You're on the right track. The rotten batten is almost certainly an old nailing ground for boarded flooring. Dig out every scrap of timber, check the hole does not go through the structural slab, then slurry the sides with SBR and fill in layers with a repair mortar. Home made skirting grounds from CLS are fine if you let the timber dry first. 400mm centres into masonry is plenty. If the old steel pipes are abandoned, cap them and leave them, then break out the loose chasing and repatch. If they are still live, replace any runs you can reach now, because buried steel rusts and expands, which is often what cracked the old patch. Low expansion foam at the gaps and a silicone dam at the doorway will stop the self levelling escaping. Closed cell perimeter strip is for isolating a floating screed. A bonded levelling compound should stick to the slab, so do not run foam all the way round. Leaving the bitumen tiles and covering them with a compatible compound such as Ardex NA encapsulates them, so long as you do not sand or grind. Check with the makers whether the liquid DPM goes before or after the compound. 20mm of XPS helps, but if thresholds allow, 50mm would do much more. An 18mm tongued and grooved plywood deck with glued joints and a wall gap is a better base for LVT than chipboard. Check the total height against your doors before you commit.
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JpManning · 2 hours ago 2 hr