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PeterW last won the day on March 26

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About PeterW

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  1. It’s bizarre ..! I reckon when I did ceilings, we had about a dozen staples holding a 10mm 2.4/1.2 board onto the ceiling before we took the board lifter down and put the rest in at 150mm centres. Used Jointstik on the edges and it’s not moved since installing and no cracks.
  2. Don’t panic. Better at this stage as nothing for water to hold in when it rains. Once they start, the bigger issue is when any fibre wall insulation gets wet as it takes months to dry out.
  3. I’ve got a BeA air stapler you can have if you want it. It is what I used and wouldn’t use anything else. Heavy bit of kit, you need a compressor but you can get away with a £70-80 one. Benefit of a stapler is you can put a lot of fixings in very quickly as long as the compressor can keep up.
  4. Have you factored in the recommissioning of the old one..? Will need a decent strip and service and potentially burner refurb if it’s been sat as it will have old oil inside it for 18 months by the time you get it to being installed. Other thought is can you build a boiler house somewhere now so it’s installed and providing heat to the floor to dry out any slab and keep the building warm, then swap for an ASHP at a later date as suggested ..?
  5. Btw @Russell griffiths I’m not joking ..! If the pipe serves a bathroom or toilet then using the hot feed to the room to the cistern will pull 4 litres of water from the tank. A 15mm pipe 20m long holds about 2.5 litres so a flush will mean you’ve got hot at the tap when the cistern has refilled.
  6. Looked at them but can’t get them for heat pump coils so discounted it otherwise would have done. Telford do them in various sizes.
  7. Clay breaks easier than plastic, and if you want really tough plastic pipe then there are products such as PolySewer that is reinforced. @AnonymousBosch you probably need to do the bedding first, then just put a bucket of bedding over the top of each joint once you have set your levels
  8. @Russdl You get about 5 square metres to the tonne from planings so a 3m wide track 60m long will need about 40 tonnes in total. Prices vary from £7-10/tonne. £6-700 should sort your track as a JCB is about £100 a day, Bomag about the same.
  9. Planings are ok if you get a big roller. You need a 3 tonne bomag or bigger preferably, a JCB to scalp the top off and then spread the planings and preferably a warm day ..!! If the planings are warm then they bind better and don’t move.
  10. Ok so if that is brick and block, concrete tiles and nothing high end then I think you can get there for £100k but it will be tight. First thing you need to do is get an estimator to run the plans and give you the worst case number. Then start to scrub it. From that, start looking for trades. You cannot afford a main contractor as their margin will be 12-15% and that’s lost cost. Start looking for bricklayers, ground workers and joiners now, check for recommendations if possible and steer clear of the TrustaCheckmyRoofer type sites. How close to the site do you live ..? You’ll need to be on site every day, even if it’s only from 6-8pm to tidy up, sweep up and spot the problems. You’ll need to have a good grasp of google to buy at the best price, and make friends with your local builders merchant. As @AliG says, start looking all electric and an ASHP and UFH may be your friend. Upstairs will need Rads, even if it’s just to make sure it’s heated and you don’t have the money for OTT insulation. And above all, you’re going to need a lot of stamina and a sense of humour ..!!!
  11. 20mm base coat will work at 75-80mm but needs sealing if you’re not going to put a wear course on the top. It also needs edging correctly and if it’s going to take load of a wagon then it also needs to have a 150mm fully compacted sub base. 300m at 3m wide is going to cost you north of £35-40k done properly - what’s your budget ..??
  12. OK .. so £100k is going to be tight, and that’s without knowing the design either. How practical are you..? And what can you and family/significant others do to help..? First thing is do you really need 4 bedrooms ..?? Can you get away with 2..? Then split when funds allow ..? Do you have planning permission and what for ..? Does it lend itself to a house of two halves.?? Exterior skin is going to cost money, can you go for block and render ... and render when you have the money ..? If you have plans then post them up - let’s see what you are up against.
  13. No - a rest bend is a reinforced long radius bend with a full shoe. I wouldn’t combine the two stacks as you have them. I would bring the IC further down the side of the house, then bring the first floor stack in the utility corner down and into the IC main run. Then bring the utility stack into its own (potentially stub stack) built into a false wall and run that into the IC separately. Finally, the right side (stairs/store) stack as you’ve drawn it goes into the next IC connection, picking up the shower (???) in the utility. Means a single blockage doesn’t create a backup in the whole system.