ProDave

I don't have an issue with technology when there is a need for it. But so many things seem far more complex than they need to be. e.g. My LG ASHP has built in timer functions, but I found it so complicated to work out how to use them, I did not, and contrived the timing functions to work from a perfectly ordinary central heating time clock, something most people understand. Don't get me started on electric panel heaters and LOT20 (an EU thing and god knows why it seems that is still all you can buy in the UK? ) I fitted several for customers and many I removed after just a few days or weeks as the average non tech savvy UK consumer just could not understand the complicated menu needed to be mastered just to turn an electric panel heater on and off. Computers and phones are all well and good and they serve us well. BUT when you get a new computer or a new phone, remember the hours / days you spend getting it all as you like it? That is why I rarely upgrade such things, preferring to keep them in use long after most people tell me they are obsolete, and when I do upgrade it is a larger jump rather that regular updates for something just a little bit better. Home automation would make me shudder, what of one bit went wrong? How easy would it be to replace that bit and quickly get it reconfigured exactly as it was, even if this happened after 10 years when it is likely your old one is obsolete and the new replacement is not the same so not a drop in replacement?

Looking at the last picture it looks like the top of the door is too far out of the frame and it looks to be so across it's whole width (though the picture does not extend to the hinge end) So surely it is the hinges that need adjusting top and middle hinge pulled in to the frame.

I would tile under the door lining personally. If new build fit door linings after tiling. If existing cut bottom of door linings off. Same with skirtings, don't tile up to them, tile up to bare wall with expansion gap left and fit (refit) skirtings to cover perimiter expansion gap.

WHO is asking for the EICR to be revised? Normally when new work is done, either an EIC or MWC is issued and usually both will have the limitation the testing done only covers the circuits added or altered. If it is e.g. the local council asking for an EIC for instance for a rental property, they seem to make up their own rules regarding validity and even who can issue them, completely different to that set out in BS7671 Wiring regs

Then I would tell your architect that any revised plans MUST uses that long established access, and his job is to make a layout work using that access before you go to planning again.

Lots of issues here. Does the plot yet have PP? even if it is not what you actually want, there is talk of a different entrance without the visibility requirement. Does that access actually exist physically? Has the revised plan with the relocated access been submitted? Has it been refused? We had a similar issue that planning tried to impose a 90 metre visibility splay and require us to demonstrate control over that. This if course would be impossible as much of it was over neighbours land. The issue was solved when I found a nearby recent application on the same road that was passed with only a 60 metre visibility requirement, and no requirement to demonstrate control over it. I asked the planners to justify why our plot required different visibility requirements. They could not. So ours got passed with the same requirements as the other nearby permission. And here is the thing, NOBODY has ever checked it. So search other passed applications nearby and find one with less visibility requirement. The issue of the boundary not matching the edge of the road. Out solicitor brought this up when we bought our plot. In our case when the land last change ownership it was accessed by a private road with the boundary of the plot being the edge of the private road. The road had since been adopted. Our solicitor was meticulous to verify the public road now adopted is indeed in the same place as the previous private road, otherwise a ransom strip situation might have applied.

Well you have plenty to play with, reduce the ceiling height in the rooms below to a more normal (and easier to build) 2400 and that's an additional 360mm to play with in the loft conversion which will solve all your problems of joist depth, staircase rise etc.

I disagree. I have 13 steps to rise our 2440 room height plus the 300mm joist thickness, and the rise of each stair was still less than maximum. Or do English regs give you a smaller maximum rise than Scottish? What is your ceiling height of the room below?

My take is RJ45's are tedious to terminate, so I didn't terminate them all. I just terminate them and put them into use as needed. Just make sure there are plenty to all rooms where you think you will need them AND where you don't. A good place to hide them until you find a use for them in in a service void next to 13A sockets. If you need one pop out the adjacent socket box and fish for it. So far I have only put 2 into use, but I don't have cameras etc. Almost every thing works on wifi.

Shorten the stairs. You have 14 steps there it should easily be possible to get that to 13 and possibly even to 12 (depending on your lowered ceiling height below) by using the maximum rise per stair. Then the maximum pitch to give you the steepest , shortest stair allowed.

Try dowsing rods and have a walk around

Is 1.8M enough over the stairs? I thought it was 2M on the centreline of the stairs (perhaps that is only Scotland?)

So you have your neighbours soakaway in you plot? Where is YOUR soakaway going?

It is what has been reported before. When he rebuilt his house he probably got a proper SAP assesment and got a good score. Then when he got the heat pump, someone did a tick box RDSAP completely ignoring any documentation given to him, and making a guess at what he thought was the construction of the building. It angers me that this happens. We have a house now with EPC A94 and the good rating is borne out by the cheap bills. But that is valid for 10 years from when it is issued. I fear, if we need to sell the house and that 10 years has expired, we will be forced to get a new EPC and if the system still uses the ridiculous tick box / guess system and ignores the proper data, then we might no longer be an A. As he says the system is broken, well and truly broken.

I wired a house next to an airfield and a planning condition was no vents in the windows facing the runway and instead sound attenuated vents were placed in the side walls. But I did not do the work so have no details.