ProDave

Congratulations. How near are you to completion? Lots to do or nearly there?

The wet suits hang on the clothes dryer. Dual use you see.

No it's not a charge storage device in this application but giving a phase shift for the second winding. the simple obvious question, when it took several presses of the button to get it going, did you hear the motor start up every time or did the motor only start the final time that it worked? Pull that bloody sensor out for a look, it only takes seconds.

The cap is for the motor. As far as i know there is only one motor which runs the fan and the oil pump together. If it was the cap, then it would be obvious if the motor was running slow or not starting surely?

Hi and welcome.

The radio ham is technically right. A bathroom fan should not respond to radio signals so it is "malfunctioning". We have a thing called the EMC directive that is supposed to have stopped all this nonsense by ensuring products are properly designed to neither emit or be upset by radio signals. You could take it up with the manufacturer and point out you don't believe it does comply with the EMC directive? Or the radio ham could be a bit more helpful, borrow the fan and do some tests and probably add some filtering capacitors to cure it (complete the design and testing that should have been done by the manufacturer)

For the benefit of someone like me that has never heard of them, can someone post an example of what is meant by an "In Frame" kitchen?

It is surprising how easy it is to strip the threads in a gate valve if you are heavy handed and that can leave them stuck open or shut depending where they were when you over do it.

The flame sensor is that black thing entering the aluminium casting top left above the capacitor. Just pull it out and look at the end, wipe any soot off the "window" in the end. It will take less time to do than it took me to type that.

To test the seal of those 2 bolts, place the cistern on a stand of some sort away from the pan, and fill it with water from a bucket and see if they drip. If the don't then it will be the donut leaking.

Most of us on here have bought normal second hand ones, probably mostly recognised Japanese makes, then sold them for not a lot less than we bought them for. The Chinese one, bought new, would be guaranteed to lose a lot.

I would stick them. "Stick likes sh*t" would be my choice. You will need to hold them in place while it sets, tape will probably be all you need. ALL my skirtings and architrave are fixed like this, no nail holes.

Our utility has the washing machine and that infernal towel fluffing machine aka Tumble Dryer. It also was the WC (not everyone likes that idea) It also has space for a "pulley" one of those clothes drying things that drops down from the ceiling so not everything has to go in the TD. That has it's own alcove so you can still walk through the room when it's full. Yes walk through as it is also the access to the garage. Oh and there is room for the ironing board to love there ready for use without having to fold it away every time. So yes a big utility room is good. Oh and it has a bit of space earmarked for a shower, a Scottish BR requirement.

Developers don't like deviating from a standard spec. If you informed them before first fix the additional cost should be trivial, but they seem to just milk you instead. I have retro fitted additional stuff to a new build after they have moved in for less than the builders wanted.

Yes like everything else they have to be "accessible" so no putting them up high or low down. you would have to check what the BR say in England it will be with all the other accessibility stuff. P.S my earlier comments, I missed the post where this jumped from fitting it in a low loft to now putting it in the utility room.