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  1. 3 points
    Lintel schedule should be on the plans. I use Condell for them and send a list and get them all together on one order - usually get best price and merchant can’t match it. Plans get marked up and they then get sprayed with a number and the blockwork next to the opening gets the same treatment so there is no mix up as to what goes where.
  2. 3 points
    That is why I ran lots of iterations of PHPP in order to design a house that didn't need an expensive central heating system.
  3. 2 points
    Well, 13,000 bricks arrived today on an artic which refused to back into the site. Had to sort it of the road. Offload went ok with the forks with one pack a bit mangled by the hiab which let go at the back of the site. Spent the afternoon stacking bricks onto a pallet. Waved off the artic load of 7n blocks due tomorrow to the mech yard to drop off as and when - it looks like they have swallowed the cost! 20T of sand that was due tomorrow came today after I was gone - it been dropped in the right place by a miracle. Trench Blocks, cement, wall ties etc arrive tomorrow. Steel frame on my bit comes in tomorrow and brickie kicks off Tuesaday.
  4. 2 points
    sodium hypochlorite, brilliant stuff. Gets the slabs/blocks like brand new with no effort. Put on pretty strong first time and just leave it. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sodium-Hypochlorite-14-15-Patio-Cleaner-Swimming-Pool-Chlorine-10-Litres/293530139736?epid=11037962208&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item4457c27c58:g:r7cAAOSwRsJehe7e&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkvjzWOStkxwnlDuxSI1PVVu8e5rlRA4HwQngsX5udberl6rRHs%2FMOJD89a35nRa2ilDubBNc9iASqP4F72mvHidM9vQ1Z9QMtIcU0mVQP24860dJKaXYXLXtz0RIzgKnX7jBBvFfVLHlxIhGmicbtM%2BAdWsFrEoMhWY2TTrrxJzInoZPOAgHSMvWmcPU0Hi6MVTWNnbzUsgXC1FKCqyRbeeOyZ4YeGeR8M7ItR%2Fn6Jwf09Fzll8dbfe7dlOOQPCI0cT8Rm3b4astrBVCPSVF0EQoNETEtT4bX4t20JbyI00OmvyZKEcQ23YrbPTVfIY1s7q8KEyKqpENP7ezld99QZGO0xwxa0PjqLuJfLZjkQxPs6p0IDI3V5gy%2FjQ97IpDuMhSS46D9%2BlbSe2wvaEixTR0h1S2e11sRco4pvicx5KM2aEmxl9VRfD90V%2BJFNg0C2bJyFBiR%2BNY8dWwilDp42ce9FMEnu%2B0gD7a0FwV0YobiEO88i0ZKit6EpfktrHxp5YXpT03vw%2BG5FuxJbarkoAOAQOcbEMmLKIbA5bYVT9WU0cNW1gkPUqqrjWKI8u%2BGxM56%2BmVfY9nN0U6XEw%2BwIXIFA6m7IwsoZvAVtb%2BP2KzfjZNTFKa1SrBlIC6PhDBBvPZmPNfQW1DbrL9ILqIJLDsI00b%2FTuxwhahwfG26%2Bspi0RwibHrWWPEojUiBnytz431rxp1KAO8zz4IQGatonNnel0vSbCtBJ5ejGPByxL1c3t47PfA8Vl8I9%2FmDuCk6Xiu5XkJhL07ANxOk2EfDUQ%3D%3D|cksum%3A29353013973641e3d213656a429db185ab70e2c2cacc|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2334524
  5. 2 points
    Yes, concrete is inherently pretty waterproof and whatever add-mix is introduced just makes it more so. However shuttered concrete structures are not poured in one go and it's at the interfaces of cast sections that leaks occur and this is where the WPC systems really add value Our contractor's formwork made provision for an inch wide & deep channel on the top of the slab kicker and on sides of each vertical section. These channels were then scrubbed clean of laitance with wire brushes and dried with blowtorches (we were doing this in September, so was occasionally damp). Into the clean dry channel went Sika waterbar, applied with Sika mastic in advance of the next pour. For penetrations, plastic sleeves of a larger diameter of the service were cast into the concrete, each with two rings of water bar applied. When we ran the services later, the gap between pipe and sleeve was filled with a non setting waterproof compound from Newton. Finally mechanical expanding rubber bungs were used to seal all of the bracing holes and then sealed with waterproof cement. Everything was photographed and sent daily to Sika and the rep came to site a few times to check progress. THAT is what makes it properly waterproof and costs the time and money. If you're investing in internal membrane then go for it and get a good warrantied job done and you should be fine.
  6. 2 points
    Another vote from personal experience for Zinser. But, I'm thinking about changing: why....? Here's an expert on the subject - he does much of his work in MDF. And here's the playlist which will give you a really good insight into the hiccups that can occur with things like raised grain and so on. (water-based paint sometimes raises the grain on MDF - just needs a bit of sanding to rectify, that's all.). For another perspective, Alistair Johnson takes you through the paints he uses on built-in furniture (often MDF) and why. Very detailed (order numbers and so on) Ian
  7. 2 points
    FYI I’ve ordered the handless Luca for our kitchen combined with their quartz worktops, then their cento range for our utility room, using ikea laminate worktops in there. The cheaper cento range I thought was excellent quality for the price TBH and we were borderline as to whether to have it in main kitchen, but we really fancied handleless. Our last DIY kitchen was shaker style which proved to be a dust magnet. Don’t forget all their carcasses and internal fitting are the same High quality.
  8. 2 points
    https://www.jtmplumbing.co.uk/search/manifold#sort9 JTM offer a good variety keenly priced!
  9. 2 points
    I think there's been a misunderstanding along the way somewhere. A new pump (or radiator, or any other invasive bit of work) could indeed result in pressure loss for a period whilst you bleed out any air that was inevitably introduced (from the work itself and the fresh water added afterwards). However, a new pump would *not* cause the PRV to pass water. That is, or represents the existence of, a fault and so I would be getting the installers (of the system) to come and take a look at that.
  10. 2 points
    For peace of mind I would stick with options 1 or 2 as they are above board. Asking for future dated invoices is asking for trouble. HMRC have been known to use Google Maps satellite and street view to catch people out (we have evidence of this in an appeal that went to the tribunal). You are also asking your builder to do something illegal. What date do you ask them to put on the invoices? It could take 2 years to get full planning, and that’s if you get it at all. Your builder (if he’s doing supply and fit or labour only) will need to zero rate his invoices which he can’t if you don’t have the correct permissions for zero rating. You can only reclaim the vat on materials and there isn’t a chance in hell that you’ll get a builders merchant or similar to future date invoices.
  11. 2 points
    Obviously none of this constitutes advice, but as I have some history working in the tax practice of a large professional services firm many years ago and having sat on on a local planning committee, I'd hazard a guess you'll need to tread carefully on all counts as you're bordering on some questionable activities here, especially by asking your builders to post date invoices in order to pretend you're not building when you are. With respect to the idea of building one structure and step by step changing use, the planning committee I sat on were pretty aware of this approach and certain schemes were denied due to this approach being fairly obvious as a strategy from the outset. My view is that if you want to avoid the VAT and prevent sleepless nights and potentially more, you need to get yourself a proper tax specialist to advise, maybe even a good planning consultant. I do suspect, however, that the answer may be simpler than it seems at the moment as often trying to circumvent rules and practise becomes harder and more complicated than jumping through the standard regulatory hoops in the first place.
  12. 2 points
    Kids want to decorate it, bit rubbish for young ens with covid! I have the obligatory tony tray in place around the joists so I intend to tape the vcl to this and to the floors. As you say, where it meets a stud wall that has osb racking I will tape it to that, on the other side I will run it into the stud and tape to the other side of the osb and around any noggins. A fiddly pita but belts and braces. That will leave the only moisture pathway as the edge of the 9mm osb as far as I can see🤷‍♂️ As far as diminishing returns, I get what you mean, what I'm doing won't be for everyone. At the minute these additional bits haven't interfered with the flow of things as the missus has dealt with them whilst I've been busy on other stuff such as soakaway and foul drains. Outside stuff is done for this year now, more to do next summer but they are cosmetic jobs rather than critical ones. Its all hands to the pump inside now.
  13. 2 points
    You are going to be a busy boy. I suggest the extra Shredded Wheat is in order.
  14. 2 points
    Exactly that, I’ve left a void to have soil pipes hidden and stub stack, so toilet will sit in front of this false wall, so if I can stick the cistern in the void then I should be able to save 200mm, which is good here as it’s going to be the toilet that is for disabled access 🤦🏻‍♂️🤷‍♂️
  15. 2 points
    I would recommend engaging a qualified electrical engineer/electrician that can review this installation with all the actual detailed data. Given the range of cable sizes and potential costs, it is worth spending a little money to reach the optimum size, underwritten by a qualified electrical engineer/electrician. As usual, everybody is trying to help and giving an honest opinion but none of these opinions may be relied on because they do not have the actual data to work with.
  16. 2 points
    Notes of an update, which perhaps would benefit from an article of its own. Before: After: 1 - Grabrails The older person for whom the room was adapted has spent a couple of weeks mainly in a wheelchair, following a slip off the settee (note to self: investigate a custom cushion with non slip fabric for the settee). This slip was caused by weakness following sickness for a small number of days, which caused some weightloss - only 2-3kg , but significant for someone weighing around 43-45kg. Recovering more normal energy intake will help that over several weeks. A couple of months in we have made adjustments to some elements that had been left in until we had decided what to do. We have fitted trombone-Hitler grabrails as per the photo below. I have no idea what the real name is of the piece of kit. On these grabrails we have fitted 2 types bought from Screwfix, Croydex have not been very impressive in this situation, Nymex have been. Croydex have more play at the hinges, whilst Nymex have rubber bushes at the hinge to hold the rail steadier. The extra row of holes is where we got it slightly wrong with the stainless steel grab rail. ( * The action is like a fascist salute, and it looks like a trombone; it seems highly appropriate to remember an evil Dictator in the name of a piece of kit to benefit people he wanted to kill, in the spirit of The Producers.) 2 - Radiator Width We have also narrowed the radiator, as the previous one is exactly the same width as the wheelchair usually used in the shower room, which has the effect of preventing the wheelchair backing against the wall by about 50mm. That may seem like a detail, however gaining an extra inch makes the transfer if the user wishes to do it sideways (rather than face on) feel more comfortable. That is an example of how tiny details can make a difference. 3 - Squeezable Wheelchair Another detail is that the wheelchair used for this bathroom is a folding wheelchair, and the width can therefore "squeeze in" by about 2cm, which makes it just fit between the loo and the shower, and also slightly wedge itself in, which also helps. I admit that that was not planned. 4 - Turning Space Remarkably there is also room to turn the wheelchair in the alcove by the shower, though this is miles from meeting regs for a turning spot. None of these details would work for a larger or taller man, but in these circumstances they do - a strategy of "marginal gains". 5 - Wheelchair Accessible Shower I also have a plan for making the shower wheelchair accessible should that prove necessary, which simply involves removing the end screen (about 4 screws at the wall end, the block at the top, and a Stanley knife cut along the silicone bead at the bottom), plus raising the floor by 125mm with a tightly fitting but non screwed stud frame, and a ramp from the door, which would then be topped with ply and tiled or covered with vinyl. This can then be removed to do a full restoration later. 6 - Individual Adaptations It is worth noting that some of the above is only possible for the particular small individual. If mum were a rugby player we would be whistling in the wind, and would have had to go with a full wetroom.
  17. 1 point
    I have written a number of articles about adapting a house to be more suitable for use by people who are frail, older or disabled. This is a list so that anyone interested (or not interested) can find them slightly more easily. Converting a Downstairs Bathroom into an Accessible Shower Room Cost for this was just over £2k, including about £1k for the Fitter Labour and £250 for a shower seat and grab rails etc. A full replacement would have cost about £2500, with perhaps £1250-£1500 of materials. For a DIY version it would have cost £1200-£1500. A detailed set of 6 articles about my downstairs bathroom being made into a shower room: Accessible Ablutions - Strip OUt Accessible Ablutions 2 - Ducts for the Future Accessible Ablutions 3 - Half Way Photos Accessible Ablutions 4 - Finished Photos Accessible Ablutions 5 - 3d Printing Accessible Ablutions 6 - Costs and Components Project Discussion thread: Recommendations for Bathrooms for Elderly / Disabled A forum post where I reflect a little after some time of using the new shower room. Adding a Bath to the a large upstairs shower room Before and after articles with 3-d model, finished video, and debate leading to design changes: Bathroom Refurbishment Project (1) - Comments Please Bathroom Refurbishment Project (2) - Proposed Design Bathroom Refurbishment Project Finished More will be added as and when. The next projects are a further bathroom refurbishment upstairs and an accessibility ramp on the front path.
  18. 1 point
    Erm...you WON'T see them is the idea! 😂
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    +1 fir slate scratching badly, I went to a reclamation yard and got two pieces of flagstone, cut them with an angle grinder, voi
  21. 1 point
    Whole thread running about it here.
  22. 1 point
    I don't think there is anything I haven't haggled over, bribed tradesmen (I make good cakes), complained, moaned, cried, begged and pleaded, presented price matches just to get some discount or better prices. Our building bill is one thing we can't control (although we have had some success) but anything else I've done pretty well on. I'm a good judge of knowing which approach works best! Our bathroom shower cladding for three showers was close to £2k and an afternoon or haggling and I almost halved our quote.
  23. 1 point
    thanks. I've read Brinkley's HBB a few times and also Tim Pullen's Sustainable building bible for the green side. both were really good and I found them very useful. I've just been wondering if it would be worth getting another perspective on some more of the technical side of things but, tbh, this forum is giving me most of what I need now.
  24. 1 point
    The David Snell book covers all aspects of a self build from sourcing a plot onwards but doesn't specialise in any particular type of build. The Green Building Bible covers all aspects of low energy type builds. The Green Self Build Book covers the same area as GBB but in less detail and it also covers the Segal Build Method and gives examples of individual builds. Some books provide inspiration rather than technical knowledge but for me those three were the most useful.
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
    You could do that, but bear in mind that the longer the sample period the bigger the jump is expected to be and so it makes it easier to detect and easier to avoid false positives. If your window is small the threshold would likely have to reduce and you may find it triggers when it shouldn't. As @SteamyTeasaid trial and error will guide it well, and to be honest I only went with 5 minutes because that's how regularly the script wakes up to take temperature measurements for plotting so I just piggybacked on the back that. That said, I do find a shower gives a 5-10% rise in that timeframe and so it stands out from the noise (natural variations) quite well.
  27. 1 point
    If a Hep20 one fits, that's what @pocster wants to use isn't it?
  28. 1 point
    And I will bet a standard tap connector will be too fat to go down the tube hence it will need the special one that should have come with the kit.
  29. 1 point
    The mantra here (and the same applies to your garden room) is you only buy insulation once, fuel (electricity) you keep on buying and it’s price will not go down, I,m with @Nickfromwales above, get it built properly and your heating/cooling Spend will be minimal.
  30. 1 point
    Hot manifold adjacent to the water heater is best practice, and implementation of an HRC ( hot return circuit ) is always gauged on the dwelling. It depends on how far away your basin and sink taps are from the manifold tbh. You could shift the hpt manifold to a strategic centralised location and just have the ( HRC ) running between the UVC and the manifold and then leave as is.. Two current jobs for eg's; HRC to hot manifold at the hot water device, kitchen sink as last point of draw off on the manifold to promote flow across the whole manifold ( pre-heat ), HRC pump only pulling back from the kitchen sink therefore the whole hot manifold is warmed routinely hugely reducing waiting times at the other reasonably close outlets. Timer to be fitted for the HRC pump so that operation is in line with activity / occupancy.. HRC to hot manifold at the hot water device, HRC pump pulling back from the 2 upstairs bathrooms ( wash hand basins only ), manifold 'warmed' / 'pre-heated' as above, micro-PIR's to be fitted under each of the 2 wall-hung vanity units to trigger the HRC pump. Same PIR's to be used to also bring on ( automatically ) the night-time 'pee lights' under the vanity. Manual lighting circuit will be set to bring pee & other low-level lights on constantly for chilling in the bath ( so no overhead spots need to be on, and no disco lights from the PIR ). Timer to isolate pee lights during daylight hours if necessary. All depends on the layout of the house, so if you add distances to the basins / sinks from the UVC I can recommend something for you.
  31. 1 point
    @joe90 taken Most of a week this bloomin Boxing.. thanks for the help, sketches joe
  32. 1 point
    For anyone who may come across this topic while searching for information on how to open or construct up a shallow well, the answers are contained in the following (absolutely excellent) book: Hand Dug Wells - and their construction, by S.B. Watt and W.E. Wood, ITDG Publishing. Some of the content from this book is summarised here: http://www.clean-water-for-laymen.com/spring-development.html What I would also recommend is NOT to buy the book: Choosing Ecological Water Supply and Treatment by Judith Thornton. It is very weak on practical information (and the author overuses the word 'whilst').
  33. 1 point
    You can create and save an application for upto 3 months before submitting. So you might get round it that way. probably depends if they accept the commissioning date . They were quite helpful when I rang them for advice though.
  34. 1 point
    Tell us please what's immediately above stair No. 1. I ask because if it's a corridor maybe that can be nudged : if its a room, then maybe a cuboid shape can be built into the room to accomodate the stairway height clearance. We put a bed on top of such a 'bodge'. Kids loved it. If on the other hand it's a load of plumbing or a window, then ..... 😕 PS reading Dave's reply, I think I may have misunderstood .... apologies if I have. I cant see why stair 3 is an issue ... it seems like there's plenty of clearance. Cheap glasses?
  35. 1 point
    Major benefit which you are forgetting @SuperJohnG is elimination of joints within the structure of the building. Ever piece of pipe is a full run with only joints at either end. Also whatever the technical term is but I can flush loo and it doesn't affect shower when running.
  36. 1 point
    Phone your local SEPA office ? The local offices have direct phone numbers listed on the SEPA website
  37. 1 point
    Your most efficient way regarding CGT would be to live in the bungalow Build the house Sell the bungalow and move into the house Six months down the line you can sell the house if you wanted to
  38. 1 point
    If it were me (again) and your skirting is big enough or your pipes low enough I would do this....
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    Don’t talk to me about fecking planners!!!!
  41. 1 point
    This site is really useful as it allows you to see the colours in not just RAL but RGB, Hex and CMYK https://www.visual-graphics.de/en/customer-care/ral-classic-colours/
  42. 1 point
    BUT can it get you a beer from the fridge.
  43. 1 point
    Exactly what we've used, both on top of the retaining wall and as 1.8m high fencing around the garden. The flexibility to make it fit with the space is the really big advantage, as was the fact that I found that it was possible to make a curved fence, by partly sawing through the rear of the trapezoidal (rather than triangular) arris rails, squirting glue in the saw cuts and then bending the rails to the required curve before the glue cures. The result is a fence that follows the curve of the low wall at the top of our drive.
  44. 1 point
    Has anyone installed and is using a Mixergy tank? @Robert Clark what did you do in the end? We are very keen to avoid a standard UVC as we won't have a gas supply and beleive that load-shifting DHW electricity demand makes a ton of sense in both winter (from cheap nightime tarriff) but also in the summer (from free PV during the middle of the day). My understanding is that with a standad UVC this is a major challenge without reheating water in the tank as you use it, unless you want lukewarm showers. Using Sunamp heat batteries is a great way to achieve i) load-shifting ii) partial charging iii) low heat-loss and all nice and compart but we've been advised that in order to get a very good flow rate and >300L capacity we'd be looking at 2 x UniQ9, and that's where Sunamp becomes less interesting because we'd be looking at almost £5000! It's clear that Mixergy is not as compact as a Sunamp (not a major issue for us), and will never be able to compete on heat-loss, but it does support load-shiting and partial charging and costs less that a 1/3 of the price of 2 x UniQ9. So, I'm really wondering if it makes any sense an extra £3,000 on Sunamps. (I know some people will mention the G3 annual service but in reality very few people pay yearly for this service unless pherhaphs they are landlords). Mixergy shared some real-world data from current installs that shows how a tank with 25% "charge", still has 58C temperature at the top, while bottom is at 12C, so it's definitly more than just marketing and an app. Also, looks like it potentially has better control system than Sunamp with option to use their app or integrated directly via modbus. Thoughts?
  45. 1 point
    Oh yea, been there done that. Make sure you avoid all bitumen based products as well im not telling you how I know but it cost me two days of hard labour and made a bloody mess.
  46. 1 point
    Welcome. We're friendly because most of the stuff we deal with is high-stakes : no matter whether we're spending £1000 or £100,000 - the chances of getting it 'wrong ' in some way is vastly reduced by being open and appropriately honest about our successes and failures. There's heaps of both for you to feast on here. You talked about briefing an architect. A common topic of discussion. Have a read of this .....
  47. 1 point
    I made a couple of inverted T metal legs, added a board and pinned it to the insulation. Elbows on the pipe too. When it comes to building the wall I'll cut the legs off flush with the floor, they're positioned to be hidden/under the wall.
  48. 1 point
    Feeling pretty pleased with myself as I have been dreading making this door. video-1558292016.mp4
  49. 1 point
    Hello fellow self-builders! Having lived in the South East (nr Reading) for over 30 years in various cookie-cutter boxes of varying quality, after a 2 year hunt we have found a building plot on which we are going to build what we intend to be our "forever house". We are currently in the purchase of the land stage, so fingers are still crossed as we wait for all the legal and financial stuff to conclude, hopefully next month. The plot comes with OPP for an eco-designed house (architects were ARCO2 in Bodmin) which we intend to make minor tweaks to as we apply for DPP and Building Regs approval to proceed. Our intention is to perform as much of the labouring ourselves, both being practical minded, in order to be able to spend more on the materials. Personally, when younger, I helped my parents build a major extension to one property and renovate two others, I have renovated and rebuilt two classic cars, and undertaken re-wiring and re-plumbing in our current property - I'm reasonably confident in doing the work. On the Quality/Time/Cost triad, Time is the one that will be most variable :-) I'll probably be using these forums to seek input on the steps and order of tasks for project planning purposes (if anyone has a good starting template I would be very interested!), to discuss various material choices (e.g. raft v strip foundation, ICF v timber frame etc.), and delve into the variety of construction experience that exists here, so on the basis that there are no stupid questions ..... :-) Cheers Stuart
  50. 1 point
    Yes, in fact I built several, all different iterations of the design! The main reason for that one was to easily show people how the house would look in it's setting. I found that a lot of people, particularly some of the neighbours and most of the Parish Council planning committee, were unable to visualise what something would look like from just 2D plans. Because one of the people that was unable to imagine what spaces would be like from plans was my other half, I also made this model, with a lift off roof and first floor, so she could see the scale of the internal rooms. I made this model to a larger scale, 1:50, simply because you can buy cheap plastic models of people at 1:50 that are intended for railway modellers, so I could add people inside the house to get a better idea of the true scale.
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