Brickie

Members
  • Content Count

    430
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

186 Excellent

About Brickie

  • Rank
    Regular Member
  • Birthday 25/12/1866

Personal Information

  • About Me
    I lie about my age.
  • Location
    London

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Sounds like it,neee a pic to clarify as @markc says.
  2. Prob worth dropping the TF supplier an e-Mail re soffit detail & bed joint reinforcement. Cutting blocks is fine if done with a grinder,though the brickies may complain.
  3. Not done a TF for a while but last few I did in block,bed joint reinforcement was required two courses below & above all openings to reduce likelihood of cracking. Couple of other bits off top of my head- Brickfill (or similar) expansion joint foam on a roll (also used to put this at the eaves junction you mentioned.) Coursing bricks for above & below openings.
  4. Have you tried a Brickmatching service if the local merchants draw a blank? Btw-are you sure of those measurements? Is it possible you measured a brick which has been cut? Standard sizes are given in Metric for modern bricks & you would expect 215mmx100x65 or thereabouts.
  5. Have you checked the levels right round with a dumpy or laser? if it’s just 10 mm lower then a block laid flat to kick off would give you 110mm,leaving 900mm. If the footing rises up in places,the Brickie can switch to laying engineering or concrete coursing bricks in those areas for the first course.
  6. +1. If one side is more on show than the other (e.g. if the garden side will have bushes,shrubs or whatever in front of it) then you could just have piers that side (so 327mm piers on a 215mm wall,flush to one side.)
  7. https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200130/common_projects/20/fences_gates_and_garden_walls/2 Note-wall thickness of half brick is single skin,and then multiples thereof.
  8. …100% true,and the main reason I advise people on this forum to choose a different insulation system.
  9. For me,that system requires such attention to detail & supervision during the install that you don’t actually achieve the u-value they claim. Think about a bricky on the scaffold cutting those sheets at a tray damp detail,or around a lintol,or even just up to a cavity closer on a reveal. Trust me,there’ll be gaps galore.
  10. Personally I’d use 1:1:6 (cement:hydrated lime:sand). The lime should make the mortar a little more forgiving with those blocks. Might be worth talking to your architect/engineer/bricklayer about introducing some movement joints too.
  11. I don’t have a scientific background,but a product which claims to inhibit the ingress of moisture in one direction whilst simultaneously allowing egress in the other direction seems too good to be true.
  12. Personally,I quite like a bit of dental and dog toothing,in the middle course of a 3 course projection,in a contrasting brick.
  13. I’m doing footings at the moment with a guy who’s been doing them 20 yrs plus.Unless the water is entering with other services through the same void,he just leaves a 140mm approx gap in the first course of blocks & spans across it with a block on the next course.