tonyshouse

Members
  • Content Count

    269
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

48 Neutral

About tonyshouse

  • Rank
    Regular Member

Personal Information

  • About Me
    Loves reducing energy use, saving energy, hates waste in all its forms.
  • Location
    Thames Valley

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Mesh should not be necessary at all. If you are rendering over a vertical straight join. Over wood or where joistor beam ends are poking through yarn mesh first.
  2. Reasons aircrete cracks - brittle. muck too strong, Slamming doors, lintels. Thermal movement, window openings, internal walls, structural movement, poorly laid, bolted into, stairs, door openings,
  3. I used thin clean cover-up poly but cut v slots in the windows for ventilation, lasted 6 weeks at Easter down south ten yrs ago - need some ventilation
  4. I have been saying it for 40 years, 35 with posts mostly on GBF as a builder I stopped using aircrete widening the cavity instead in the 80’s, medium density blocks, no cracks or call backs better quality, only ones who moaned were the brickies
  5. Last one I did we did with the walls lying down, dead easy to stand them up, building was 12m x 20m single storey 2.4m high, all insulation batts, sheet insulation and vapour barrier 2 days three men - add a bit for walls standing up - take off a bit as we stood our walls up too
  6. Night time cooling is a good option - basically running ventilation system on high through the night and letting it cool the structure then Keeping the sun out during the day
  7. If you haven’t done it yet then try to design out the need for any cooling, building physics model will inform such a design reasons, expensive to install and run, higher than necessary energy demand, might be outlawed at some future point. I like MVHR and love EWI, skylights will need shading to prevent losses and gains where external shading is a must. looks like great plans - hope it is a cool success in summer and a warm one in winter like mine is 🙂.
  8. You will need foundations, let’s say 450 deep, concrete, and I think protective railings on each level, I would dig a soak away 3m back in the middle 2m deep and run land drains back to it that link to perforated pipes that run behind the bottom of each wall. how about Gabions, plonk em down, done, cheap, easy paving slab steps between two of the.
  9. Corner trim in the corner for me. Did the tart have upstands? I prefer to stop the panel 8mm off the tray with a 30 degree chamfered cut if it was mine I would take the door and frame off and stop the panels with edge trims exactly on the outside of the door frame profile
  10. Panel degradation is an accountant thing - the only thing that stops a PV sell working is a hammer or a cosmic ray. Cosmic rays travel clean through the planet without hitting anything. I saw a PV panel from a North Seay buoy 30 years ago when it had been out at sea for 25 years, it measured efficiency was 98% please note it think that you might mean kWh not KWh
  11. Ten years ago my basement including g/f slab structure cost 35k 80m2 diy plus 50% of brickies and labourer and jcb