PeterW

Wood Finishes Direct have Osmo Clear UV Protection Oil with 20% extra in the 2.5l tin for £63 https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/osmo-uv-protection-oil

they will but you won’t get your £250 back @Water I’d write off the £250, file the CIL paperwork and walk away ... more hassle than it’s worth chasing the money.

Just remember that a lot of the cheap tariffs aren’t available on 3 phase so you may get stuck on a poor power deal. Also worth looking at the cost of a pair of meters and connections in side by side cabinets. Run the house loads from one, use the other to do garage, garden, lights etc.

Can get 140mm splashbacks in glass in a number of colours.

Zero impact on climate change. It has significant ecology impact though.

They will prosecute under the Forestry Act 1967 for failure to obtain a felling license. Smiled when I read that article as I know the guy who bought the house and who’s commenting..!

Agree entirely. I did one recently where there were brick dormers and dormer cheeks shown on the architects plans, but nothing by way of showing how these could be constructed as this was room in roof and space was at a premium. Changing the dormers to timber framed and lead clad meant they could be built up off doubled up 8x2 rafters, fully insulated with 120mm of PIR in/over the framing. As drawn, they couldn’t be built in brick and block without some serious engineering challenges and compromises to floor space.

I’d fill the whole of the base less 10mm with sharp 20mm gravel, it will drain but won’t provide a “home” for anything. Then use 50mm jablite on battens and it will keep it “warm enough”. Other option would be to get some big bags of vermiculite and mix it 10:1 with OPC and a little water and pack it between the joists. It will have a fair insulation value if you don’t pack it too much, but will probably be better than having an air gap.

Highly unlikely given the expansion of screed per mm/C change and you’re talking about a crack or slot that is 1-2mm at most and is then filled. At approx 10 millionths mm/degree, a 10m slab will expand less than 2mm for 20c rise which tbh would be absorbed at the edges if at all.

Goalpost or a pair of new uprights would be fine there - I bet that hardly moves when you take it out. Just check there is no welded joint under the existing stanchion.

Yep - Egger Protect And Egger D4 glue would be my preference too.

OK... benefit of hindsight and also practicality (and you getting a "better floor") I would ask them to lay 22mm Caberdeck at right angles to your current floor, fully glued with D4 glue and screwed to the joists below. 22mm is nothing to lose off doors etc and the staircase should be rectified at their cost anyway. Its a quick and simple fix, should take no more than 2-3 days to do and will give you a seriously strong first floor with zero deflection !

@jimboban overlay will work but not as a direct heat source unless you want to spend a lot on heating ..! If you got another 25mm insulation under the floor then you may be making a tiny dint in the issue ... problem is that stone floors like solid surfaces so you need to add something like Fermacell floor over the top so you’re looking at losing 60-70mm overall. Are you set on a stone surface ..?

Are you sure it’s 0.1l/s as that seems low..? Hampshire has a 0.072l/s/m2 rain rate at T500, and 0.018 for the T1 range which is just less than 1l/s for normal peak rainfall. This would mean you need an attenuation tank of about 2000 litres before the hydro brake. That doesn’t seem right ..?

@Sjk I’ve been looking at this and I’m missing a bit of information ..! What limit have the sewerage company put on your outlet, and what’s the total roof area ..?