Size for heating not cooling, you will regret the higher running cost of running a oversized heat pump. UFH in screed is a huge buffer of heat and cold. If you peak cooling is 5.5kW that heat demand can be spread over many hours. Example I removed a 6kW and installed a 4kW in January this year. I was getting CoPs between 7 and 8 this summer doing cooling. This time last year doing heating my CoP 3.72 for the month, due to very light heat loads and plenty of standby hours, same house, same plumbing a CoP of 5.15 this year with the 4kW heat pump. With 192m² of UFH your volume of water is huge and would prevent short cycles. Unless you want to zone every room. Your fan coils are constant water flow and variable fan speed based on room temp. Cooling via UFH is no issue as long as you don't force 7 degs water through it. Run between 12 and 16 degs in the UFH loops you have cooling. Pre plumber cylinders are a waste of money for a heat pump as they have lots of stuff you don't need. You can spec the kit you need for under half that if you eliminate all the things you don't need. I never bothered with a grant, don't believe they should exist, they don't add value. I did it DIY. My view Direct cylinder heat via immersion. You make it smaller and heat hotter. Charge with solar an ToU tariff. Heat pump to direct to UFH to heat and cool. No buffer, house ideally a single zone, no buffer. If you are desperate for room temperature control gets an Adia Thermal. If you want fan coils get ones that run from the same flow temp that you should flow through your UFH in cooling mode
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JohnMo · 4 hours ago 4 hr