Russell griffiths

Depends if you want to build a good forever home or an average home you will sell in 5 years. if a good one you will be in for a good while i would forget any form of pir boards in the cavity and go back to the drawing board. in laboratory conditions they pass building regs, out on site with a couple of knuckle dragging bricklayers installing them they come out as pretty poor, the figures just happen to add up so everyone advises using it.

No need to angle them,I looked for a trim to go from my vaulted ceilings to the flat area, I did find some, but after asking 3 plasterers to use them they all looked at me like I was insane and said just round the corner off. I didn’t like that answer and went on a plasterers forum, they all said the same, round it off. so we put a tight coat of bonding along that line, then added a fine plaster reinforcement mesh 200mm wide, then another tight smear of bonding over the mesh, all flattened out using a wet brush to feather the edges, the plasterer then skimmed the lot. I haven’t even got a hint of a crack anywhere and I’m glad I didn’t go for the straight line as I think I would always look at it to check it’s straight.

Got to be timber then, insulation in the studs, some on the inside to bring it out to the right dimensions you need.

Why build that wall solid, build it in a cavity to the same spec as the outer walls and continue it up past the roof line. I’ve got two large internal walls that pop up and suddenly become external walls, it was easier to use the same build method all around than swapping to a different build method for just 1.5m of wall poking up.

Can you use an EWI on the section of cavity wall coming up against the sloping roof. it would be behind your cladding. if you use one of the aluminium bracket and rail systems for the cladding the Ewi can fit behind the rails.

Tube of cheap silicon from screw fix £5 at the most, he is definitely a lunatic. do you need him anymore you have the slab booked in, mbc frame on top, guaranteed air test of 0.6, what more is he good for apart from costing you more money.

I have a 90mm square steel post with 25mm insulation on the outside then covered in an aluminium flashing to match the windows.

Just a quick idea, is it a big deal to have the bedroom inline with downstairs, but just space the cladding out to get that set out look. you loose your bigger bedroom. that lintel above the corner window is going to be grief, can you live with a corner post, could save you a good few grand.

If the hole is in the correct location on the trimmer then it’s not a problem, you can get reinforcement plates that fix to the side if your worried, or you can make up a reinforcement plate out of 18mm ply, glued and screwed on. you just need to avoid the standard plumber hack of cutting 50mm notches out of every joist 🤦🏻‍♂️ fit an air admittance trap under the basin.

I personally would start from scratch and get it how you want it. pull the floor up, cut the stack off remove all those old bosses and fit a new section of stack with th bosses in the location you want them, get the pipes under the floor, get the tray down flush and have it right. anything else is just compromise.

He’s a lunatic. why not block all your windows up then you wont have that problem either. we all want to build better, but you need to draw a line somewhere. if you are using the MBC double stud wall system and their insulated slab then you are splitting hairs, you will struggle to find a better system that works so well together.

Not Vastern a small local forestry company.

I’m probably going to stain it, most timbers will be too light for what I want to do.

There’s all different stuff, i like the look of some monkey puzzle, but the big stuff I want is cedar, not western red, but either Lebanon or deodar.

Evening all. I want to build a large dining table from a single slab of timber, I went to a sawmill today to have a look at some and found plenty I liked, they had all thing I’m undecided about is what slab from what part of the tree. the trees have been cut and then re stacked up in the same position that they came from the tree, so looking at my excellent diagram would you want a piece from the centre like no 4, or 3, or a slab from the outer parts no 1-2 or 5-6. it’s all about 75mm thick at the moment ready to be surfaced flat on both sides to bring it in to about 60mm finish width.