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TonyT last won the day on January 17

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About TonyT

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  1. providing this information to everyone will help diagnose the problem, maybe solve them and definitely provide evidence to installers, governing body, valiant that you have done everything to help. I imagine the installers think you are a nuisance and are just f&&king you off, so take them out of the equation and go higher as others have said, but evidence is required...
  2. I would replace the tank and ensure the coil it has is sized for a heat pump so in future the tank can stay when the boiler packs in. until then insulate insulate insulate
  3. If you have a flexi liner, hope it’s installed the right way and the pipe isn’t upside down
  4. Sleeping pipes is standard installation practice not just for sealing for air thightness.
  5. I would have counter battened as Onoff suggested. the number of fixings from the batten into the VCL would be less than if screwing plasterboard to it. slimine down lights are also available but these generally have a led driver elsewhere to locate. I’ve used this in areas where gas is present, it’s I suppose the quick version of a cable transit, where cables used to be individually passed through a penetration in a wall, surrounded by rubber block and squished to make a seal.
  6. sorry that was 2 replies not indicating that the pylontec batteries were IP rated
  7. Have a look at plyontec batteries. outside is fine as long as the IP rating of the inverter and associated components are suitable for the environment.
  8. The warranty is worthless as it wasn’t installed properly effectively making it null and void.
  9. Yes, didn’t want the thread getting locked too soon as I’ve got a bet with the wife it will be on page 72 before it’s locked
  10. Or it’s because it take 10 pages to agree that the roof trusses will take your weight. 17 pages to cut the plasterboard hatch! 12 pages to explain skirtings The list goes on, and then you complain you miss posts.... what’s the temps?? get the installers back, it didn’t cost you anything for the install, so you are quids in
  11. But if you put the battery in the loft, allowing for the weight and higher operating temps you then need to know exactly cabling requirement back to consumer unit. where as if you say fit a 100x100mm trunking along the wall and fit everything below the trunking cabling through the trunking, it makes everything easier. can’t imagine getting a battery in a loft The latest Tesla battery is 114kg!
  12. And sleeve pipework through the wall to make it easier to seal and remove in future. so you could drill a 25mm hole, put a bit of 22 copper pipe in the hole, seal this to the fabric of the building, then pass the 15mm pipework through this, sealing with clear silicone at both ends.
  13. TonyT

    Dimmable LED

    I fit Megaman GU10 warm white they are Dimmable with varilight dimmers.
  14. I would try and have the incoming power in a garage so that inverters, meters, consumer unit, future batteries can all be added, configured and commissioned with little or no disruption to the house. I would oversize the PV as it’s cheap in the grand scheme of things, it will allow more useable generation in winter months.