Conor

Agree with Jenki, you need to sort that arrangement is it breaks all sorts of good practices, not to mention building regs.

Jobs will crawl to a near stop. We did that, due to financial reasons. Don't regret it, but we're still trying to finish of stuff three years later. Get it fully finished then move in. Sell your current house to release the funds, and find somewhere to rent for a few months.

The ultimate method would be a crane. Crane to lift in a small excavator, a skip bucket then fitted to the crane to lift material out and dump it in to waiting tipper trucks. You'd probably be done in two days, including the footings and concrete for the extension. And the crane could lift in all your materials for the extension while it was there. Other than that, a micro excavator might be able to make it's way through the house to dig and load up into barrows. But going the the description of the layout, I don't think that would be possible. I'd rethink your whole approach and hold off any internal renovations until you've a full plan, and attack it in the right sequence. Speak to an architect.

Thinking back to a concrete pour I helped a mate with, I think four guys moved 7tonnes of concrete in about an hour. That's about 100 wheelbarrow loads, though a house and into the garden. Theres no point doing anything until you have a full design done. Could be wasted effort. Fyi that builder is taking the beeswax.

Where are the steels? If they've been waterproofed, then they are either embedded in masonry or on the outer leaf. In that case you wouldn't need to fire proof them. It would only be exposed steels within the building, that you wouldn't have painted. Pink boarding is completely acceptable, if the steels are fully covered by them. You won't be able to paint intumescent paint over the steels you've already painted with bituminous paint.

We got ours from Lithuania. Half the price of the UK or Ireland. Jonas something. I can look it up.

Lots of people do this. We had one contractor do the foundation, walls and steel structure. We then hunted down individual contractors for the rest. You save about 25% on a turn key service but you take on more risk.

Most places will take them back for a restocking fee . I've a small gym area on 50mm screed on insulation. It's bouncy and I would not trust a timber floor. I'd be going as nick says. And it'll be done faster and minimal price difference.

For a small number you might be best paying a day rate. 5 holes (from 63mm up to 200mm) half a day, two guys was £250.

The screed will continually release moisture for weeks so the humidity will remain high. A fan won't change things. The humidity might have dropped temporarily due to a curing reaction or something else entirely.

Yes. But it's made easier by the fact that our ground floor is effectively just two living spaces and a bathroom. Doors are rarely closed, if ever.

Most water companies won't allow sub metering, you'll need your own supply.

No, on our ground floor it's 70% laminate, one other room is carpet. Seven loops but operates as one zone. But no same loop under different flooring types, so just had to adjust flow rates and all works well.

We used 5mm wood fibre underlay with a tog of 1. UFH works absolutely fine. It gives a great feel under foot and dampens sound really well. I don't think this is something you need to think too much about.

It'll l fit in the chuck as is, no adapter needed. You might ruin the shank of the bit, but hardly a concern if it's once off use. Be aware with a bit that big (I've never used over 25mm), it might be bit of a struggle, and there will be a lot of strain on your drill. A clutch is needed.