MikeSharp01

They usually supply and connect the meter and an isolator switch and your electrician can then connect to the other side of the isolator. If they don't have an isolator switch, I would be surprise if they didn't, you can get them at most electrical wholesalers and the like but you want them to fit it. Just check that the white box has a wooden back plate in it and let the power company do their thing.

Ah - the little brown bungalow in all its glory.

Yep - sadly if you cannot get a second house / bungalow on the plot, as Ferdinand suggests although 200mSq is a relatively large house really, this is going to be a knock down job by the feel of it.

Well it is something of a sea of doors, corridors and walkways, wonder how many of your 10000 steps a day you use up just getting around!

Ah the good old EC210 (Pic Here) - fun for all the family - but I am not sure I would want to be the neighbours!

But you built more than one story on your project, wasn't bungalow gobbling though cos you left the old one to live in until the new was ready for occupation - are you contemplating the next one as a bungalow.

It is a salutary read - sadly put out of lots of peoples reach by the price £80 ish, but a great borrow!

Even more if you have a shower one supposes.

Yep - I saw that but was not brave enough to mention it, but I now have my tin hat by my side - just in case.

I did a week long course on all three in 1981 (at South Thames College as was and I guess you can imagine where we went each evening, given that Young's brewery was 25 yards away!) I thought the MiG was most versatile and TiG the hardest to get remotely right but I still have my aluminium TiG project from the course. So although I enjoyed the TiG I would say MiG is a great starting place. I have done very little welding since.

According to herindoors probability of any sort of intimacy and warm body radiation theory you stand no chance with a pasty in your pants and you must not neglect the latency corollary that clearly defines the quarantine period, according to the inverse inverse cube law of time since any sort of pasty in the pants. There is considerable research, sadly now rather old, start HERE, that examines the nature of containment for pasty products - including what will happen to your collar, the screw extruder required, the need for a flat bottom and the probable effects on the container design. Along with the challenges to ones relationships the laws of physics also apply the the pasty phase, but, one guesses, that is a whole nother conversation. (Sorry Peter)

You are right to be concerned. Where is the hole in relation to the joist run, in the middle of the run or at one or other end? What sits on that joist, looks like a wall (hopefully a stud wall - which will be light and have a bottom stringer that can spread the load)? If its a brick wall then the load on the center of the joist is a triangle of the bricks and would need some calcs to work out what it is. Also does the joist sit on top of a wall below as this may make things a lot better. There are rules for notching a putting holes in joists. This is quite easy to follow: https://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/Notching_joist.htm

That was a great watch.

Yes - but we need to recall that the Clapham omnibus is now mainly packed with middle call Millennials traveling into work from their £500K Pied a Terres in Tooting and Balham up to the big smoke - their views might be interesting. (I mean that - interesting)

Auto opening for roof lights (Velux / Fakro / Etc) has been a thing for a long time and is very useful for creating passive stack ventilation automatic or otherwise but both need some air inlets lower down the building to let the air in and this is where more traditional windows and auto opening could be a great idea but the example above looks like a sub optimal design to me, aesthetically at least, solution and would leave security issues.