ProDave

Front edge and left side edge will want flashing. Rear edge will have a small overhang for gutter. The edge adjoining the garage will not be flashed in. Far too complicated. There will be a small gap and the fact rain will run down the wall does not matter. Snow here sticks to the 45 degree tiled roof so no amount of slope will stop it sitting on this roof.

Photo time First beam hoisted and fixed (not properly for final fixing) That's at 5 degree slope, front is about 300mm higher than back. It does not look as ridiculous as I first feared, although it is above the eaves, it only slightly breaks the line of the tiles. Joists will span sideways at 400mm centres to a similar beam the other side and that will be supported by 3 posts. The two side beams will be doubled up and I will brace these overhangs back to the posts on the garage side. I might try the front just a little higher before I decide. the posts won't get cut to length until the very end. And this is why it needs to be so high. There is presently 12cm clearance under the rear beam. We need to do a trial demount before committing to this height because jacking it up takes weight off the springs and the truck rises, so we need to make sure there is enough height to do that.

It's a single slope so no "ridge" At my present 5 degree ground level mock up that will put the front of the car port just over 300mm higher than the back. I need 3.2m clearance at the back, that will make it 3.5m clearance at the front. That is going to be above the eaves height of the garage it is joining to so it is a question of will it look ridiculous or not. I hope to get a mock up later and take a picture. The length of the roof will be 6 metres. I was hoping to find a roof material supplier that can do 6M in one run without joints. I might be over optomistic there. If not I will spec the overlap as a bit more than normal, but as I say not the end of the world if a little rain leaks. If it is windy enough to blow some rain up the joint, it will be lashing in at the open rear of the car port anyway. Re coatings. I hope to get them supplied to the length I need so nothing needs cutting, like I did with my sun room roof. That has given no problem so I will look up what make it was and they will be my favourite all else being equal.

Back again. Good job I built the rest of the house quicker than this car port. So I have the 2 posts adjacent to the garage up, and have some lengths of 9 by 2 C24 and starting to mock up how it will actually work. My first question is what is the minimum fall I can get away with on a box profile steel roof. Bearing in mind this is a car port and if it's too low, any leakage e.g. at a joint is not a disaster like it might be on a proper roof over a building. My initial on the ground mock up suggests no more than 10 degrees and I would like it as low as 5 degrees. I am sure any roof supplier would say that is too low, but I have to build this quite tall and I am trying to avoid the front edge being ridiculously high once the back edge is at the required height. Pictures later when I hopefully have made some progress.

There is so much talked about H&S that defies logic. e.g I was working in my own capacity fixing an outside light on a large property. Because of the height, I had my ladder tied becuase it made me feel safe. At the same time a firm was doing repairs elsewhere on the building. One guy wearing a high viz vest decided he needed to have words with me. He started with asking why I had tied my ladder, like it was any of his business. Then he asked why I was not wearing a hard had. When I pointed out there was no work above me so nothing likely to land on my head, but YOU re not wearing a hard hat and I might drop a screwdriver on you, he walked off in huff.

I would HOPE if I ever needed an EPC after 10 years, I could go back to the original company (if they still exist) and ask them to re issue the same EPC, if they still have the data on file.

Any information on how people that self built a really good house and got a good EPC with a full SAP. How are they getting on if wanting to sell after >10 years and need to get a new EPC in order to sell. Are they forced to use the rdsap system and end up with lots of bad assumptions and get a poor EPC?

One of my more unusual jobs was to wire a very remote public toilet. The wiring consisted of a 12V wind turbine and a small solar panel to charge a 12V battery that ran a small low power fan to ventilate the composting tank, and a small 12V light and switch. Building control still wanted an EIC for the work, even though as far as I am concerned it does not come under BS7671

Not a solution for this case, but certainly a suggestion for others reading this and planning ahead. Just get the electricity supply moved ONCE to a kiosk at the boundary of the plot. It never needs moving again. You just run your own cable from the kiosk to the house. Job done.

I have just lit the stove. What a change from last week. 7 degrees here today.

That's a big compromise from what you want. Have you considered appealing the refusal?

SSE used to fit them by default so for a while it was more likely you would find one of these than no isolator. The smart meter killed that, as short sightedness means no isolator built in.

The white thing with a screwdriver slot. Push in with a flat blade screwdriver and turn 90 degrees to the right. the "1" in the window should change to a "0" It is then safe to remove the terminal cover by unscrewing the flat head screw. You usually find under the first cover is a second cover protecting the still live incoming terminals. I think it is a real shame this isolator switch facility was mot included with the design of smart meters.

And very often an allen head screw. I bet you don't have a proper double insulated allen driver designed for this job? BUT show us a front picture of the meter, I think that might be a half turn isolator switch on the front, that white thing. If so you can turn the output off, verify with a proper meter that it is really off and you are go to go.

Be careful. A FIT system is registered with the design power. If you add to it, there is a complex way of declaring the addition and only a portion of what is generated is then paid. You could add extra panels and another inverter that is completely separate to the existing system, the procedure for that is a lot less complicated.