ProDave

Wait a moment. More pictures needed, but you are not planning to put it in the middle of the hob behind it are you?

Our equipment has just been upgraded by the provider so we now get 100mbps compared to 50mbps before. The higher speed is free for a year but after that an extra £5 per month, or you can revert to 50mbps to keep the same price. for normal browsing of streaming tv etc I really can't see any difference. the only time it might make a difference is if you have a big download to do. i suspect at the end of the year we will revert to 50mbps. Both are far better than the max 3mbps and unreliable connection with frequent drop puts with ADSL.

I recall in the early days it the internet, the dial up days, there were things called DACS boxes that split one telephone line to serve 2 properties. It limited the dial up speed to 33K rather than 56K I wonder after this initial fibre rollout, if they will introduce a similar fibre splitter? it would potentially halve the speed to the 2 properties but I doubt many people would notice if they could only get 500MB rather than 1 GB.

I did my VAT claim with the temporary habitation, I needed the cash. I could have waited until full completion if I wanted to.

Ours in insured via Adrian Flux and has been since we got a Scottish certificate of temporary habitation. Nobody ever asked to see it I just told them it was a "new build"

I really think the company is harvesting grant money to do a s**t install, knowing probably nobody will ever want to connect to it now we have a decent company supplying a wireless service so it is unlikely any of these fibres will be made live and tested.

Drain connector is definitely wrong. you will get drain smells from there. Should be via a trap, probably a waterless trap.

Usually in these situations you do a google search for the email address of the CEO and vent your claim there. the few times I have tried, it gets the result you want. Did you TELL them the plug had been removed? I bet if you had just sent it back without saying, or taken it back in person, nobody would have noticed.

I am about to face that. I have got myself into the position of helping a new boat owner learn to sail their own boat. She came for a sail on our boat yesterday and I was staggered by how much is "obvious" to us she did not understand.

That is what we did with ours to arrive at the 1200mm gap. Not on wheels but take all the drawers out and empty the cupboards, and 4 strong blokes could slide the whole thing as one unit.

I have a very low opinion of the way full fibre is being rolled out. For years, we only had copper ADSL. I kept hoping OR would at least fit a fibre cabinet at the top of our road and give us all FTTC with copper just for the last bit. No not interested. Our saviour is a local wireless company now serving us, but it is a niche product only available in a particular area. Just recently, Highland Broadband have been digging up our roads and verges laying fibre to every property. Having seen their work I think it is abysmal, the fibre cables are imho buried way too shallow in the verges and under the road and not even in any conduit. The first utility that needs to dig anywhere near them will likely sever them. And as above they have only laid fibres to the existing houses. No sign of any spare fibres to allow new builds. And worse still there is a physically completed house but not finished internally so not signed of and no street address issued, and that has not been provided with a fibre to connect to. So if he ever wants fibre broadband he will likely not be able to or face a ridiculous cost that could have been avoided with a little thought from the people building the network.

I believe so, Stairs are minimum 900mm and doors wider than your 30" I am not up to date with the latest version, my house was built to regs 10 years ago.

Gus is referring to Scottish regs that need a minimum space of 1400mm by 1600mm to manoeuvre. Requirements may be different in England.

So those of us with PV fitted over 10 years ago have got the "rwong" RCD's fitted.

At 1200 we can open the dishwasher and one of the drawers on the island to empty stuff into and just squeeze through the gap. The minimum you can tolerate will depend a lot on what is there in your particular situation.

We have 1200mm and would not want less. But that is because a dishwasher door opens into that gap.

Front edge and left side edge will want flashing. Rear edge will have a small overhang for gutter. The edge adjoining the garage will not be flashed in. Far too complicated. There will be a small gap and the fact rain will run down the wall does not matter. Snow here sticks to the 45 degree tiled roof so no amount of slope will stop it sitting on this roof.

Photo time First beam hoisted and fixed (not properly for final fixing) That's at 5 degree slope, front is about 300mm higher than back. It does not look as ridiculous as I first feared, although it is above the eaves, it only slightly breaks the line of the tiles. Joists will span sideways at 400mm centres to a similar beam the other side and that will be supported by 3 posts. The two side beams will be doubled up and I will brace these overhangs back to the posts on the garage side. I might try the front just a little higher before I decide. the posts won't get cut to length until the very end. And this is why it needs to be so high. There is presently 12cm clearance under the rear beam. We need to do a trial demount before committing to this height because jacking it up takes weight off the springs and the truck rises, so we need to make sure there is enough height to do that.

It's a single slope so no "ridge" At my present 5 degree ground level mock up that will put the front of the car port just over 300mm higher than the back. I need 3.2m clearance at the back, that will make it 3.5m clearance at the front. That is going to be above the eaves height of the garage it is joining to so it is a question of will it look ridiculous or not. I hope to get a mock up later and take a picture. The length of the roof will be 6 metres. I was hoping to find a roof material supplier that can do 6M in one run without joints. I might be over optomistic there. If not I will spec the overlap as a bit more than normal, but as I say not the end of the world if a little rain leaks. If it is windy enough to blow some rain up the joint, it will be lashing in at the open rear of the car port anyway. Re coatings. I hope to get them supplied to the length I need so nothing needs cutting, like I did with my sun room roof. That has given no problem so I will look up what make it was and they will be my favourite all else being equal.

Back again. Good job I built the rest of the house quicker than this car port. So I have the 2 posts adjacent to the garage up, and have some lengths of 9 by 2 C24 and starting to mock up how it will actually work. My first question is what is the minimum fall I can get away with on a box profile steel roof. Bearing in mind this is a car port and if it's too low, any leakage e.g. at a joint is not a disaster like it might be on a proper roof over a building. My initial on the ground mock up suggests no more than 10 degrees and I would like it as low as 5 degrees. I am sure any roof supplier would say that is too low, but I have to build this quite tall and I am trying to avoid the front edge being ridiculously high once the back edge is at the required height. Pictures later when I hopefully have made some progress.

There is so much talked about H&S that defies logic. e.g I was working in my own capacity fixing an outside light on a large property. Because of the height, I had my ladder tied becuase it made me feel safe. At the same time a firm was doing repairs elsewhere on the building. One guy wearing a high viz vest decided he needed to have words with me. He started with asking why I had tied my ladder, like it was any of his business. Then he asked why I was not wearing a hard had. When I pointed out there was no work above me so nothing likely to land on my head, but YOU re not wearing a hard hat and I might drop a screwdriver on you, he walked off in huff.

I would HOPE if I ever needed an EPC after 10 years, I could go back to the original company (if they still exist) and ask them to re issue the same EPC, if they still have the data on file.

Any information on how people that self built a really good house and got a good EPC with a full SAP. How are they getting on if wanting to sell after >10 years and need to get a new EPC in order to sell. Are they forced to use the rdsap system and end up with lots of bad assumptions and get a poor EPC?

One of my more unusual jobs was to wire a very remote public toilet. The wiring consisted of a 12V wind turbine and a small solar panel to charge a 12V battery that ran a small low power fan to ventilate the composting tank, and a small 12V light and switch. Building control still wanted an EIC for the work, even though as far as I am concerned it does not come under BS7671

Not a solution for this case, but certainly a suggestion for others reading this and planning ahead. Just get the electricity supply moved ONCE to a kiosk at the boundary of the plot. It never needs moving again. You just run your own cable from the kiosk to the house. Job done.