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Iceverge last won the day on September 27 2020

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About Iceverge

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  1. You may have a perfectly well functioning system. Have you lived with MVHR before?The air flow volumes are very low. You shouldn’t feel a breeze unless your face is literally beside the vents. Have you checked/changed the filters?
  2. No experience with this., just seen it online. You can defiantly render onto it directly, with breathable plasters and paint ideally,althought you might be ok with conventional materials given the placement in the structure.
  3. 20mm wood fiber covered directly with skim?
  4. @Adsibob What about wheelchair visitors?
  5. That's your external moisture barrier. At the moment the moisture from the house can escape between the joints in the kooltherm into the roof and get trapped in there by the sarking which is cold and cause condensation. Carefully taping the joints in the kooltherm should help, No it's an approved detail for permeable roof coverings. In my opinion the membrane is more likely to rip and you'll need to make sure that the builders leave the correct droop under the battens. I'd put it under the counter-battens personally. Given your other two options are having radiators that will be never used or cold rooms I think you're going to have to compromise somewhere. Fair enough. I'd be interested to see some real world pics of those windows when they come. They sound nice. Out of interest where are you planning on running services on the ceilings and walls?
  6. What is your plan for a vapour control layer in the above buildups? I note the membrane is floating between the batten and counter batten in all cases. Why here and not below the counter-batten? As for the heating probably not but impossible to say without knowing the specific situation. If you're doubtful just run pipes anyway for rads. Why double glazed and not triple?
  7. No issues fitting it in. It was obviously the expansion vessel that caused the issue in transit.............
  8. It's a part of the issue, mostly in room in roof designs. It's difficult to get a handle on this without playing with some kind of overheating calculator. The effect of mainly poor glazing choices become more obvious then.
  9. I guess your first buildup was something like this. I calculated a U value of 0.188 and a phase shift (decrement delay) of 6.7hrs. This isn't a great number and may have added to your overheating. A better option for heat protection. Similar U value but a phase shift of 12.8hrs. Notice the much less extreme swing for internal surface temperature in the summer. This makes overheating easier to control. On a cold winters day both roofs will perform the same against the cold. The website I used was. It's worth having a play. It includes this importance sentence in the blurb there too. "For a proper summer heat protection, materials with a high heat storage capacity should be used, ideally in combination with an outer insulation. In addition, the direct sun exposure through windows must be reduced to an acceptable level by shading means, e.g. outer blinds, roller shutters or sun sails"
  10. Yup. It was just one of the first ones in Googled. Sorry for any confusion.
  11. Out of interest how was the roof insulated in your previous home? Do you know what materials were used as different types of insulations have very different behaviours in heat even with the same u value. Do you have any plans of the house you're proposing to share?
  12. Usually in this scenario it's like this All waste water pipework is run straight down through the concrete base and then horizontally towards the perimeter of the building to an access junction. Is the only reason you're planning to put the slab above the insulation, to allow you the bourgeois pleasures of randomly building concrete blocks whenever and where ever your heart desires?!!! When our place was built all pipes were taken straight down into the middle of the hardcore layer below the DPC with 110mm waste pipe and then outside to an AJ. They were left well proud of the final level of the floor and cut down later. They used normal 90deg bends, I gather these would have been better. They also Tee'd some joints under the floor. In hindsight it would have been more robust to run each drain outside individually. Soil pipe is very cheap. And join them at one of these It would have made it possible to rod every drain properly should they ever get blocked. Do you have your shower trays/formers picked out?
  13. Similar topic here a couple of weeks ago.