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saveasteading last won the day on September 21

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  1. Also 'lost' in the building: At what stage does graffiti become history? It has always been a delight to come across the proud script under a floor board of a joiner who built the floor 150 years ago, or a lad from the village making his mark in a barn, or the farm-hands writing each years sheep numbers up on the handy barn door. Or a newspaper under the stair. Must remember to place a time capsule in our project. But what will be interesting in 100 years?
  2. To help the window cleaner to survive, a strategy would be good. I think I would favour access through an opening skylight. Next choice is one ladder onto the lower flat roof (with a tie position permanently fixed at the eaves) then an additional ladder from there to the main roof (tied at the top, and a good idea to have a fixed block at the bottom too. That way each ladder is relatively short.
  3. Does anyone know the approximate rate of water flow through a rad system? It appears to me that the circulation on a loop is about 10 minutes when cold and all rads open for flow.. So normal pipes are not limiting the flow too much.
  4. Well, you can't do that can you? However the epc could be encapsulated and fixed in the plant room/next to the fuse box, and it could also say that Ferdinand built this lovely house in 2021 and gave a full maintenance manual to the owner. I tried this for a while, by summarising on an encapsulated A4, the building construction, eg the bricks are marley sussex, the tiles are redland xyz, and the insulation is 200 thick abc. the metal cladding came from..etc. and the epc is B+ . The client was not interested but did not object either. You can also direct the owner to the safety and maintenance manual which is both helpful to them, and there as a protection against future claims. Should have done it more often. Then maintenance manuals became compulsory and no need for the little notice.
  5. The pro's prefer the expensive stuff generally. Whether £20 or £200 for 5 litres it still takes a lot of labour. and the better paint lasts as least twice as long.
  6. OUCH the price!. £60 for 2.5litres. That should be good then. Good luck.
  7. I don't know Barretine but I see that it is a stain and preserver. I think you want a sheen, rather than any more protection. If it dries to matt and you want a sheen then you will need something on top. However this will need to have good resistance to the weather as it becomes your outside layer. All I can suggest is 1. see what it says on the tin. 2. go to a paint merchant and ask for advice. 3. put another coat on, but of clear "stain" for want of a better term, that does produce a sheen. 4. let us know your solution and how it works out.
  8. This is what professionals do, and none of us here can see the context completely. If I was that person I think it would take a good half hour on site to check it out, and soak it all in. We can't do that on this forum. Perhaps it is a Structural Engineer you need here though, in case there is shrinkage of the ground. He will look at the rest of the building too. Are there any cracks in the walls? sign of similar issues at neighbours?
  9. If it is the waterproof type, then dampness is not an issue. But your roof should not leak, and if it did it would pond on the lino and then run off. Try without. For a cheap fix, apply the cling film that is sold as floor protection during works. NO NONSENSE HARD FLOOR PROTECTION ROLL 25M X 500MM (32544)
  10. Have a look at the known names for stain, like Sadolin. Get a small sample tin and try it . I have used it several times on new cladding and the subtle sheen has been very pleasing. How it works on older wood I don't know, but my hunch is it will be good. In my experience this keeps its looks for 10 years on the sunny side, and longer on the other faces. If you use the oak finish on pine, there is very little change but then it stays that colour instead of changing to grey. Darker colours last remarkably well too.
  11. I have 2 at home. One of the most expensive jobs ever as I had people doing it. The plumber must have done 6 visits to do little bits before another trade was needed while he went away. Mine are Roca wc with a very heavy steel gantry behind, which for some reason are not Roca, Geberit I think. The gantries are good and I would use them again rather than home-made. Lining everything up was tricky. I think someone who knows what they are doing could do it in 10/th the time. But I have had it apart again because the wc was rocking (imagine that failing in use!.) The pan is secured to the cantilever bolts by 2 plastic plug inserts (which looked the worse for wear, and very long grubscrews. It did concern me but has been ok for 2 years now, but the plumber must have fixed it loose/too tight??? One tiny detail...a flush that works by push lever works much better than a push button. And putting it behind the pan lid is not a great detail. They are great for tidiness and cleanliness as there is no break in the floor cover or hidden space behind.
  12. Not a specialist 'secure fixing point consultant', but someone who can choose a hook and a fixing and specify what to fix it to. Not your architect by the sound of it. Don't let hem engage another consultant at your expense. If you have an SE then that is not going to be difficult or expensive. Ring + 2 nuts and a suitable piece of wood or steel in the structure. £5 should cover the materials.
  13. If the water is cooled by 2 deg it is then heated again by the ground underneath, perhaps some nice rotting going on at the bottom, and the inflow of water (dam not pond) 4 deg is going to be midwinter, so really is a worst case, and don't they quote heat exchangers down to -35C? In summer it will recharge to say 20C. Sounds like a good idea, especially if there is a significant flow of water, but I can't do the sums for it.
  14. One last thing from me on this. That skylight is huge. Daylight from a skylight is about 3 x that from a window, so it doesn't need that size if daylight is the reason Cost: what size is that? It is a huge piece of glass which would have to be rather special for safety and strength for wind and snow.. As one piece glass in a special skylight....£8,000 and a crane??? GUESSING. With subdivision by glazing bars perhaps half that but will hold the muck, and need extra obviously out of the question.