Matt60

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About Matt60

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  1. Yep, same here - very interested in this. From what I understand the cooling benefit is fairly minimal, but if it's not cost prohibitive I'd like to have it with a PV powered, backwards running ASHP cooling the slab and ceramic, near clear window film that reduces solar energy by about 85%. My thinking is that the three combined should make for a comfortable house with nice fresh air during the summer months.
  2. Thanks for the info, much appreciated and is useful to know. I'm trying to (probably) do the impossible and get something meaningfully cheaper than a German kitchen but that is better than Howdens or wicks etc. I'm happy to pay a bit more than a Wickes or Howdens, I'd like to avoid the latter, our last kitchen was Howdens. I wasn't very impressed with it at all and they're difficult to deal with insisting on dealing via your fitters account not to mention all the discount bullshit. The discount nonsense alone is enough to put me off, all the doubling glazing bullshittery should have stopped years ago imo. As above, I'm looking at DIY kitchens but might given John Lewis a look too, any experiences on either gratefully received.
  3. I'm in a similar position to a few other posts on here, I'dlike something better than your average Howdens, but I am not willing to spend 10 of thousands on a kitchen. I've been looking at these; Better Kitchens and like what I see on their site. Is there anyone on here who has experience of fitting a kitchen from them and can give some insight on how it measures up against the competition?
  4. The window manufacturers need to pull their fingers out imo and sort this issue. Catnic have already done it - I'm having these (thermally broken metal lintels) and I don't see why the window manufacturers couldn't do similar. The first to do so won't be able to make them fast enough I expect...
  5. Nothing has been mentioned about expansion joints, just movement joints. That said, for reference, the maximum k-rendered external finish is about 12.5 meters long. Thanks for your help.
  6. Good luck with your project. I guess another reason for Dritherm over beads would be that you don't risk losing insulation if you ever need to open the cavity. I dunno, I'm sticking with that as I can do without giving myself another thing to look in to to be quite honest! I expect the brickies prefer the beads though as they don't have to fit regular insulation boards.
  7. Thanks. I'm awaiting the architect to call me back as I think I will change to the same 7.3n block too. I'm sticking to my guns re the render and plaster coat though - no parge coat for me to do, less chance of leaks and easier to fix things to including kitchen units, bathrooms and TV's etc.
  8. I was told that the Dritherm has better thermal efficiency but that also it more or less comes down to personal preference. I gather that Dritherm 32 is just about the best bang for buck you can get. I have also seen some people say that the pressure of the beads being pumped can cause cracks but the professionals I spoke to about that said that it is nonsense. What stage are you at with your build?
  9. Thank you, I will suggest that and see what they say.
  10. Its a mixture of block and brick. The main expanses have a brick bib at the bottom with k-rendered block above, a full fill Dritherm 32 and block on the inside. Apologies if I said expansion, I meant movement joints - I have lots of unrelated issues right now and my brain is fried tbh. The maximum single span wall lenth is 3 meters. Thank you for your input.
  11. Right, I see thanks, that makes sense, I'll do that. So does that mean it would be a separate zone? Sorry, still learning...
  12. Cheers Joe, I called the structural engineer, he did come up with a few other reasons why 200mm will be a pain all of which did make sense. Long story short, I will stick at 150mm as we are very late in the day and I don't want to deal with the issues that the extra 50mm brings. I think he and the architect are more or less finished and therefore I had to make instant decision now without paying them twice. He has changed the lintels though to thermally broken ones that are bonded to polystyrene in the middle. I have also told him I'm sticking with the render and plaster coat and asked him to explore reducing the movement joints and bed reinforcement. My last house was finished on all walls with render/plaster and presumably no movement or bed joint reinforcement. It did suffer with some cracks which I heavily chased out, bonded and patch plastered and they never returned. Thanks again.
  13. Thanks. I don't want to reduce thermal efficiency as I've already been steered away from my 200mm cavity down to 150mm and so I'm now trying to not lose elsewhere. On that basis, is the joints he's talking about going to give the bricklayer much extra hassle and therefore cost?
  14. Many thanks. What blocks would you recommend? It might be useful to go back with this as the Structural engineer and architect have to happy in order for me to get my detailed drawings which are being done right now.
  15. Probably often right, but in this case that quote is the structural engineer, it will be me who sources all of the trades.