PeterW

Long SDS drill .. you can get them up to 1m long in 12mm and 15mm. Drill at a 30 degree angle and put 2 or 3 shorter rods in, then grout in place with cement slurry.

Not on the Beko - it is a combined heater and pump unit. @AdamD they are £130 plus an engineer to fit so you would be cheaper buying a new dishwasher and run a fortnightly cleaner / descaler through it https://www.espares.co.uk/product/es1784148/dishwasher-heater-pump-motor

Spot on job - To set and cure the fire cement it needs heat so I would do a small test burn, then do another a bit warmer.

Appliance City have them in stock

Nail pops - has the board been hit..?

If that is part payment of the invoice presented then it does create a legal precedent so may not be the best approach. @Ralph you may want to ask the plumber to reissue the invoice for the agreed element which you will pay on receipt, and then help them pursue the builder for the works paid through the central contract.

Longest wall at 3.6m is fine - what openings are there in the walls ..?

These are CANBUS controlled - so unless you can find a controller then it’s not a quick fix

IVT uses 0/24v normally on the control pins. Got a better close up of the control connection points on it ..

@davidc have you considered a log gasification boiler and a larger (~3000 litre) TS in an outbuilding and then you can utilise the biomass much better. I would still put a smaller UVC in the main house envelope as the primary hot water source along with the primary solar dump but it would even out your usage. You may find yoh can get RHI for the right set up and also it allows for segregation of heat sources. Your log burner then becomes a smaller focal point / secondary heat source

You don’t need to skim MR plasterboard but you do need to tank corners and where it joins floors etc.

The control system cuts off the temperature when the PCM is all liquid - you can’t overheat them and they have numerous overheat stats to stop damage.

+1 to this - you’ll get no benefit and a TS in a thermally efficient house is also an odd choice, what is heating it ..?

makes no sense. You can’t “overcharge” a Sunamp - when it is full it is full. With a cylinder you can overheat to max the capacity, taking the UVC to 85°C is easily done using your diverter so why not do that ..?

When you do this, wrap a couple of times round above and below where you do the cement with some masking tape and then when it’s dry just peel off - leaves a neat line then