Jump to content

Conor

Members
  • Posts

    3192
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    9

Conor last won the day on August 21 2023

Conor had the most liked content!

4 Followers

Personal Information

  • Location
    Co. Down

Recent Profile Visitors

9225 profile views

Conor's Achievements

Advanced Member

Advanced Member (5/5)

1.3k

Reputation

  1. You ideally want to run 110mm PVC pipes under the slab, then up where the drains will connect. You don't want (can't?) to run 50mm standard PVC pipes underground. I recall your other post about the shallow 110mm pipe. This will be the same situation.
  2. use a proper rest bend with foot and a SINGLE length of pipe going to the outside and set both ends in a little concrete. Then pack in around with insulation and foam. Put the pipe in before the insulation. BTW, 150mm EPS doesn't seem like very much to me. What grade is it? In an insulated raft you'd normally have 200-300mm
  3. No, you get telescopic platforms that have a good 10m horizontal reach.
  4. Have all deliveries offload at the roadside, arrange a telehandler etc in advance if needed. Most of ours except concrete and screed and smaller lorries were left at the roadside. We had a lorry rip off our postbox, and another coping stones along our neighbours wall. They don't give a sh1t.
  5. In winter, during a prolonged cold snap, it's not unreasonable to assume you could be consuming 20kWh a day. And your PV could only be generating 1 or 2kWh. 2kWh (based on my 5kW producing as low as 200Wh on a dark day in November and December.) You'll need an alternative power source. Re the mortgage issue. You'll potentially run across this every time you remortgage, and will not get the best rates. Also, what if you want / need to sell in the future? How many people are prepared to pay full market rate for an off-grid house? Finally, you'll be way, way, way over producing in the summer with all that electric going to waste. If it were me, I'd still go for a decent array, but get the grid connection as well. I hope you can get the price down.
  6. Just the same as house conveyancing, we paid around £1200, but then a few extras (indemnity policy, extra searches) brought it closer to £2k
  7. Almost certain you would for cladding and balcony. And quite possible uPVC cladding will be rejected. A lot depends on local context.
  8. There's a fair bit of time pressure actually as the thing is fully visible from the road and we're using it to screen the garden from the road. I'd be aiming to get the frame and cladding done over the Easter break, so 3 or 5 days. Hiring does make more sense and I can't see myself really needing it again. £45 for a long weekend hire, makes lots more sense than £300 for a new machine that I might never use again. https://www.balloohire.com/product/equipment-hire/finishing-nail-gun
  9. Watched a video where you basically build a 4x2/3x2 frame all around the container, with bolts at the corners through the lifting eyes into ply board blocks so you don't fix through the container at any point. I'll be fixing into 3x2s at 600mm centres, horizontally. (Instead of the domino clamps which are £80 a pop, I'll be making my own out of treaded rods and routered wooden blocks.) I'm also planning a GRP roof with sedum on top, with large overhang on one side for a potting area. That side will also have a living wall.
  10. thanks Russel. Hadn't considered nail finish, but happy would be happy with lost /part buried head rather than having a head on display.
  11. I'm planning on cladding my shipping container with an alternating widths mix of 25mm thick softwood. I'll have thousands of fixing pints, don't fancy doing that with the impact driver. What kind of nail gun would be best for that and also things like fence panels, decking etc? I've a Makita collection but don't see anything suitable in their range. Something like this gasless first fix gun work? https://www.powertoolworld.co.uk/dewalt-dcn692n-xj-18v-xr-brushless-1st-fix-framing-nailer-body-only?srsltid=AfmBOoqwQGfkNGoyVZQk24KRdVQDvKzm6mnDr2idh6UWV_EFg9j5tvRijTY
  12. Just don't over twist or kink them. Or over tighten. They usually have rubber o-rings and don't need much more than hand tight.
  13. My mate owns and runs a ground works company. His mates rate for him and his machine and accessories is £55/HR. Worth it. I do some diggering, and I'm planning doing some grading, garden wall founds, and landscaping next week. Will be about the fourth time I've hired a machine for a week or so. You do get the hang of the basics pretty quickly, like skiing, but I'm not tackling a black run any time soon. He can do at least twice the work I could do in a day, and far higher standard. Same as any trade really.
  14. You really want the company supplying the door to do the measurement. It can't be that hard, fairly standard in the industry. Doesn't matter who then fits it, just make sure the supplier takes the liability of measuring.
  15. The 15mm pipework and stop tap on the incoming supply will be a bit of a bottleneck. I'd replace the old lead pipe, probably encrusted and causing a fair bit of friction. Check your water suppliers policy, it should be free on the site if you replace yours ast far as the boundary.
×
×
  • Create New...