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About Brickie

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  • Birthday 25/12/1866

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    I lie about my age.
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  1. Assuming a level site,your dpc will be same as finished floor level (give or take a few mm.) Your membrane laps in under the dpc o the internal skin. Internal & external dpc will be the same level. If there’s a dpc tray it goes up from the external dpc height by one block course (225mm) to the inner skin. The reason your slab is normally down from dpc height is to allow for the floor make up.
  2. I stack the bricks on edge so the face side is facing skywards,then apply using a roller from a paint tray to each layer of the brick stack as they’re used. One thing to look out for is when to brush off-I’ve found that to brush it slightly earlier than you would normally helps,though not so early as to drag the joints. It makes a mess of your brushing off brush though,might pay to have a spare. I’m still finding my way with this method tbh-just did a pointing job on brick slips which were as hard as engineerings so used the oil & the results were mainly very good. I found that oiling immediately prior to application was key.
  3. Reveal looks quite deep for a solid wall-good chance it’s cavity. Is this a room where you dry a lot of washing,by any chance? Any other potential sources of moisture I the air internally?
  4. @joe90 I hear what you’re saying,just don’t like it,especially if the blocks are on the heavy side. You want your feet virtually touching the wall as you lift & that’s impossible from a tower due to the frame,which means reaching further to lay,more strain on your body & even the risk of taking the wall over if you don’t judge the shift in weight correctly as you reach with the block.
  5. There is a trestle system with handrails-I don’t have a link as they’ve always been supplied to me when I’ve used them. Personally-I hate doing masonry off a tower. Not enough room for your materials,harder to get up & down from & if you have to cut a block on them-minor earthquake. Yes,the handrail issue is true but in reality-you’ll load out your materials to the rear (open) edge of your platform,with alternate blocks & spot boards so the chances of taking a step in the wrong direction are negligible. However,should you trip backwards I suppose you could still tumble over your materials & down. Please don’t take any risks though,as others have said you can still do significant damage to yourself from even a small height.
  6. Did occur to me after posting that maybe I could just buy a Screwfix Louvre for 90p & take the mesh out!
  7. Yes folks-this thread really is as thrilling as the header suggests. We’ve unfortunately stumbled upon a BCO whose lack of common sense is matched only by his stubbornness & ‘computer says no’ attitude. So,in summary,I now have to remove the cast iron air brick I installed to ventilate for our WBS (I can hear you booing at the back) to install insect mesh (even though he’d have been happy with a plastic air brick which doesn’t have mesh.) So,my question is-does anyone know of a BM or High St shop where I can go & buy a some & get this bloody thing signed off? TIA
  8. Are you asking so you can cut the blocks down where the opening is? 20mm upstand would achieve some very nasty nicknames from one as clumsy footed as me.
  9. Look like some kind of post war LBC. Some guy called Steve Findabrick keeps coming up on my LinkedIn-might be worth looking for him.
  10. Hard core game of swing ball you’re proposing there, @JSHarris :)) Not that wacky Id say-I’ve never built a twisted pier but I believe a micro version of what you suggest is one method of building them. Another method might be to keep your centre point as a reference check,set up vertical profiles at say,4 metre intervals & make a curved profile to the shape of the circumference. It’s probably too impractical & time consuming to check every course but you could check maybe every 4th & correct any minor deviations so they don’t increase. Btw,my experience of building curved brickwork (albeit garden walls,so more forgiving of minor inaccuracies) was that production can be surprisingly high. Yes,it’s all level work but that’s offset to an extent that you’re just working the length of your level for the height of the lift before moving along and repeating the process.
  11. If you cut them at 109mm you’ll get 4 out of 1.
  12. I can’t imagine so but you might in years to come as you’re going to see it. Using a coursing brick as a soldier as described is more for work which will be rendered or clad (& hence not seen.)
  13. @Carrerahill I’m not making any assertions on the structural rights or wrongs,just relaying my past experience as a foreman & dealing with NHBC,who as you said don’t like all that. Even known some building control to get funny about it. Anyhow, @epsilonGreedy‘s garage is fair faced (I believe?) so not an option for him.
  14. Wouldn’t get away with that on a big site-mixing materials with different Newton’s plus different rates of expansion for the render. Whdre possible,I bond my corners block to block I.e. lose the 100mm piece. For course 2,I cut a 330mm block to give half bond one way,& use the 110mm offcut the other way to give half bond both directions. If not fair faced,you can just judge the 110mm by using your 100mm bolster 10mm in from the end of the block. Saves you getting your tape out constantly & 4 cuts gives your 8 courses worth.