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  1. 10 points
    it's been a bit quiet on our blog so I thought I should update it. While we've been waiting for the groundworks to start we've been busy getting the site ready. This has included getting the new entrance to the plot created, getting the sub-base for the driveway in place and then topping it off with a layer of 6F5 as a hardstanding for the construction vehicles (after the build I can then remove the top layer to reveal the, hopefully, still in good condition sub-base to put the final layer on top of. well that's the plan at least!) and putting up the site toilet. Obviously the last job was the most important. Our new entrance to the plot is over a culvert and as it's connecting to an adopted road it had to be done by an insured contractor and so I had to fork out the cash to get it done. but they did a very good job and we're very happy with it. the culvert in situ with enough concrete on top to take the lorries and cranes for the build a nice base layer of tarmac finished, which will see us through the build when they will come back and put a nicely finished top layer on. nice sand-bagging. 😉 once, they'd finished the entrance we moved on to the driveway and hardstanding but, first, an observation....it's funny how things don't look as big on paper as they do in real life. that's exactly the conclusion I came to after I looked at the plans and thought "that driveway isn't that big I'll just dig it out myself and save myself a fair chunk of cash" and then went on to dig it out. it was only after I'd finished the 120m2 area did I realise how big the driveway is going to be (I swear it doesn't look that big on paper!). oh well, it's done now, at least we'll have plenty of parking. maybe I can rent it out and do a 'Park and Ride' in to the local town to recoup some of the costs. 😊 a big hole dug and covered in Terram (or an equivalent to be exact) 100 tonnes of beautiful primary Type-3 granite aggregate all compacted by that beast of a roller. Don't really care what everyone else thinks but I think I did a darn good job for my first driveway sub-base. Sadly it all got covered by another layer of Terram and then a load of 6F5 got dumped on top and it now looks like a building site hardstanding area (which is what it is!). here's a photo of the lovely lady of the house helping out on the roller. it was a bit cold out that day. And finally we get to the most important job, the building of the site toilet. Friends of ours got it from a local freebie site and used it for their self-build, we then dismantled it, transported it to our site, erected it, put a new roof on it and plumbed in the toilet and sink to our existing STP. we think it's a very luxurious WC for site use. it's even got a couple of windows so you can watch the work progress while you're doing your business. and that's it for this blog post. we are extremely excited as tomorrow is the day we've been waiting for and the groundworks starts in earnest. They'll be on site to set up and start digging out the big hole for the basement as the basement contractors are due to start on the 3rd May so we should start to see some real progress now! finally!! thanks for reading. 🙂
  2. 9 points
    Building controls have issued our “Completion Notice” a big milestone for any self build and definitely called for a celebration. A big sigh of relief from both our councils building control and us.🙄 Our many thanks to all the contributors at BuildHub, we certainly could not have done it without the support of the forum members. Particularly Jeremy Harris @Jeremy Harriswho’s broad knowledge and good advice...goodness knows where he’s disappeared to but the forum is a poorer place without his input. It’s been a while since we first broke ground in January 2019 and it certainly has had it’s moments and a good few sleepless nights. There is no doubt in our minds when doing a self build that you have to be doing it for yourselves. We’ve ended up with a house that we could not have gone out and purchased and learned a whole lot on the way. Our initial vision was something small, manageable and future proofed. Hopefully we have achieved this and have added a decent quality house to the housing stock. When we started we visited the building research establishment (BRE) and looked at the Zed Factory house that was there. We decided to take a look at that route. ZED provided either a shell or turnkey solutions, both of which were within our budget. The cost per square metre in the ZED literature at BRE indicated a very competitive turnkey price in the region of £1,350 a square meter. As with all things the low price came with compromises as it was a “cookie cutter” solution and the finish was not all that we would have liked. What we have ended up with is our own vision at a comparable cost of around £1,400 a square metre built to our specification. Sounds like a great result, that is until you factor in the fact that we did the majority of the labour. It’s easy to see why the prices from ZED increased to more like £1,600 a square meter when we asked them to quote. From a design point we still need to live a full year in the house to know if we got our energy sums correct. Early indications are that we should need very minimal input in winter but may have too much solar gain in spring. Our east facing windows are great for the clear winter morning but a little too warm for April sun. In the big scheme of things it should be easily fixed by adding blinds. Our EPC rating came out as a “B” marked down from a due to our use of gas for heating and water, a bit daft given it’s the lowest CO2 emissions at 0.184kg per kwh compared to electricity which is in the 0.233kg region. It would be simpler and better just to do EPC on a kwh per square meter basis, putting the emphasis on input reduction. The MVHR is certainly helping, here's a screen shot from the duct temperatures on a frosty morning. We’ll draw our blog to a close at this point, just got to dust off our resumes and add house building to the skill set 🤣.
  3. 7 points
    ...and still working on the landscaping.
  4. 5 points
    Over the last month we've spent our time removing bits from the barn that will either be returned, replaced or disposed of depending on there condition and the LPA requirements. This means that the yard is filling up so deliveries and other storage is now being put in the fields. That's okay with a very dry April, might be more tedious if we have a very wet spell. I removed the roof from the barns where there was a low ridge height, but that also included the insulation (lucky piggies), rafters, joists, wall plates, lintels (angle iron), gutters and fascia boards. This resulted in a number of bruises from hammers, crow bars and wood. All when they moved unexpectedly, luckily being a weak woman the crowbar was not much bigger than a pencil so only gave me a small bruise. If it had been one of the big ones I would possibly have ended up in A&E. I don't think I've ever seen so many nails. Being rural we've been able to burn wormy wood and the rest I have chopped up for the wood store, the insulation has been stacked along with the roof sheets ready for the future workshops and garages. Once hubby has a dry and insulated workshop he will never come in the house 🙂 I'm also very glad of my work factory boots with steel toecaps with the number of times I've dropped things. It certainly looks very different now, lovely and light. We have left the shed at the end intact as we are going to use if for secure storage and tea room for as long as possible. Ultimately that will be our utility / plant room so we won't do anything until we have to. The back of the barn had an overhang which has been removed, this was pretty low so although it was included in the dwelling dimensions we decided not to bother as we were not allow to increase the ridge height enough to make it useful. This is where all the drainage is going to go, the internal walls have been set up to fit with the current window openings, not always central in the room, but good enough and easy and meets the LPA requirements. We do need to create one more window opening for the family bathroom. This back wall is to go up 1 block to allow for lintels, although the first window is quite small so the lintel is only the thickness of a brick so it will be pushed up so that the top of the window is as high as possible. This side of the barn is the south side, unfortunately, as it faces a 45 degree 12' bank then the end of our land so it doesn't have an exciting view. I'm planning on gabions, but at 24m long the cost might be prohibitive for now, a future project. In the meantime I'm clearing the bank of weeds, dead trees, shrubs, rubble and a number of tennis balls lost there over the years. Hubby has been working on the L part of the barn which had a cement fibre roof, which possibly contained a small amount of asbestos, and a metal frame. The roof sheets are now cleared, double wrapped and stacked ready for the company to collect. The metal frame had to be cut up in situ as it was fixed so firmly, but that is now down, cut up and gradually going to the tip. It is much easier to destroy things with crow bars, saws and grinders, when we rebuild we shall have to be much more careful. During May our plan is to start work on rebuilding the external of the ensuite / wardrobe room. We will level the existing blocks, then add another block to the top as well as the window lintel. As we won't be replacing the roof for a while we will leave the wall flat until we can measure the new pitch accurately. The unwanted internal wall will be removed and the floor dug out. This will be done in 2 stages, firstly the floating floor to level with the rest of the barn floor then the lower floor. The floating floor is all we are doing at the moment as the whole barn floor needs to be dug down to install insulation and UFH and we will do that dig out in one stage when we are ready. We will then follow the same process with each 'room' on the low side of the barn. How long this will take really depends on all the other demands on our time. Once this side is done and all unwanted walls knocked down then we will start on the other side and follow the process all over again. So far progress has been pretty obvious, and as we have a nearby footpath we have provided lockdown entertainment for many of the locals who like to question us and comment on what we are doing. Since last week and less restrictions the number of people has reduced by 90%, something that I'm pretty glad about. I've had problems with images today so I've just added them all together. I'm still chasing for Building Regulation drawings, something that will soon become more urgent. Thanks for looking and feel free to ask questions. Jill
  5. 4 points
    Today I learnt to lay a slab. it's my first one and not a very important slab as it's just to house the GRP electricity kiosk from CCF Fibreglass and a couple of wheelie bins. it was about 0.2m3 and I mixed approximately 1 part cement to 6 parts sand/ballast pre-mix with some water by hand in a wheelbarrow and then tamped it down to get a rough but level-ish finish. There are 3 x 150mm ducts in the slab for the electricity supply in, out to the house and out to the STP which is nearby so these got in the way of getting a nice tampered finish but, all things considered, I'm very happy with what I've achieved today and think I did an alright job for something that I really didn't care how good it looks. I'll have another one to do to house the ASHP further down the line which I'm sure will be better. what did anyone else learn to do today?
  6. 3 points
    Remember that you need to consider ventilation as well as insulation,
  7. 3 points
    I need a bit of a lift this morning. Knackered, tired, had enough - see all the mistakes: you know the drill. We all suffer from it. The No Mow May thread got me thinking: I certainly dont have to do any mowing any more - and thats excellent. Before building I had about 4 hours mowing a week to do. So, how about a Before and After or From That to This interlude. A bit of time for reflection on achievement rather than the next ten -how-the-hell-do-you-do-thats. What better way than two images one Before 'tother After Before After There. that's a bit better: just a bit better. Show us your before and after photos.....
  8. 3 points
    Tiles don’t come out of the boxes perfect either, unless you’ve spent a few extra quid on rectified edge porcelain, and then they’re not always completely perfect / flat on all 4 corners. Asking a tiler to do half bond ( staggered joins ) like you’ve done creates a pita of a job tbh so put the micro detailing to one side and tell him you’re happy with the job. Explain fully to him that you expect him to go above and beyond in the house, eg so he has a fair opportunity to stop and survey the other areas, and ask him to make recommendations for any areas which need self levelling, prior to tiling, so he has no come backs if he’s not maintained standards. Tiles are not supposed to end up like a single sheet of glass, they’re tiles. Imperfect, irregular, and lots of them.
  9. 3 points
    See, you're using your architect wrong, getting a person who's skill is in design to do cad plans from your scaled drawings is a waste of everyone's time and expertise. Maybe he's taken your plan and made into something that will achieve planning or comply with regs? You've said you've paid him for his ability to get things through planning and his relationship with the planning department, but then you've given him a strict design to follow? If you just want your drawings made into a planning set, use a good local technologist, they will do that cheaper, faster and without trying to develop your design. If we have enquiries from someone who "just needs a set of drawings for planning" and doesn't want any of the design stage we always recommend a technologist who we work with. It's just not a valuable exercise to pay Architects to do the mechanical process bits of a project.
  10. 3 points
    Coming back to show you one of the window boards that’s been painted anthracite to match the windows.
  11. 2 points
    Wow, quite a big question! Congrats on getting planning through; that's a big hurdle sorted. I suspect your architects didn't want to change anything drastically to avoid a fresh planning application. Rather than look at individual materials, perhaps find some images of styles of house that appeal, and then consider how that would fit with your location?
  12. 2 points
    If you feel at any point that the meeting is necessary, even if those two don't think it is, - insist on a meeting. Someone else's gut feel is not your gut feel. It is you who have to live with the end product.
  13. 2 points
    I would reroute it completely. Rainwater pipework inside buildings and below floors is asking for trouble later down the line. Redo it while you have the chance.
  14. 2 points
    Time flies - even through the winter. Anyway - nice to get the scaffold down. And what a terrible winter it has been to be standing in a field on the Fen!
  15. 2 points
    Alpha e-Tec and Protec boilers are good for the price. They have also brought out one with a thermal store add on which is a combi with a gas saver and buffer if you can’t site a cylinder and still want large flow rates.
  16. 2 points
    We went for a self adhesive bituminous system that was laid under the slab and then lapped over the footing and stuck to the ICF walls all the way up to ground level. Comes guaranteed. 100mm perforated perimeter drain and back filled to ground level with clean stone and geo-membrane. We didn't do anything else. The best waterproofing is keeping water away from the building. Drainage around and under the slab is essential. You just need somewhere to drain to....
  17. 2 points
    That's been my motto too, although I did get some friends over to intall my 200kg and 300kg 1st floor windows. You're actually not too far from me. I've got two hoists, one electric, one chain knocking around. Let me know if you want a hand and when and I'll see if I can make it over. I'm sure we could figure something out. My main problem throughout the whole of my build has been how to get things up inaccessible banking!
  18. 2 points
    No, given: i) pipes conduct heat very well. (they are for UFH after all) ii) slab temperature changes slowly, so any very minor lag from heating any air between pipe/sensor is absolutely nothing in comparison.
  19. 2 points
    For the £100 the letter will cost, go to a solicitor first - a letter from you directly will just inflame the situation. When faced with legal facts, most people shut up and back down.
  20. 2 points
    Only a small example. My sun room, the last bit of the house that we are just finishing now. Maybe not the clean look some want as there is a stack of beams between the 2 panes to support the roof ridge beam.
  21. 2 points
    Slates are a natural material, do it properly and spend some time researching how it is important to cut them so they feather at the edges. How and where you tail a slate at a valley / verge say. Why not buy say twenty slates and a slating axe, I have a left handed one so you can get these too. Once you have done your research and had a play with a few samples then you are well on your way to a good job. Don't use a grinder or other gizmos.. you are inviting trouble.. your roof will not last as long. I have copied below some of a previous post which may help give an over view. Don't bother with a slate cutter. To get you started, buy a slating axe. I have a left handed one.. I use an off cut of a steel I beam over which I dress the slates. You need to grade the slates. The thicker and wider ones go at the bottom near the eaves. I grade second hand slates ( you need to do this with new slate too to make a proper job) into three piles. You can do four but you may lose the will to live. Grading the slates basically helps you keep the roof tight and flat. Have a look at an old slated roof and you will see thicker wider slates at the bottom, thinner narrower ones at the top. When you get to the verge or a valley you need to turn the slate and trim it the other way. What you are doing here is to encourage the water to move back into the roof in the case of a verge.. so it does not drip down the gable walls. In the case of a valley you are trying to stop constant dripping on to the lead valley and making a hole over the years. You try and channel the water down to the gutter so it drips here and this is where you often have a thicker lead piece. You call this "tailing" of the slate. This can't really be done with a machine..it's a craft. In Scotland it rains a lot, much is light rain.. so it drips a lot. In England say you tend to have much more intense rain.. thus the flash flooding but more dry spells and less of that constant dripping. The new home warranty providers and a lot of the slate providers require that all slates are double nailed at the head. Great if your poviding a 10 year warranty, eg if a slate cracks you often don't see it as it does not fall out like a single nailed slate. But a good well maintained roof should last for at least 80 years? For the roof pro's.. repairing a double nailed / every slate roof is hard going? You can fix the slate but the slate ripper causes more damage that is hidden? Yes there are repair type clips and so on but.. A common traditional method of slating in Scotland is to single nail each slate in the main part of the roof. Every third course you cheek nail a row of the slates, these slates now have three nails and stop the ones below from lifting off in the wind. This way when you want to maintain the roof you can get into turn the slates and easily extract the broken one without damaging the felt / membrane underneath. It's worth I think trying to master this skill, it can be very rewarding. I have left this out but make sure you choose the slate nails carefully depending on whether you are near the sea or not. You'll have a bit of wastage until you get the hang of it. Use the trimmings / wastage as decorative material for paths etc? What is worth while doing is investing in a slate holing machine. You turn the slate upside down. The punch makes a concave hole in the top side of the slate and the nail head sits nicely inside so it does not tip up the slate on top..helps get the " tight roof". You can hole the slates by hand but I would suggest getting a feel for cutting / shaping / tailing them first.
  22. 2 points
    In a single dwelling you don't need airtightness between the floors, just between inside and outside. Air will travel up the stairs. Keeping the doors closed will help.
  23. 1 point
    I’ve to call on there tomorrow afternoon I’ll have a look
  24. 1 point
    All of use it to some degree. I have a few big butts (water butts). But nearly all go for the "for the garden" sort rather than a second plumbing system to flush loos. The second sort is very complicated for the benefit, and you have to have more holes in your house. Shower heat recovery is an easier halo, if you want something.
  25. 1 point
    WHY did you ask for 3 phase? The first thing that stands out is "Breach joint into 4 core cable as customer wants 3 phase" So choose single phase and that looks like one hole in the road and one junction not needing to be made. 35mm 1 CAL is 1 core concentric aluminium cable. Think of an overgrown super sized coax cable. That is the standard supply cable used mostly. What did the single phase quote say, how much cheaper was that? Post the entire wordy bit of the quote, that will itemise where all the costs are. (anonymise it of course) If you have not asked for the single phase quote, ask for 21KVA. Then show us the exact quote. IF you find they are asking for network upgrade costs, then try a lower rating, our supply is only 12KVA and that is plenty for a low energy house. How are you going to heat the house?
  26. 1 point
    I believe this is a mix-up of the rules. Conversions are subject to a 5% VAT rate for supply and install, rather than the 0% of a New Build. However that 5%, + the full 20% of supplied goods can then be reclaimed at the end.
  27. 1 point
    I have a Nibe with the cooling add-on. I cool the buffer which is then sent to UFH and MVHR heat exchanger. The UFH is very effective for cooling, in my set-up, the MVHR less so, as you would expect. I have other processes to help cooling so the ASHP/UFH doesn't do it all on its own, which probably helps. First step is to even out the energy in the slab, to move heat from solar gain areas to the rest of the house by just circulating the UFH. Roof vents will also open to dump warm air, if outside temp is lower than internal. I also have external blinds to restrict solar gain if needed. If the "passive" measures are insufficient, then the ASHP starts to cool. I have it stepping in quite quickly so that it is trying to maintain a temperature rather than bring a temp that sailed 10 degrees passed the desired temp. In those circumstances, it is effective.
  28. 1 point
    Made one of the best decisions of my life when I renovated a 1970's bungalow to incorporate disabled access throughout and whilst doing this insulated as much as I could at the time in anticipation of our retirement. We have lived here now for a couple of years with an MVHR system. Now with a grey water system feeding loos and/or garden and a solar hot water system - presently on trial - both run on photovoltaics. Please be aware I have designed and installed all these myself sometimes following convention sometime radical. I have been in construction for over 30 years. Happy to share my experiences if it helps. Hope to gain further knowledge about the ASHP system I am designing. Marvin. Oh and we have an electric car and happy to discuss the results of using that.
  29. 1 point
    Hi Dragster Driver. @DragsterDriver "waiting on planning permission and then turnaround time on a slab design and delivery could be financially crippling- I really do need to ‘hit the ground running’. I have easy access to plant and groundworkers/bricklayers who owe me favours" Is there more to this? just had a scan at your drawing. Seems like you have a simple raft but a suspended floor over. What do you know about the ground? It may be that your SE does not know that you have these construction contacts and this may have swayed them towards the raft as the most economic based on the info available to them. It could be that if you can call in favours that suit, you can excavate deep strips, get the muck away cheep, do a trench fill strip found all over and cart on?
  30. 1 point
    Brambles are the worst because they bulk up, are jaggy to handle and won't go well through shredders. Difficult to burn even. BUT as you have a decent area of land, if you use a small digger, scrape them up, with 6 inches soil and the roots, make a big pile, chopped and driven over as much as possible and leave them, they will mostly rot down to a fraction of the pile size in 6 months Bury in other compostable material if you have it. Then it is soil, and useful. Also you have got rid of most of the roots. Of course they will grow again, but in a small and controllable area. Depending on ethics and options: Spray until they give in/ turn the pile over/ bury in other compost. Should not need to burn, you will feel good about how little harm you have caused, and have a nice pile of soil.
  31. 1 point
    I was....then dinner was on the table so I had to take a break.....back on it now. 😉
  32. 1 point
    I’m not an expert but I believe that it depends how the planning permission is structured. If the whole scheme is under a single planning permission with no phasing then the CIL liability is due as soon as the developer starts the first property and no subsequent owners can claim CIL exemption for one of the plots. If the planning permission is phased then CIL is due dependent on the start date for each plot. It sounds like you are reapplying for planning permission? Have a read here as this might help https://khub.net/web/planningadvisoryservicepas/forum/-/message_boards/message/147502813
  33. 1 point
    Normally even the dishwasher socket has an isolator switch above the worktop. Does the room with the CU back onto the kitchen? How about isolators there?
  34. 1 point
    Why not change the timber cladding to fibre cement board? Easier to mortgage, insure and sell.
  35. 1 point
    thats probably the tidiest building site i've ever seen! Good start, hopefully the next stages go well
  36. 1 point
    When contractors go skint it is normally HMRC and suppliers that suffer financially. If they are labour only and you just pay him for work he has done I don't see how you will lose out. He may really like some cash as well that does not need to go to creditors.
  37. 1 point
    You are looking at this the wrong way. You don' fill in the ditch and build on it. You dig the foundations, e.g. strip foundations into the present ground at it's present height. You then build up the walls from that. The foundations will be deep with respect to finished raised ground level, but probably not especially deep with respect to existing ground level. Then you infill the area inside the garage with hard inert infill compacted in layers and pour the concrete slab on that. the ground outside the garage area if you want to raise that as well can be infilled with anything, e.g all the soil you stripped off the build area and what you dug out for the foundation trenches.
  38. 1 point
    PS I have four angle grinders, so I don’t have to keep swopping discs, couple of the grinders were very cheap, and it saves so much hassle. Be careful with them, wear safety specs and keep guard on, I have opened up my leg with a metal cutting disc as it got nipped and kicked back, I have used angle grinders for many years so it can happen to even the experienced.
  39. 1 point
    They are really handy if there are neighbouring buildings and you need an elevation in context. Also for drain inverts, cover levels and setting out points. 180 sounds very cheap
  40. 1 point
    Doesn’t need to be strong if it’s only a spacer as it’s in compression. I would mark round the face plate, draw 20mm in and then cut the tile away and pull the valve forward. Mucking about with those little cuts you’re more likely to crack the tile.
  41. 1 point
    As they will be embedded in masonry that will have a high moisture content, they need protection from corrosion otherwise they will corrode and eventually (decades) fail. Your engineer would have specified this requirement. No fire protection needed as they aren't exposed to a flame risk.
  42. 1 point
    I’ve put each of my 4 kids rooms ( well every room except the kitchen and utility ) on radial circuits and their own RCBO’s. Lighting on their own circuits and smokes on their own circuits. CAT6 PoE switch is on its own radial, which also services hall / landing / cleaning / air wick sockets, and at a set time I can just drop the LAN and WiFi off to everything other than the downstairs TVs / set top boxes etc, and any time my kids offer up a bit of ‘confrontation’ the mere threat of my finger waving over the little test button on the RCBO makes the kids concentrate much more intensely on what I’m saying. I call it Parental Override. Works like a dream. I’ve hooked up with a sparky I met about 7 years ago ( @Bitpipe used him ) and he’s been giving me some ideas. Current projects will now be getting 20a rings instead of the 20a radials that I’ve been using previously. Made a lot more sense once the pros snd cons of both were discussed. 2 heads better than one and all that jazz.
  43. 1 point
    Well done that sounds promising. Decent references count for a lot.
  44. 1 point
    We have 253mm posi-joists for our build, which will sit on the walls and therefore protrude above into the next row of blocks, so the next row of blocks will need to be cut/notched around them. We would like to use the Tony Tray technique, but to avoid trying to fiddle the membrane around the posi-joists and the notched blockwork, can anyone see a problem with bringing the membrane back in on the next row of blocks above? An overall flaw or perhaps a wall tie problem? See attached photos, hope it makes sense. Thanks.
  45. 1 point
    I have all these rooms on sensors. I noticed in our last house that whenever we had visitors they never turned off the en suite lights. These were also connected to an extractor fan so that would be left running for hours as well. I don't know why it is not standard to have bathroom, utility room lights etc on a sensor. Not only does it save electricity but you don't need to install switches and root around for lights in the dark.
  46. 1 point
    Hi DevilDamo, That looks very nice well done, I will keep you posted on my progress.
  47. 1 point
    Leicht is one of the best value kitchens that also offer great features. Effectively Siematic for a lot less. Almost all German products are better than the bog standard British kitchen, but not all of them add the clever features that Leicht offer.
  48. 1 point
    @ryder72 can I ask, if Siematic is a bit pricey, which brand would you consider better value for money but still quality beyond the typical British kitchen? I got a quote for Leicht, it was far in excess of our planned budget. Ideally I would like a poket door pantry unit, which is what brought me to Leicht as they made one, but it was well beyond my means.
  49. 1 point
    In my experience of gravel gardens there is a build up of soil over time on top of the landscape fabric and weeds grow in that not through it. Wind blown seeds get in. Good strong weedkiller from a hose sprayer or watering can over the lot a few times a year should keep on top of it. Gravel has not been a totally weed free option for me in the past it needs maintenance just different maintenance. BBC R4 Gardeners Question Time advice for hard to shift weeds e.g. mares tail.......old carpet or black plastic for a year to kill them all off then start again.....if you can bear to look at the mess for a year! @newhome maybe builder 2 threw diesel or something down before the gravel that kills most things in the soil.
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