BotusBuild

4" thick with 30mm stones? I think you'll see a lot of gaps (spy holes) between the stones. This maybe the effect your after of course but if not then go up to 6" as that should eliminate most "spy holes"

The double end hooked wires are going to need to be plentiful i think, probable at most 200mm apart to stop bulging. Maybe a good idea to alternate the spacing of the hooks to also reduce chances of bulging. Trying 4-600mm depth to start with.

Will do for the last 10 🙂

A quick follow up and another door lining question. All the door linings I bought were kits and the headrail had grooves cut in it for the legs/jambs to fit into, which I ended up having to reposition because of the opening widths. Could I just buy planed timber and make up linings? Yes, probably. Do I need the grooves in the headrail?

Don't forget going over budget

You've got the idea - adding to the thread with the start of a myriad of ideas 😅

I just found a lovely use of a zip tie. Couldn't get the bottom screw of the pipe clip in ....

Which require a nut on the other end? Is there another type? I don't want to have to get to the "hidden" side of the glulam beam

Brilliant, that'll do the job

Please

Is he a PM who you have given QC responsibility to as well? If so, 1) get rid and replace if you must have a PM Or 2) renegotiate price to remove QC responsibility and carry on doing it your self If you haven't given them QC responsibility I can understand lack of visits to site.

I don't have any, but treating it as if a first floor balcony

FYI - the glulam beam is wood, of course, 300 x 150 mm, 6m long. On the now hidden side are some web joist every 400mm. And various wires, vent ducting and insulation. Murphy will have placed a joist in the way of at ones set of screws, nuts etc 😁

Yes. Only problem is have with that is having to remove the ceiling the other side of the glulam beam to put the M10 nut and a washer into 🙂 Now looking for M10 tube inserts of a suitable length ((50mm?) for the glulam beam.

🤣