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That may be because some solid walls are more solid than others. Our 600mm stone walls have a rubble layer in the centre so could lose less heat due to the air surrounding the rubble, than a 600mm solid concrete block wall. The more accurate the data fed into modelling software the more accurate the results. -
Hi, We have put a duct under our foundations to carry electricity cables under the house and then across to the carport. Can we push 15mm pipe through this to have an outside tap there also. I know you cannot mix them on the supply side but am not sure what the rules are once the are into the house. If they cannot be in the same duct once into the garden, could they be in the same duct then split once it is out from under the foundations? Thanks -
Thanks very much all for replying. There's really no excuse for not getting the water sorted. My best mate installs softeners plus treatment units! Must organise a water test asap. The current one is fibreglass, is that acceptable? Aware of the dangers, I think there was a terrible case somewhere in SW England a few years back I think when a tank came through the ceiling. Hence wanting to do something about it. Also it forms some of my motivation of wanting to keep all stored water downstairs in a tanked cupboard with a drain to outside. It was originally a 1950's system with a copper boiler in the Rayburn where all the DHW water went through the rayburn and a direct cylinder. The swap for a newer (but still 2nd hand) rayburn with a steel boiler last year has caused brown water from the hot taps and no doubt corrosion of the boiler. A bodge that needs fixing. Is a pressurised heating circuit much more resilient to corrosion etc than an open vented one with a header tank? I'm fond of the idea of a header tank over expansion vessels as a low maintenance system. Theres an existing W/C with space for a shower if we remove the Copper Cylinder upstairs. Theres a shower in existence downstairs at them moment and a room that could be a bedroom so thats not a huge concern. The cupboard downstairs is 630x950mm x 2650mm high. Its adjacent to an external wall with a void in the floor (used for an open fire bellows originally) That could be used for a new feed to the house. Its also directly below the upstairs W/C. The cupboard is 1.5m from the Rayburn laterally and the 3rd wall backs onto a wall where pipes could easily be routed to the oil boiler. It really is ideally placed but just a little tight. Ok how about this. Well water > Water softener New MDPE pipe routed to direct combi TS + Hep2O cold manifold Rayburn > TS Oil > TS TS > Downstairs Rads only. TS > Blending valve > Hep2O manifold. CH to be operated by Temp switch near the bottom of the TS to ensure that CH doesn't cannibalise DHW. If CH needed just fire the boiler or Rayburn and once the DHW portion of TS is hot then CH will spring to life. Slower yes but simple and should ensure DHW is protected? The rayburn will defo be copper piped primary to TS. Is there no more flexible option for the primary pipework from the oil Boiler as this will be tricky to route? Oh one more question. Is sludge lightly to banjax the TS connecting it to a set of old Rads and a steel boiler that is rusted internally on the Rayburn? -
By Happystrummer · Posted
Thank you all...so helpful. I went back today for another sneaky look and took some photos which are far less pixelated. I think its prob going need a new roof and I know what to look for now indoors when I get in on Saturday. -
Should work well with this: https://newatlas.com/mit-wifi-people-track-walls/40158/
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