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It's definitely lime based. It was renovated in 1982 and the plans stated the pointing and binder were lime mortar - it doesn't specify what though.

@Mike Thanks for the advice. I feel a bit reassured!

Hi did you use a QS or online estimator ? or builders quote ?

Suggest that with your reasoning & see what they say. I've used Tescon Profil too - it's easy enough to use, just takes a little time. Have some acetone on standby to clean your hands and scissors as it's rather sticky.

Where abouts? That's where I grew up as a boy.

@Mike As it's into dense EPS I think they use screws. Good thought to ask specifically about underneath. I'm having the outside of the reveals rendered with 15mm stop beads before the windows are fitted, so would prefer to aim for a 7.5 / 8mm gap as you're suggesting. I do still think it's a bit poor that they can't use factory fitted tape though. @Mattg4321 I came across that when I looked up the Tescon profil stuff. Looks almost as good as factory fitted for pvcu windows. Trouble is I think they'll charge me £1050 for fitting it! Were you able to use it as you fitted your own windows?

It's described as 1.5 floors but just over 8m high so lots of room upstairs. Lovely big plot so much better house for the location.

Using Danwood so SIP construction that should take 6-8wks on site.

Good idea. I'll report back... That's possible. As above, it's nominally set to 40°C, but the dial on an an immersion stat isn't a precision instrument and the only temperature gauge is the one on the manifold (the one reading 38°C), so I've no way of knowing how close the Willis is to 40°C in reality. It will be getting a set of sensors & a Pi control system once the rest of the refurb is done - in time for next winter, I hope!

If the build is as old as a 600mm thick rubble-filled wall suggests, then the chances are that it's lime mortar, so I'd repoint in that to maintain / restore the vapour permeability & flexibility of the original mortar. You'd need to knock through the existing pointing to see what's behind if you think the original could have been cement-based, but that's only been commonly used since start of the 20th century. 1:3 NHL3.5 or NHL5 to sand would be the easy mix; since it's granite the latter would typically be chosen to match the hardness of the stone (NHL5 is usually, though not necessarily, stronger than NHL3.5). Lime putty would be the traditional material with superior properties (more permeable & flexible), but would be harder to use on granite - it would take longer to dry - and isn't suitable if the wall is regularly wet. Having said all that, I'm not a lime expert.

I used this stuff as it was pretty cost effective against the competitors. Also bought their primer for taping to lightweight concrete blocks. Very very impressed. Was almost impossible to pull off even if you tried. https://passivehousesystems.co.uk/product/phs-modbau-internal-window-tape/

That’s enough Bracket 50 mil in

Don’t zone if at all possible. Adjust the spacing of the UFH loops to match the intended design temperature for particular rooms while running a single low flow temperature.

Emergency Egress Window.

I aim for 7.5mm (all round) to give some tolerance - so it it ends up being 5mm or 10mm, no problem. I wouldn't object to 10mm too violently - it's just that if it ends up at 12.5mm in practice, then it starts getting fat for the external sealant. I'd ask them what their plans are for underneath - it could be that they'll also fix the window using mechanical brackets down the sides. Or they may plan to use temporary wedges (not all the way through) while the foam sets.

thank you for confirming this. I've only got 105mm from the right hand side. 😢

@Mike The installer's almost insisting on 10mm, which seems ott to me. we've used an extension tube on the gun before, whic h would get it into 6mm easily. If I aimed for a minimum of 8mm, that sounds doable. But what about the bottom? presumably the foam gets completely squashed out there? You're right, it's ICF (Jackon). So no VCL. The reveal is really simple as there's just a 350mm closure covering both EPS and the core. Made from high density (120?) EPS and 45mm thick. Makes the windows very easy to install. I thought! Perhaps I just need to have more faith in FM330.

@ETC what is EEW is it Earthquake Early Warning or EEW structural member

Hi, A bit late to this post but could you link to your website thanks?

The flowrate is somewhere between 0.1M3/hr & 0.2M3/hr, assume 0.15M3/hr, One heater ON, split flow, the dT is, 3.0*860/(0.15/2*16.66*60), 34.4C, assuming heater output temp at 38C (stat not tripping at ~ 40C) then the inlet temp must be a impossible 3.6C, or else stat not tripping and outlet temp ~ 59.4C (from inlet temp of 25C), mixed with the other heater outlet at 25C gives a outlet temp of 42.2C. If the flow, for one reason or other is all through one heater then the dT is 17.2C to give the same 42.2C outlet temp and stat probably not reaching cut out. I gave some advice a few years ago in the installation of a Willis (gravity circulation) heater to a HW cylinder with Iboost from solar PV and the only way it could be got to work was to use the Willis stat in a supervisory role and use a pipestat to do the switching because the Willis stat would not switch until around 75C, probably due to very slow circulation despite using 22mm piping, its still working fine.

Illbruck FM330 is very good stuff. If you have of suitable gap between the window and wall (at least 5mm - I prefer to aim for 7.5mm) fully filled with FM330, then it will be airtight. If that gap's too narrow to ensure full foaming, then it may not be. If it is properly foamed, then whether you then need an airtight tape or not depends on the rest of the structure. For example if you have an internal VCL that needs to be sealed against the windows, then you may well need a tape to do that. But I think you're using ICF - so chances are it's not needed, but it depends on exactly where and how you're fitting the windows. We'd need a detail drawing / sketch of the window-wall junction to advise further.

@Redbeard They are. And the limited width of the internal frame is why I don't think taping to it is the way to go. And worsened by the installer virtually insisting on a 10mm gap around the frame. I'm probably just being obsessive, but relying on foam for an airtight seal just doesn't seem right. I'll ask more detailed questions about fitting of some other Internorm dealers.

''Posted 15 minutes ago (edited) ''@LaChab, Google translate suggests that Rahmenaussenmass means 'external frame dimensions', suggesting (to me...) that that 85mm section is inside. But perhaps I am misunderstanding. Edited 14 minutes ago by Redbeard'' No, I got that completely ar*e-about-face!! @LaChab I think you must be right and I am wrong. So they are inward-opening?

@Redbeard Just noticed that in the left hand picture it shows the Alu cladding.

@Redbeard You had me worried there! And I've seen them! Like you, I can't see it specified, but this description talks about the "hidden sash" from the outside.