Adam2

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Adam2 last won the day on October 16 2018

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  1. Ok thanks for the input. An option could be some sand in some clear resin or under a couple of layers of clear car laquer - if this does become an issue. About to press the button on 20m of waterproof LED strip light from alibaba - hoping with the right size hole I can have this captured under the nosing on the tread to avoid the extra cost of housing...
  2. Yes good point. Will have a look at some products. Any clever ideas for hidden fixings? May have to open up the steps and see if can fix from behind, also will need to check thickness of the for led strips.
  3. Our gabion walls are coming on well. We have some gabion steps running down through them and am thinking of what to use as treads. Options so far seem to be: 1) floor tiles laid on mortar - with mortar or concrete used to create a good bed into the stone/wire. Not so keen as think they may come loose over time if there is any movement - maybe can do sufficient prep to ensure that isn't the case. 2) Timber - fixed through into another timber under the wires (so sandwiching the wire) - should work OK, easy enough to have small overhang and concealed led strip light beneath. Only issue is longevity and/or regular aftercare 3) Composite decking material - could be OK, not used before so unsure if this is viable / if any specific issues to be aware of. One problem may be fitting led strip under as depth of mnaterial may not easily allow for this. Thinking we'd leave the riser as gabion/stone If you've done something similar would be great to hear what you ended up with.
  4. If you need a house warranty (peace of mind, mortgage, re-sale in < 10yrs) then you may want to check with your warranty company. In my experience (limited to my current project) they will not warranty below ground waterproofing so if you are thinking to get a warranty then you may need to use a waterproofing co that can provide a suitable warranty for the product + workmanship. If using EPS (or XPS of course) this limits your options. Some (Sika from what they told me) don't warranty ICF any more - my guess is some early bad installs led to too many claims. Some others will provide a warranty (insurance backed for 10 yrs) as long as you use their range of products and an approved installer. As part of this I would strongly expect you to be using waterproof concrete + an external barrier or an internal cavity drain (hate the idea but is an option). However, a warranty is not something you will ever want to use of course so avoidance of problems is #1, though if the waterproof co both test the concrete and supervises other aspects of the install then you will be on your way to a quality waterproof solution so there is maybe some upside to this approach even if you don't care about getting a warranty.
  5. Actually got in touch with the above co - very helpful on their technical line. No problem just have the concrete to falls and either have linear drainage below the resin or use something like this if you want a surface level drainage - which I think will look better and be less likely to have leaves stuck in it: https://www.aco.co.uk/products/freedeck
  6. These guys say resin bound is permeable : https://www.sureset.co.uk/about/resin-bound-vs-resin-bonded/
  7. A bit more research indicates that with the resin bound finish being permeable the drainage should be at the concrete level and not at the surface level so that also presents a bit of a challenge. Possibly I could have the concrete base installed to a fall which will have a perimeter aco drain installed so that it is at the concrete level but the detail of finishing the resin bound surface eludes me so I may have to do battle with a supplier to see how they would propose this - maybe it's as simple as just having some shuttering above the aco drain (possibly angled). As the aco is not very wide, this seems unlikely to lead to wear and tear issues.
  8. Thanks Pete - though we're concrete with mesh on top of beam and block so not sure we should core drill through the beams or the blocks to replicate the above
  9. Looking at levels for a new driveway that will finish at the garage entrance and thinking that if we want to improve the very rough surface of the garage what are our options (size is ~7 x 5.5m). 1 - sand/grind a bit and tile = ~25/35mm increase in height 2 - as above but a latex compound instead of tiles 3 - as above but an epoxy compound instead of tiles 4 - thin layer of concrete maybe with fibres It's kind of important right now as this will determine the level we want to finish our driveway at and this (as per other post) is beam + block + concrete so the structure beneath that can be adjusted but when built will be staying as-is aside from the final surface which probably is resin but tbc. Not sure how good options 2 & 3 are for wear and how thin you can go with option 4 so info appreciated
  10. Am looking at driveway levels at the moment and fancy these nice looking resin bound drive finishes but as they are porous is that an issue if the sub-base for most of the drive is 100mm of concrete? Do we have the risk that in winter the water enters and then freezes causing damage to the 25mm resin layer? Sub-base for half the driveway is on an elevated platform with beam/block + concrete, possibly we could lay this to a fall to reduce water penetration into the resin.
  11. Adam2

    Piling Time

    Yes just for the driveway, house will be in a concrete raft or 2.
  12. Adam2

    Piling Time

    ABC Anchors, dealt with Megg who was mega helpful. Quick supply and can provide on site support if needed, which I opted for as we used our own digger.
  13. Yes, https://www.tus-ufh.com/ Very helpful co
  14. Hi, we're happy with most of our house design (until we change it again...) but think we could do better with the top floor so really interested in ideas here. The requirements are: Master bedroom with dressing area and en-suite 2nd bedroom (there are a couple more on lower levels) 2nd bathroom that could be en-suite to the 2nd bedroom but could be outside of the room My thoughts are that the master en-suite and dressing area would ideally be larger. 2nd bedroom anyway will not be used that often so could maybe be reduced a bit. Exterior side walls are shaped like this to make best use of plot so not scope at this stage for anything radical on that front. Master bedroom has high and wide windows which we want to keep so does limit some re-planning options. We will rarely use the bath in the master en-suite but this is the only bath in the house so thinking it could maybe move to the other bathroom on the same floor but with an eye on future resale (~5 yrs) maybe buyers would expect a bath in a master en-suite - even if they won't use it much either! MVHR etc will come up in the services cupboard. Thanks for suggestions.
  15. We have a couple of large areas of garden to plan - previously these were turfed but that turned to mainly moss and needles due to the shading from 3-4 nearby large pine trees. We're thinking of options for the garden and figure we either try a more suitable natural lawn or artificial grass. I tried to knock up a pic in powerpoint - poor man's design tool! At the bottom there are some more trees (red hexagons) creating additional garden shade and the fencing on the left (as viewed) is about 2m high and we'd like to plant the bottom left 1/2 of this area with bamboo & trees for privacy (yes I know need the right bamboo or decent containment but this seems a good option for this area). A few questions: Are pine needles going to be a complete nightmare with artificial grass in terms of removal? Is it worth trying again with real grass - though I guess even then the needle removal is going to be a a big chore Is artificial grass OK with dogs that may go to the loo on it? Hopefully they will listen to instructions but can't be certain 🙂 We won't use the grass areas much for sitting out as we have some large terraces further up. We need to decide now as we'll lose machine access when we start the foundations