PeterW

Not sure I follow here - solid concrete coursing bricks are 65x215x100. On the corner that would mean the corner comes out 185mm to then next block, or just shy of half a block which is fine for bond.

Twyford Galerie Plan and is open at the bottom but not by much.

This is where I differ on view and prefer micro inverters as they just export 230VAC to the house and don’t need anything else than a length of standard T&E from the roof to a suitable connection point in the plant room.

Legally you cannot install septic tanks any more. They have to be treatment plants as the sewage treatment is done in the tank rather than the leach field.

If you build a pillar in each corner it really ties in as you get a 225mm overall rather than 100mm I would cut to fit into the corners properly - it’s not difficult and the inside will be invisible anyway when you line with insulation etc

Yes but it’s only as strong as the fixings - how do you plan to attach it to the bricks ..?

I’d be storing a minimum of 10,000 litres and taking it off with a floating pickup - they sit about 8-10” down and you get none of the top surface or the silt. You will need filtration - @jamieled has just done his and it looks really tidy. Add a 500 litre accumulator after this and you’ll have plenty of water.

None of the above ..??? Steel up the middle would do it if it’s false but I’d want it a fair way down the cavity.

They can only charge for a property when it is classed as a rateable hereditament under the various acts. I think you asked something similar previously

The semi-peds don’t take any weight they just support themselves and cover the pipes. Can you not find the stud ..?? Other option is to cut a hole behind where the new sink/pedestal will be going and feed a noggin into the wall. Can be done, and surprisingly easy to do. Other option is to cut the wall from behind where it is being fitted and retrofit noggins that way.

yes they do - you’ll get a manhole number and the bottom corner of the map will show the invert level. That is the distance to the top of the pipe from a datum point.

Cut back is fine... You're more likely to get water through the side joints on the windows than the protected heads and lintels.

9m I would put a pier at both ends and then with 5 blocks in between piers - basically build it with any blocks and every 6 along and lay the piers on flat with the returns on the flat also. You could then just infill between the piers. Mediums would be fine too - heavies are a bit overkill.

Just use dry sharp sand before the DPM and then lay the insulation. It won’t move after that.

That sounds about right - 1.225kw was what I calculated it to. Telford will lose about 7.2c in the same 24 hour period. An additional 1.2kwh of heat per day at CoP 2.5 is about £15 a year in additional electricity or £350 over the 25 year life of the cylinder.