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    • My waste came with blue rubber blanks that have been useful for this. Or a washer cap from toolstation gives change from £2.
    • Hiya.    The base brackets you show act as pins, they are just intended to carry vertical load only. They do have a minimal shear load capacity, but it is minimal. That (shear) is the load horizontal to the plane of the ground surface. The brackets you show are of minimal strength.    To stop it moving sideways there are a number of different options. We can do a flat portal type of frame, often with knee braces. But this is going to introduce shear load into the brackets you show, they are not big enough and likely neither are the pads they rest on by the looks of things. The pads might be able to carry vertical load but not horizontal loading.    Or you can fit a stiff floor and roof. These then act as a diaphragm and transfer the sideways loads back to the main house. But you have to check the main house can carry this extra load.    To give you a better answer, with more explanation on how it works, need to see cross section drawings and a bit more of the house you are going to add load to if you use the diaphragm method.    Ah like your idea. Quick story. When I was at uni one of my structures lecturers was into wood as a hobby. He used to buy tree trunks, cut them up into sizes in his garden, season the wood and make stuff. He did an extension with a curved vaulted ceiling in oak. To make it work he wanted to laminate the planks, turn them into a Glulam type beam We had remained in touch and once I started practising he asked me if I though I could prove this calculation wise. The answer is yes. I won't explain here but it's not too hard, if you know how to do it.    This can be done DIY on a modest scale. In fact I'm deploying the same idea over a set of doors with a triangular glazed window above. I'm turning the individual 95 x 45 into a "Glulam" to carry the weight from the triangular glass above. But also I turn it into a solid timber so it better resists the wind load on the doors and glass. The cranked steels above carry the roof load.    Here are the notes that go with the transom.     For you you are going to needs lots of clamps. You can used tie bolts also, messy unless you want to leave them in place. The secret is to condition your timber and make sure all glue surfaces are clean, free from oils etc, roughen them a bit and don't rush the job.  In other words cleanliness is next to godliness as is diligence.    Here is a bridge near where I live.     The photo, near where I live is not that good of a laminated bridge. There are bolts going down from the top to the bottom of the beam. These transfer the shear loads between the laminations. Glue is more efficient.    Hope this help inspire you to give it a go!   
    • I think it's a bit more nuanced and people give advice based on their own set up (I'm just as guilty of that which is why I try to ref my current set up when responding) If we look at the process and what we are trying to do when batch heating water there is some sound reasons for controlling flow rate via a gate valve and or pump speed Slower the pump speed the gate needs to be more open - speed the pump up and you'll need to close the gate valve more We want the HW supplied by the boiler to spend as long as possible in contact with the cooler water in the tank to allow as much heat transfer as possible We want the water to flow in at the top of the coil and out at the bottom so at every point in the coil the HW from the boiler is able to transfer heat because the water outside the coil and in the tank is cooler as you go down the tank Pump speed can have an effect - if you have a boiler that doesn't control the speed of the pump then you need to establish the lowest pump speed possible to maximise the time in the coil However - there is absolutely no point screwing the flow down to a point where the flow rate in the circuit is insufficient for the boiler resulting in repeated short cycling as this a massive waste of gas. So the target is to heat the water in the tank in preferably one burn so initial start up losses are minimised.
    • Not really. Steel is old tech and mass produced. Kerto is hitech and a smaller market...and heavy. You might even find second hand steel.
    • Installers are looking for a bigger job because of the grants.   More about the roof please. What construction do you intend? Closer purlins gives lots of strength.
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