Iceverge

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Iceverge last won the day on September 27 2020

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  1. An important part of glazing is thermal comfort. Someone in the passive house movement (cult!🤣) figured 4 deg was the maximum difference between adjoining surfaces in a house for maintaining a scientifically calculated level of comfort. The attached image I found in a Smartwin doc suggests that for almost all of the UK double glazing is sufficient to achieve this. However, I challenge you to source a suitably high quality double glazing supplier that the price uplift to triple glazing isn't marginal.
  2. Sounds fine. If it was me I'd tape the kit externally first making sure your windows and all penetrations are sealed to the SIPS. Then make a DIY blowerdoor fan. Depressurise the House and check for leaks coming into the building and rectify. This will assure your windtight layer. Then apply the external membrane, no need to tape. The membrane will be over the tape protecting them from any leaks that come through your cladding/rainscreen. Then apply the internal PIR. Tape all joints and tape the PIR to all penetrations and repeat your DIY blowerdoor depressurisation. This will assure your airtight/VCL layer. Doing this method will protect your structure from moisture and ensure that the wall performs to its designed parameters.
  3. Use 200MM Graphite EPS. Worked out less than 1/2 the price of 150mm PIR for us.
  4. Caution using multiple airtightness/VCL layers. It's not a reliable way of getting a good blowerdoor score as you'll lightly get the result that corresponds to your best layer only and the others will be redundant. In doing it you will increase your chance of trapping moisture in the wall with all the associated ramifications. Your cost of materials and labour will increase too. You need a good air tightness layer somewhere in the structure of the wall. Normally in this neck of the woods that's placed towards the interior of the majority of the insulation. That means that you need a windtightness layer to the exterior of the insulation if it is of a permeable type to avoid wind blowing through it. Less of a issue with SIPS EPS etc. What is your wall buildup?
  5. As usual it depends. The less energy your house takes to heat the more of a difference it will make. Going to double glazing would increase our annual heat demand by 30%. On a poorly built house this would represent a far lower % difference. The numbers can only tell so much. A cheap double or triple glazed window will leak air, catch when opening, and fall off the hinges in a few years. Whimsically there needs to be a point at which you draw the line at where the inner accountant gets to rule all. Otherwise you'd be mental to install windows turning on the light is far more economical!
  6. UVC on cheap electricity for water. Fan heater for heat. Spend your time and effort on airtightness insulation and mechanical ventilation. Your heat demand will be so low then heating may not be needed.
  7. Does she run indoctrination courses ? might send the mrs...........
  8. How much noise do you expect to have to deal with? That cavity wall may not perform as well as you think (although it will be very good) and will require chasing etc to get your wires in. I would lean towards a metal wall system. Have a play with the below. https://www.british-gypsum.com/white-book-system-selector/partitions
  9. I think it was a coil in tank thermal store. These need to be kept very hot to produce usable amounts of DHW with consequent high losses. Not really suitable for low energy houses. Shame really as I like the simplicity.
  10. good point. If you want to store a given amount of energy a larger tank will loose less heat per kWh stored than a small one. You could also add a second tank if space or floor loadings are an issue. I reckon our 300l cylinder @70deg does 4 x 15 minute showers with no reheat. System boiler, 300l min UVC Thermostatix mixer showers. Maybe allow wiring for a single electric shower if you need it for peace of mind.
  11. Glad to hear it. @Gone West was one of the original blogs I drew much knowledge from over the past 6 years of this process.
  12. Much better option. Not cheap though. I think Peter Stark ( if i remember correctly) used it without any membrane and had passivhaus airtightness. Either I can't use the search correctly or he's disappeared? His blog was very useful. If I had a choice for timberframe I'd use blown in cellulose everytime. It's got a great decrement delay, C02 negative, vastly improves airtightness, is non toxic, leaves little mess to clear up and is cheaper than PIR. If you have good installers It gets into all the nooks and crevices that board and batt insulation can't.
  13. like @Cpd said I would caution putting PIR in a stud wall. it’s a tricky slow job to get right ( which means it almost never is). Add to that the shrinking of timber and board insulation and you’ll have a wall full of gaps and a cold house. Save your builder some heartache and your pocket some cash and use a good quality insulation batt. Doing much to boost U values beyond building regs isn’t near as useful as getting really good airtighness, MVHR and triple glazing. Worrying about the third decimal place in U values (although it is a pastime of mine!) won’t get you a warm house. Good detailing will.