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Showing content with the highest reputation on 19/01/21 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    put a door at top of stairs. get signed off. remove said door.
  2. 2 points
    Add to Gary's ( @nod ) wise view : think about the problem for yourself too - how for example anyone going to repair / clean / clear the drain run? Will the groundworker take responsibility for an inadequate design ( PPI ?). Run the design past your plumber too. To answer your question directly None. Because everyone is shoving responsibility to everyone else. And that pisses me off. Exactly what everyone tried to do to us. 'King lazy if you ask me. Because everyone's final answer is "Well its up to you mate" So, ask everyone, pay no-one for the design because nobody is going to commit - unless they do commit of course. Can you tell I'm cross about the issue for you? Good because it happened to us. Why? Because its about the soft and smelly stuff. And thus to be avoided as far as self-build is concerned. A large house builder would not stand for it. Gather a range of views and spend a bit of time researching the subject for yourself. BH is a great place to get a good range of views. The key question is - what happens when (not if) there's a blockage.
  3. 2 points
    Interested to hear your proposed solution. I'd like to see proper investment in national infrastructure (from trains to roads to broadband to housing) and an overhaul of the education system that promotes social mobility. I'd axe the private school system, or at least remove their charitable status, increase funding of the current system and revert to free third level education, but seriously look at culling the plethora of profit centred degree factories and focus them instead on vocational / apprentice style training. Much to learn from the german system where there is no shame in being a highly skilled worker and an engineer is akin to a doctor or lawyer, not someone who fixes your washing machine. And rejoin the SU and SM Norway style (we can stay out of the EU politics if we want) to prevent our shrinking manufacturing sector from shrinking further. And a proper progressive taxation system to fund it too that has an element that looks at wealth as well as income. Plus a welfare system that has dignity at its heart rather than spite. A lot of that will require new money and that's best done through cheap debt vs waiting another 30 years until we've saved it up in the national piggy bank. We're the 5th/6th richest country in the world, we can afford it.
  4. 2 points
    Never seen a house built on a building notice and very much doubt you will find a company that will do it. The opportunity for finding a 5 figure issue at inspection would be huge.
  5. 2 points
    You will give your groundwork’s a detailed drawing Usually done by the Architect or engineer He will take one look at it then shuv it in his pocket and do his own external design
  6. 1 point
    This would be my concern. Even an honest contractor will find unexpected items when they start stripping back. Floors and floor slabs seem to be a common theme, plus walls out of plumb etc. Is your price an estimate or a fixed price? While you can, go get some more quotes and get a few for demo and rebuild also.
  7. 1 point
    Ahhhh there it is ffs !!
  8. 1 point
    Agree - I was suggesting oil plus the barrier rather than just oil (probably wasn’t clear)
  9. 1 point
    Have you looked at levels yet? Regardless of which route you take, it looks to me like the new house is lower down the slope than the road. Depending on how deep the sewer is in the road, you might very well need a holding tank and pumping station.
  10. 1 point
    @Simon Brooke, Do you have E7? We don't have any CH on the top two floors, and like you during the coldest months the 1st floor is maybe 1½ - 2 °C cooler ran the ground floor. However I use a small oil-filled electric radiator in the doorway of my study which opens onto the hall landing. This is on a timer and dumps maybe 10 kWh space heat onto the first floor (and second floor by convection), and this gets rid of this layering. It's 10kWh into the general mix for house heating for under £1 per night. Still, it keeps the first floor nice and means that I can wander around bollock naked during the night and still be very comfortable -- though my wife (and son who live on the top floor) might not be, but that is only visual 🤣.
  11. 1 point
    It’s not really worth using sand and cements if you are looking to save money You would have to mechanically fix stainless mesh as the s&c would be to heavy for fibre or primer Something along the line of mr P suggestion would work Render base coats can be floated up to a smooth finish
  12. 1 point
    You can’t do 1 without getting permission from your sewage provider as the section from existing to the road becomes an adopted sewer as it services more than one property. Option 2 requires an easement in property ones deeds so has a cost.
  13. 1 point
    Very likely. For a long time early in the build we had cardboard doors on most of the rooms.
  14. 1 point
    Need to take it all apart, open up the wall, modify the drain pipe so it comes out higher up the wall and re assemble. It's "little" things like this that on another thread I said there is a LOT more to being a successful tradesman than knowing the regs.
  15. 1 point
    Is the rest of the house sapping the heat? I had issues with one of those actuators trying to get it to calibrate, the floor was always warm. In the end I loosened the body about one turn, did the calibration, then once completed tightened it back down on the manifold. Been fine since, I did email salus but never got a reply. I'd try running the calibration exercise a few times as I'm sure they get better each time. Failing that You could try the opposite of my bodge, but you'd need to just slacken the actuator to allow the pin to come up more after calibration to prove it. then contact wunda or salus to check if it's a common issue
  16. 1 point
    FFS words fail me mate, your winding us up that must be a drawer from a different unit. 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
  17. 1 point
    It's the design stage that troubles me. Currently being left for later by architect. I am not comfortable with that. Even alternatives would seem preferable to no design at all. For pricing by potential main contractor, and for Building Regs. I should know all this, but what is the alternative please? Switch outside the door? No views here, genuine complete ignorance. Hence hunger for alternatives to problem situations. Will ask architect Tks, will ask architect No drawing at all, currently. This is my problem Architect has had them done before, I am told, using builders and private Bldg Inspectors he regularly works with. But I am open to alternatives. Architect certificate might not suffice for potential buyers if we have to move in a few years (as probable). Inclined to pay for structural warranty in addition. Another whole topic though. I like that idea. We had innumerable iterations within the family and had to enforce a design freeze at some point to allow drawings to progress Great idea first floor or ground floor? Sorry to be unfamiliar with some of the terminology Thanks. Any recommendations for such a M&E designer pls, anyone? Recommendation for drainage design (ground works, routing) is what I really need. See alternative routes 1 and 2 in diagram, next post. Sage advice, thanks Thanks It's like going to a surgeon and them saying ask the nurse which operation you need. So the patient needs to google. I'm looking for which surgeon to pin down and make responsible. Paying for design, drawings too. But omissions trouble me Thanks, I might start sleeping better at night as the concerns get sorted out one by one
  18. 1 point
    Most electricians have a dim view of the short courses and their candidates have earned the name "5 week wonder". The big problem is the course might teach you the regulations and you might pass the exam, but you will probably learn nothing about real practical sparky work. It is as much about understanding buildings, how to route cables through an existing house etc to make wiring alterations, knowing what you can and importantly can not do. The practical aspect takes time to learn, which is why without doubt the best way to learn it is an apprenticeship.
  19. 1 point
    Nobody seen White Gold? (Netflix). Never a truer word said. I recall when having "double glazing" fitted to your house was a status thing. Windows being made deliberately undersized by a country mile to speed up the install. Bloody great gaps left covers with wood trim or upvc strip mitred bonded on. No expanding foam as that would have held the job up. The draughts around the outside made the windows probably less airtight that the old wooden ones taken out. Clearly it still goes on today. I've a number of ill fitting 2G windows to rectify as I go. The couple I've bought and fitted myself have been fitted with foam and/or Compriband. The difference is very noticeable in terms of draughts and noise reduction to those with giant gaps. See the trim at the top: 20mm gap and the top. Sides and bottom similar: Gap at the bottom when the sill was removed: Animals!
  20. 1 point
    I would use Weber LAC with sheets of fibre mesh embedded. 3mm thick and can be rubbed up to a sanded finish. Don't get it on your clothes it will not come off!
  21. 1 point
    My architect's technician gave two drainage options on the plan but said the builder on the ground would make the final decision as he should have experience. I think you would be badly advised to do this on a Building Notice. On a Full Plans application they check everything in advance and confirm you are in the clear. The last thing you want is for them to say near completion that they want something changed or that the regs have altered. I found this part tricky as they wanted me to chose stuff way before I was ready so they (BC) allowed a few things to be conditional. Also get the design stage SAP calculations done on this so that you are certain that is ok. I have made changes during the build but only improvements, (ie triple glazing and more insulation) so they have been happy.
  22. 1 point
    Regarding the level to aim for, I think Level 3 (used to be called an 'A' Level) is the very minimum. https://www.gov.uk/what-different-qualification-levels-mean/list-of-qualification-levels Heatpumps really require a lot of research (I got a Level 6 in them and still don't know much). The basic principles are fairly easy, it is he detail that is the killer. Traditional plumbers just cannot accept that they are a variable power source, and are physically large, and need somewhere to store the energy they produce. May be worth getting in touch with your local FE/Skills college, they offer courses, but also you get to meet people already working in the industry. I think electrical work is easier than plumbing, and the world is going electric.
  23. 1 point
    the WC is above the largest open void and unless you go to the north wall - so go in reverse and put a fairly nasty external soil stack - you can’t get it easily to the East wall where the majority of other WC connections need to be. Depth of the floor would have to be pretty deep to get drops, and if floor joists run east west it will be around 150mm drop across that run and it still then has to do a dog leg unless you do a run of soil stacks along the East wall which isn’t ideal. one option would be to box out the end of the wall where the bifold stops in the edge of the kitchen and use that as a stack and put plenty of sound insulation around it so immediately to the left of the WC there would be a vertical stack. I’d flip the downstairs study WC and shower too and put the WC against the wall as you can also then box in to pick up the Jack and Jill on the same stack. Similar with the front cloaks, switch it left to right and you’ve got a chance of picking up a stack in the bottom right corner of that room. Who’s doing all your plumbing design ..? Ventilation ..? Decent M&E designer should see that off in a couple of days or so with a full set of plans and elevations and the site plan.
  24. 1 point
    I’d also ditch the pull cords in bathrooms , architect still thinks it’s 1970 lol don’t get the communal en-suite either split them off , who wants to share a sink with another bedroom ! Odd. the bedroom windows have non climbing guards, are they not fire escape windows ? shower in the second downstairs toilet ??? or are you thinking it’s another bedroom off the kitchen as you already have a downstairs toilet by front door ? 6 toilets for a 4 bed is a lot ! not seeing any extract ducting to the wc’s , building control will want that.
  25. 1 point
    Plumber will do the above ground , builder/groundworker will do below ground. You don’t really want external soil stack as it looks gash so some thought and planning of where you bring it through the house into the ground is needed. sewer pipe is wider than a stud wall remember, but with pozi joists can help routing them no end.
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    I charge travel time - if I didn’t I would just wrap it up into fees and make them higher but I try and make sure things are transparent. Someone wants me to drive 3 hours across the country to look at something, why shouldn’t I charge as it’s a full day lost.
  28. 1 point
    That's great thanks, I'll know to make sure it's included now, the last time I got windows fitted there was no talk about air tightness 🙈
  29. 1 point
    Looks like it’s the external facade wrap
  30. 1 point
    Gents on this does the window company usually take care of the air tightness sealing and tape when they are on a supply and install contract ??
  31. 1 point
    That's unfortunate and not a lot you can do with it now in all honesty. However, I would recommend squirting Illbruck FM330 in the gaps and on the inner side 15mm - 7/12 TP600 compriband. You can't do a lot at the blocks other than trim the compriband. Then over that I would apply ME508 airtightness tape. I would also suggest buying ME902 primer before sticking the airtightness tape onto the blockwork. He has something running up vertically, not sure what type of tape it is but it doesn't look like it is doing anything tbh.
  32. 1 point
    Illbruck is a name to conjure with. Really good stuff. They do airtight expanding foam and tape too similar to Compriband. <£10 a tin to go in a foam gun. A couple of quid cheaper you have Everbuild acoustic/airtight foam. We have a "window" man on here, can't recall his name, Craig?
  33. 1 point
    all of the trades are flat out, labour for a sparky/plumber (plumbers earn more) whist your doing your gas tickets. Specialise in heatpumps as there seems to be a massive shortage of plumbers who can do them.
  34. 1 point
    Decent foam, done right? is alright. Compriband BEFORE the windows/doors go in is better. Is it all going to be airtight taped?
  35. 1 point
    Knock and rebuild it. You're only saving brick walls by the sounds of things and in the overall scheme of a house they're actually pretty cheap. You'll save a lot of money on the demolition if it can be done by one guy in the seat of an excavator vs many workers manually hauling everything out piece by piece. Otherwise build your extension from dense concrete blocks and pump your current cavity with EPS blown beads. Then add 200mm+ of graphite EPS over everything and cover with a synthetic render. Decrement Delay = Phase Shift = How long heat takes to soak through a surface . It's related mainly to overheating, roofs especially. When the exterior surface of the structure gets very hot in the sun you want to delay the heat transfer until it's nighttime. Its's a combination of specific heat capacity and mass of the structure and the sequence of layers within it. Timber frame walls with PIR = very poor. Timber frame walls with woodfiber = excellent decrement delay. Thermal capacity or a wall/roof is the ability of the inner few cm of a wall to absorb and release heat later without warming too much themselves. This slightly slows the rate a structure heats up and also cools down. It does not cure overheating or underheating but helps buffer the extremes. You don't need 300mm concrete walls for this, a few mm of plasterboard is plenty in a well designed house. Remember the thermal capacity of the structure is added to everything else in the house (furniture,inner walls, flooring books etc) too to help buffer heat. "Thermal Mass" isn't a measurable commodity but rater a general concept encompassing these above misunderstood principles. Whenever a "professional" mentions it your bulls**t alarm should go off as it's almost guaranteed they have no idea how to measure or design any of the above. Good luck with the project anyway. Do you have any plans to show us?
  36. 1 point
    The comparison between running a nations budget like a household budget is a well worn politician's trope. https://neweconomics.org/2018/10/a-government-is-not-a-household The nettle to grasp is whether to tax income or wealth. The former is very easy to monitor (PAYE) but does not address the real inequality where massive amounts of wealth are in the hands of a small percentage of the nation. However those with appreciable wealth also have the means to obfuscate it and effectively influence government not to tax it. The property tax vs fixed charge is interesting but as discussed earlier, how do you effectively calculate the property value on an annual basis? RBWM, where I live, has the highest average house prices in the UK and our longe term conservative led LA boasted of keeping the CT low every year. However it now transpires that we have a massive hole in the budget so that magic trick hasn't worked. Still, I can get into Windsor Castle for free whenever I want so, silver clouds and all that. I grew up in a fairly grim NI housing estate but benefited from free education (just) and random house price inflation. Navigated a few recessions and would consider myself comfortable. Always happy to pay tax and would happily pay more if I felt it was being spent improving social mobility, which benefited me. I didn't see anything in the last Labour manifesto that scared the horses and the current govt has shown that there is there ability to access resources when they're required. It's a choice...
  37. 1 point
    Hi, Just finished and moved into my self build project. A 323msq single storey barn style dwelling built to passive levels. After a 5 year plus planning battle due to it being in a small village (hence outside of development zone) and in a conservation area, we finally achieved permission back in October 2018. Kicked off with my chosen frame supplier backing out due to financial woes but we eventually got underway in May 2019 and were just a couple of weeks away from completion at the start of 1st lock down. But that's life. Finally moved in after selling the old house in September last year. Now trying to fine tune all the systems, MVHR, ASHP, 14 zone UFH, etc etc. This is how I've come across this forum and hope that I can find out if anyone has come across the problem I am tackling with Neostat V2. I'll post this under another title so it gains more accurate placing in the forums.
  38. 1 point
    We have a Mednip stoves Churchill (single sided, they do a double sider but you won't like the price) And I have never needed to clean the glass. It is genuinely the first stove i have known to stay clear all on it's own.
  39. 0 points
    Almost happened in 1941 but there you go, another missed opportunity
  40. 0 points
    Oh ffs ! Now the drawer won’t clear the trap !!
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