Makeitstop

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About Makeitstop

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  1. That isnt the fitter fault as was said above, but I think he could've questioned it. Still, if youd painted it, he may have thought you wanted it that way. All a bit of a shambles really.
  2. If you've not paid them yet, I'd be asking questions with retail owner
  3. Bubbles? I cant see why they are unable to stretch it due to cold. What'll happen exactly? The entire thing looks a bit like you've had "could'nt give a f**k types in here.
  4. Hard to say. It shouldn't be two different colours no, but the crease line should decrease in appearance, although whether it goes altogether is another thing.
  5. Well, then I guess you're stuck with what you have unfortunately. Still, I do feel it's a bit crap of the fitter to just whack new stuff down without making clear the issues your existing floor posed. If your skirting had none of that pointless beading, the gripper would be tacked approx 10mm from the face of it, and the carpet is wedged down behind the gripper, where it then sits tightly up against your skirting, as it is held in place by the spikes on the gripper strips. What you have there will be because the beading is actually stopping the gripper getting "closeenough" to the face of the skirting, and so, by the time the carpet is driven down behind the gripper, it hasn't got the chance to be close enough to the face of the skirting. To me, the fitter should maybe have pointed that out (or you should have known) that the beading is not supposed to be there when using fitted carpets. What you have now is the appearance that the carpet was cut short. Not nice
  6. This looks like a compression mark where the carpet has been folded. Should really have been neatly rolled, as that helps to prevent marks like this
  7. You said you had carpet previously, and yet the image shown above shows beading that's often used to edge laminate flooring. Was your skirting like that image above?
  8. Yes, I suppose it is, but at the same time, the customer is entitled to request any element of a build is as it should be, and should not really be having to go around after the "professionals" doing remedial jobs. At the end of it all, no matter how it's viewed, this is arguably the most valuable asset anyone owns, and if someone is going to the enormous aggro of building their own home, they are well within their rights to want it done "as it should be done". I'd sort these gaps myself yes, but I'd let the builder know I was going to do that. I'd also let him know I expect critical elements of the work to be done well, and by done well, I mean AS IT REALLY OUGHT TO BE, and not as most customers may accept it being. To add.... as I hadn't read the last few posts... Yes, BCO is a good shout, as is a discussion with Kingspan technical. You'll know where you are then for sure.
  9. Have to admit, I'm unsure of what the general rh is in passive houses with controlled ventilation, but to my mind, 60%+ rh sounds fairly high. I only refer to my knowledge of good humidity control of the timbers I use for my work, which cover a range of some of the most valuable timber on the planet. If I see the environment getting to 60%, then I know it isnt good for it. I'd expect a range of 35%-50% in a centrally heated home. Perhaps that's the issue, but as I said, I'm not up to speed on such a property.
  10. I did wonder about the walls and thought that an alternative to the pir may be a smarter choice, and this is why I posted this up. My only concern is... what is there that competes in terms of efficiency, and, is there any viable option. Same applies to the floor, as I have the option of adjusting depth there, as nothing is down yet, apart from piling, so could in theory get more insulation in by ensuring the rc beam is set lower, or below damp blockwork allows for it. The existing house is simple brick / block construction and is approx 6/7 years old. The heating is gas c/h, so the system will be extended to serve the additional area.
  11. Hi all, Just looking to line things up for a kitchen extension, and want to get some views on insulation choices. So far, the buildups look like those set out below, but I'm open to adjusting to whatever, should smarter choices be possible and the clear way to go. Structure is simple brick / block construction with 340mm cavity walls. Floor is block and beam, off rc beam sat on piling. Roof is warm flat. I guess there is scope to adjust from what I've got here, so please feel free to share any thoughts on what and why. Wall buildup…. U-value 0.21W/m2k 12.5mm PB 100mm Celcon high strength Block 90mm Kingspan kooltherm K108 50mm cavity Facing brick to match existing. --------------------------------------------------------- Floor buildup…. U-value 0.18W/m2k 65mm screed PE sheet separating layer 100mm Kingspan kooltherm K103 board Visqueen gas membrane / similar Beam and block ------------------------------------------------------------ Roof buildup….. U-value 0.15 W/m2k GRP 18mm ext ply Min 180mm kingspan thermaroof Tyvek VPL 18mm ext ply / firring with fall to 1:40 47 X 220 Rafters @ Max 400mm centres 12mm pb.
  12. No, I think it's better left alone and youd be wise to pass on doing what you've considered.
  13. Is it just me, or does anyone else smell lath below that cracking.
  14. If this wasn't so potentially serious, I'd be laughing more than I am currently at this thread. Look, get another plasterer in (or call a few if need be) and ask what their thoughts on this clown are. My guess is that they'll think you're taking the pi55, but ask anyhow. That will surely let you know what you're dealing with here. I have never even heard of this being done before. Insanity.