore use a flow temp of 70°C and a target room temperature of 20°C. My “room” example is a 3.5 x 3.5m living room with a standard ceiling of 2.4m. I’ve said it has two 9” solid external walls, and no insulation under the floor. I’ve added a single 1sqm window that is double glazed. The heat requirement of this room is 1540 W based on delta 50°C. To heat this room, I would specify a 1100 x 450 double convector compact radiator. If I now change the delta to delta 35°C, then the room loss is still the same but the rad now needs to be an 1800 x 450 double convector compact radiator. Do you see the difference ..?? The radiator for the lower flow temperature is 63% larger to accommodate the same heat requirement. I can - from your numbers and description - see that your bathroom should have something like an Opus 600 towel rail, which is 600 x 2000..!! If you’ve got anything smaller, it is undersized. It’s not the room, it’s the rads.
  40. 1 point
    You could have a totally separate laundry doing this but it gives you a long corridor and the laundry is only 1.25m wide. It would allow aside door if you wanted. I didn't perfectly scale the rooms but you get the idea.
  41. 1 point
    Have you spoken to an engineer about this ..?? You will be adding significant static load to the joists - potentially causing bending or cracking of the ceilings below if they are overloaded. Adding a 20-30mm pug mix will add up to 2 1/2 tonnes static load to the floor structure. You will also have to notch the joists to accommodate the pipes and this will further weaken the structure. Has all this been considered ..??
  42. 1 point
    We're still waiting.....
  43. 1 point
    I agree. We paid £150k for our 0.25 acre plot without pp in the Cotswolds, in a conservation area, in 2018. We had looked at similar plots with pp for sale at up to £400k (nuts, by the way). It was valued by a surveyor for finance purposes 2 months ago at £260k. The surveyor looks at the end market value of the proposed build and works back from there, ending up with the valuation. For us, its fine as we intend to live in the property and not sell it on. The shortage of plots tends to push up prices, however when buyers look at the total costs of the build (compared with what they could buy a completed build for) they may well end up pulling out of the deal. I think realistic valuations work in our favour, keeping agreed prices down, so do keep trying!
  44. 1 point
    That is about 200W. Hard to tell remotely. Circulation pump maybe. Just that it sounds similar to my cylinder when it is heating up.
  45. 1 point
    It is most likely that the washing machine is only connected to the cold water, so it should not deplete your hot water tank.
  46. 1 point
    Alot of us have used Ubiflex and it looks really smart. Put this is the search engine on here
  47. 1 point
    Does this 50mm air gap have eaves ventilators? If so, is there a continuous gap to provide flow across the whole roof? From the photo, I'm suspect the ridge beam prevents this? In that case you do need to add ventilators. In the photo it looks like the steel beam is inside the insulated envelope? I wonder whether your only other option would have been to look at using woodfibre insulation but that would have requires a re-design of the roof buildup (as this system typically uses an external insulation sarking board). However, I don't know how this stuff works with bats. I think your easiest option is to ensure that the 50mm ventilation gap between your pir and the F1 membrane has sufficient cross-flow and then focus on breathability around the rest of the house.
  48. 1 point
    The boss likes ToughButterCups suggestion re the candles. She ALSO wants lights behind the bath. So, back to my original question, can anyone advise on my original post regarding the decking lights?
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point
    Speaking on design. (Deliberately not talking about aspects of the plans, rather thinking around the box.) I think that one risk of your narrowish (and not *that* deep) plot is that the house will look (and feel) like a big shoebox for storing people in. Having said that 10.5m width (or 8m for the house, or 7m for inside the house) is more than most people have, but is not generous. Oversized-shoebox is a classic shape for a pushed-slightly-too-far selfbuild. The house is half of the length of the plot. The front is 10m deep, so you risk the backgarden feeling very short. The surroundings are ribbon development both sides of the road, detached houses of varying age and the rear facing North East. In Lancashire (Q: are you windswept?). One neighbour is close, the other is a drive width away on their plot. OTOH, you have open fields to the back. I think that is actually quite a challenging context, and there are a lot of limits on what you can do. The design needs to be creative in getting light into the middle of the structure, and making it feel like a house-nearly-in-the-country rather than something that could be in a former factory in inner-fringe London where it all has to look inwards. So IMO crucial aspects to do carefully are: 1 - Connections inside to outside - for light, views, and movement. 2 - Face to the street. 3 - Using the countryside outside your garden at the back as part of the garden. How you view the countryside from the inside. That all on top of the basic functional requirements. What would I be thinking? Different from the neighbours not fit-in, maybe non conventional roof shape - possibly with routes to get light in, big roof terrace at back (might even consider a roof-garden over the whole thing or smaller footprint and basement), look for my own aesthetic not try to be polite, try and make the ends articulated not flat - to minimise garage at front and make garden longer at the back by entering through set-back part. Small court / light well half way down one side. Articulate the front so sunlight reaches farther back? Inspiration? Whilst thinking about this I thought of the roof terrace of the Grand Designs "Ice Cube" house in Brixton, and the roof shape of the Wiltshire Grand Design barn conversion near Marlborough. Just thinking aloud Ferdinand
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