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Brickie

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About Brickie

  • Birthday 12/25/1866

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  • About Me
    I lie about my age.
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    London

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  1. Used to be the convention on new builds. I had days of ‘fun’ as an improver retrofitting them into the cavity when they’d not been on site during construction.
  2. Agreed but alternatives are only such if they are viable-if the washing line & airer are full up and the PE kit or the bedding is needed for the next day then it’s a necessity. The drier isn’t used for convenience-far from it.
  3. Had a quick go but didn’t seem to like Smartphone input. 👍 Even so,still worthwhile as we’ll be in this house for many years. Washing machine currently does approx 10 loads per week (plus many 7-10 drying cycles),which can almost all be done to suit. HW via immersion,so potential there too. Thanks for the replies.
  4. Been doing some VERY rough fag packet calcs on the payback time based on your £1500 mentioned & it came in at around a year-does that sound about right? Like I say,extremely crude (I’m a bit busy to devote the time to be more accurate) but my thinking is that,even if I’m so far out that it’s double that,it’s still a no brainer. Garage roof,self install,partial shading,4kw,family of four so loads of daytime usage. TIA
  5. They look somewhere between a Cambridge White & a London Stock. Have you had a sample batch of either & compared them with your existing? Are you anywhere near Solopark Reclamation,near Cambridge? Worth a look there if you are.
  6. What’s with the partial 100mm skin on the outside? Plinth detail?
  7. Been on footings for about 18 months and the weirdest ailment is that I have almost permanently tight hamstrings! Getting the adjacent area scraped flat is a must-I may be as a grumpy as a mountain goat but that’s where the similarity ends.
  8. I’d just cut straight down make it a MJ if rebuilt. Handy if you could go down in line with one of the reveals but not sure that would leave you the clearance you’re after. BTW you’ll make that side elevation live when you do cut an opening out-
  9. As an aside-you are putting an admirable amount of thought & effort into detailing. With that in mind,I’d suggest ditching the PIR cavity insulation. Search the site here for others’ experiences. It’s too complex to summarise in a sentence why it’s such an impractical solution for masonry construction,but if pushed for a one liner I’d say the real world performance is NEVER anything like what it says on paper.
  10. Others who’ve done refurbs & cast a slab will be better informed than me on this-I believe taking the DPM up the wall a certain way (rather than cutting it in) is more the done thing in that scenario.
  11. Was it the same company who cast the slab (& didn’t leave much dpm free for lapping) as have started the blockwork? For that little amount of work I’d tell them to take it down,tape & lap some dpm in & rebuild. There’s only about £200 worth of work there. Also,are they using wall starter kits where the blockwork meets existing? I’d expect to see it poking out the top of what’s built. Have the cut a slot in the existing wall to slide a vertical dpc into where the new cavity meets existing? Otherwise you have an external wall becoming internal with potential for penetrating damp.
  12. Does it need a membrane on the first floor?
  13. I’ve been doing footings (& nothing else) for around 18 months now since relocating & the norm is to leave all doorways out,so the insulation layer is continuous & runs right out to the external leaf at doorways.
  14. If you want be a bit OCD you could use the tray as a shutter & feed some stiff concrete in there. Is it just that corner of the block that’s broken off?
  15. Hydrated lime is only for use in conjunction with cement-to make a reusable lime mortar you need NHL (natural hydraulic lime.)
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