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Adam2 last won the day on October 16 2018

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  1. My neighbour is using microcement - I think on MDF. It's turning out really well. Thin coating but seems quite robust, not sure if would work for kitchen use but looks great on a table and v cheap.
  2. In our last refurb we installed 5m of frameless glass folding/sliding doors at a huge expense only to see that instead of anthracite the frames were beige! Original colour had been written down, surveyor visited to measure and gave me a form to sign with a RAL code which he took from a printed colour page and he wrote the wrong number I didn't notice. When we discovered it clearly was a huge drama but then it was forgotten about completely. Image - could have been any colour!!! Made us realise that some things that feel like a big drama you get over which helps a lot building a house.
  3. well done - looking fantastic!
  4. Adam2

    1 floor done

    Will be EDPM with a pedestal for tiles on top of that - will check on vapour layer -roofing co are speccing that -I trust them
  5. Adam2

    1 floor done

    Yes this is the PIR something like 180mm dropping to 100mm. Also 25mm on underside I think not shown in that detail
  6. Adam2

    1 floor done

    @Moonshine yes waterproof concrete (BASF - link above). No surface primer needed - well only on the toe of the slab where applying direct to concrete. Also used the underslab concrete membrane. All OTT really as we're on sand and the ground drains well - the old house here had none of this and no leaks.
  7. Adam2

    1 floor done

    Thanks, this is from BASF - they have a wide range of products for use with EPS inc concrete admix if you need a contact
  8. Adam2

    1 floor done

    Here's a prelim detail - there's a small number of changes due. Debating at the moment the sliding door support - block + extra external insulation, marmox + HDPE. The slab to the left is the base of the lower ground floor built off the compacted back-fill with a 50mm concrete blinding layer on top. Insulation on terrace is tapered, provided by waterproofing co (Alwitra), there is also 25mm on underside of the terrace not shown in that detail
  9. Adam2

    1 floor done

    It's been a wile since the last blog entry and I didn't expect to have gone through yet another contractor by this stage but that's the way life goes! We had some good progress with the basement floor walls going up and getting poured without a hitch. We moved on to the basement roof which is a terrace for the lower ground floor so was propped with acros (decided to buy 50 as can re-sell later). That also went well - aside from some issues identified by the structural engineer. Due to a delay in the concrete pour (don't ask), managed to get a local firm in to make up the shuttering for the exterior stairway so poured them at the same time as the basement roof - not really saving money just getting it done a bit earlier. With that done we could get no with some backfilling on the sides of the building, brining up the drainage pipes from the soakaway and building some planters between the side the basement and the boundary - reusing some of the sleepers from the retaining structure we built along the boundary. Also meant we could get some blocks in to the other boundary wall and close in our neighbour - she's been great and very understanding! After applying the waterproofing and a few weeks we were able to properly backfill behind the basement. The engineer required more granular fill than the beautiful sand we had removed so that hurt a bit but never mind we cracked on with that and backfilled against the eps sheets we laid against the double drain which was against the waterproof membrane. This took a lot of time compacting in 150mm layers but we had a big excavator on site to help and a few bodies. With the backfill done we could start on the ground works for the lower ground floor. Unfortunately a ground worker though a boundary wall should come down (I wasn't on site) so that made a lot more work - was the remaining part (about 8m) of a 20m long wall so more to get rid of and more to rebuild (he didn't last a lot longer). As this floor is below street sewer level we installed a1.5m x1m pump station for foul water/sewage - the upper floors go direct to the sewer so we can last a while if this get blocked up - though it does have 2 pumps, an alarm etc. Issue really was that it had to be pretty deep due to the distance from the furthest bathroom - though the groundworks guys did a great job with that. We found that a large tree we had felled (with permission) had it's stump in the way so a day was spent getting rid of that -managed to find a neighbour to take it + some off-cuts of timber! You can see in the pics some decent size I beams we installed to make a king post wall retaining our neighbour's new fancy house - the beams were 9m long so 6m in the ground and 3 out to retain the excavations. Luckily I could call upon the firm I used for the earlier retaining king post wall who happened to have hired in a great new machine which they used for 2 days to make the holes and we then used the 13T excavator to drop the steels in place - this was completely heart in your mouth stuff. The steels were too long to be lifted so the guys cut a wedge in them 1m down from the top to wrap the lifting chain around to get more height - worked great. A bit of concrete later and we had 4 solid steels which we could install the sleepers in to. Rest of the ground works just took its time, we're 3.5m below ground level so all materials had to be sent down a home made chute but more problematic was the removal of 160T of additional excavations from the trenches and final levelling. how do you get that up 3.5m? We hired a long reach HiAb with a clam shell bucket and paid extra for a tipper to be loaded at the rate of 1 per hour. Took it's time but we got there eventually. We still had some final trenches and drainage right at the front of the site which of course resulted in 30T more excavations which we put in dumpy bags and got the HiAb back to lift out and put in a tipper - though kept 10 on site as a safety barrier and to reuse for backfill later. And the long boundary wall - well we re-built that much stronger than it was and also a little higher to fit with a future stairway - not looking forward to the rendering cost for that ! So we're now ready for the concrete blinding layer and then we get the steel fixers in for 10T of rebar for the next slab. I hope it gets easier after that! and hope we keep the current team for the duration....
  10. Hi Julian, I'm planning on using marmox as the bottom course of blocks for my internals walls that are built off my concrete slab - other products out there. In your option with the block on the slab this would reduce your cold bridge. Your SE could confirm if that is OK and if you could then have a course of blocks on top ready for your studwork or if you needed a connection through to the B&B - not sure why you would if just timber stud walls though. As you have B&B beneath there may be concerns re movement transferring to the walls if built directly on this unless the wall is over a supporting structure beneath that - just speculating really - would check with SE Having your UFH pass between rooms means you lose some ability to control individual room temps - may not be an issue but just noting that in case of relevance. You can't of course do this with the 2 options you have.
  11. Yes need the nice bling look (with functionality of course) + resilience but without the kind of price I might see for a "traditional" HA solution
  12. It was there a few mins ago but also the same error for me now. I think there's a big market for a decent highly configurable control panel that also has direct relay control to ensure continuous operation in the event of a component failure in a hub. The Heltun one is not too bad and seems to be widely available. Let me know if you find anything else to consider - am hopeful that something will come along before 6 months 🙂 hoping to need it then but oculd be longer!
  13. For many rooms we'll use retractive switches with a zwave wireless module behind it but for some areas where we have more things to control I'm looking for a decent looking panel. Ideally a panel that will still control the directly connected circuits even if the zwave system was down. I cam across this which looks the dogs danglies and has 6 relays so could be ideal. Tried contacting the manufacturer but no response yet on some basic questions. Anyone else using this device? An alternative could be these: but they lack the flexibility I think of the first one and users have to know what each button does which is not nearly as usable I'll be using these/other components with a zwave hub. I trialeld this and am pretty happy with stability and flexibility. Any comparable things I should look at?
  14. I'm using a Huawei 4g router which costs £15 a month unlimited data on a cheapo provider but works well. Camera is a Imou life model which is powered and connects via the wifi enabled router. The camera model is "LOOC". I paid for their cloud storage so have 30 days motion triggered recordings always available. I didn't do much setup and don't seem to get false alarms on recordings. Can connect on my phone and see what is going on at any time - pic quality is great.
  15. You may need >1 duct run (depending on duct size) so you will need some calcs. As above would have thought a supply into dining. In bathrooms right over an enclosed shower may not be ideal - will get a lot of moisture and may not be so effective for toilet smell extract? What are your plans re kitchen extract? If relying on MVHR you may want two extracts with one nearer the hob. I had a design from bcp and then tweaked various bits then passed on to engineer and architect to make sure all fits with wall penetrations, steels etc. Was worth £100 as they will also work out number of ducts to get the flow needed + can provide sizes of manifolds which I needed to allow for in ceiling heights so found quite helpful