Brickie

Members
  • Content Count

    373
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

165 Excellent

About Brickie

  • Rank
    Regular Member
  • Birthday 25/12/1866

Personal Information

  • About Me
    I lie about my age.
  • Location
    London

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Yeah,but only a bit. For me,those zones you’ve mentioned won’t exist in reality-you’d overhang the end of the previous tray further than you’ve drawn,so any penetration or condensation will not have a route past the tray system. As for the diagonal cut-you’re only cutting in what-20-30mm? So long as the tray in the actual cavity is intact,that’s what matters.
  2. Down pipes is best place for them. 👍 TBH,as the Brickie,sometimes they can work in your favour. You whack a profile up at the movement joint,bed the rubber part of the slip tie system in & run that section in before moving along & repeating.
  3. Doesn’t look brilliant but as long as nothing bridges it,no problem. I’d be tempted to install a tray above the plinth to prevent a build up on that ledge in the photo,with some coring holes so it can be cleaned out. Maybe you could have a diplomatic word with them about cleaning the back of the wall as they go (known as ‘wiping your a##e’ in London & the South East.)
  4. Not that I’m aware of. The dpc should be laid on a fine skim of mortar to give it a bit of grip & you then have virtually a normal bed joint on top. Personally,I put a fine skim on lintol tray damp too,for the same reason.
  5. You should see some of the scaffolds Im asked to work on. Need a wand,not a trowel.
  6. I’d really rather not,though. Seriously,armed with extremely basic kit (a dumpy & two pieces of 4x2srewedto make an inverse ‘T’) is there any reason footings shouldn’t come in within 20mm for level?
  7. +1. The typical detail for joists round a stack would involve ‘trimming’ as it’s known,like this,so it’s just a case of filling the void where the stack & hearth were,once removed.
  8. @epsilonGreedy I think Russell was saying that this is what should happen,regardless of the thickness of the wall.
  9. Known as ‘change direction,change bond.’ Applies to the garden wall variety as well-the header courses should be equidistant to each other on adjacent planes.
  10. I tried a method I heard about,where you mark the line with a pen,instead of marking the wall & constantly putting your trowel down to walk back & forth with your level. The results were pretty good,I have to say.
  11. Opening it up by by 2 or 3mm isn’t going to hurt. Btw I’d insist on plumb peeps for Flemish bond-any drift off plumb shows up straight away,especially with metric bricks,where the ratio of header to stretcher is slightly different to imperials. A lot of care needs to be taken in the setting out. I’d sacrifice a day to dry bond the whole build,setting out the openings & dropping broken bond under the windows where needed to give you nicely bonded piers with header/queen closer and stretcher on top.
  12. It’s the social distancing in canteen,drying room & toilets which is scaring the Main Contractors. Ive been off 3 weeks now. Happy to do so really-fewer journeys to work=fewer RTA’s & fewer workplace accidents,leaving the NHS to focus on this S##t show it’s been saddled with.
  13. House had a slate dpc so just made sure we got right along the edges with the liquid membrane & into the corners,then kept the ply & the boards away from the edge by a few mm (essential in practice given how far out of true most Victorian walls are.) Floor looked fine once finished-I,of course,saw the things I’d have done differently or improved if I’d done it again but everyone who walked in just saw a slightly imperfect timber floor,as per their expectations within a house of its type.