Conor

Yes. You will need to know: Desired flow rate at the outlet. Diameter of pipework - make sure you use internal bore. Length of pipework. Chose your metric. In water networks, we use litres per second. In your case, litres per minute are a better starting poimt. Then enter your data here: http://www.calculatoredge.com/mech/pipeline velocity.htm Then think back to school and calculate the time it'll take over your given length. You'll find that halving the pipe diameter will result in the time reducing by a factor of alomost 4.

@Tom is upgrading access at this stage an option? E.g widening where possible, drainage works, levelling off. By the sounds of it you're going to have to improve access for construction anyway - concrete and stone deliveries etc. Will make life easier all round by throwing a few grand on a few dozen loads of stone and widening works.

Loved Fred! Such passion for all things suity, rusty and steamy. That was chimney no.3 to come down. The best thing is the bricks are coming down pretty much undamaged and separated as the old lime mortar is so weak. Almost clean enough to stick straight on a pallet and sell.

Unexpected consequence of Corona Virus - you need your 8.5 month pregnant partner to help you pull the house down as all the hire places are closed and you need a long chain and a VW golf in lieu of a telehandler... VID-20200328-WA0006.mp4

Take a look at insulating screeds. You could put down 70mm PIR then insulating screeds on top to give you your floor ready to finish.

We were in a similar position 5 years ago. Got rid of the conservatory and put in a full width songle story extension (5.5x3.8m) for about £20k. I wouldn't even consider repurposing the conservatory. I would definitely hold off making any decisions right now, it might be worth saving for a year or two and doing a proper, full width, full height extension.

The installation manual will specify... From what I've seen from Mitsubishi etc, all seem to have 22mm connections. Yes, fully insulate the full pipe runs.

They look perfect. About €12-€14k for exactly what I need. We'd be quids in Vs renting in 15months. Concern would be if they stop manufacturing before I need it...

I like that idea. I've just finished stripping out the old house and have a massive amount of roof timbers and floor boards. I could clad the thing for basically the cost of insulation and a few boxes of nails. Storage won't be an issue as we've a shipping container on site already.

We've always found static caravans to be far too cold... Would prefer something with 100mm insulation all round. But I'll look in to it. We'll definitely get the ground works done as my mate owns a ground works company and will come up on his own and prepare the site.

So, my mate's builder is walking off the job this week due to you know what. And our architect has said other firms as reducing numbers on sites and not taking on new work. I'm sure suppliers will be soon to follow. As our build involves a basement, ICF, roof panel system, and lots of other non standard stuff, I'm really worried we won't be starting in may/June as I hoped. So that's got me thinking, for the price of two years rent (£20k), could I build a temporary home on site? 60-80m². Don't give a crap about planning or BC as it'll be temporary, and we have the space. Are there designs out there I can just download and follow? Something made out of 2x4s and ply, felt roof etc etc. I will have the time, and with a new baby on the way, really don't fancy spending two years in this apartment. (I've looked at prefab homes, but they are closer to £40k and I can't see those companies staying open for much longer)

I hate most extractors as well, more noise than anything. In my last house I fitted an external extractor that was brilliant and silent. In the new house I'll have a hob in the island, and will be fitting a flush grill in the ceiling in a recessed bulkhead. Will have the same external type motor. Means it will be out of sight all the time, and when in operation will be silent bit highly effective. As others have said, you will need some sort of continuous mechanical extraction to meet building regs.

@Delicatedave can't fault mine. It's the compound mitre saw with the 230mm blade I think. I've even swapped the blade for a diamond stone cutting blade for cutting tiles and coping stones. Cost me about £80 a few years ago. I see the prices have gone up tho.

Paper towels are the most hygenic way to dry your hands. Forced air dryers effectively aerosolize water from your hands and blast them all around the room. Dyson air blade is particularly effective in blasting them straight back in to your face, along with whatever is growing in the manky puddle below. I hold my breath and lean away when using public hand dryers. https://sciencebasedmedicine.org/air-dryers-vs-paper-towels/

I see that. And more expansive that I thought as well. Could always flip the board to complete the cut.