Dave Jones

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About Dave Jones

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  1. see if the farmer will let you bury the pipe in his field the other side of the verge. Even if you drop him £5k cash for the effort still be quids in.
  2. Once you have dug it out you will have an idea from the soil you need to remove. Probably best to get a man with a digger in to do the lot in a day.
  3. obviously not used the factory braced ones.
  4. buy them ready made, the brickies will thank you as they wont have to level up the sides of the windows. They are dirt cheap and are held in with straps built into the brick courses.
  5. need to make sure you leave 50mm gap from the top of the insulation to the underside of the breathable membrane under the tiles. Many make the mistake of pushing the insulation between the rafters as high as it will go which is wrong and can lead to issues.
  6. a cold roof with zero ventilation. good luck breathing in all the mold spores that will inevitably grow.
  7. dig down 250mm min, 150mm of type 1 compacted followed by the finish of your choice. as for slope follow the lay of the land and flatten out / retain anywhere where it will ground out the car.
  8. just be sure you have the completion cert in hand before you move in otherwise its still a building site and they may not pay out.
  9. sorry looks awful. electric toilet with a visible cistern... not my cup of tea at all.
  10. Assuming you have vehicle access then a 3 tonner can ream 3m no problem
  11. Just be aware of creating a cold roof with with no ventilation can cause problems
  12. I use https://subframes.co.uk/ not only do they provide insulation to to the reveals more importantly they are square which means you aren’t relying on the Brickie’s 4 foot level for door openings.
  13. Can’t see a tunnel but if there is and a fire engine can’t get through it I can’t see how building control can sign it off as It won’t comply with fire regs.