ProDave

Would be interested to see the breakdown. I would have expected less, e.g surely only one road crossing is needed etc.

ebay is probably easier. You can search for an item and then have it notify you when new items fitting your search description are listed. You can also include distance from your address so you only get to see stuff within travelling distance. I don't "do" facebook but every time I have looked is seems so confusing and haphazard and you see something one day and it's nigh on impossible to find it again.

I used 3 coats of the 2 pack varnish that Howdens sell (sorry I forgot to not the actual make of the stuff) Super finish and very hard wearing. I doubt you will have a problem once it is dry but very stinky stuff to apply, so wait for good weather and all the windows open.

Looking at the last picture, the incoming supply to the shed splits to the sockets and lighting with no fusing. I would expect at least a fuse or mcb for the lighting circuit. I am not familliar with Dutch wiring, but there must be the equivalent to our Fused Connection Unit?

Or a bit of flex just connected into the back of an innocent looking socket. I am no longer surprised or shocked at the horrors I frequently find.

If the shed has a feed large enough for sockets, then it should either have a mini consumer unit, or at the very least, a Fused Connection Unit with a 3A or 5A fuse for the lighting. What about RCD protection? This shed could be a lot more dangerous than you think.

Make sure you have notified the planners that you have started the development then your planning is locked in for good.

I just sat the relay on a convenient ledge and cable tied it there so it could not fall off.

Or was he just testing the local reaction? I would go and have a chat and say look old chap, site it somewhere where it cannot be seen or heard from our house, and I will raise no objection.

My conclusion is up to a typical 4kW PV system, it is very easy to self use all that you generate. So a lot of what we generate goes into the washing machine, dishwasher, or tumble dryer, not into "heating" the house. So what. as long as it is used somehow, it reduces what we have to import and pay for. What can't be used goes to DHW and then only a tiny bit gets exported. It is only above 4kW of PV that it becomes hard to self use it all and battery storage might make more sense. @SteamyTea post highlights the difference between the extreme ends of the UK. After our brief warm spell, it's been back down to 3 degrees sitting under a cold grey dark sky (Harr) up here, so there is no way we can turn the heating off yet (though last week it was not doing much work). Our heating bills with the new house up here are pretty low. I bet they would be stupidly low if this house was in the warmer climate where @SteamyTea lives.

Just be VERY careful you don't miss any re application, or ammended application, don't assume it will have the same planning application number.

It took them many weeks on my new connection to contrive / find a working pair from here to the exchange. The delay resulted in my connection fee being refunded. It's not BT but Open Reach who are the ones that let it all down.

Don't set the window out quite that far. Our situation is slightly similar, 200mm insulated timber frame with 100mm wood fibre board external insulation and similar render. The windows were bought with aluminium external cills iirc about 130mm deep. So the windows were set so the cills overlapped over the wood fibre board enough to allow for the render. Some pictures to explain it: Here is how the window sits in relation to the wood fibre board, so the windows sits partly in the timber frame (brick wall in your case) and partly in the external insulation (EPS in your case) The windows are fixed with several galvanised plates pre drilled with holes (someone will tell your the correct name?) first screwed to the windows then screwed to the frame (again that will be screwed to your brick walls)

Well done. Sometimes when you identify the faulty section of cable you never get to find out exactly where the problem was, as it is often easier just to re route a new bit of cable and leave the old one in place. As you say, another option is to feed the two ends of the now broken ring, each with a 16A MCB as two radial circuits.

This is what I did. An old desk fan, a big sheet of cardboard, a lot of duct tape. A manometer to measure pressure difference between in and out. Measure air flow passing through the fan with an anemometer to calculate a rough idea of the leakage rate. And go round the house looking and feeling for leaks, I found very few. What was really interesting with the fan going is how the house depressurised, and if you then went and opened a door or window, the massive whoosh of air that came in to make up the pressure difference.