Mr Punter

I suggest £2,500. I have (somewhere) a standard form I have used in the past and am happy to let you have it. I cannot vouch for its legalness though

Yes, I have done Exclusivity Agreements with purchasers in the past. On new builds, they are no longer binding on the buyer, who is entitled to their "Reservation fee" back if they decide to pull out so they are pretty useless in that instance. The agreements involve the Buyer paying a non refundable deposit (an amount they will not want to lose but can fairly easily write a cheque for) in return for exclusive rights to purchase at a given price for a period of, say, eight weeks after them receiving the legal paperwork. In return you would need to mark the property as Under Offer or Sold Subject to Contract and no viewings. The agreement is a simple 1 page document, signed by both parties.

They seem popular on the Tilers Forum for plank type tiles.

I have a garage with no electrics and I am looking for a recommendation for solar lighting. I am having the roof replaced with twin wall metal. The garage is to be used for tools etc, so I don't need the lights to work for more than, say 30 mins, but I want them to be very bright to properly illuminate the space. PIR would be nice (but not essential) so I don't leave them on by accident.

As long as the floor is clean - no dust - sticking will be fine.

It is a pain to fix counter battens through thick sheets of insulation to a roof as you are aiming for a rafter less than 2 inches wide and about 5 inches down. The fixings will be 160mm and need to be corrosion resistant. May be better to go for most of the insulation between rafters and, say, 30mm underneath, taped with ali. Easier and safer to fit.

Well done for getting the roof fall towards the outside. Much safer.

Depends on budget and current / required finish. Floor paint is cheap. Porcelain plank tiles are hard wearing and look good.

The paint is really expensive and you have to coat it lots. Doesn't' the ceiling give it 30 mins anyway?

Firstly, well done to your builder! Probably less than 1 in 10 would offer these options. I would go with option 1 but perhaps negotiate on the money. Option 3 seems a bit of a bodge. They will need to penetrate the existing membrane to fix the firrings and new deck.

Unless the existing structure is showing signs such as cracking, doors and windows not fitting etc. the existing footings are probably OK for what you propose. A trial hole later will confirm.

@recoveringacademic what is the external wall finish? It may be that this needs to be installed before sealing the windows, which can be done with Compriband or mastic. Compriband is vapour permeable so I understand that this reduces the risk of condensation forming between the window frame and the wall. An airtightness tape sealing the window to the wall structure on the inside reduces the risk further.

The windows were Velfac. IdealCombi do a similar looking system. The doors were another make. The lower part of the windows was obscured due to planning / overlooking constraints.

Do you know what materials you want this to be constructed from? Do the louvres need to be variable or fixed pitch? Do you need access to clean the windows? I can't see why these would be tricky. Can they not sit on the ground at the bottom? Have a chat to several potential suppliers then send some drawings to price. Get the price to include detail design drawings and better to do supply and fit. If the cladding is not yet complete all the better as there may be more fixing options, but this looks like a second fix item to me.

We did these horizontal ones in powder coated alluminium. There is a bracket at each end and one in the centre behind the slates which fixed to the outside of the timber frame with several coach screws.