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  1. 1 point
    I am in a similar position - taking ownership of our plot soon and unlikely to be starting for another 3-6 months. I had planned on just getting public liability insurance to cover this period (and advised that a policy would be c.£150 for 12 months). Is there any reason why I shouldn't?
  2. 1 point
    So after a month or so in the house, the time has provided us with an opportunity to reflect on what we have achieved and what if anything, we would change or could have done differently. In truth there is very little if anything that we would change. The rooms flow, the doors open in the right direction and the lights can be switched on and off in the appropriate places. Even the WBS has proven to be a worry that wasn't worth worrying about, as it's position within the hearth is no longer an issue due to it being vented through the back as opposed to the top. Some jobs have been completed such as the down pipes and a few jobs remain outstanding but nothing that has an impact upon our daily lives. One such job is the porch that needs to be slated. Thankfully I still have some financial leverage over those various trades so I know they will return. Our satisfaction I suppose, has to be routed in the preparation work, the research and being a member of this superb forum. None of these elements should be underestimated. Therefore I would like to sign off this blog with a heartfelt thanks to all those who have contributed, not only to my issues over the past couple of years, but to all the other threads, as they too are just as relevant / enlightening. I have also attached some images which complete the project, namely the WBS chimney installation and the erection of the much mentioned porch. For a final time, thanks for reading, and given the date, seasons greetings to you all. Paul.
  3. 1 point
    A month. Ah ha! The colour of the floor (away from the plastic) changes from off-white-ish in the morning to a biscuit / whiteish during the day. Other areas of the floor, not so well ventilated (corners, nooks and crannies) are visibly darker, but they too change colour a little during the working day. Very much more slowly, those out-of-the-direct-breeze areas are changing colours. Hence the need to keep the doors and windows open. Thanks @Ian
  4. 1 point
    I'm afraid I really struggle to see any advantage in using beam and block. Thermally, it's poor, as no matter how much insulation you install, there is always going to be a higher heat loss than a ground bearing slab with the same insulation, just because the air in the undercroft will be cold in cold weather, colder than the ground by a fair amount. What's the rational behind anyone using beam and block, as I'm genuinely puzzled?
  5. 1 point
    I have just had two of these fitted: https://www.coburn.co.uk/product/hideaway/ My joiner really doesn't like pocket doors and said this one is the best of a bad bunch (from his experience) The frame is encased in the middle of a 90mm partition and loos like 20mm. Obviously this approach takes up more space, however the wall is still fully insulated and feels very sturdy
  6. 1 point
    I disagree with that ... it’s no harder than taper edge boards with a tape and skim finish. In some instances it’s easier as you can create clean edges with a router and bearing bit - especially on corners. Right .... depends is the answer ..! Firstly it is very heavy - it needs two people to manage boards and you also need a board lifter to do ceilings. You can’t do it on your own ..! One of the benefits is that you don’t need to join on a stud - you use JointStik to bond the edges together, this is a cross between D4 glue and Gripfill and comes with a custom nozzle that puts a bead on the edge of the board. These joints are strong, but you need to leave them to dry properly before you do anything else. There are two ways to fit Fermacell to timber, either using the correct screws or by using crown staples. Screws hold better when the timber is uneven but leave a larger hole to fill. Staples are quick and easy and leave a very small gap to fill - very easy to do but if there is stress on a board they may move with only staples. Fermacell is very easy to repair though. If you cut a hole in the wrong place with a hole saw, or even cut an access hole, you can just glue it back in place, filler in the gap, sand and it’s done - you can’t tell it’s been removed. It is also surprisingly easy to cut. Fermacell sell a knife designed for the job and it works on the the score and snap method and is very good. It leaves a slight ragged edge but this takes filler really well so isn’t a problem. When it comes to filling all the screw holes or edges, you will need their filler. It’s much better than anything else and sands to a fine finish too. It’s better put on with a wide spatula or trowel, and it goes a long way. FST - or fine surface treatment - is the oddest product I’ve ever used ..!! Fermacell show it being applied with a squeegee, I use a 12” plastering trowel and you can do a 5m wall in probably 15 minutes. You put the thinnest coat possible on - the boards change from light grey to a slightly darker grey and that’s it ..! A quick sand over with a 120grit sanding board and you can be painting less than an hour after applying. The wall will look like it’s full of filler and screws etc, but a coat of paint and it’s all gone and you have a perfect flat wall. I’ve gone from a stud wall to ready for paint in 24 hours - that’s impossible with board and skim, and pushing it with TE/taping. The downsides are that the dust will destroy any power tool that you use to cut it. Circular saws or jigsaws create a lot of dust, routers are magic for cutting holes for back boxes or making perfect corners but all of them will die in a ditch with the dust. Buy cheap Titan ones and keep going back for the warranty claims ..! Fermacell is very good for perfect square and flat surfaces - anywhere that you want curves or anything that needs blended angles then you possibly need to look at something else or look at how to get skim coats applied to certain sections. I priced a job recently that would have been £4K in Fermacell, and was just less than £2k in plasterboard and skim in terms of materials. When it came down to it, the labour costs were double for the board and skim as there was a lot of curve and detail work but the whole lot came out about the same price in total. If you can DIY and have square rooms etc then you can get a very good finish with Fermacell that is comparable to a skimmed plaster finish with no wet trade delays.
  7. 1 point
    Are you using nudura, if so you need to more or less disregard everything you read on the subject and do your own details Most of the information you find on the net regarding icf is not appropriate. Its all American and has very little in comparison to here. Also so if you are using any of the eps type of blocks YOU WILL NOT get a dpm to lap into the blocks, bloody impossible won’t happen, not unless your names Paul Daniels have a look on @Stones blog he has some detailed pics of how his slab foundation and blocks marry up stones had to use a liquid dpm because of radon, I had to use a liquid because of methane. If you have neither I would just specify waterproof concrete for first truck load and then normal concrete after that.
  8. 1 point
    Having looked over the Building Regulation plans produced by my Architect, I'm confused as to what type of plasterboard I should be used where, as the blurb on the plans doesn't go into any detail? Is there any particular Building Regulation rule I should be following, or it as simple as use 12mm throughout?
  9. 1 point
    Most will order the boards in But if you have a ring round Someone May have a part pack in stock If you ask for gypsum backer boards They are bright yellow in colour Hope this helps
  10. 1 point
    theres your answer then --hot only is requirement
  11. 1 point
    I asked same question of blauberg agent in uk when talking about a centralized mvhr system for new build his suggestion was to accept small loss when in use and have it separate direct extraction to outside with a flap type exit . better than blocking up the mvhr filters and coating ducts internally over time with gunk just what I have been told you make your own mind up I know what I will do when i get that far
  12. 1 point
    I've had positive outcomes dealing with both PSW Trade and Heating-Instal. You'll find them both on Ebay and elsewhere and they are very competitive. I've also chanced buying some pipe from one of the Chinese shopfronts on Ebay, it arrived quickly and is (most likely) the same product everyone else is flogging anyway...
  13. 1 point
    When you say "in the footings", is this to take the water main through the foundation from outside to inside the building under what will eventually become the internal floor? I ask because the accepted practice is to use ducting for the water pipe as it passes through the foundation wall. The Building Construction Handbook 11th Edition page 937 has a diagram showing what is required with a 75mm drain pipe acting as a conduit for the water pipe through the wall and up to the FFL. In their diagram the footing blockwork is as deep as the regulation 750mm depth for laying a water main hence the water pipe and duct pass through blocks rather concrete. I assume your foundation concrete is thicker and the footing block courses will start above the 750mm regulation depth for the water main? The same page then has a confusing extra note "pipes passing under the foundations should be encases in mass concrete". I think this covers a different situation where the foundations are shallow and the arrival point of the mains pipe is completely below the main poured concrete foundations. Your builder should adhere to further mains water service standards as the water main passes up through the floor structure to FFL particularly insulation. The book shows insulation for the final 600mm of conduit up to FFL and where the water main emerges at FFL within 750mm of an external wall I think it recommends the whole conduit is insulated. Here is what an Anglian Water inspector would be looking for: Pipe has ducting and insulation where it enters the building. Ends of the duct are sealed. Within the property oversite, where there is a suspended floor or the pipe rises to less than 750mm deep within 750mm of an external wall the conduit should be insulated. If the pipe runs through concrete it is housed in continuous ducting to facilitate later removal. See page 11 https://www.anglianwater.co.uk/_assets/media/LED645_AW_DS_Connecting_10_steps_20pp.pdf I am a beginner who is about to tackle this on a diy basis so it would be good if @PeterWcould review this.
  14. 1 point
    Concreting a drainage pipe is quite normal Exspecially if it cuts across a drive Running a mains water in a footing is ridiculous and concreting over it is pretty stupid Services should be in a designated trench and be wyap certified I think Russel sumed it up perfectly You can’t trust someone llike this
  15. 1 point
    I've left a 75mm perimeter gap between inside skin of ICF walls and first UFH pipes. I'm going to fix scaff boards down at one end for the props to sit on. Like Russ says many many different ways to do it. The added faff of messing about with scaff boards out weighs cost of UFH in separate screed in my case.
  16. 1 point
    Just a quick list for ya...... PP delay 6 months: permission given but ecologist forgot to tell me he had an email allowing us to start (another 2 months) GCN license conditions 6 months delay Contractor buggered off for 5 weeks without telling us: wall blew down 9 to 12 months delay contractor buggered off multiple times at least a month at a time steels contractor got the measurements wrong 2 months delay architect - induced delay 1 month (all came down to the difference between max. and min. - copy and paste error on BR submission) Like I say at the beginning of this thread: Can't take a joke? Don't start.
  17. 1 point
    This is a safe and conventional solution, but with the usual hassles of laying the screed on a per room basis which induces level issues etc. Quite a few of us have gone for a single-slab approach which requires a more competent crew and tighter quality standards -- which is probably an ask too far for most builders. See @Stones and @JSHarris blogs for examples of this approach used successfully. In my case the upside was that the entire slab was flat to within a few mm over 11m, and was cheaper too. But either way you really need to have your floor plan fixed and accurate to ~1cm IMO, and that includes where your doorways and any fitted units and cupboards are going to go. Any variations as @Russell griffiths says will need to rely on gluing. @Redoctober, I am not sure why you took your pipe runs so close to the room boundaries . For example in your hall I would have stuck with 9 instead of 10 runs. Your wallside runs look about 50mm from the CLS. By the time that you've boarded up and fitted the skirting your it looks like your carpet fitter will be nailing his gripper rods in directly over the pipe runs. Maybe you should consider using adhesive grippers
  18. 1 point
    Our studs went in first and we even glued one set of studs as this was fitted after the screed was poured. You will see from the images, the bottom of the studs are protected and the manifold is already in place. Hope this helps.
  19. 1 point
    I fix studs everyday for a living Never on top of UFH As Russ has already pointed out You can glue the sole plate down it usually as a change of plan Get them down and run a rip of ply aroun the bottoms 50 mil higher than the floor level
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    I don't see the point. The thermafloor is easy to put down and by putting a polythene sheet above the insulation your stopping the screed flowing between the joints in the insulation (if any exist) which would create a thermal bridge. It would want to be incredibly poor workmanship or a very complex shape with an uneven sub floor to justify the thermal bead screed I think. What you could do is increase the thermafloor insulation to 150mm and use a 75mm concrete screed. This would give you an even better u-value while still providing a decent 75mm thick slab for the underfloor heating pipes.
  22. 1 point
    This question is asked a lot, and the answer always depends on the circumstances of the case. You can seek a certificate of lawfulness from the council to confirm that the planning permission has been commenced (anything less is not secure enough in my opinion). Whether the council grant one is likely to depend on whether you can demonstrate that the demolition was intended as part of the redevelopment rather than an unrelated operation. Anything you can supply to prove that will help. Alternatively, you only need to dig a foundation trench on site to keep the permission alive, so it may be easier to do that and record it properly.
  23. 1 point
    If it helps, as an LPA planner who works in enforcement I would advise you that if you stray from your approved plans in any way then you are exposing yourself to risk. Even if the chances are that nothing ever comes from it, you need to be aware that the risk exists. There are very few projects of any type which don't evolve at all between the planning application stage and finishing on site, and that's the simple reality. At the same time, the value of putting a set of drawings in when seeking permission is reduced if we don't then stick to those plans when we build, increasingly so the greater the differences between what we build and what we asked for permission to build. The idea that you should sweep all the minor changes up into one accurate plan is correct, but as best you can you should do that before you build, just in case the Council don't approve those changes.
  24. 1 point
    Are you or anyone you know a member in Costco? they do a twin pack of 3.6m x 4.8m heavy duty tarps. They're definitely not the cheap rubbish that a lot of sellers say are heavy duty and IIRC around £20
  25. 1 point
    I've bought various tarps from these people - https://www.tarpaulinsdirect.co.uk/tarpaulins/tarpaulins/supergrade-tarpaulin Their 'supergrade' tarps are quite serious - I've got a couple that are holding up well after a few years of heavy use. The budget ones are a bit flimsy but cheap. There are various options in between.
  26. 1 point
    The report doubts (though not tested) the effectiveness of recirculating cooker hoods and adds they are unsuitable for gas cookers. With this in mind is there a product that effectively seals a genuine exhausting cooker hood when the fan is off?
  27. 1 point
    As I understand it, the old "rule of thumb" that you must not have too steep a gradient on a foul drain has now been superseded, as it's been proven that there is no maximum gradient for foul drains, and I can't find out where the idea that there should be ever came from. Certainly it always used to be the case that people believed that there were problems with foul drains that were too steep a gradient, and many years ago I remember being told that this was because the liquid content would travel faster than the solids, leaving them behind. Apparently that isn't true, so now there's no need for back drops, or any of the other ways to get around having too steep a gradient on a foul drain, and you can have one as steep as you like. I suspect that a part of this is because we now use very smooth plastic foul drains, with very few joints and what joints there are being very smooth. I can't find proof of this, but the regs now allow you to have a foul drain as steep as you like, which makes life a fair bit easier in some cases.
  28. 1 point
    I did a lot of brickwork in the early 90s aerated blocks were the big thing I have seen whole houses built with them, but 20 years later we noticed lots of failures hairline cracking everywhere, i just don’t like them, go and buy one and take it home chuck it about for a bit, then decide if you want your house sitting on it for 100 years. I think the thing with beam and block is a higher loading on the footing wall as opposed to a slab on ground type floor. The blocks i have brought are the ones @Declan52 pointed out from Stowell Concrete. They are on site and I like what I see, but the price was a bit sharp.
  29. 1 point
    The position of all our internal walls, kitchen units, kitchen island, ground floor WC, utility room units etc were all accurately spray paint marked on the insulation under our slab before the UFH pipe was laid, so we could be certain that we had no pipes underneath anywhere where we might later need to drill any holes. Our pipes are also towards the top of the slab; the reinforcing fabric is in the centre of the 100mm thick slab and the 16mm pipes are cable tied to the top of this, to get them closer to the upper surface. Concrete has a reasonably good thermal conductivity, but even so I'd want the pipes nearer the top surface than the bottom. There will always be a thermal gradient inside the slab, and even though there is insulation underneath it I'd still prefer the thermal path to the upper surface to be as short as possible.
  30. 1 point
    Very good point, The pipes actually go around the trap itself but I agree it needs to be kept well away from the trap or well insulated.
  31. 1 point
    the problem is around here there is SOOO much building going on ..its unreal, i have heard mention of 650-700 per thousand ! ... its like Auf Wiedersein pet all over again LOL Not wanting to drift too far off topic though .....but i just had a little suprise. I went tout to site, before they tidied for the day and I was looking for where the "padstones"? are going ...these are under the beams to support the BIG wooden posts that basically hold the house up. Now on the plans they look quite substantial ...sort of 500x500 set on the concrete footing But i asked the lads what were those trench blocks (singles) underneath the beam ...and they said thats pad-stones where the FEET of the timber-frame go/rest Am i being anal here or are they a little "under-engineered" ..I mean these trench blocks are really crumbly too
  32. 1 point
    Another little gem for you. I'd never fit the frame on rubber as it may promote movement. The frame needs to be in rock solid, so I would say that was a bum steer afaic. Acoustic insulation, lots of it, in the ceiling void below will deal with 'noise', but TBH the better made stuff is pretty quiet, and I've fitted scores of them. Some frames com with an acoustic gasket that goes between the pan and the tiled wall, but I bin them as they do very little for noise and stop you getting the pan bonded back to the tiles. If you don't routinely climb a step ladder and pee into the middle of the water then noise relative to the toilet is not a cause of concern, just use the acoustic insulation all round / below and you'll be fine.
  33. 1 point
    I don't have a hour to lose on marketing drivvle, but good that the vid covered some basics for you. I've been fitting 'continental' stuff for decades and no complaints yet. Purchasing through the likes of Megabad sees lots of nice Hans Grohe / Grohe / Duravit / Geberit stuff in your bathroom for not much money. Ebay can turn up some bargains too, so up to you what you want to achieve TBH.
  34. 1 point
    Overpriced and not the best quality.... They have essentially copied (like everyone) the classic Geberit systems that have been around for decades on the continent. If you shop around you can get the Geberit systems cheaper than Abacus and spares are readily available - I think Abacus spares are only available from certain suppliers. I looked at their manifold plumbing system and I’m pretty sure it’s rebadged Emmeti which is a very good Italian manufacturer but can be had for 50% of the price.
  35. 1 point
    UFH is a budget option if you have the planning and foresight to put the pipes in the slab. Manifolds are expensive, controls don’t need to be. There is nothing wrong with running everything as a single zone and just balancing the flows to equalise the temperature. The issue may be an over zealous BCO who wants “zoned controls” although how you advise them that there is no heating in the upstairs “zone” is beyond me ... After having worked on one of the most complex systems I’ve seen (thanks @newhome...) that has 4 manifolds, 4 controllers, 14 zones and 15 programmable stats, the simplicity of a single zone and a constant flow is compelling. Furthermore if you have MVHR, you will need to be cautious that you are not really “not heating” a zone as you will be creating airflow between rooms constantly.
  36. 1 point
    Thanks @JSHarris i have been chatting with @recoveringacademic Regarding this just trying to get a lot of quotes in to try and evaluate between traditional pile and beam, and fully insulated slab with some sort of ground improvement underneath.
  37. 1 point
    I did my own and it's pretty straightforward although fairly inaccurate I think. It gives an interesting insight into the system if you do your own. This might help:
  38. 1 point
    Our builders put the stud up as soon as possible, UFH, screed, everything else went in afterwards. This allowed first fix to take place for all trades, electrical, plumbing, MVHR (me), it was easy for people to visualise where they were and what need to go where. I big empty room may be tempting but where exactly is the drop for teh sockets/light switches, how far in from the wall is that vent terminal.....
  39. 1 point
    Hi, I am fitting all the internals walls, including load bearing to the slab before I fit 150mm Celotex, UFH and screed. Again on the first floor walls up before UFH, etc. Will send a more relevant photo tomorrow. You can just see some internal walls at the back behind mvhr.
  40. 1 point
    Thanks guys. You are just juggling so many balls in the air during design and construction that you are bound to drop one or two. In this case we used 110mm pipe foulwater pipe as an access path from the service cupboard out beyond the slab. I mistake that I made was using a normal 87½° bend to bring it up into the service cupboard instead of a Drainage 87.5° Rest Bend, or even a 45° and cutting the stub off at an angle. The normal bend has a radius at centre of around 110mm and 160 at the outer curve. This was enough to get a 25mm MDPE DCW feed up the other access pipe. It's really touch and go as to whether installing an ASHP will be cost effective, and there's no urgency. I was going to wait until autumn when I've seen how the house performs during both winter and summer before making the call. The issue that we now face if that Jan is now in JFDI mode and wants to get all of the outside paving done by a local contractor including paving over the run where we'd need to bury the pipe. It's just not worth having to dig up a trench across the new paving, so I guess that the sensible thing to do now is to fork out the £500 or so for the proper insulated pipe and get our paving guy lay it under the paving whether we end up using it or not. Time get the 9" angle grinder out. I've got to clear the concrete perimeter up the pipe -- yes, I know that I should have left a length of ESP along the trench line and had the concrete about 25mm depth over it, but again -- a Tardis moment. PS. Concrete trenching all done and outside of access pipe exposed. A combination of a 9" Angle grinder with diamond disc and a decent SDS drill to put "stamp tear perforations" across the bit wanted to chop out made fairly easy work of it. As Jan pointed out, the reason for our JDFI (army acronym -- Just F***ing Do It) mode is that we want our VAT back as the paving plan was part of our landscaping and implementing is a planning condition so the work is zero VAT rated if we do it before sign-off.
  41. 1 point
    I might need to push the limits of English regulations governing moving into my forthcoming self build project ahead of final building control sign off. Reading up before starting this thread I now understand: The property must have a functioning toilet and kitchen. There is no formal validation required to move in unlike Scotland's temporary residence permit process. I should notify the Council that my new build propety is occupied for local tax reasons. If I moved in without notification the council will likely discover the situation and issue a back dated council tax demand. Have other forumites encountered where the boundary of tolerance is for early occupation? Here is my hypothetical test case. Detached two floor brick & block property with established access to public road via rear site lane. Weather tight shell with mains water, electricity and sewer connected. No gas but heating provided via sealed external air supplied wood burner. Hot water tank plus plumbing to toilet and kitchen. Usable kitchen fully plastered. Toilet including washhand basin and door. Door to kitchen and all smoke alarms wired in. Staircase with balustrade fitted. Upper floor ceiling plasterboard up and 50% of roof space planned insulation just to rafter height. Wall cavity already insulated with 100mm of rockwool. Most floors screeded. Most walls with exposed inner blocks i.e not yet dry lined. Most upper floor stud walls incomplete. My hunch is that the English authorities take a light-touch approach because the system is self regulating i.e. Councils want tax income asap and self builders want their VAT refund sooner rather than later. At this point I am wondering what BC criteria might trigger some form of enforcement notice to improve the property or cease habitation.
  42. 1 point
    @Visti A couple of points: - in the situation you’ve described s/c screed is normally a minimum depth of 50mm so you’d need that much over the top of the pipes. - check that the beams of your beam & block floor aren’t pre-cambered. If they are then this will affect your set-out and screed thickness calculations. - you’ve said that you’ll be power floating the sand cement screed but I didn’t know you could do this. I’ve only ever seen concrete floors being power floated.
  43. 1 point
    - here are several possible options foamglas - https://uk.foamglas.com/en-gb/applications/foamglas-perinsul marmox thermoblock - http://www.marmox.co.uk/products/thermoblock purenit - http://en.puren.com/fileadmin/user_upload/products/industrie/purenit/en/Purenit_ENGLISCH_2016_SCREEN.pdf compacfoam - http://www.compacfoam.com/26-compressive-strength.html - none are exactly cheap though.
  44. 1 point
    Companies that make automatic gates sell inductive loop detectors... https://www.theelectricgateshop.co.uk/Vehicle-Inductive-Loop-Presence-Detector http://easygates.co.uk/loop-detectors.asp Cheaper one via Amazon.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sensors-Traffic-Inductive-Vehicle-Detector/dp/B0190JJU0C But just one three star review (due to slow delivery).
  45. 1 point
    I did all the first fix plumbing in Hep20, and I've never done any plumbing before. We have a manifold system and it really is pretty easy. Watch a few of the videos and mine this site. Lots of information. I think the trickiest part was arranging the runs in the ceiling void. As we have four bathroom/en suites and single pipes to each fitting I tried to avoid tangling the pipes and they need supporting properly at regular intervals. Also if you have posi joists the metal edges can be quite sharp so need to take care when pulling the pipe through. Our ceiling above the manifolds looked like Clapham Junction!
  46. 1 point
    Hi, We also found there was initially zero mobile signal inside the house - despite having good signal outside. I always assumed it was as a result of using a metal lath as part of the wall build up (under lime render) - however it could be insulation as others suggested. We bought a mobile repeater from these people - https://www.mobilerepeater.co.uk/ . It has an antennae on the outside of the house which connects to a box inside the house which rebroadcasts the signal. We bought an entry level one - which worked, but didn't give good signal throughout the house - so we then bought a much more powerful version, and its been fine since. It seems like this problem is very common in modern houses. We should either : work out what the real causes are and advise people how to avoid the problem, or accept its inevitable but give new builders clear advice to expect it and how to counter with repeaters. Nowadays having good mobile signal inside your house isnt just a nice-to-have, its considered a basic human right by many :). - reddal
  47. 1 point
    Hi all, I've nearly finished building the block walls of a small outbuilding, overall 2.5x4m, with 2.5x2m in block then it will have a timber lean-to 2.5x2m to extend it to 4m wide. I'll be slate roofing all of this, and building the timber walls of 47x100mm timber, onto a block plinth already down . I already have the original clay ridge tiles from demolishing a few old farm buildings around, and intend to use mortar on the verges. Slate hooks will be used to match our barn roof. I've read a few guides and threads on here and now have a shopping list which hopefully will have everything I need. Let me know if there's anything I've missed or better (cheaper?) places to buy anything? The whole list is from Roofing Superstore right now, with prices inc VAT. So, onto the list:- 280 Spanish Lugo Slates 500x250mm @ £1.32/slate 100mm Slate Hooks Box of 500 @ £43.19 100 x 30mm Copper Nails ( for bottom course) 1F Bat friendly sarking 15x1m roll 1200x150mm Fibre Cement Soffit Strips/undercloaking 8 @ £5.44 Roof Batten 25x38mm @ £0.7/m 65mm Galvanised batten nails For structure of the roof and walls:- Protect TF200 breather membrane @77.30 47x100mm regularised treated C16 @ £2.68/m 50x38mm regularised treated C16 for wall battens for cladding @ £1.42/m Thanks for looking.
  48. 1 point
    Get some expanded metal mesh, either galvanised or stainless, and roll it into a ball and stuff it down the duct. Tie a bit of fence wire to the end of the pull cord before you do this, and feed it through the ball of expanded metal. This will stop rodents, yet can easily be pulled out with the draw cord attached when the need arises.
  49. 1 point
    Kay Metzeler in Chelmsford (Essex) At least, they make the grey insulation that was mentioned (as well as EPS 75, 100, 200 et.al.)
  50. 1 point
    The issue is not the current carrying capacity of the cable, if it was then 25mm2 would be fine. Rather, over that length, it's the voltage drop that will dictate the size of cable that you use. It would not surprise me in the least to find you do indeed have to use something as big as 70mm, I would need to look it up and do the calcs. The DNO use larger cables, here the main running down the road is 95mm2 which then they tap off a 25mm feed for the short tun to each property. If you get the DNO to move the supply closer to the house, the cost will be for such a large caable, and the non contestable work of them making the connections, which they will almost certainly do live. It will cost a lot more than you just buying suitably large cable. Unless of course moving it closer to the house would mean shortening the DNO's cable run? It depends where it comes from? +1 to getting a 3 phase meter fitted and running 3 phase to the house. By spreading the load over 3 phases you might be able to reduce your max demand per phase and use a smaller cable, though of course more cores in the cable. I would use SWA buried direct in the ground. Single cores in conduit is acceptable, but I am not sure I would describe an underground duct as "conduit" so I would not use singles.
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