Iceverge

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  1. No idea if that’s the right term. Just seemed appropriate. Beautiful house BTW
  2. Hi Geoffrey, How thick are the walls? I had a quick peruse of this paper. https://www.historicenvironment.scot/archives-and-research/publications/publication/?publicationId=16d0f7f7-44c4-4670-a96b-a59400bcdc91 They measured old stone and rubble walls in situ . I didn't read too deeply but it suggests a conductivity of about 0.72 W/mK although they varied to about double this ( I suspect for walls with higher levels of dampness). If you were confident your walls could be kept dry and were say 600mm thick could you expect a U value of 1.2W/m2 K. Well short of the regs but maybe with very high levels of floor and roof insulation, good air-tightness and triple glazed windows you could create a very comfortable home with your exposed stone walls. Failing that, externally insulating would work nicely and allow you to run all your services from the outside-in avoiding conduit or pipes showing inside. If there was no proper footings, insulation wings as shown joining to the external insulation would do the trick. Jonathan
  3. I'm still not 100% as to the layout of your site but on reflection would my plans be inline with what you were imagining?
  4. Hi Bob, Here are our plans. This was the final of many iterations but the fundamentals were. 1. Simple rectangular shape - Cheapest, easiest to build, easiest to make airtight. Less insulation needed as less m2 wall per m2 floor. 2. Water + wet rooms all grouped in one corner. Cheapest, less pipe runs, less waste pipe runs. 3. (almost) All rooms with at least 2 windows to allow for a natural light + cross ventilation etc. 4. Old age proof - Living room can be converted to bedroom and we will have level threshold access ( as per regs ) and an accessible shower room/toilet downstairs. 5. Hip roof to ease the insulation of the eaves and provide a large overhang of the walls. 6. A realistic view of the total number of rooms we'd need and minimising the floor area and house size to this requirement. 7. A balanced handsome exterior. ( although beauty is in the eye of the beholder!) 8. No unnecessary complications. I'll have a quick blast of sketchup and see what I can come up with.
  5. Hi @Amateur bob, What a lovely opportunity. We are in a similar situation in Ireland, currently at first floor level. For reference price wise, we are expecting to pay our builder €230k for taking the house from a field through to pre final interior fit-out for a similar sq meterage. I don't think your build only price is unrealistic given the £/€ rate and the fact you can reclaim VAT in the UK. I did pay a lot of attention to value (amateur)engineering the project however. Obviously profession fees/levies and final fit out will all add up. Couple of questions. 1. What is the maximum ridge height likely to be acceptable to the planners? 2. Is this likely to be a lifetime home? 3. How many bedrooms do you need ? 4. What direction from the house is/are (i) The Farmyard (ii) The nicest Views (iii) the access road 5. Is the farm dirt likely to be earthy or somewhat smellier?!! 6. Will you require a room that could be used as a farm office/study? 7. How proximate are your neighbours? I'll see if a similar house design to ours (below) could be adapted if you like..................................... Cheers, Iceverge
  6. Passive House Mag has a article on this, https://passivehouseplus.ie/magazine/new-build/ireland-s-largest-passive-house-scheme-shows-way-to-nzeb Their quote about the hollow (cavity) blocks was " The use of single leaf walls of hollow blocks – which use some 30 to 40% less concrete than a comparable solid block, and are relatively quick to build with " I assume that as it was commercial development the cost was a deciding factor. Another thing that sprung to mind was the reduced weight of the walls, approx 454kg/m2 for 1m2 of block on flat vs 264kg/m2 for hollow blocks. This could bring savings by reducing the foundations needed.
  7. Thanks v much for all the input. I hope that the blown bead will be pretty resistant to soaking water as well. How about this? Notice I have't extended the tray entirely across the inner leaf to avoid plaster cracking. Thanks@ @joe90
  8. While we're at it, I'll include 2 options for the threshold. One with covered fiberglass grating and one with compacfoam. I'm leaning towards the GRP grating as it looks stronger and more tolerant of onsite shenanigans. Does anyone have any experience of these two choices or something similar?
  9. Here are some Therm Simulations I did. Apologies as it is a mirror image of the above diagram. The inside of the house is on the left in these drawings. The final two pictures probably tell the story best. You can see that without the lightweight blocks the heat soaks much further down into the foundations and subsequently escapes to outside. I found little benefit in going beyond 2 courses of these. Carrying the insulation down into the cavity helped a lot however. 1. WITH LIGHTWEIGHT BLOCKS 2.WITHOUT LIGHTWEIGHT BLOCKS 3.WITH LIGHTWEIGHT BLOCKS 4.WITHOUT LIGHT WEIGHTBLOCKS
  10. 215mm leaf specified by Structural Engineer due to lack of buttressing walls and loadings from precast concrete first floor. Upstairs will be 100/250/100 block/cavity/block. The footprint of the house was designed around these thick walls. Had we needed more space we could have added it in the plans. I ran PHPP with multiple options and was able to achieve 11 kWh/(m²yr) and 8 W/m2 with this amount so I didn't see the need for more. They are lightweight concrete blocks (k value of 0.17 W/(mK)) to help reduce heat loss to the foundations.
  11. Hi All, Welcoming opinions on the below detail. Plaster and Air tightness omitted for now. Aerated concrete blocks shown in light green.
  12. Right, I'll throw my hat in the ring. Its remarkable the things you achieve while your spawn is up at the witching hour sprouting new fangs. I've made a couple of assumptions. External walls 350mm, internal 100mm. All beds in the drawings are 1550x2000 (queen size). I didn't get around to drawing in any storage but I hope the locations I've left will be obvious. I hope you don't mind me changing the upstairs. I've included an extra room here that could be used as an office or sitting room. Failing that, as an extra bedroom should you ever find yourself too old or too drunk, or indeed too old and too drunk to tackle the stairs. Try as I could I wasn't able to fit a bath tub into the family bathroom downstairs at least not in a horizontal orientation. I've included a shower in the upstairs W/C for use with the aforementioned bedroom and as it's opposite the stairs should prove a welcome fallback just in case all lower ones are occupied. As per @Ferdinand suggestion I've endeavoured to extend 3 of the bedrooms into the garden with large doors. And the 45 degree doors seem to have freed up some space @ProDave GROUND FLOOR FIRST FLOOR SOUTH ELEVATION EAST +WEST ELEVATIONS
  13. Hi Hastings, What a lovely project. What is the maximum depth you are prepared to loose from the room? It sounds similar to the Green Building Store retrofit of Stirley farm and I believe MBC have completed a similar project if you look through their facebook photos. They lost a lot of floor space however. How sound are the external walls? Might they be able to take a perimeter ring beam bolted to the stone with compacfoam or similar to create a thermal break? The joists could be hung from this and the external walls then internally insulated (carefully) with a breathable insulation like wood-fiber or lime hemp?