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nod last won the day on June 3

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  1. We came in at 830m2 doing most things ourselves Our build was a traditional build We are getting ready to start a second build While I’ve nothing against timber Frame It does work out quite a bit more expensive
  2. Most of the merchants have multi finish in stock now
  3. You should be able to get multi finish I was talking to the rep yesterday He was saying that production is back to normal Depending on how experienced you are at plastering You can get all your floating done Then damp the walls down before you skim Years ago we would float a full house out and go and board the next one while the joiners would put the skirts and arcs on It was unheard of to fit skirtings to skimmed walls
  4. Our Cil guy was pretty clear Bringing on heavy machinery would constitute a start Unless it was for digging soil samples cutting trees down was ok While we wasn’t allowed to to demolish a building they where ok with us stripping the flares off the roof
  5. Yep simple to pick out UPVC are a nightmare to sort out
  6. The conditions should be nowhere near as damp as a cellar Ive damp proofed barns like yours with a membrane and no drain Remember to fill each hole drilled with sealer before knocking in the plug Also your plugs should be set out with the dot and dab in mind 300 apart vertical 600 across Good luck
  7. Sounds like a plan This is a cellar I did last summer Similar to to your plan With a perimeter drain around the edge We use a 50 mil I stud stood 15 mil off the walls
  8. We have recently sealed some lifts before putting a ceiling in below Hears a couple of pictures We put a band of acoustic sealer around the perimeter and trapped the membrane with 35 mil angle shot fired to the peeling and block work
  9. I think most on here go online Google or YouTube
  10. Plus one with Rus You can’t fill and joint onto timber You could tape and joint Abito PB Just as solid as MDF You can fix directly to it like timber and a bit cheaper than MDF Or you could router a chamfer on the MDF edges to give you a nicer looking finish It all depends on what you are trying to achieve not using PB
  11. Yes no problem Yes you would apply the HP12 directly to the EPS About 3 mil thick Then press the fibre mesh on to the base coat Run a trowel I’ve it then give it a light skim coat of HP12 ( Backing coat) Then after about an hour give it a ver light scratch You can apply a 10-15 top coat any time after 24 hours Hope this helps
  12. If your asking can you render under the dpc onto the eps The answer is yes I am often asked to do this I normally say put stones or shingle against the render Or if you decide to flag run dpc against the render to flag to leaving about 10 mil sticking up
  13. Ah I see the membrane must be above dpc then 😂 No gas membrane on ours
  14. I’m not a fan of trays around the bottom of a building Do you really need a tray at DPC level ? Or was it included by the Architect like ours I decided not to have a perimeter tray for the reason that you have highlighted