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Adam2 last won the day on October 16 2018

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  1. Well the latest is that I can get a 6bar uvc from cylinders 2go not a huge increase in price for the potential benefit
  2. I'll run the numbers again to look at payback based on what we could likely utilise - with ASHP and an EV this may be OK but I guess the EV will be at work much of the time during the day in the week so would rely on other things using the sun's energy - can of course put into UVC. Will see what a box of bits for solar will cost 🙂 For now though will have cables and roof penetration for this at least in our plans and a UVC with a suitable coil so can add in later. More pressing dramas now like a plumbing co that will agree to have a ashp system with cooling of the slab!!! Apparently Panasonic and Mitsubishi do not "warrant the process" whatever that means as their units would just be chucking out cold water like they are supposed to do and the rest is someone else's responsibility!!!! argghhh May have to just get a regular plumber to follow my instructions and not have them responsible for the overall system performance
  3. Thanks @Stones for sharing your setup & experience with that - encouraging! It's Re Solar - we're planning to cable for PV as we have a flat roof area which could accommodate this but given the long time for a return on investment we'll defer the installation. If electricity keeps going up and panels come down it may make sense in a couple of years as we do have an electric car and ASHP so should be able to utilise a lot of what we would generate. Am chatting with a plumber at the mo that is quite pro solar thermal but I need to see some costs and decide if this has any real benefit/return on the investment. Would prefer simplicity vs saving £100 a year for 20 years to get payback!
  4. What duct coolers have you found that work well with ashp? I was thinking of these and have in my bpc quote but wasn't really sure if would help that much
  5. If still looking I can provide details of mine. The main guy was not easiest to contact or get along with but the day to day chap is excellent. I'm building Nudura on a bit of a complex site so a lot of SE involvement.
  6. I understand the usual config is having a PRV before the UVC to take mains down to 3 or 3.5 bar. My UVC will be 2 floors below main bathrooms so will lose about 10m of head by the time hot water comes out of the shower so I was wondering if it is possible to have higher pressure UVCs (googled but no joy) say 5 bar with a PRV installed on the UVC output for local h/w at 3 bar and a separate output to the top floor with a PRV up there at 3 bar to maximise the shower experience 🙂 I'll get around to actually measuring the mains soon enough and find I only have 2 bar probably 🙂
  7. Thanks this is incredibly useful But it does worry me 🙂 as implies 2 x 10 min showers at 12L/min would be roughly max we could get from a 400L UVC at 48 degrees. I guess we would probably use a bit below 40 - though my wife for some reason likes hot water torture! With an ASHP you wouldn't be getting much replenishment either in that scenario. I imagine (can check COP) that it make sense to heat the ASHP to say 55 in the morning (maybe using E7 or E10) to compensate if we find we're running short sometimes..
  8. I'd expect the further apart they are over the min then the more pipe you'll need and more insulation on the pipe. Not sure if there is any benefit unless you have specific local conditions that mean >1.5m is necessary as surely if they state 1.5m then that is sufficient to work as designed for most situations. Mine will be 1.5m as this is all I can accommodate - will use a hooded vent grill that I can use to direct flow direction a bit.
  9. Was planning on Cemfloor which specifies min 25mm cover on pipes so assuming 16mm pipes I have 34mm cover but yes will be ensuring the contractor creates doorway joints. Though my question was really about the need for perimeter insulation given that the walls are EPS
  10. Am I correct in thinking that this perimeter insulation strip used on the exterior of a floor screed is there for insulative benefits and not to do with expansion? If so, with all my external walls being EPS I can avoid having to install this? The floor build up if it matters: concrete slab, dpm layer, PIR, slip membrane, UFH pipes, 55mm screed
  11. Thanks @Mr Punter looks very nice. From the pics it looks like the posi-joists stop at the wall and the extended beam is what continues meaning you had both a nice detail and one which was easier to block in. I guess I could install exterior ply to the sides of the posi-joists then in-fill - bit of work there mind with I think 17 joists at 1.2m projection.
  12. The joists are not yet strapped onto the wall plate so could be lifted (not easily mind) to allow this but I'm not sure how that would help in this scenario. On the outside face would the membrane do out under the joists and be then secured onto the ply deck? If so the membrane could also be secured onto the outside of the steel beam and achieve the same, though I wanted to avoid wrapping the joists like this due to possibility of any condensation (or other moisture even if from an installation defect) within this space then being trapped rather than dropping into the soffit/soffit vents. But maybe I misunderstood the Tony Tray application here - I did look it up and see how it applies in "regular" scenarios
  13. Thanks @Iceverge we're sticking with warm roof I think as bit late to change that now. The joists are all a precise width and the space between top/bottom timbers is of course the same so I was thinking we could make a production line - getting there cut on a jig could be relatively quick and accurate to make them precisely to size. In our warm roof the issue of course with the ply being the VCL is that it is above the joists so we would have this issue (the waterproofing/insulation co) will be installing a vcl over the timbers in their own scope (price agreed so can't really remove and may be needed for warranty anyway) Maybe I could install a long roll of earthwool running through the joists across the width of the building maybe in 3 layers and thick enough so it is pushing into all the open space with PIR fixed inbetween the joists as per oriignal plan - may be a big quicker that fitting teh smaller pieces
  14. Hurray - building the roof! It's a warm roof construction plasterboard posi-joists (225 deep) 18mm ply vapour control layer 150mm PIR (avg) single ply membrane edge detail will be aluminium (Tag Fascia and ali soffit with vents for any moisture to drain out) The roof - see pic, projects over the steel beam and I'm trying to work out the best way to stop this being a route for cold air beneath the insulation. Am thinking I could cut blocks of PIR inside the clear between the top and bottom timbers of each joist directly above the wall EPS + a thicker block of PIR or EPS in the gap between the joists. Is there a better way? Under the joists I was thinking to use an airtight VCL stapled to underside of joists with tape over the staples and with double sided tape to adhere to the steel and the EPS interior walls. To help with accommodating light fittings I plan to secure the VCL up the inside of specific joists to provide extra fitting space. I guess it is either this kind of approach or we deal with air tightness by really carefully detailing around the joists and taping this to the underside of the ply and down on the back of the steel beam (or insulation we'll install on the back face of this. Maybe this is a lot more economical than this additional airtight VCL running under the whole of the ceiling on this floor - about 80m2 Would be great to see pics of any similar installations.
  15. Yes - to have some interesting impact I think he needs it to actually flood under the building!