BotusBuild

Some would say yes 🙂 However, it's your build, and if you want it a particular way make it happen. Be ready for change control payments 😉

In the picture you will see the opening for windows created in Nudura walls. As I approach plaster boarding, thoughts turn to the traditional wooden window cill at the bottom of each window. Am I safe to presume that I can attach the cills directly to the Nudura, with nothing else in between.

There are a few good experienced roofing people on here who I hope will be along to help you. I am not one of them but hope the following will help kickstart the conversation for you. My observations: 1. You will require the roof to be thoroughly clean and dry in the area to be repaired. This is the KEY AND MOST IMPORTANT part otherwise any repair will not adhere properly 2. I would ensure the repair covers the whole length of the join between the current GRP and EPDM layers including, very importantly, up under the tiles. You could start the cleaning in the wet, but be careful up there! 3. I would avoid lifting any of the existing GRP or EPDM if it is clearly well adhered to the subbase - in your diagram it appears the proposed fix is to insert the GRP repair piece under the EPDM. In fact I would be looking to remove anything that is not clearly stuck down, then you know the extent of what is to be repaired. You may need to temporarily cover with a good thick sheet of plastic after cleaning and before repairing - have this to hand!! 4. Whatever you use is going to need to be flexible to cope with expansion/contraction. This is where you should rely on other knowledgeable folks on this forum. 5. The repair piece will need to overlap "good existing roofing" by 100mm+ I would think (maybe more) and have flexible sealant between the existing roof and the new repair piece and some way to ensure that rainwater falls onto the existing roofing a good distance away from the sealant to avoid it collecting. I show a double run of sealant (orange blobs) in the diagram below to act as an insurance policy (FYI blue line is the repair piece (see 4. above), black lines are the existing GRP or EPDM). Others may be along to disagree with me 🙂

I agree. it seems the first quote they are providing is not worth the PDF it was sent in. I used to have a good room by room heat loss spreadsheet, but many PC changes over the years has resulted in its loss. Does anyone have one I could plagiarize? If not, I'll look to adapt the JHarris sheet

Thank you all for your replies - I thought I might have been missing something, so I'm much happier about pushing back, but they are now saying they will need to do a room by room heat loss calculation. If that is the case I am going to treat them like I treated the window company and make them come and measure it all themselves 🙂 I dealt with MCS some years ago on the supplier side and didn't much like the "one approach fits all scenarios" position that was taken then and this does not seems to have been updated. There is no flexibility in the system for some of the types of houses we are building.

260m2 Air Tightness not yet confirmed, but it will be as low as I can get it. I am sealing things as I go both inside and outside. My contact has been Lauryn (surname retained for some privacy)

Just got this nugget back: However, for the size of cylinder that you require, it would need to go onto a much larger heat pump so that it has the capability of heating it. Do I smell BS?

Seeking feedback. I used the JHarris heat loss spreadsheet. The worst Total daily heat loss power for mean minimum OAT that I could get was 3.246kW. That was reached by erring on the side of caution with all the input figures but being sensible about it. I have informed Alto that the heat emitters would be UFH, and we would like a 250 or 300L hot water cylinder. I sent them the spreadsheet I had used so they had all the same input data that I had used. I just got back the quote and a performance document, the latter which makes interesting reading: Total Design Heat Loss - 8.53kW Design Flow Temperature for Heating System - 50C Design HW temp 55C with a reheat time of 1h10m I can live with item 3 although I would likely run it a little cooler (45C), but item 1 and 2 have me baffled. I have gone back to them and asked to see their detailed calculations that led them to the 8.53kW heat loss figure and I have asked why the heating system flow temp is at 50C FYI - they have specified a Mitsubishi Ecodan 11kW ASHP and 250L cylinder. Observations?

Worthy endeavour IMO What is they say, Every Little bit helps.

Used ones on eBay, or

Small round topped kerbing (sometimes called round top pin kerb) between the driveway and the gravel, installed so only the round top is above the level of the driveway - probably won't stop all of the gravel migration, but might reduce it.

of the where the beam extends out beyond the external wall? How about a picture instead? 🙂 The blue circles are where the two I-beams go through the wall. Everything in the direction of the arrow to the right is now warm roof (160mm PIR) - correction, the warm roof is above the I-beam that runs up and down the picture as well and up to those wooden frames on the left.

Belt and braces I can appreciate - hopefully we'd have escaped the house before those I-beam give up 🙂

I understand. But there is nothing technically wrong with what I have drawn?

That would mean doing that across the whole ceiling (about 50m2). The rest of the ceiling apart from these two steels is not a cold bridge.