ProDave

I would take the skirting round the corner with a nice corner joint. You may need to trim the top of the skirt to fit under the unit and would only work if your skirt was no thicker than the end panel of the unit.

Personally I would not combine the utility and bathroom run, instead I would have a separate run straight out from the utility room and an extra IC along the top as shown in this plan.

I don't believe CIL applies anywhere in Scotland. If it did, it would have been written into your planning permission and you should have got the exemption before you put a spade in the ground. I

I recon from experience 2 days of electricians time and 2 days of plumbers time to install one on a new build. And I am in the camp that does the sums on that plus materials cost and wonder just how most of the companies that quote get figures as high as they do. If you are going for self install, then look at the other option, some companies will supply the kit for £0 using the grant for you to install. MCS sign off for a heat pump is not mandatory, in fact I struggle to see what that expensive bit of paper will actually do for you.

What you can do for that circuit is separate over current protection and earth leakage protection. That would tell you why it is tripping (though not stop it) which would make solving the issue easier. And a separate circuit for the freezer would also protect it from something else in the garage tripping it.

There have been a few developments around here, all small scale, where a number of plots were sold individually for self build. Yes it can take a while before they are all finished, but generally the results are good. If this link works https://maps.app.goo.gl/S3TDGbpQvWBsd7a59 All the houses to the west of that point were sold as individual plots, I wired one of those as a new build, and another when they extended into the loft. These are the detached houses around a green. The houses to the east of that point were all built by a developer. Guess which end of the street I would prefer to live.

Availability of sensible priced plots and then the extra cost of a custom build compared to a standard box, is what limits the number of self builds. If only government were to mandate that the mass market house builders who buy up most of the building land in large blocks, must sell a certain percentage of their plots for self build, at the same per house cost as the whole site cost them.

Re the garage door. I just fitted a standard FD 30, and then added an extra bead around the door frame and extra draught proof seal around that in addition to the intumescent seal (which is not an airtight seal) The garage door was the one removed for the air test blower door so did not figure in the air tight test results.

Before you get too carried away, I quietened our Conder simply by placing a standard 100mm concrete block in the chamber so the pump sits on that now, not the plastic that it used to sit on. Still not silent but a LOT quieter.

We have delved further into this. Did I mention this extension was build by Bodgit and Scarper (very) Limited. I could not repeat a single word said of them on this forum. As far as I can tell the whole extension is plumbed with this type of pipe and fittings. Delving deeper. That elbow disappears through the wall, half of it foamed in part buried in the wall. Looking inside it gets worse. It comes out in a small boxed in section behind the downstairs wc. Looking into that the whole lot of the boxed in section is filled with expanding foam. If there is an isolator, it would be very hard to reach and would need the expanding foam digging out. Best to assume no isolator for that outside tap. B&S Ltd living up to their reputation. Having discussed all this with the home owner I think we have decided this is a can of worms that is not worth opening. Will get some pipe insulation for that exposed length of pipe.

I have been tasked by a relative to raise this outside tap to a sensible height (accessible by a wheelchair user) It is connected using some plastic (looking) 15mm pipe. The elbow fitting at the bottom is this The lettering on the top of the fitting reads BS7291/2 2006 Class S PB Q'FIT 15mm The top of the plastic pipe appears to go into a normal 15mm compression fitting with a normal brass nut. I am away from home at the moment, passing through here on my way to other places. My task, on the return trip is to extend this pipe to raise the fitting to a better height. That can either be replace the existing pipe with a new longer length, or leave that alone and couple a new length on with a straight coupler. I am not familliar with these fittings don'd know how to uncouple the pipe from the fitting and if they are even re usable. P.S this is not how I would have done an outside tap and if you mention the builder / plumber that did this the air turns blue with expletives.

I guess if you wanted to try it, fit a Cat 5 / 6 plug assuming standard colours. If it doesn't work buy a new cable, deny all knowledge and report a fault (and this thread can be made to vanish)

Buying a "standard" staircase of fixed rise always struck me as odd. Unless you are VERY lucky it would never work, unless you design your floor levels around the staircase. As above stairbox etc will get what you actually want, made to fit.

Which is why replace complete cable is best answer.

Get a new cable fitted and make the offender pay for it. P.S. What is the house being clad with? the aerial bracket seems to have been fitted before the cladding? Are you really going to clad around that?