Dave Jones

the plate is on the ASHP side of the 3 port.

ours is the same. im amazed just how filthy the main MVHR filters get. i swop them monthly.

ive got the Zehnder MVHR heat exchanger and its utterly useless. Nowhere near enough air flow to make any noticeable effect. The Panasonic fancoils on the other hand are amazing.

only issue with this, you need the arm in exactly the same plumb position every time you want to take a reading otherwise its out. clamp a stick on the dozer blade and attach it if grading is better option.

the smaller the machine the harder it is to grade. A 14 tonner can make a novice look like a pro! Try using the dozer blade and track backwards, its much easier than tracking forwards. Take a small amount each time and you soon have a nice flat surface. Now straddle that 'track' you made and go again. Keep the bucket full and crowded close in for extra weight and compaction then drive over it all to track it in.

this is my biggest regret on our build. Island hob with pop up recirc. Wish I had taken the air tightness hit and ducted it out under the block and beam. Will definitely do this next time. We have MVHR but you dont want to fill the ductwork with kitchen stink, especially greasy type stink.

not so, ,I have plate and the ASHP is the only pump in the loop. Agree the better COP is around 10% but it also gives the option of multiple tanks if capacity is needed and they are cheapish bog standard cylinders rather than coiled ones. they can also be in physically different locations in the house to suit space.

perhaps you could draw out a simple raft solution to show whats required and how its built ? SE is an extra cost that otherwise may not be needed at all in a build which may tip the scale. On the other hand if your on bad ground and need piling etc it may become financially viable, bloody trees everywhere these days! warranty only has to spot one in the distance and adds extra 10m of depth!!

We wrapped a vertical DPC around the whole perimeter of our house exactly because of this issue. costs peanuts and does away with the '150 below damp' problem as it effectively shifts the DPC 225mm higher than normal. Allows for a full level threshold all the way round the house if needed. The air vent in your picture is to vent the underside of the block and beam so nothing to worry about with water going down it. Soaking the DPC on a continuous basis may be an issue though.

be hard to pass SAP calcs with gas. You will have to spend a LOT on other measures to bring the score up. Not viable really.

there is also the option of plate heat exchanger whilst more expensive gives a better COP.

if you think any of the conditions are unreasonable and they wont remove them simply appeal, its free.

i built mine in flemish. a word or warning .. CUTS !!!! Each brick has to be cut twice to make 2 halfs (cutting them in middle is too long), queen and king closers.. There are commerical places that charge £1ish per brick to cut. I rather like the linear bricks I saw in bruges, planners would probably have a fit though if we tried to use them https://brickability.co.uk/bricks/linear-brick

by pro they mean 3-phase i think.

it helps that the 'outide' air the dryer is using to drive the heatpump is allways around 21 so its not working hard. asked the mrs and she said a full load of towels is an hour tops.