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  1. 2 points
  2. 2 points
    20% hydrogen can be run into standard boilers without any changes. Green hydrogen at 20% blended gives about a 7% reduction in CO2 due to the lower calorific value of Hydrogen. The Gas industry is lobbying the government hard to get Hydrogen as an option for heating homes, without it the gas network asset they own has no value. Blended grey Hydrogen is being pushed as a stepping stone to, blended blue hydrogen (made from gas but with CCUS), and on to 100% green hydrogen (produced from electrolysis using renewables). The lobbyists are pushing hard for a door to be left open for Hydrogen "ready" boilers. A recent unofficial press briefing is suggesting they've got their way. My view is this is a disaster for Net Zero by 2050 if they have. Blue hydrogen is being mis-sold and over-promised by the gas industry. The process releases more climate change gasses than burning natural gas directly, when you include the fugitive methane released. Heating your home with green Hydrogen would require 6 times more renewable energy than heating it with a HP. We will struggle to build the amount of renewables required to achieve Net Zero by 2050, without needing 6 times more of them for the heat in buildings part of the equation. (Unless the Unobtainium catalyst is discovered mentioned by @SteamyTea) Green Hydrogen is definitely needed, to replace the 70,000,000 tonnes of grey hydrogen current produced plus de-carbonising the industries that are hard to electrify. Unless there is a breakthrough in green hydrogen research that significantly reduces that amount of energy it takes to produce it, its going to struggle to replace the existing uses for hydrogen, let a lone find new uses. If a door is left open for hydrogen ready boilers, in the hope of a research breakthrough, there's going to be a very low take up of ASHPs in the existing housing stock, and ASHPs are the only current clean technology that can get close to the the day-to-day running costs of a gas boiler.
  3. 2 points
    Went and bought a small bar to pry the nails out, it was easier than I expected. Instead of cutting down the existing wood I found a few spare bits and screwed them in, then decided to try and smash the hanger sufficently flat. It ain't pretty but it should work. Bearing in mind how much every tiny change from our joiners has cost, I'm very happy with myself
  4. 2 points
    I think if you have evidence that it took 5 months to receive notice of the listing which you clearly do have then you should be ok. It’s pitiful that they can’t work some of this out themselves however! I would take the opportunity to tell them that as you don’t yet have the completion certificate and there are still a few things to finish you intend to submit a supplementary claim at a later date a la the tribunal decision in the linked case below 🙂 Ellis and Bromley tribunal decision
  5. 2 points
    Regardless of the heating system, heat losses and maximum heat demand will be the same. You can't fool nature. The reason that the government is pushing heat pumps is that they are the only practical way to supply thermal energy to home in a low CO2 emissions manner. This is because we are cleaning up our electricity generation. This is expensive, hugely expensive, but in the last decade we have reduced that sector emissions 5 fold. There is an alternative to use resistance heating, like we did between the 1960's and the late 1980's. This would mean we would have to add a lot more generation capacity. This is possibly cheaper, in the short term, than retrofitting heating systems. But there is a land issue. The UK does not like having wind turbines and solar farms on its land. We have convinced ourselves that only the best farming land will be used for this, will kill every bird within a mile of a turbine and the glare from a solar farm will give every child cataracts. It is all bollocks of course, but perception is more important than fact. So it is basically down to us to upgrade our homes. If your roof is suitable for PV, add it. It is cheap to self install and could probably do 70% of your DHW needs (with some diverter trickery) Airtightness and insulation really need to be considered together. External wall insulation is usually the most cost effective and will (should) improve airtightness. It is like putting a windproof winter jacket on. There will always be areas that air can bypass this that may have to be address after the installation. This may well be hard to get at area i.e. between loft space and the rooms below. These can possibly be addressed when fitting PV as scaffolding will be on site. Ideally you would convert your roof void to a warm roof system, then mechanically ventilate your house. This is expensive. So go down a layer and make the interface between room ceilings and loft space airtight, then ventilate the rest of the house. Some internal insulation may be useful. The ground floor is a large area, that is usually connected to the ground, which is cold. Insulating the floor will help a lot. This is not always easy as door and ceiling heights are important, as is the first step on the staircase. Digging up the existing floor, adding in 200mm of insulation, screen and UFH pipework is not really a viable option. But 20mm of insulation will help. Now back to ventilation. You have probably read that systems with heat recovery are not effective unless the ACH are below 3. I have never calculated this, but it intuitively make sense. So get the airtightness sorted out. It is more important than having a wall U-Value of 0.1 W.m-2.K-1. Fitting MVHR is a bit disruptive as it usually requires boxing in some pipework between floors. This does depend on the house layout. Through the wall systems are available, but they are not as efficient as proper systems, but are cheaper. Ditch any thoughts of a log burner. All these do is add CO2 to the atmosphere (what we are trying to avoid), put holes in your walls and roof (what we are trying to avoid), fill the house and street with particulates (there is new WHO guidance on this), cost a lot to run and smell. Fitting an ASHP is probably the easiest option if you have room for radiators (really convectors), but plinth heater can help in tight spaces. All these are, are fan heaters, with the heat coming from hot water, rather than an electrical element. I have no idea how noisy they are in a domestic setting, only experienced them in offices, where I never noticed them. The main thing is to not be tricked into thinking that there is some wonder technology that will sort it all out, cost less to install, have zero running costs and the government will pay for it all, and reduce your income tax to 10p. So if you hear the terms Far Infra Red, Reflective, Nano, Eco, Sustainable, Multifoil, Easy, or other such nonsense, laugh at them and walk away. Yes
  6. 2 points
    Or a terminology one, they should be called convectors, not radiators. I do hope that science lessons in schools start teaching this stuff, it is all very simple, little mathematics needed and could make a huge difference.
  7. 1 point
    Yeh, all sounds nice, cosy and attractive but kind of veers away from what we (sustainable houses) are trying to achieve. Minimal impact on the environment etc.
  8. 1 point
    Both Airtightness and EWI are *all* about detail, detail, detail. EWI especially is also about careful planning. You need to be obsessive about it. I'm not sure I mentioned it in my thread, but you would need to specify deeper external windowsills so that they stick out over any potential EWI. Cheap if you do it when you do the windows; a pain if you forget.I think I specced either 200mm or 250mm. Also for door thresholds, which I detailed with support for when people stand on them. Inside a classical example of a cold bridge that gets forgotten when doing IWI is the wall strip between the two floors (does not apply to you, but remember you have similar potentially under your floor). One way to think about it is where your insulated envelope runs. In the Little Brown Bungalow I made it beneath the internal floor, and up the walls where I had CWI, and on the loft floor. So I actually ran the plumbing and electrical services under a floating floor to keep them fully inside it. That meant I maintained the airbricks to keep the joints ventilated and dry. In the end I did not do EWI, as it was already good without it, even though my walls had a poorish U-value. The only wall I dry lined was with the other half of the semi-detahced pair, and that was for sound not heat reasons. F
  9. 1 point
    Sounds like a blocked condensate trap / discharge pipe etc. The "smoke" will be "plume", eg the steam created when excess levels of moisture meet the hottest parts of the heat exchanger. The condensate water is acidic, so is chewing through the steel case of the boiler as we type. Google the manufacturers installation guide and in there it will tell you how the service the condensate trap. DO NOT run the boiler with the trap off, as that being removed opens a clear path to the burner chamber and there is a possibility that products of combustion may escape. I'm not entertaining the covid jibber-jabber, but you need a plumber in ASAP to repair this, or one or two a little later to replace the rotten out boiler with a new one. Time to stop bathing with a thermos flask and get some degree of reality and a pragmatic solution to resolve this now.
  10. 1 point
    Some good info and ideas here in @Ferdinand's blog:
  11. 1 point
    Thank you so much. @newhome. A bunch of reading coming up methinks. Dave - you are also a star, son. Right - @pocster, - wake up. Read @ProDave's post above
  12. 1 point
    You ain't going to like this...... shovel, spade, hole. Or digga 🙂 French drain round the edge of your garage and anything else you can do to lower the water table. Wait for rain. Think of England, Harry and Saint George.
  13. 1 point
    12th post in this thread Sometimes google does a better job of searching than the forums own search feature.
  14. 1 point
    Isn't there and adjustable spring to counterbalance top-hung opening?
  15. 1 point
    Sometimes I wish I hadn't found this place or it's predecessor. Before then I just owned "a house" and all houses were nominally equal, just bigger or smaller. Up until then I thought PIR stood for passive infra red. Airtightness was something to do with Tupperware. Then I went and visited a passiv esque house. It was shortly after this that the realisation / depression set in. 😉
  16. 1 point
    We got ours passed with a 900mm standard banister and spindle set inside.
  17. 1 point
    Agree with Mark. Angle grinder . hammer , new hangers twisted nails , eye protection . It'll be fun.
  18. 1 point
    Def look towards a 200mm cavity of your going for EPs beads. Wet plaster is a massive help. Then it's just the simple things. No letter box, good quality 3g Windows, every light switch and socket conduit sealed up, ceiling lights covered over using thermal hoods or clay plant pots if your tight like me, airtightness tape from the blocks to your window and door frames. There's many tiny details that aren't expensive to do but will have a big impact on your houses heat loss.
  19. 1 point
    I'll be doing that for architrave and skirting for any tiled/wood/laminate areas, but I can see the benefits of door lining going in before plastering. Maybe not before plasterboard though I guess. I'll probably loose fit when putting up the MF and slide it out for plaster boarding, before then finally fitting before plastering.
  20. 1 point
    Yes, @pocster , you were asleep as usual 😴. The BCO route is one way of indicating you are finished. However, there are several others as detailed below Here's the relevant bit from the form you have to complete; This is the key issue The 3 months will usually run from the date of the document you’re using as your completion evidence. Here's a photo Oh, that word 'usually' (above): needs to be read in conjunction with the notes provided in the main VAT thread.
  21. 1 point
    Planners look on each application on its merits. I think your argument here might be that the recent new dwelling was based on the original permission which was founded on sustainable design principles. That the owner should then build less is up to them. If they wish to continue with the original permission then it should not deviate from that original permission, at least in principle. However the owners are entitled to submit as many applications as they like. If this matters sufficiently to you, then perhaps have a word with a local planning consultant. They know the clauses backwards (better than the planning officers usually) and the local precedents. There would be a significant cost (a few hundred for a preliminary discussion and a few for a formal objection.) On what grounds was this refused, as this is likely to be a useful start for your objection? If you don't object in principle to more development, but to the nature of it, it is worth making that clear.
  22. 1 point
    House looks braw, well done As you did it yourself, what would you have done differently?
  23. 1 point
    I cannot guarantee the formula is correct but it seems to be ballpark and i’m delighted someone found it useful. You would need a 25kW combi boiler to keep up with that flow rate. A heat pump at say 8.33kW ( for easy sums) output will buy you a meaningful amount of extra hot water. It would reduce your effective draw on the stored energy in the tank by 1/3 to 8l/min giving you 30 minutes of continuous showering. If you were to space them out over a period of an hour you could have 4 x 10 minute showers, In a situation of exceptionally high demand,like with guests, you could have the tank at a higher temp or engage a couple of immersions to give you even more capacity.
  24. 1 point
    I’ve got triple glazed Velux windows. They are not small windows and top hung. They are noticeably heavy and difficulty to lift in top hung mode - to the point where we use them in central opening mode but that means we need to keep the vent bar open. I’ve not encountered Veluxes before so can’t compare to the 2g option
  25. 1 point
    If still looking I can provide details of mine. The main guy was not easiest to contact or get along with but the day to day chap is excellent. I'm building Nudura on a bit of a complex site so a lot of SE involvement.
  26. 1 point
    Yes completing those early entries was a job I never got round to. I must do that. I shall be pouring a glass of the good Whisky later, and we will be going out for a meal at the weekend.
  27. 1 point
    I had no idea that some semi idiot-proof scaffolding (Kwik Stage, CupLock) would be such an excellent investment. Add a few well -stacked and scrubbed boards, and four well-oiled wheels and you are away. Heavy - yes, but thats what wives and children are for. Somehow, most months, I have a little less scaffolding than I had last month. Twice a year locals come and ask to borrow some. Not all of it comes back. I have never leant the scaff ladder out. I just can't ever consider being without enough scaffolding to work safely anywhere on the house. For a DIY Max build, the business case for some kwikstage or cuplock (or similar) is compelling
  28. 1 point
    I think ASHPs are good if you have a low energy home, but even then you at looking £10k install, (more with a high energy home) with grants you could half this. You will need bigger radiators as the temperature developed by heat pumps is lower than oil or gas. Heat pumps when optimised develop approx 3kW heat for each kW of electrical energy, but electricity cost 3 times that of gas, but not sure about oil. Oil boiler nearly produces a kW heat for each kW of energy put in. As everyone has said insulation is king, keep the heat in. Ventilation, part of your heat loss calcs is ventilation heat loss, an old house could have 10 or more uncontrolled air changes an hour, each of these air changes needs to be heated. An airtight house has 1, or less air changes per hour, that require heating. We have solar panels, but they only really produce lots of energy in the summer, if can get some gains in winter via an immersion heater that is good, but don't bank on it in a heating design. My recommendations are Find or build a spreadsheet, work out room heat loss as it is now, then modify spreadsheet with different options also look at costs. The more you move from what you have now, the more the cost, especially if you have someone else to do the work. In NE Scotland there is scheme running to apply external insulation, my wifes sister also in an ex council house has just had done for next to nothing, this included re rendering the external of the house. Insulation and fix drafts. Get a basic diagnostic air test done, this will highlight areas where you are leaking, to see if they expensive to fix or otherwise. There's a guy in Forres that does tests. Find out if you have a condensing oil boiler, if so optimise return temps from heating to a low 40 degree C, so it runs in condensing mode. This may require larger radiators to give the right output in to room, but much cheaper than biomass or ashp Look at your water cylinder check the insulation, my be worth keeping or replacing. Overall keep it simple
  29. 1 point
    I have to agree with @Tennentslager but can't help thinking it was a missed opportunity. The build looks impressive and not without its challenges. The amount of work undertaken by @JohnMo himself, is commendable but here's the rub. Whether or not it all went without a hitch, I'm sure the experiences, progress, decision making and supply issues would been useful to the collective also undertaking such a project. In addition, it would also have been useful to know what if any knowledge / advice / tips, one may have picked up from the forum during any given project. Having been one of many who have benefited from the knowledge, skill and advice shared on this forum, I would urge others to do as I did, and that is to share your experiences - This forum should be treated as a "two way street." I'll get my coat!!
  30. 1 point
    Watch the prices rise £5K now. I remember the grants for insulation came out, insulations prices about quadrupled overnight, it never recovered. Make these things cheap, don't give out grants and subsidies. Just drive the prices down. No tax on green tech etc. etc. Grants just line the pockets of contractors and manufacturers.
  31. 1 point
    I think the glazing and stonework around the door looks beautiful. I'd have little faith in any modern window or door company keeping that looking as good as it is. I think I'd be looking for a good joiner to make and fit a new timber door. Please don't go anywhere near PVC. The PVC window on the right doesn't look great and a PVC door with that ornate stone and glazing would look worse.
  32. 1 point
    But if you were in a converted flat or even purpose built over 15 years old your neighbours would not thank you. Lots of people work at home. Up, shower, breakfast kettle toaster, kettle again hairdryer lunch, microwave, fridge, computer printer, TV, lighting, cooker. Face it there is no way a normal person consumes 80% of their electric between midnight and 7:00 AM. Post up your last 3 bills and it will either prove me right or prove that you are not normal.
  33. 1 point
    Wilo Yonos 25/1-6 does around 3.3 cubic metres / hour on full so would expect it is closer to 2 on a normal setting. In 15mm pipe that would equate to around 3.2m/s flow rate.
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    My understanding is limited on heat pumps and the UK grid. Does the expected increase in heat pumps result in the need for much more electricity to be generated, how will this occur, whilst already trying to increase the percentage from renewables at the moment?
  36. 1 point
    Don't it work because it takes time to charge up the capacitor, this is what shifts the phase. I take it that the capacitor/s are after the transformer/s. Can you work out the RMS voltage?
  37. 1 point
    We had a lot of hot air ducted heating systems installed in the 1960s/1970s that came out on skirting or floor vents. As children we loves sitting in front of the vents. Making a comeback?
  38. 1 point
    Agreed. If my old man had let me rewire his place when I offered he wouldn't be having to stoop down like he is now. Ditto lowering the switches. Any I move at home now go in at the new heights.
  39. 1 point
    Only those BR’s that apply to what you’re carrying out. The BR’s that relate to heights of sockets, switches, etc… do not apply to extensions.
  40. 1 point
    If it does need underpinning then,potentially the cost of that element is reduced by the fact that you’d want to excavate there to repair/reinstate the path & to investigate the condition of the drainage.
  41. 1 point
    From memory (but not a currently registered gas fitter ..!!) if you use tracpipe it can be put in ceiling and floor voids as it is ventilated at either end and the outer shell holds the inner pipe.
  42. 1 point
    It’s mentioned as a dam. Therefore flowing water, not a stagnant lake or pond etc. Flowing water = abstraction license afaik as you’re affecting the downstream ‘condition’ of the water. Further reducing temps in winter can have adverse affects on nature / pond life etc so best to check ( at least ) before going down this route.
  43. 1 point
    1. No idea. I'm assuming as there's no point going below the FFL. 2. No idea, but I think the guy doing the metal work got the FFL wrong at the start. Think others are ok. The only Packers the joiner used were little strips of DPC
  44. 1 point
    That’s one thing I’ve never tried actually, doesn’t appeal though, will stick to burning gas until I’m at an insulation stage to go with an alternative heat source.
  45. 1 point
    I’d say the course just visible is part of the footings brickwork & was never meant to be seen,the fact that it’s stack bond is annoying but nothing to worry about in the scheme of things. Extremely hard to tell if there’s any actual movement occurred locally in the zone highlighted or if the pointing has degraded over time with rain splash. Same with the perpend joints on the partially seen course-no way of knowing if it’s degraded or if the joints were ever full in the first place? Can I ask the significance of tomorrow?
  46. 1 point
    Do the producers of theses programs make the home owners look really stupid, or are they really stupid?? who orders a lorry load of concrete and doesn’t notice an old weak bridge in the way that the lorry won’t get over. Really are they that thick.
  47. 1 point
    You need to get your own EPC done to apply for the RHI. It isn't automatically done for you, if that's the question? (Source: I had RHI approved 2 months ago)
  48. 1 point
    Make sure you don’t go off the straight line when laying or it’ll quilt up and then you’re into cutting out sections and patching. It’s quite hard to spot too, so keep checking back on the previous runs to ensure they’ve stayed down. A cheap 9” roller will help to lay it smoothly. FWIW, I’ve laid Christ-knows how many floors without Ditra / other and not lost any of them ever. My golden rule is prepping and never laying onto a dry / dusty / contaminated subfloor. I have seen others lay directly onto screed which has been too long on site / not laid quick enough and the tiles + adhesive + top skin of screed has come up one one big sandwich. Screed needs to be sound, prepped properly, and bingo. I’ve only ever used a mat over unknown sub base or liquid screeds.
  49. 1 point
    I had a 200mm cavity but brick outer skin, I also had “check” reveals. This means the inner skin has a bigger width than the outer skin and the windows and doors are fitted to the inside of the outside wall. Mine was held in place by stainless brackets and expanding foam strip between the window and outer skin. (I also had angled reveals giving better light into the rooms and looked cottagey.)
  50. 0 points
    Boarders working flat out this week, I had to quickly finish off some ventilation. Packing up this evening noticed a couple things missing... Rechargeable work light, silicon gun and PZ2 bit and holder now boarded up in vaulted ceiling forever. I'm sure I'm not the first to do this....
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