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Thedreamer last won the day on October 15 2020

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  1. Ooops. I see it there in the last bullet point.
  2. That is surprising as I could no reference to it being required under Scottish Building Regulations, just an example of a system that could be used? 3.14.11 Mechanical ventilation and systems The design, installation and commissioning of a mechanical ventilation system should mean that it is capable of performing in a way that is not detrimental to the health of the occupants of the building and when necessary, is easily accessible for regular maintenance. Very few dwellings are air-conditioned but the use of continuously operated balanced supply and extract mechanical ventilation systems and of heat recovery units are becoming more popular as a result of the need to conserve energy and reduce greenhouse gas emissions. As building are constructed to lower infiltration rates, mechanical ventilation may be necessary to deliver the effective ventilation needed to provide a healthy living environment. Simpler and more efficient systems are steadily being introduced that augment, complement and/or improve the natural ventilation of dwellings.Where infiltration rates of less than 5m3/h/m2@ 50 Pa are intended, such a system should be used. The following are examples of mechanical systems that will aid ventilation in a dwelling: continuously operating balanced supply and extract mechanical ventilation systems. When combined with heat recovery these installations are known as Mechanical Ventilation and Heat Recovery (MVHR) systems. Installations should be in accordance with the guidance in BRE Digest 398. In hot weather windows can be opened to cool the dwelling while the system is not operating. Openable windows may also be needed for fire escape purposes centralised mechanical extract ventilation (MEV) installed in accordance with the guidance in BRE Digest 398 where the infiltration rate is not less than 3m3/hr/m2 @ 50 Pa, decentralised mechanical extract ventilation units (dMEV), in rooms where there is likely to be high humidity such as kitchens, bathrooms and shower rooms. A dMEV should be designed, installed and commissioned to provide minimum continuous extraction rates in accordance with the following table:
  3. Is that correct? I believe its just to have mechanical ventliation.
  4. Designer/draftman & structural engineer combo. Then managed on a subcontractor basis. Two joiners made the kits from the materials I ordered. I had never order any building materials before I started. You are here asking questions, just a lot to learn. We all did at some point! Home builder bible is a worthwhile investment for a tenner, provides a good breakdown of what is required to build a house. My approach was to get the site serviced (utility, water, access) and have a clear idea of what foundations would be required. I then knew that unexpected major costs were eliminated. See above on the book. I've kept a blog here. I kept mine going from the start to end and have tried to be open and honest with costs. But lots of others here if you are planning on other building styles.
  5. If budget is tight I would avoid going with a big company like Scotframe. Much cheaper to have a kit cut on site by joiners. I considered Scotframe and a few others, but the problem is, you end of paying all their overheads and profit margin. What are you expected costs for foundations and utilities?
  6. £13,000 was the total materials, including the trusses. £9,000 in labour (two joiners). £750 for telehandler. This was the Summer of 2018, cheap timber prices then. This project is too bespoke to mark up. But adopting this approach, managing on a contractor basis, being careful with prices and applying for any grants along the way has resulted in a lot of equity.
  7. I decided to go for a stick build kit for our self build, a few years ago. I found the large timber frame companies to be very expensive. It cost £13k for the materials to build the kit. Included within that is £5k for engineered attic trusses from Pasquill. Labour was £9k, for making the kit, erecting it and also a suspended ground floor. Other expensive items were a steel beam for the vaulted ceiling and three Kerto beams for the middle ridge part. I also had to hire a telehandler with a truss jib for two weeks that cost around £750. By the end of that we looked like this (excluding the velux windows).
  8. In properties insulated to a good standard is there any scope to heat a house to higher temperature during off peak times and let the temperature slowly drop before re-heating again. Is this an efficient strategy with an air source heat pump and UFH. Can people live in variance of say 23c to 18c? I adopt this approach with my stove, which is my cheap heat input and my electric heating bill this winter is a few pence. This rare electric heating boost from a cheap oil electric radiator was only needed due to 1c temperature over a few overcast days. I know people on here have better insulation, airtightness and ventilation than me, therefore would expect this to be achievable.
  9. Octopus fitted a smart meter on Skye for my parents in law a couple of months ago.
  10. All the stuff is now moved to other locations, but my recycling centre during the build.
  11. Just the shed build! Unless it's my next self build in 2045.
  12. I like the waney edge cladding, I would like to use that style for our build.
  13. I built this with my father in law from pallet wood. The bridge was built from heavier concrete non returnable pallets. I have lots of projects planned with my remaining building material in 2022. A small shed is on the list. I had no skip for the self build, therefore it was down to me to process and take small amounts to the landfill when necessary, mainly small plastic waste. I estimate this to be ten or twelve sheep food bags for the entire build.