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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/06/21 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    As an update, had the air test done today and it turned out alright. I wasn't sure what to expect, tbh I don't even care anymore, I'm bored with living in a caravan now and just want to be in the damn thing🤷‍♂️ must be 2.5 yrs in this van now! Anyway, got 0.2ach which confirms my suspicion that the horrendous condensation we had at Xmas was due to lack of ventilation. Thankfully the MVHR is jacked up now so no further issues. Living in a 30ft x 10ft caravan with two cats, a 9 and 11 yr old whilst staring at our 280m2 house for the last year has had its day now. Roll on move in day. The joys of self building. Champagne taste with lemonade budget = a long time living in a box😎
  2. 3 points
    You need to buy an expandable foam gun and gun grade expandable foam. make sure that all the insulation is flush with the face of the wood, check with a long straight edge over a few at a time as it will make a BIG difference to how well the 25mm stuff goes on.. are you having a service void ? Either way I would be filling ALL gaps with foam, cut it back and silver foil tape over all joints before starting the over boarding. if you use 100mm tape it should bridge right the timber - it will stick to timber but better to foil faced boards. there are numerous threads on how to do this… you should read them before starting the detailing.
  3. 2 points
    Hi Loz. Can you confirm the opening size and also take a picture looking up at the underside of the lintel?
  4. 2 points
    "A semi-detached show-home on the outskirts of Gateshead may seem an unlikely location for a technology revolution. But when this outwardly unremarkable looking building opens its doors in the coming weeks, it will mark a key moment in the UK’s accelerating transition to a zero-carbon economy. When the programme began, it was as much about ruling out hydrogen as an option as anything else, but as the project team worked its way through key questions on everything from the feasibility of hydrogen appliances to public acceptance, the case for putting the gas at the heart of the UK’s energy transition grew stronger. “As the programme’s progressed we’ve discovered everything is feasible and found a way over various hurdles.” “Everyone’s beginning to realise this really could be a very real possibility.” One of the keys to this has been the input from some of the biggest names in domestic heating, including the UK’s market leading boiler manufacturer Worcester Bosch, which has developed a prototype hydrogen-ready boiler that’s about to be put through its paces in a series of major trials. Worcester Bosch CEO Carl Arntzen told The Engineer that when the company began seriously looking into hydrogen around five years ago, it set out to answer two key questions: can it be safely burned in a domestic boiler, and is it possible to make a hydrogen boiler that’s the same size as an existing system? Artntzen’s team began by looking at what the differences between hydrogen and natural gas might mean in terms of engineering fundamentals. An early win was the realisation that hydrogen and natural gas have a broadly similar Wobbe index. This is a measure of the amount of heat energy within a given volume of gas. Artnzen explained that whilst hydrogen has a lower calorific value than natural gas, its density is much greater, meaning the same volumes of hydrogen and natural gas will give roughly the same heat energy. This provided early confidence that not only could a hydrogen boiler be physically the same size (and therefore wouldn’t require future customers to reconfigure their homes) but that it would also be compatible with the existing gas network. “The size of the existing gas network is roughly OK and supplies the same amount of energy whether you supply 100 percent natural gas or 100 per cent hydrogen,” he said. Nevertheless, the properties of hydrogen did present a number of engineering challenges. For instance, it has a much faster flame speed when compared to natural gas which, said Arntzen, created some initial challenges around how to control the combustion process. The team also encountered some early problems with “flashback”, a result of both the flame speed and shorter flame height of hydrogen. “The ignition was lighting the fuel upstream of the burner so we were getting a backfire,” he explained. “It was perfectly safe but of course your boiler going bang every few minutes is not really desirable!” Both of these findings prompted a redesign of the burner face to more effectively manage the flow of the gas within the appliance. Another key challenge was around monitoring and controlling the flame. Whilst existing domestic boilers sense the presence of a flame by detecting the electric current generated by carbon molecules within the gas, the absence of carbon molecules in hydrogen meant they had to look at different solutions for flame detection. At this point, said Arntzen, it became clear that it wouldn’t be possible to simply convert existing gas boilers to run on hydrogen, and the concept of a hydrogen-ready boiler was born, a system that would initially run on natural gas but which could be switched over to hydrogen with a minimum of fuss. “It goes into your house and burns natural gas, then, four or five years after you have it installed when you get notified that your area is going to be converted to hydrogen we come back in, quickly change a few components, and that boiler’s ready to burn hydrogen.” The Full Article can be read here:- https://www.theengineer.co.uk/low-carbon-engineering-hydrogen-home/ (The posted readers comments after the 'Engineer magazine' article are not quite so positive....)
  5. 2 points
  6. 2 points
    The metal will only be the corner beads. Cut that away with a fine tooth hacksaw, then chisel into the plaster with an old small chisel to allow the glass in. then make good with filler.
  7. 2 points
    If there’s a 10mm gap, go concrete solid and fit a 10mm blade of steel plate to create a Flitch beam and put your worries to bed. You could park a car on that.
  8. 2 points
    Cheers guys for all the pointers! Up to DPC now and they are looking good. Mortar still wet in the pictures. Past DPC we are going to use a light grey mortar with V or raked out joint to show off the rough edges of the brick.
  9. 1 point
    This is exactly what I have found, 150mm x 22mm sarking boards with a 3-5mm gap are very permeable and the roof performs really well, but as soon as you use sheet board it’s impermeable and need fairly serious ventilation below to stop moisture build up - this then leads to mould….. don’t ask how I know 😥 I would personally always use 150mm x 22mm sarking board on any future roofs I build but I also put a 50mm ventilation gap below them as well !
  10. 1 point
    Difference between a warm and cold roof construction (not to be confused with a warm/cold loft).... * Cold roof - the insulation is between and under the rafters. This means there are structural elements on the cold side of the insulation (eg the top of the rafters). * Warm roof - the insulation is above the rafters. This means the structural elements are on the warm side of the insulation. The vast majority of houses built now and in the past are of the cold roof type. The risk with a cold roof is that water vapour created by people in the house can escape through the insulation and condense on the cold part of the rafters or other structural elements. There are two main ways of preventing this, both are aided by a vapour barrier on the warm side of the insulation.. * Vapour permeable: If sarking boards and the roof membrane are vapour permeable then you only need to ventilate the void between the tiles and the roof membrane. * Vapour impermeable: if any sarking boards or roof membrane are not vapour permeable then you need a 50mm ventilated void below the impermeable layer. So the question you need to answer is : Are your sarking boards and roof membrane sufficiently vapour permeable that you can avoid needing a 50mm ventilated void below? My understanding is that narrow sarking boards with 3-5m gaps are considered permeable but large sheets of OSB with no gaps might not be. Discuss with your BCO or Architect.
  11. 1 point
    The best (and probably most expensive) is Intello. Second best and cheaper but not as tough is Proteck Barriar
  12. 1 point
    He said they were talking shite as the kit is all the same!
  13. 1 point
    20kgs is very light as rads go, i have one in my kitchen that weights around 80kgs full and it is hanging on 4no 10 screws. plate gauge really doesnt matter as you are nowhere near the capacity of steel in shear.
  14. 1 point
    I live next door to the site and can actively monitor what they are doing (also a time lapse camera is set up). Things have got better and and hopefully for the next bits of ground works will progress as expected (last weeks invoice reflected the reduced work on site). I have my guard up though on the work they are doing. Yesterday me and three of the ground workers got the two layers of retaining wall / slab mesh installed, me being on site getting my hands dirty seemed to progress getting the work done, also i was there to make sure it went in properly. I am going to tie in the starter bars over the weekend, and BCO / architect inspection scheduled for Tuesday morning. Hopeful for the slab pour on Tuesday afternoon / weds, and brickie's on site for the retaining wall on Monday (different firm). There is also the availability of slave labour if things get really tough (my little helper setting out mars bars, i should have paid her a proper one for her efforts)
  15. 1 point
    Simple timer - runs 6am to 11pm, runs 1min/hour assuming it’s an insulated ring. You can use something like a 1CJDT0 with an asymmetric on/off driven by a really simple DIN timeswitch providing the supply to allow you not to run it 24/7 if you are really that bothered about not having hot water pumps running overnight
  16. 1 point
    This is 60/72 but you get the idea…
  17. 1 point
    I wouldn't accept that. Btw you're brick work is stunning. Almost looks too good...
  18. 1 point
    Everyone to their skill set I say. He even found a VAT problem that my builder had missed as well as me and as I said his fee was more than paid fir IMO. I am crap at paperwork but good at woodwork, I also paid a plasterer because I am crap at that as well!
  19. 1 point
    +1 for trying to get difficult neighbours on board. I've lost count how many times we applied and how many times the same neighbour unreasonably refused. On the last application, we wrote a polite letter to the neighbour pointing out that despite their last objection the last application was actually granted, and what we were now applying to do was to vary it in such a way that our extension would be some 50cm further away from their property. Only when they realised that, did they stop objecting and we got our plans (which we actually wanted, as opposed to the weird concession the council had forced us into) approved. It was very frustrating though as I was aware of the importance of getting neighbours on board from the outset, and therefore printed all of our drawings in A3 for them and took them over to explain what we were applying for before we actually applied. I invited the neighbours to raise any queries or concerns with me directly before we filed. One neighbour was very reasonable and told me that they would be neutral on our application, whereas the other one refused to engage with me at all and instead wrote vehement objections after our application was filed.
  20. 1 point
    It's not in yet but I think it's going to be a unit with a PRV and stopcock in a box down the bottom of the garden.
  21. 1 point
    In Andrew Marr's History of Modern Britain he describes the Town & Country Planning Act of 1947 as one of the most significant pieces of UK legislation, it is the reason we live in a green and pleasant land not blighted by ribbon development along roads as seen in the US. I now think that green and pleasant lives should trump a green and pleasant land. LA's do what Central Government and Acts of Parliament dictate. If there was a political will to flood the market with building plots valued at 10% of build cost it would happen though I don't think people would appreciate the resulting 30% fall house prices.
  22. 1 point
    Yes! makes for a very quick install on job-and-knock or price/metres jobs.
  23. 1 point
    I backed onto a woodland in my old place. Literally massive trees just at back of me. Big London plane like 7m from house. They have big leaves and I never had a problem with grids. It's always dry enough one day for them to blow off.
  24. 1 point
    Unfortunately, there's no obligation on the authority to tell you about any of the comments received on an application, so if the objection is incorrect then an appeal might be worthwhile They must have had enough information to base a decision on, but maybe this could add weight to an appeal if there's been no site visit. Not sure that a conservation officers comments are necessary on a small scale development so might have worked in your favour to not have their comments if you do appeal "out of character" is the planners get out clause for issuing a refusal, it's such a wide concept that it's impossible to disprove If the previous works were bad, the planners can prevent similar extensions because of that, but a good planning consultant can usually argue that one out! However, the existing house being to small is not an argument I'd be surprised if there's no alternative design - I can do hundreds of iterations of an elevation from the same floor plan, there's always alternatives If they've raised valid planning policy objections, it doesn't matter where they live or who they are, it's the magic of the "democratic" planning system! If you have no alterative design, just go straight for appeal it's the only route you have
  25. 1 point
    Does not always need to be a bungalow. We bought a tired 1950's 3 bed detached on a large plot (1/2 acre). Replaced with a house that was larger (inc full basement) and to a passive standard. Advantage of demolishing and rebuilding are that all services are already in place - electricity and water can be particularly expensive to run to a green field plot - as is access and boundaries with existing properties. Unless you're in ANOB or conservation area, then you should have a pretty free hand with design. Also, barring asbestos etc, demolishing is normally £5-10k and some materials can be reused on site for hard standing etc.
  26. 1 point
    I do do like your wisdom from the life you have lead.
  27. 1 point
    All of these had planning conditions on mine, so go easy, and check out everything you do is allowed (never mind the VAT) in case you have a nosey neighbour who dobs you in to planning enforcement.
  28. 1 point
    Found them if anyone else wants them- https://www.wehandleitall.co.uk/excel-architectural-hardware-precision-am60-magnetic-tubular-latch---60mm---satin-stainless-steel-4226-p.asp Precision AM60 magnetic tubular latch
  29. 1 point
    Always 3. Cheaper doors will bow in the middle and bind on the door stop without.
  30. 1 point
    Strange, they're usually not mandated until foundations are 1.5m deep. Heave can cause issues as the ground reuptakes moisture.Ideally you'd have a good idea f the full soil strata and site history. But as that would mean a huge expense, only a very blunt 'worst case' tool is available. Because I'm an SE my BCO just left me to it on the structural things. He pointed towards a nearby tree but due to the local geography I assured him it wouldn't cause issues.
  31. 1 point
    The one above is ideal, the other thing you need to consider is stability - does it turn a corner at the ends? will it be subject to high wind loads? likelihood of crowds or groups of people leaning on it? 20m and 2m high is a big surface to catch wind and will need something to stop it falling over as one big slab
  32. 1 point
    Don't block any vents, don't stuff insulation right in to the eaves. No further than the edge of the wall. Keep all insulation in the floor. Keep the loft sealed from the rest of the house - e.g. minimise gaps around the ceiling light fittings, fit a sealed loft hatch.
  33. 1 point
    They will be "Main Stream" from 2025 - read up about the Future Homes Standard Not true, just like a gas boiler the heating system needs to be correctly sized for its use Where is your reference that says a 7 year life is typical. They're not £10K now and will only go down once the RHI/MCS scheme is removed. I think you are burying your head in the sand.
  34. 1 point
    Switch off ventilation system. Hang dust sheets over windows, don’t let the sun in , if it works use external shutters, Does design have large areas of south or west facing glass? Did you get a building physics model?
  35. 1 point
    If it was me I would get a trial hole dug and a structural engineer to review the clay and provide a foundation solution. Oaks are very thirsty trees. How high are they? A photo might be useful.
  36. 1 point
    I'm using DS18B20 temperature probes with WIFI relay switches (https://shellystore.co.uk/product/shelly-1) to control extractor fans and central heating. What's nice about this is that it's plug and play - no soldering required. Each wifi switch can run up to 3 probes, but you have to combine with with an addon to link the probes to the switch. (https://shellystore.co.uk/product/shelly-temp-addon). The wifi switches broadcast their temperature data using MQTT - you could easily set up an MQTT server on your old laptop and capture the temperature data. The cost of a switch and an addon works at £20ish per 3 probes (plus the cost of the probes). A cheaper option is to use a teeny tiny ESP8266 wifi chip. Connect it to power via micro usb, wire in the sensors and you're good to go. Check out https://esphome.io/components/sensor/dallas.html. I haven't tried this approach though.
  37. 1 point
    I placed additional 200x50mm timbers across the joists around the area to be floored to create a "box". I also tied these in to the existing angle rafters that connected to the purlins. This helped spread the loads around a bit. If you are placing anything very heavy up there, try to have it at the edge or corner of the room, or above a supporting wall, rather in the middle of the timber spans. This is why cold water tanks are nearly always placed in the corner eves or on top of a supporting wall.
  38. 1 point
    It’s really about putting stress on ceiling joists which are not meant to be used as floor joists , if you use legs, the point loads may be a bit high for the ceilings joists whereas additional timbers will spread the load a bit. Also depends what you put up there (load).
  39. 1 point
    We had a similar problem under our windows, so rather than creating a lower ledge with ballustrade across we built up the plasterboard to create a higher display shelf/recess for my kids artwork. Works ok for us.
  40. 1 point
    If you can't get the answers here, I'd recommend emailing Grohe. They have been brilliant in answering me within a few days. I actually got my Grohe frame delivered today
  41. 1 point
    our architect has mentioned that maybe we could think about entering in to awards once the build is finished. I assume from that that he's very happy with the design he came up with (as are we). fingers crossed the planning department like it and we can get it built. then we can think about awards but it's something we hadn't even considered until the architect mentioned it.
  42. 1 point
    Well no _____ the cost of the project was over one million I was the main contractor. When your using helicopters to bring all your materials in one million + is a tight budget.
  43. 1 point
    Not quite but i won a UNESCO - Award of Distinction - built heritage projects over 1million dollars - but it was for a stone walking track I built ! Did take me six years...... but gave me the money to buy my site !
  44. 0 points
    Couldnt agree more, ive been involved with some major building projects where the waste angered me ... Truck loads of bricks being unloaded from the trucks straight into skips because of a design change or over ordering. and now involved with Railways where many projects are cost plus (to save money) but the contractors throw loads of unnecessary plant, materials and equipment plus labour on site because they will get paid for it plus a mark up.
  45. 0 points
    They are noisy buggers when you are trying to sleep . A common problem
  46. 0 points
  47. 0 points
    Good morning and welcome, The `support` for self build is a lot of hype and very little to none existent actual help. Im in yorkshire and i keep badgering local councils regarding self build plots just to be told to look at estate agents and property websites.
  48. 0 points
    Been waiting 14 pages for this and the pipe has sunk like the Titanic. Jesus what a let-down! Let us just say that @pocster may be left wanting.
  49. 0 points
    Ah well... Norfolk tends to lag behind a few decades...
  50. 0 points
    You are legally obliged to comply with and assist HSE and fully answer any questions they have. If they pay you a visit just be as helpful as possible and immediately implement any recommendations. If they choose to prosecute they have a very high conviction rate, and the majority will plead guilty to the breach (when they realise that the penalty will be more severe if found guilty in court).
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