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Adam2 last won the day on October 16 2018

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  1. Adam2

    EPS70 vs PIR price

    Planning on Nudura so EPS. If we went with own additional insulation that of course could be PIR for the width/U benefit. Looks like that would get down to 0.15. We'll probably live in the house ~5 years so need to consider cost/benefit over this period. Though of course we may change our minds after we finish building it 🙂
  2. Adam2

    EPS70 vs PIR price

    Hmm, thinking we could apply an extra 50mm EPS on the inside - mainly due to exterior window reveal depths becoming pretty chunky for a contemporary design if applied outside. Should get us down to 0.18 or thereabouts. Presumably this wouldn't lead to condensation risks. Alternatively if externally applied extra EPS could mount windows on some form of extended support built off the concrete (think I saw this on another thread where this was reducing reveals but also improving thermal performance).
  3. Adam2

    EPS70 vs PIR price

    Mostly will be render
  4. Adam2

    EPS70 vs PIR price

    OK thanks, wouldn't want people thinking they were a min target to hit/improve upon - not saying that's a bad thing of course but with the title it does imply the are. Not wanting to detract from the spreadsheet, that + the other one you provided are great resources for many.
  5. Adam2

    EPS70 vs PIR price

    Thanks @JSHarris, in L1A I thought the min values were different and the ones in the spreadsheet are the model house values. Or did I misunderstand? which won't be a surprise. Am curious as my walls plasterboard/air gap/65mm EPS/150mm concrete/65mm EPS come in at about 0.23 which is > the BR wall value of 0.18. Yet our SAP assessor says, based on the overall design, that our design is a pass.
  6. Adam2

    Which ASHP are set up to cool

    Do you mind explaining what this would entail? Is this like the duct cooler (as per link to BPC) but using an independent distribution duct system and an in-line fan to get a decent airflow?
  7. I'm so far impressed with my Z-wave based Fibaro setup. By going with a "standard" like Z Wave you can, to a degree, swap out components like switches and sensors. I'm trialling this in my current house to check for stability etc before the new build and so far so good. Turn off the central component, no problem light switches still do their thing, even light switches that actually wirelessly control a wall socket which has a regular table light plugged into it (simple remote logic is stored locally). It feels like a good balance between a high end lighting control system where you need an external programmer and a custom/hard for future owners to maintain heath robinson affair. Also have some sensors and a simple scene to turn on radio over Sonos in the mornings and all has worked though did have 1 system crash after about 6 months. Bought some different brand (smaller than Fibaro) plug in socket adapters that are great. I'm not going anywhere near automated / remote door or window controls based on proximity etc. Though may consider a top floor roof light opener linked to internal temp and rain sensor! The "programming" for this is largely via a graphic interface + you can get into some basic coding if you want to but I will try and avoid this to ease future maintainability. In case it's not obvious this is a local setup with no requirement for constant internet access - though of course to get updates etc you will want to have this from time to time. Another nice feature of this approach is that for light switches you can choose pretty much anything (best with retractive switches). You can also of course have key areas as part of the "system" but others with simpler requirements just operating on their own as regular light switch controls - BUT still use the same switches on these as well so it all looks the same. I did start another thread on a very similar topic just a few down the list here which may have some additional helpful info. Wiring - this type of approach can either be "regular" where you have the wireless comms/control unit fitted behind the light switch or have 1 or more central wiring points where the switch control units all sit together - that allows easier maintenance of things if needed.
  8. I think you're right. I tried unsuccessfully even with PP. not a huge cost on its own but they will all add up....
  9. Adam2

    Why insulate between floors?

    Very interesting, the same angle I started from when initiating this thread - thinking of a deck / concrete system but went down the precast + EPS + screed route due to comments relating to downside of not insulating below the UFH. Like you, I figured why use EPS and then have another layer of screed as it involves a lot of cost and makes floors ~90mm thicker. As you say trade-off seems just to be heating reaction times for upper floors - though I notice you mentioned passive house so you'll have less of a requirement than I will I would expect. Will continue to ponder and will discuss with the structural engineer to see how much it may upset his calcs (+architect's detailed design/BR drawings) if we were to change.
  10. Adam2

    Why insulate between floors?

    My neighbour has used similar and was very happy as meant he could do a lot more work himself - though he also used EPS + EFH in a screed so still reasonably thick. What are you considering with this approach then for the floor make up? Tin + concrete (with mesh) + ? If no screed I understand that as meaning your finished floor is going on the concrete so no UFH I guess? Not sure how much thinner than pre-cast - mine is looking like 150mm precast the deck looks like it has min 60mm height + concrete on top which I didn't look into but presumably will be ~60 also depending on what span/mesh etc so not too much less than precast? My design is for pre-cast but I'm still interested in alternatives if there may be advantages.
  11. We had 5m or slide and turn doors (some company in Kent curtain wall or something on those lines). Really liked them - 2cm rubber strip between glazing makes for great viewing into the garden. Seemed incredibly good - though was a retro-fit so no air tests done. The handle turn really compressed the glazing. We were really happy with them. Only issue was when ordering the chap with us wrote down the wrong RAL colour for the frame so instead of anthracite they were beige!! Could have been worse. At the time felt like a disaster but like many disasters we realised soon enough that really didn't matter - would have been more of a drama of course with bi-folds. Price was high, I think 40% more than the double glazed bifolds we were getting prices at the same time from Shuco supplier.
  12. Adam2

    Glazing costs .... OUCH!

    Google Sieger XL doors and you get plenty of info. Like above - 3G at that U level must be perforated 🙂 Clearly not so something is wrong . I'm getting closer to a big order also 3 lots if 6m x 2.5m 3 pane sliders + about 60m2 of windows so very interested in your pricing/suppliers. I was quite excited by prices from some until I used their sliding doors (hated the system). also need really good strength due to wind driven deflection so not so concerned about minimal sight lines - which, when you are over a certain size I don't think really matter too much. Bets of luck + thanks for sharing the details
  13. Adam2

    Selfbuild Cil exemption for conversion

    Have you considered VAT aspects of this? I mention this as you may be able to justify 5% VAT due to a change in the number of dwellings. Strangely this seems to apply if you are either increasing or decreasing the number. Good luck
  14. Adam2

    Three pours down..none to go - thank goodness

    Thanks for the post. Was the concrete excess due to not needing the full order in the blocks? Maybe I'll put some shuttering around my garage piles for any excess
  15. Agreed it is a bit of a loss. I think regular triple glazing will be in the region of .5 to .6g so not as extreme as it may sound going to .3 + the heating requirement (exc solar gain) seems to be a pretty low requirement so for my situation I think this feels like the right balance. Every situation is so different and so many considerations.