Dave Jones

its better to leave 5' of trunk, it makes pushing them over and getting the roots out that much easier. If you wanted the stump out that is.

to give you an example, our chippey has a battery 12" dewalt chop saw (2 x 54v) he says it has more power than the mains version.

i believe there is a minimum bearing which the 1/3rd cut cant breach. If you havent ordered pre-made trusses then your structural engineer will have specifed the birdsmouth.

you can use that argument if the blending valve seized open at max temp which is the same analogy as both the ASHP, controller, 3 way and the circ pump all failing at the same time. Fitted and warrantied by ECODAN approved installer so if its ok for the manufacturer its ok for me. I agree a DIY solution can choose multiple failsafe's should you wish.

totally get you. Trying to keep focus on the big picture while dealing with arseholes is one of the the more common challenges in the building ive found! I can't bite my lip though so we either have a row and get it sorted then and there or they gone. Last week was skip lorry driver who couldn't get at the skip and instead of asking shouted from the cab 'move that lot out the way im in a hurry', I laughed at him instead of having a row and ignored him. When he came back the next morning completely different attitude and I was only too happy to help. Win some lose some!

There is actually. The heat exchanger is controlled by a valve (bit like a blending valve that doesn't blend) so the UFH loop water tank gets heated to the set temp then clicks off all the while being circulated through the loop. This is an ECODAN system and JOULE cylinder installed earlier this year by an MCS approved firm. Maybe you have got an old system ?

yes they do exactly that. No need for blending with ASHP. Ours the same.

ask whoever made the drawing.

All of them being in one place and labelled is certainly faster and easier 👍

Bradstone make quions , cheaper than real thing and you would have to look quite hard to see the difference.

No to the deposit. They will get 30 days to pay on their materials if not more. Be careful paying monthly , who decides what’s finished ? Id set easier to identify stages. Foundation , upto dpc, first lift scaff etc who is project managing the build ? They are key.

He didn’t bother is the point.

Depends on your OCD but i HATE isolators all over the place . Kitchens, bathrooms, utility etc etc i had the sparky wire every single one in the plant room. Added a bit of cost but a much cleaner look.

I’d expect the attitude to be ‘your missing xyz do you want me to get them and bill you’? It’s not like they are not at the plumbers merchant every day ! I don’t put up with that nonsense from trades and tell them straight, if they walk they walk. You shouldn’t have to with decent ones .

I’m sold on shadow line skirt as well as zero skirt just a line in some parts. I then saw an awesome gable detail on costrest which mimics shadow line on the whole side of the house. the issue to overcome is I want to mount the fascia (it will be hardwood probably 8x2 with a slot routered in it 1.5 m” from the top and sane bottom) flush to top of the tiles so you can’t see them. A normal gable ladder won’t work as the tile sits on top and would be visible. I’m thinking use a dry virge to weatherproof the roof and then mount the shadow fascia (it even sounds cool) over the top of it somehow. here’s a pic of similar