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  1. 9 points
    To all those kind people who read my panicked ramblings and gave me good advice about my garage-job-gone-wrong, after 3 months of mediation an agreement was reached yesterday, confidential but I can say I am happy! I had so much help & advice from this forum and putting it all together I could see the big picture and cut through the confusion Thank you all and best wishes with your projects
  2. 6 points
    Here goes the next stage. Building the reinforced concrete ring beam. The plan is to build the steel cages off site in a shed due to awful weather, then deliver to the site. Lots of things arriving on site! The yellow plastic takes the place of traditional shuttering. Apparently this is faster and therefore cheaper. This will help pay for the huge amount of claymaster I need. It's still a little wet out here so digging might get interesting. We're armed with pumps and a couple of diggers so what could possibly go wrong? It took a couple of hours on Monday morning to measure out the site accurately, then the team got on with digging and cutting the piles to the right height. The cages started to arrive on Tuesday and installation was swift. The kitchen and family room cages nearly complete. The building inspector was happy with the progress on Wednesday so on with the show! With a bit of luck the concrete arrives on Friday. Then we can open the first of the four bottles of Cava allocated to the significant milestones.
  3. 5 points
    We’re pleased with the way the bathroom turned... still finalizing the decorations (mirrors, etc).. but it’s largely done now,
  4. 4 points
    Just to confirm on this. I spoke to HMRC some months back and explained that I was having a battery storage system installed as part of the building's systems, connected up to the PV array. HMRC confirmed that although the PV system and the battery system came from different suppliers/installers, as it was all part of the building's power system, I can claim back the VAT on the batteries.
  5. 4 points
  6. 3 points
    Can’t wait to get home from work today. The sun is shining. The roof should be dry. There’s a hole somewhere. I’m going to get home and get up on that roof with a hosepipe and find it. If it’s not in the roof surfacing then we’ll let the roof dry and hosepipe the roof light tomorrow. That’s my Friday night. Nothing I’d rather do 😂
  7. 3 points
    thinking very carefully about this, because of the confidentiality I can't quote the terms of agreement I can say that anyone considering any sort of project should never, never rely on advice on Building Regulations or Planning Permission from anyone other than the local authority, however trusted or knowledgeable, always check with the local authority yourself before committing to work then there will be no questions or arguments about who is responsible for what however, my mediation argument was restricted to the consumer law aspect, building work now falls under the 2015 Consumer Rights Act which confers on a consumer the right to rely on advice from a trader, and that if such advice causes a consumer to enter into a contract and then proves to be misleading, incomplete or plain wrong, the trader is liable to the consumer for losses as a result of such advice I certainly did not want to test that in court, and I don't know how much it was accepted by my builder, all I can say is that I am happy with the agreement! the mediator has drawn up a written agreement, when we have both signed it becomes a binding contract and I don't think my builder will go back on his agreement in principle, he genuinely is a decent, honest person, finds analytical discussion difficult, and has been badly advised if he does, you will see me back here again! 😖
  8. 3 points
    Background I've blogged and posted separately about how I currently control my Underfloor Heating (UFH) and Hot Water (HW) systems using a Raspberry Pi (RPi) computer. This takes input from some digital thermometers, and a couple of digital flow meters (mainly for flow logging) as well as Met office weather forecast data to calculate timings and to switch the power circuits for my Willis heater, the circulating pump and the supply to my two SunAmp PV units. The initial design choices in my current implementation were to minimise my own learning curve and to mitigate the development risks for me. For example, I was already one of main the developers of an ESP firmware platform, so it was just easier for me to use a couple of ESP modules to handle all of the external sensor and relay control. That being said, this latest COVID-19 outbreak underlines our need to have a practical fallback for Jan. As it happens, both my son and son-in-law work in the IT industry, and both use RPi based home automation systems in their own homes, so either could in principle take over maintenance of our RPi-based system if necessary. Even so, on reflection my system setup is more complicated than it needs to be. In particular neither Rob nor Andrew is familiar with the ESP module firmware and development system, so this subsystem is not something that I could easily hand over. Given that a single RPi could do the entire computer lot quite comfortably, I am now considering dumping the ESPs entirely and slimming down the software stack on this RPi to that only needed to run the CH and HW control. This topic discusses possible approaches to such an RPi-based control system that meets my needs but once documented could also form the basis of an implementation for others. What I am proposing is to do this in two passes: first more a review and discussion cycle, where input and comment from the likes of @Jeremy Harris, @PeterW, @Ed Davies, @MikeSharp01, @ProDave and anyone else who feels that they can make suggestions and give feedback; the second will be a set of blog posts where I write the entire system up in detail. Switching the power circuits I use Solid State Relays (SSRs) to switch the power circuits for my UFH and HW. All power SSRs pretty much all work the same way, and if you want to know more then Big Clive gives a good tear-down / explanation (here) on YouTube. The CKRD2420 modules that I use can take standard (5V) digital inputs and turn on the power side at the next AC zero-crossing (that is with a delay of up to 10 mSec) if the input goes high. These CKRD2420 modules currently retail at ~ £40 each (compared to the £5 ones that Clive reviewed), but this is the premium for a decent quality approved module from a reputable supplier, and ones that my electrician was willing to sign-of on as part of his 240V installation. The Crydom CKR24 Series Datasheet gives their operation parameters: the input side requires a 4V DC minimum on voltage at up to 12 mA to power the SSR internal opto diode, and power-side TRIACs can drive both resistive loads safely and reliably. This 4V minimum exceeds the general purpose digital outputs of 3.3V based RPis, so some form of voltage / current conditioning is needed to control these SSRs, though the input side of each SSR is already opto-isolated from any transients, it is pretty straightforward to boost each GPIO output to 5V and capable of providing a sustained 15 mA. I prefer to keep my discrete components to a minimum, so a good approach is to use a SN7407N hex buffer driver which can drive up to 6 GPIOs from a single 16-pin DIP package. Note that these buffer outputs are open collector and are driven to 0V when the input GPIO is driven low. The SSR input is connected to the buffer output and 5V, and hence the SSR is on when the GPIO is low. When the input GPIO is high, the buffer output floats and is pulled to 5V using an external 4K7 pull-up resistor on each output, giving a 5V + 5V input to the SSR, that is a 0V difference and switches it off. Note that I previously used an I²C-based port extender instead of a hex buffer driver on my ESP8266 implementation because I had less free GPIOs, however the RPi has a lot of available I/O pins so using these allows me to avoid MCP23008 I²C driver and to simplify the RPi software. One aspect that we do need to careful about is the default state of the relays at power on and before any active software control is initiated. All GPIOs are initiated as inputs, with GPIO 0-8 having pull-ups to 3V3 enabled and GPIO 9-27 pull-downs to 0V enabled. Given that we want any SSRs to default to off at power-on, we need to connect any SN7407N inputs to GPIOs 0-8. The other design issue to note here is that the power TRIACs within the SSR are not 100% efficient; they dump roughly half a percent of the switched power as waste heat, and so will generate roughly 15W of heat per SSR when powering a 3kW circuit. Any enclosure will need to operate within safe temperature tolerances at N × 15W heat output and this will require some form of heat dump design. Collecting Thermometer Readings The digital thermometers are DS18B20s. These are accurate and cheap. You can string as many as need on a one-wire bus which only uses a single GPIO. This bus is fully supported by the RPi's Linux kernel drivers, so the implementation is easy. Hall-Effect Flow Meters These have a 3-wire connector: GND, 5V VCC and 0 / 5V pulse output. Each output needs to be conditioned to be read safely on a RPi GPIO pin but a a 4.7 KΩ + 10 KΩ resistance divider does this job fine. Note is that the Hall output is again open drain. To Follow Physical packaging Circuit designs Software options: native Python vs NodeRED The underlying physics Control regimes and options Anything else that people want to discuss
  9. 3 points
    Evening all, Finally! A decent forum I can enjoy... Before the time of social media I was an avid forum goer, big on my underground electronic music. Rave scene jungliest movement forums were the only way I could network outside of the nightclubs. Photos from events would be posted up, pirate radios would hunt for talent and promoters would post up their flyers to try and gain momentum to get as many tickets sold before the night.... All seems a generational back in my day thing now but those were the best days, back then... Instagram, facebook and twitter changed the game and when we look back it was really only in the last decade that such trends have happened and what a change there has been! For the better.. imho no not really, negative feedback rather than positive criticism floats around freely... forums always felt more of a community to me, people sharing knowledge, wisdom and experiences to help learn and influence for the greater good, and from reading through the threads on the weekend it gave me a sense of those good old days before I had a career, before I had bills, kids & not enough time in the day! Gas engineer by trade (15 years), and now working as a supervisor for a housing association. I bought my first house when I was 20 and spent 8 years knocking it about thinking I would be a millionaire by the time It was done. It was pretty much done but we got bored of spending all our money at builder merchants so when the kids came along a few years back we bought a VW transporter, kitted it out and off we went, now we have Finley (1 and 3/4) & Penny (3 going on 30), an old dog named max, Lenny the tortoise. We just got married 2 weeks ago after being together for 14 years and now my new wife is telling me we need a bigger house.... She's right by the way! Great thing Is I've always wanted to build my own house I spent my childhood watching Grand Designs, bad thing is we may have to live in a caravan for awhile, lets hope the kids are buckled up because its going to be a bumpy ride but hey, what's life without a few challenges. And everybody who knows me knows I'm not the type to sit around watching Tv, always on the go like many of you are I sure. My brains constantly ticking over about the next 'big project' I'm working on, or at least working towards. To have our own self build we can all call home would be amazing and if we can make some memories building it well that's even better. Our plan is to snag the house we are living in and sell up by the end of the year, whilst this is happening we will be designing and obtaining planning for our plot, a bungalow that we bought last January for 170k at auction which is currently being rented out. It sits on some nice land about 1000 m2, a triangle shaped plot that is slightly sloping, its north facing with some potential views and is in prime close to centre of town position. It sits next to some green land giving a nice secluded feel about it and hop over the fence and you in some dense woodland. We hope to gain planning for a replacement dwelling by xmas and then move up their January ready to put a spade in the ground in April. Our hopes are to borrow £280k, that's £200k for the build, £40k to pay of the mortgage on the plot and £35k contingency. Ideally we want to build as big as possible but will be limited by budget. We need a 4 bed property with open plan living space, evening living room, multifunction room, bathroom, ensuite, d/s w.c, garage, workshop and a room to fit a small hair salon in. Using my skills I will be project managing, and carrying out as much as possible. I am seriously considering building in ICF with Nudura being the front runner, The fact I will be able to build the structure myself is a huge plus to me and potentially a great cost saver, the energy efficiency it will bring along with the soundproofing and sturdiness all sit well with us as a family. I am loving the way that the 1st fix and dry lineing can be installed and think it will make ease of a laborious job so I am looking forward to enrolling on a few courses in the next month of so, I also have a mate who started a concrete company last year and has the only pump and boom in the local area so I'm expecting some mates rates on the pour! Our wish list also includes a smart home using Loxone or Niko, high quality aluminium windows & some solar panels with an electrical battery pack system and a zinc looking roof or similar style, again it depends on cost but it would be great if it will all squeeze into 200k. One things for sure, I know we have our work cut out for 2 years but I know it will be worth every late evening, every cut and ache. Hopefully with some expert guidance from this forum we can make this dream come true and my kids can learn from their mum and dad how you build a future for your family. Thanks in advance Edd & Phillipa.
  10. 3 points
    I would extend the pipe up above the WC and fit the AAV there. There is a risk of sucking the water out of the basin trap when you flush the WC.
  11. 3 points
    An interesting video of the retrofit of a compact MVHR in a flat:
  12. 3 points
    bridles should be doubled up as well
  13. 3 points
    Or look elsewhere... I wouldn't be comfortable just changing the charging model given that this is someone who has seemingly shown little interest in offering you value for money.
  14. 3 points
    On that note, we finished all the work on the bathroom yesterday - massive clean up operation today and we've moved back into our bedroom. Will share some photos tomorrow.
  15. 3 points
    If we move away from standard brick and block construction towards panelised houses built in factories it would be easier to remove poor workmanship.
  16. 3 points
    Nice to see some media catching up and talking about it, but some holes in the report. I would make the following comments: The headline is imo misleading, as the C target is 10 years in the future and only applies to rental. Saying that 2/3 of houses fail as they do not meet a 10 or 15 years ahead future target therefore end of the world is poor. But the BBC Shared Data Unit is not the most comprehensive source of analysis (ie they leave important things out). The original background report is much better. The claim that a C is "just above average" is controversial. In fact only 25% of Owner Occupied properties are C or above. And Social Rented is substantially better, which will throw the claim off more. PRS is slightly better than OO. The Beeboids forgot to mention that of the 62% of houses below EPC Grade C, three quarters are Owner Occupied (three quarters of approx two thirds of the overall housing stock). That is the elephant in the room that needs to be slaughtered, and that imo they should be highlighting. Probably only addressable in year one or two of a Parliament for political reasons. One for this year's budgets, which need to change the agenda. I think there is some UK self-hate / self-flagellation happening. Across many even of the advanced EU countries EPCs (with all their limitations) are not even fully public data (eg Austria, Belgium, Italy, France, Germany, Finland). Meanwhile, Germany gets more than 1/3 of its energy from coal (UK: 3%). Solutions? I very much agree with Tim Forman's comments, though they look to be rather large cost numbers; I think we need to look initially for a return to pre-Green Deal volumes of retrofits. I don't think they will put it on energy prices, though imo they probably should. Ed Milliband drove up energy prices massively via his green taxes and got a hell of a lot of stick. Personally I would like to see a price ratchet as we had on petrol/diesel. More preferably a single carbon tax on everything. I remain skeptical of "can't afford it" arguments. If a quarter of us can afford £500 to £1500 a year per dog (PDSA numbers), and more of us cars, then we should be able to afford to do at least small things to our houses, and small things make a huge difference, and loft insulation is already free to the user. I've posted about Stamp Duty and Council Tax before, so I'll leave those alone, though imo it needs both as Stamp Duty only comes up when we move. Probably combined with tax relief on improvement costs or similar. The cost needs to be leveraged out of a slightly reduced value forced on the property. 1-2 years of house price increases would cover most of the basic improvement costs. Ferdinand
  17. 2 points
    I have put this thread here, as it really belongs with the CDM role / Health and Safety. Has anyone considered this? Though the numbers are small, we do have people coming on and off site - and some of us sometimes have a number of different subbies over periods of time etc. I have been consulting an expert over the gym where I own a small stake, and where the activity is as vigorous as any building site, and the points made have been: - Washing hands is still the key. Traditional soap is as good as gels etc. Having hot water is not quite as important as I thought it was. - Regularly wipe down areas touched by a number of different people - especially door handles and light switches, but also taps, electric sockets, whiteboard pens, buttons on drinks machines, handles on doors or equipment if used by different people etc. - Corona Virus lasts up to 48 hours on a surface. - Laminated signs with instructions on doors where people enter, in the washing hands / bathroom area, and on noticeboards. - Make a summary note in any Health and Safety manual / file / procedure. - Encourage wearing of gloves where possible / appropriate. (Either a gym or a building site probably have some glove--wearing anyway). - Have a supply of robust disposable gloves available, in case you need to insist. The reasons for self-builders to pay a modicum of attention seem to me to be twofold: 1 - For its own sake, to keep things rolling / be on top of things in a safe working environment for staff, and any regulators etc who visit. 2 - To have a suitable set of reasonable measures in place in case there is any attempted comeback later from any source (though it is unlikely) - the famous arse cover. Does anyone have suggestions / comments? Ferdinand
  18. 2 points
    The calculation isn't easy, given the wide variation in grid CO2 emissions from day to day and even hour to hour during the day. Probably the best way to look at it is to estimate your total household emissions and subtract the emissions saved by the PV generation, to get an idea of the true impact. I was asked to give a talk in our village hall a while ago, about our build (turned out to be surprisingly popular - standing room only). When putting together the presentation I tried hard to think of a way to enable people to visualise CO2 emissions. The best thing I could come up with was to convert emissions that were saved, both from designing a low energy house, and the saving from PV generation, into trees. A mature tree sequesters roughly 20 to 25 kg of CO2 a year, in the form of carbon locked up in the timber. The SAP calculations for our house give a CO2 "emissions" figure of -0.9 tonnes/year. This equates to the CO2 sequestration from about 40 mature trees. All those who knew our site could see that we couldn't possible fit 40 trees on it, so it was pretty clear that our house was, at least in terms of CO2 emissions, less harmful to the environment than if it was planted with mature trees.
  19. 2 points
    Sparky has been . I allowed him a whole day to install this . He took his time and made a super neat job ! . 2 CU’s and my Din box 😎
  20. 2 points
    The Apollo Gem is another one with a wireless sensor: https://www.apollosolarelectric.co.uk/products/ Has a 30m to 40m indoor wireless range, according to the spec.
  21. 2 points
    I am staggered that your electrician can't or won't do this. It is just a radial circuit from the consumer unit to the inverter, with an ac isolator switch and a generation meter. And a DC isolator switch between the inverter and the panels. If your remote meter is in a decent cubicle it could remain there, mine is about 20 metres from the house. As for the PV diverter. That will have a current clamp on one of the meter tails. Even if the meter is still in the remote cabinet, that can be fitted in the house, as long as the external meter box does not feed off to other places, just the house. If like us, the external meter box feeds to other places, then the current clamp would have to go in the outside meter box. I provisioned for that by laying a length of spare SWA telephone cable to the meter box. Before you go any further I would choose which PV diverter you are going to use. Others will have to recommend one as I made my own. You will need to register the PV with your DNO and they will need a bit of paperwork, including a schematic of the instalation.
  22. 2 points
    Really sorry to hear this, let me know if I can help out in any way. I have to take my hat off to MBC here, they were equally helpful when I had the render issue - sending Brendan to site for half a day to work with the contractor to get to the root of the issue two plus years after the house was built.
  23. 2 points
    Exactly this. Took us nearly a year from start to finish. Two rooms were affected. In our case, it was due to poor sealing between the roofing membrane and the outlets through the parapet wall. Another one had started failing when inspected, so we insisted on all five being replaced. The roofer agreed to rectify, and fixed the membrane fairly promptly. Unfortunately, they then insisted on putting the rest through their insurer (even though the total costs were less than £2k from memory), which turned into a nightmare. Their attitude was so poor that if I hadn't had several million things on my plate I'd have sued them for every incidental cost possible, but in the end I decided the stress wasn't worth it and settled for the actual paid out costs. @Weebles, feel free to PM me if you want to talk about what happened and how we handled.
  24. 2 points
    Instead of piles of dirt for collecting you could do what we had to do in London, put a couple of skips where the dirt is to go, then when the grab lorry comes get him to empty the skips, and just refill them. this solves lots of problems, it saves muck getting washed onto the highway, keeping it all tidy and neighbours a bit happier, then as you finish just get the loaded skips removed. You are probably better off getting multiple trades in to do each bit if you get one company in and your site looks like an agro job they will do one of two things, not quote or price it very high. With multiple trades the bit they will do probably won’t seem too bad so they will do it move on and be thankful that they didn’t get asked to price all of it.
  25. 2 points
    Yes i do roll it. Don't use too much glue, and wipe up any that squezes through with a damp cloth. (Have a cloth in a bucket of water.) I usually lay 3 rows at a time. I will cut, and dry lay the three rows, mark the edge with a pencil, lift the boards back towards you as a stack. Lay down the glue, using the pencil line as a guide. Picking the boards from the top of the stack, lay, roll, and wipe. The last one i did was 60sq meters including 4 door ways, and it took me 2.5 days. Have fun. Re the glue. Don't use too much. The first time i layed it, i did, and it slides around like a pig, and takes forever to dry.
  26. 2 points
    It's to allow for a 2.5° fall on the roughly horizontal bit of pipe.
  27. 2 points
    Tip No 1. Throw away the piece of junk that is the current version of the NTE5 master socket and buy the far superior older version. You won't actually achieve anything by "moving" the master socket. Just splicing on an extra bit of cable and moving the master socket will result in exactly the same length and route of cable, as leaving the master socket where it is, and just running a length of cable and fitting a slave socket where you want it. Then plug the router into the slave socket. You only need to "move" it if there is some reason why an unused socket cannot remain in it's present place. You just need 2 pair telephone cable, or 3 pair will do, and you can buy it in short lengths from most DIY shops, screwfix etc.
  28. 2 points
    I would pull down probably half of the grade two listed buildings
  29. 2 points
    Not all LED lights are dimmable. You may just have the wrong lamps in them. Or you may have the wrong sort of dimmer switch designed for filament lamps.
  30. 2 points
    It depends on your plumbing layout, but if you are having a radial type layout somewhere between the manifold and the shower. So for example if the water is coming from above in a loft space, you could put it in there.
  31. 2 points
    Sounds like a great project. Just a small note. Don’t make reference to the hair salon in the plans. If HMRC get a sniff of it being for business use they can deny your VAT reclaim. You are allowed a single home office and remain eligible. Call it a utility room or something domestic sounding.
  32. 1 point
    @Ferdinand BTW, and completely off topic, inspired by your indoor green wall idea I sowed a batch of rocket in my conservatory, it's slow going until the days get longer but it's growing! how did you get on with your idea? 🌴🌵🌾
  33. 1 point
    The build costs are entirely different for each build and it's very hard to say a budget will work for the size. However some have built for 800/m2 so it is achievable! However... my advice would be to spend a LOT of time reading and researching here and othe places to learn as much as you can and find the risks to your own individual project and finances. The more risk you can mitigate the smoother the build will go. My comments would be: 1. You seem to be doing a lot of the work yourself, if you work full time already...how will this fit in with life? Are you prepared for it to take 2-3 years to complete?. Most of us would love to build yourself and if you can do it great. But be realistic in the first instance.and plan plan plan. 2. Sizing - 200m2 seems small for the amount of things you want...these rooms are going to be very small if you dont compromise somewhere. I had planned 200 aswell and had less requirements than you...I am now at 250 not including my attached double garage... 3. To keep it cheap try ensuring the design is as simple as possible. A square box with straight walls will make it cheaper and easier here. 4. Good luck! Enjoy the process
  34. 1 point
    Those photos are bringing back all sorts of nasty memories. You have my sympathy!
  35. 1 point
    That was exactly what we had problems with. PM me if you want to discuss.
  36. 1 point
    @SuperJohnG I went with blockwork as I wanted a more substantial/solid outer skin. It's a bit of a wind trap where I am so it's just a psychological comfort thing! The blockwork will be rendered so could have been done with render carrier board.
  37. 1 point
    for a dormer, up here at least, the max you can go is removing 4 rafters. don't know how wide you can go where you are without plannning for a window but that would give a nice big window without massively compromising the roof.
  38. 1 point
    ProDave the drawing shows a 1200x900 window in the gable as does the schedule, however, a 1200 wide window won't fit in the space between a steel column holding the ridge and the roof slope. there is only enough space to fit an 850mm wide one. the kit is being stick built and sizes are as they should be apart from not being able to fit this size window where it's shown. as stated the person who did the drawings, not going to call him an architect. we did find a solution, as the window was of no use, i decided to cut it in half and make the opening 600x900, a bit narower than i'd have liked but saves the cost of a new window and wasting the old one
  39. 1 point
    Welcome! Start a build post and get your photo diary started!
  40. 1 point
    There's a thing called a "quasi easement" that is relevant here, but I cannot remember the detail. I think it has to do with intention to create an easement.
  41. 1 point
    I will do something similar to your photo, thanks. Just been out to measure, the external scaffolding pipe dimension is 48mm.
  42. 1 point
    yes. I asked on this forum. Not sure who advised me, may have been the welsh wizard but it was a long time ago,!, if I remember correctly it was said that even a toilet flushing will not completely fill a 110mm diameter pipe so a 110mm AAV is not required. In the time since my build was finished I have had no problem with “suction” even without anti vac traps.
  43. 1 point
    You're welcome, just sharing my own experience. I don't think there is a right answer here as it's a function of how tight your budget is, where your confidence level is and how experienced you are (these two do not necessarily go hand in hand ) and how much your own time costs. Some people find it reassuring, and can afford, having the architect alongside them for the whole journey while some never use one at all. Personally, I'd let the architect complete the planning process if you're already along that path and see what's coming back from the frame companies based on the initial design - that should give you the data to see where there may be duplication on the professional services or where the gaps may be. I'd also take a look at the building warrant process and see what you need above and beyond what you'd get from the frame suppliers - may help you decide if the £3500+VAT is money well spent or something you could take care of yourself.
  44. 1 point
    I ran everything (except loo) in 50mm, as advised by the welsh wizard.
  45. 1 point
    Um. These events never happen. My bath's plughole had definitely not been disconnected from the pipe since 2009 or so :-). To be fair that is not a Schrodinger - it is more like a mugging; our cat which was our cat but we did not know it yet a the cat had not moved itself in. That is more an unknown unknown. F
  46. 1 point
    That’s exactly what they do with pavement scaffolding Yellow foam cable tied Being 6”5 I always asked companies to make sure that lift are 2100 apart
  47. 1 point
    Bath 50mm, sink 32mm into the 50 is what I've done with an anti siphon trap on the sink. 32 too small for a bath I think.
  48. 1 point
    We just chuck em in a drawer.
  49. 1 point
    Yep and it works fantastically. Zero risk of it toppling out with a very simple clamp bar to the feet.
  50. 1 point
    This is another clue that the 16.5 kW figure is way too high. A £250 oil bill, according to the architects calculations, with an 80% efficient boiler, would be around 3,571 kWh for the year. Hot water will be a fair hunk of that, roughly 1,000 to 1,100 kWh per person per year, so that needs to be subtracted. For two people, that would mean that heating energy use would be around the same as ours, about 1,500 kWh/year. That doesn't stack up with a 16.5 kW heating demand, as our typical heating demand is about 300 to 400 W, and in extremely cold weather this can increase to about 1.6 kW for a short period. It sounds to me as if a decimal place may have been shifted to the right by accident.
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