Jump to content

Forums

  1. BuildHub Guide: Information about the site : Introduce Yourself

    1. 9
      posts
    2. Introduce Yourself

      Say Hello, and a little bit about yourself

      29.2k
      posts
  2. Build Design, Planning, Finance and Legal

    1. 12.3k
      posts
    2. Design & Architecture

      All about self build design, both new build and renovation. Discussions on architects and structural engineering, planning permission and building regulations

      45.6k
      posts
    3. 14.1k
      posts
    4. 6.7k
      posts
  3. House Construction & Structural Issues

    1. 37.1k
      posts
    2. 8.3k
      posts
    3. 20.6k
      posts
    4. 18.3k
      posts
    5. 38.1k
      posts
    6. 18.4k
      posts
    7. 3.3k
      posts
  4. Building Trades

    1. 83.4k
      posts
    2. 9.8k
      posts
    3. 25.3k
      posts
    4. 11.4k
      posts
    5. 31.5k
      posts
    6. 6.7k
      posts
    7. 24.5k
      posts
    8. 6.1k
      posts
  5. Environmental, Alternative & Green Building Methods

    1. 4.8k
      posts
    2. 54.6k
      posts
    3. 553
      posts
    4. 4.2k
      posts
    5. 8.4k
      posts
  6. Self Build & DIY: General

    1. 40.7k
      posts
    2. 2.3k
      posts
    3. 2.2k
      posts
    4. 9.7k
      posts
  7. Self Build Regional Groups

    1. 2.6k
      posts
    2. 90
      posts
  • Like what you see..?

    Why don't you sign up and become a member of the community..?

  • Featured Topics

  • Recent Posts

    • Always the case with stoves! Presumably you want to get this up and running before the heating season? The chimney shouldn’t be an issue as long as you have a suitable and properly installed liner. I would be inclined to cover the existing materials rather than cut them back. The regs do allow for combustibles less than 200mm from the flue as long as there is an air gap of 40mm.  
    • Reducing the size of the window would lower the energy input into the room.  
    • Aren’t you having an Aco channel drain along the front of the concrete at the entrance?
    • Thanks for your reply. I do appreciate they are really busy, and not looking for them to come up with the solutions. We are having issues with the B5 compliance, we had contacted the fire service who said they needed to talk to the building control officer. Our officer said to forward the information over to him which we did immediately. This was 2 weeks ago and he is not replying to any of our attempts to contact him, even though he has mentioned the issue to our structural engineer while disusing a different issue. Its cost us money and time. We are now unsure of how to proceed.     Firstly.. Thankyou to everyone that took the time out to respond and apologies for taking so long to say thanks, I Hadn't checked or seen that we had so many responses. I am starting to remember that the admin is one of the reasons I stopped social media. So the update is positive, I think we finally figured out how building control works. We had thought part of their role was in an advisory capacity and no-one, including them would tell us specifically what their role and responsibilities were, who they were accountable too, how the game plays out and what the game rules were, so when they just wouldn't respond to our emails or anyone in the company would answer the phone, and then would make extraordinary demands of us with no other additional information or guidance, we felt like we were being taken on a merry dance. We have since figured out that they are as a general rule NOT working in an advisory capacity, because if you build something they advised on and passed, and something went wrong, they are then liable, which makes perfect sense why they would be reticent to pass on their knowledge. The B5 requirement was a headache because the impression we got was that we HAD to install this HUGE turning area that would dominate our land and involve taking out a lot of trees to produce. This has now been satisfied with a sprinkler system installed in the house, of which a certificate from the company installing is enough and it was this extreme request that was solved with a simple solution that broke the camels back and we figured out the way this particular inspector seems to work. He will throw at us the worst case scenario, we find the simplest solution to solve it and as long as it is reasonable and under someone elses name, he is happy. I know it may sound daft and we are slow learners, but the parameters with which it all operates just isn't written down anywhere and my brain needs to fully understand the system we have to work within, before it can function. Anyhoos...We got there, we submitted our actions and we got the go ahead from building control at the end of last week so WE'RE OFF. Thankyou everyone and I am sure we will be back with more further down the line. 
    • How much concrete is visible outside when the garage door is down?   My garage door will be a sectional door that sits behind the reveals.   My whole ground floor is beam and block at the same level, but the house will be 175 insulation and 50mm screed. The step down into the garage would be 225mm - the thickness of the garage floor concrete slab. So if its 125mm at the back of the garage, then there's 100mm minimum step down.   A.I suggests 100 is the minimum step down for a flat floor, or the floor needs to slope outwards. My approved plans seriously lack detail which is poor.   My drive slopes away from the garage door but there's not much in it. About 70mm over 17m.   The channel is the cavity wall, ill probably fill it with the end of the slab so theres a good strength at the end.    
  • Recent Topics

  • Blog Entries

  • Blogs

×
×
  • Create New...