zoothorn

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zoothorn last won the day on October 13 2018

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About zoothorn

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  • About Me
    hamfisted, lazy, incompetent.
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    The Wild West

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  1. Ok Peter thanks for that- better safe than sorry. Where the pva: water primer idea I had figures.. who knows. Good.
  2. Ok thanks alot for that.. I feel calmer when I get one of your sketches, its Onoff opium! theyre ace. Ok understand the idea better now. Only thing missing tho in 1st profile sketch, is that the cls isn't up to the line of the door frame: its 100mm short of it @ 140mm (sill as I call it is all of 240mm to the door frame, set FAR back so door can open out 180*). So I have a 100mm gap.. I assume so/ assuming he didn't fill it with timber too.. over which the osb is hiding. This is why I was gonna hack the fkr off. Actually I could drill thru osb top couldn't I & see if anything solid below, just thinking as I type my spiel.
  3. I'm not quite getting the need to support the timber top. As far as I can tell, its a solid bit of CLS (all used seem to have been 140mm for the studs, but the base [the horizontals you can see generally around the pic] onto which this scrap of osb is screwed. That's it. If I could get the top off.. but I can't the huge screws are put in with lord knows what strong thing. If I get the top off, hack it off then angle grind the screws off (cant think how else to do).. then I have 140mm of CLS timber > then a gap of 100mm (presumably builder didn't put in any more timber here) > door frame.
  4. I cannot take a better photo, I do not have a better photo. That is why I state "its good enough". Not from a lazy opinion.. but bc my old slr cameras unable to take a pic now, & I cannot afford another. esp right now. We're not guessing as to the section. As I said its just one layer of CLS (is it?), & a scrap of OSB whacked on (you can see in the pic, even if its in the btm RH corner.. its clearly two bits of wood). I was only wondering really if A) it needed to be insulated from a regs pov, & B) how this could be done. I mean the sill on the door below, into the workshop: my builder put in a slate sill, looks good. But its not got a fart of insulation under it, or air-tight xyz on. He couldn't have put slate onto anything but a solid piece of either block or timber anyway I would suggest, so this door sill wouldn't ever be insulated.. so why I ask myself would the sill to the door(s) upstairs would need to be? only difference is its 2 (narrow) doors opening, not 1. Isn't it?
  5. @Onoff that's as good an eg/ pic as is needed. No black gap, just some dpm lip coming up/ trimmed that off, & foiled the wood fwiw. Is it imperative I put even PIR on, can't it just be left as is > put on something/ not sure what ply is a good suggestion, but without insulating below it 1st?
  6. I don't like the sound of that.. sounds like a 'procedure'.
  7. Aha ok.. didn't know masonry paint was't a form of emulsion/ another thing learnt then. I was sure there was some sort of primer/ adhesivey thing needed even before the 1st 5:1 first coat. No?
  8. Well no spiel specifically worded 'new render'.. but does say ok on conrcrete & brick.. & I mean render is a plaster, & isn't it just white emulsion thinned down a bit which is simply what masonry paint is-?
  9. Hi Actually Peter Ive just dug out some no-nonsense 'Bare Plaster' undercoat white paint.. would this be suitable? [sorry what does "MIs" mean]. thanks zoot
  10. Just fitted a new bathroom 2 yrs ago, & put in a new backdoor!
  11. Hi again chaps- hope this'll be a quickie. How to best apply a base/ primer coat on new render? drying 3 months now.. so can start thinking on this job. I've decent dulux masonry paint (white wales cottage) ready for main coat but £dear so ideally not use this 50/50 or whatever a primer coat might be. Thanks- zoothorn rollo.
  12. Its ok for me, I think, as the whole shebang's been done via govt grant.. fingers x'd. But does what you say apply if my existing HWT is 'leccy?
  13. I am an idiot & I'd like to ask a Q too. Does the outside box thing link up to the existing HW tank, if a new C.heating ASHP system is to be installed? Or would it come with a new one, specific to the ASHP system, included in the mix? IE throw old one in the river..? Thx zoot.
  14. @Onoff My bathroom is appaling for this (walls so cold) & my backdoor worst: here I have so much black mould all around periphery the plaster's rotting. Anyway my only weak point is my french door sill.. can you advise on my door sill? Another Q. Any reason I can't put polystyrene offcuts as "fill" between my pozi joists? (got two useful 1m x100mm packing 'batons'). I mean only in a ~1m section. My rockwool won't quite reach you see.. so I'll have a 1.2m vacant section I can fill up with this + some 25mm PIR chopped up to make 75mm. So my joist will be filled tmrw with 140mm rockwool, with a 1m gap left (under doorway, directly above I think best) here filled up with PIR & polystyrene all wedged & foamed in. Prolly fill up over half the joist gap minimum, about as much as the rockwool will.
  15. @PeterW thanks chaps- I had no idea at all about this, sure am learning as I go along. Ok good more reassurance on the condensation. Could either of you advise on my french doors sill: I asked builder to push the doors up 50mm. Why? bc A) he produced such a low set my head was almost hitting the frame.. yet another thing very not as per plan. And B) to scrimp every 50mm of height for my balcony [bc of his build height cockup] so doors will skim the deck). So its made it in cheap timber @ 50mm H. 240mm D isn't a good step for my size 11's.. so thinking I add a bit inwards/ easy. Tried to take up the OSB surface to whack in some PIR, but screws too hard. Its what to put on this timber sill is my Q. Or is it fine as it is?