BotusBuild

Dave, Noise level sensitivity is a very personal thing and positioning becomes a critical factor as in your case. I am just sharing some facts on which other reader can base their views - I spent a few years designing and having heat pumps (air and ground source) installed in various domestic situations, and the first set of questions I asked any new owner was about how they viewed fridge/freezer/washing machine/dishwasher noise. If the design/planning/build timing was appropriate, I would recommend a sound insulated plant room for the more sensitive customers.

A ground source heat pump is no more noisy than a traditional gas boiler. In fact they are relatively quieter. 40-50dB at 1-2m distance from the unit is not uncommon, so just above a quiet library or just below a dishwasher. Personally, I would happily have one in a utility room if it is indeed separated from the rest of the house by a wall/door. Another common location is plantroom in side the house (same thing/different name) or in an attached garage.

I have already done that. The question is posted here so I get as much input as possible 🙂

We are now in the position of having an Architectural Engineer who my wife thinks I'll get on with 🙂 and so we have asked them to provide their services. They are different from the Architects who worked with our land vendor to get the FPP that exists. We are seeking to get hold of the editable drawings from the original Architects for which they want a large sum of money. So, I want to make sure that we get every last thing from them that will help the Architectural Engineer to make the changes to the plans that we would like to get through the planners. What information - drawings, surveys etc. should I be asking for the original Architect to supply in exchange for the large sum of money? The AE is going to provide a list as well, before anyone asks. Thanks Stuart

Still waiting for architects to respond - anyone would think there was a house building boom taking place. 😡

If it is a new and self build, you can apply for an exemption. The timing of all this is critical - read all the guidance on the appropriate council website (Mid Devon). Now, because you have a Class Q, but now want to demolish (?) and build something in its place, it may not count as "new". Again, check the website, the guidance and it may even help to call them and speak with someone.

When you remove the stop plate, replace it with a washer (or something similar) that is of equal thickness to the stop plate. It'll stop the handle "slopping about" (technical term 🙂 ) BTW: Can you actually continue to use that handle as it appears to have an end date in the past? 🙂

Statutory mains pressure should be around 1 Bar (enough to raise water to a height of 10m). "As a guide, if you have a suitable single service pipe, the first tap in the home (this is usually the kitchen tap) should be able to fill a 4.5 litre (one gallon) bucket in 30 seconds, with all other taps and appliances turned off." - from Watersage.org.uk Mains pressure in a closed system will reveal leaks. For higher pressure, yes, either a compressor or I have seen an adapter created by a plumber that allowed an air pressure test with a car foot pump. Note: another recommendation is to fill the pipes with water before you pour the concrete to stop them being compressed by the concrete.

Q: Why do you think you that conduit? Is space tight? You think it will look neater? My experience is that the actual UFH pipe is reasonably flexible and if where it comes out of the floor and is connected to the manifold (direct connections are highly recommended) it is hidden away or boxed in then the "look" is not so important. Q: To protect the UFH pipe? I would recommend having different loops of UFH in different section of solid floor I strongly recommend pressure testing the pipes before you pour. If there is a problem once the concrete is set off, then you are in a whole load of misery to find and fix the leak. Connect the loops to the manifold, open all the valves, fill with water and leave for an hour or two. Fix any leaks, try again. Rinse and repeat (pun intended) Yes. Just be careful See answer regarding expansion joints.

+1. It's a safety feature and although you haven't seen anything come out of it, if something ever were to, it needs somewhere to go. G3 qualified plumber required.

Fitted a new kitchen just over 11 years ago. Borrowed a router and worktop jig - tested on some offcut to learn the process, then cut what I have been told are two very fine joints. So yes, you can DIY. Just be confident in your abilities, but do practice before. Oh, and use the correct tools.

How much time have you got on your hands? How much is your time worth? In other words, can you earn more doing your job than it will cost to get someone else to do it for you? If you are a control freak, or have OCD, then doing it yourself may outweigh the earn vs. cost equation of course 🙂 Personally, I love a good new power tool and would just not consider the equation at all 🙂

There is also a plastic (aarrrgghhh - run for the hills) version that you could use. But yes, something like that. Or, do the tiles you intend to use have a finished edge or option tiles for finishing the edge?

and of course there is always the article that says "The government also hopes to encourage homes with solar panels to install batteries." in the very same publication, two weeks prior 🙂 https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2019/jun/09/energy-firms-buy-electricity-from-household-rooftop-solar-panels But I do note from the 24 June article if I install after 1 Jan 2020 (highly likely!) then I get to benefit from being paid for feeding into the grid. Again. Just bl00dy perverse - what happens for those who install between April 1 and Dec 31 this year? No wonder there has been a massive fall in installations.

What you experience @lizzie is fairly normal. Have the woofer (and maybe yourself) run around the house for 10-20 minutes to create some extra heat. Or throw a party 🙂