Carrerahill

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About Carrerahill

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  1. Wow - a lot of wasted space there. First thing is first, work out how well built the building is, 60's builds were good to be fair, still used decent timbers etc. then if say 80% of it is good then plan to fix the 20% and incorporate that into your extension. I think above you said you think there are no foundations to one area... are you sure? How are you identifying these structural sections, i.e. the cupboard?
  2. Is it a sewer? Or is it your drain? Just for clarity, a sewer is what a utility company own, the definition of a waste pipe/drain/soil pipe is that if it only carries waste from a single dwelling and it's outbuildings and drains then it is just a waste pipe - if it passes into your property line carrying waste it immediately becomes a sewer. Confirm what it is carrying first. We have a similar pipe along the side of our house but it only carries rainwater from the front gutters - I am going to trench it across into a new manhole much further over that will connect up to the garage too before heading back to the main stack joint.
  3. You know, when I read posts like this I sometimes wish we were all closer and could pop round to Rachel's house for a kick-off meeting and come up with some concept designs while kicking walls and stamping on founds to check what we will need to do. The knowledge on this forum is really all one would ever need and given most of us don't trust contractors, because let's face it we all have trust issues when it comes to contractors, we could do all the work too!
  4. What sort of age is it? Photos suggest circa 1970's area, but the house looks newer, is it brick cavity walls?
  5. Anything is possible. Depends what you can do yourself, if you are paying for everything to be done then you are at the mercy of building contractors and prices will vary depending on time of year, how appealing the job is and how busy the contractors are. I think we need photos and a floor plan to be honest. Structural work sounds like this big scary event but in reality it can be two pads of concrete a block/brick pier and some steels across it and to be honest is usually nothing much more complicated on a domestic project - plenty of members of this forum including myself have done structural work ourselves and sadly often builders will cowboy it (and friend and I found 2 acros hidden behind a plasterboard wall holding up a main load bearing wall - those were the pro's!). If you are a handy sort, who can get to grips with building details and terms and understands the industry you will be able to easily navigate it yourself, save money and also ensure high quality throughout by being a clerk of works on your own site. If the house is a real mashup, and a true shack - then I would be tempted to hire an EC210 and rebuild.
  6. If it was me, I think I would need to do an experiment first, at least on the main cold feed for the sink tap - copper tap connector tails are all 10mm pipe which get event smaller as the taper at the tap itself, but the whole run on 10mm - I am keen to confirm this as I have 100m of copper 10mm on a coil that I could then use to run H&C to my new kitchen with no need for any joints until under the sink all the way from the main stop-cock - now that would be nice! I suppose you can do the same with 15mm plastic but I won't have plastic pipe anywhere near my house. Copper all the way. The only exception would be small bits of heating pipe.
  7. I would do this too. Let's face it, if HMRC say that the paperwork from Wicks is not a suitable form of invoice then the authority has spoken. Having said that, it all seems a bit ridiculous, that a large known firm such as Wicks who are very traceable and known to all have had their invoice questioned by HMRC - I could understand if it was Builder Bob of no fixed address in case it was a scam but it's a legit paper receipt!
  8. Always the same. I think we could get a group of us from this site and we will start a building organisation and start to control the industry! We will make a fortune - we will make builders believe they must sign up to our organisation to be allowed to build.
  9. All these organisations are just a body that bring together some information that is almost always available through some research or talking to the right people or engaging a consultant etc. All these memberships and subscriptions, whatever they are for and for all trades, are just a money making machine, they are all the same. A boys club, people who set up a website and have some literature and claim to be an authority on something and are basically self appointed with a false sense of important. They are never government organisations and there is no law that says you must be a member - yet people end up forced into feeling they must subscribe and tick a box and what they actually get for it is very very little. The only one that is a legal requirement is Gas Safe under the Gas Safety installation and use regs 1998. NICEIC/Select for electricians, again not a legal requirement. In the case of NICEIC/Select they are VOLUNTARY organisations you can join to be told you are competent or not. In all cases they were set up by a couple of electricians who saw an opening to extract money from people and they then grew to a point where their self appointed authority and credentials became gospel. I treat ALL of these organisations with complete contempt. I recently had the pleasure of sitting in a design meeting where a NICEIC consultant was appointed to come along to offer advice independently to a client - the client had a duty of care to ensure they were getting the best information. Anyway, the guy, who's card is sitting on my desk right next to me, was totally clueless and was totally out of his depth, he was continually corrected throughout the meeting by myself and my engineers present with me. Shortly after the meeting we were advised by our client that they would be disposing of the NICEIC chap as they realised that he really didn't have a clue or a place in the meeting - I advised that all our work would be, as standard on large projects, put out to another consultancy as checking engineers to provide an independent audit, so that satisfied the client. However, the NICEIC chap's report came back to which I line by line dismantled for being grossly incorrect and misleading. This guy, apparently, is fairly high up the ladder and a bit of a go to expert on electrical matters within the NICEIC - it made me think.
  10. I agree with the galv chassis route. I can do a Landy chassis in a weekend now with a Teleloader or my 2 post and a simple body jig (RHS with some plates welded on!). If doing the bulkhead too it's worth stripping it.
  11. MIG I'd say. I have stick and MIG and have been able to do fabrication, keep my Land Rover on the road (needed a chassis in the end though!) and make custom things. TIG is all very well and good but I have never felt the need to do aluminium etc. and the cost of a TIG for ali is expensive as you need an AC TIG welder for the negative half cycle cleans the weld as you go. I MIGed ali and it was very dirty - it worked though (for the aluminium cross-member above the chassis crossmember on my Land Rover's tub as it had split at the brackets - worked OK). Just type DC TIG into google and up come some 400 quid units, then type AS TIG and the price over doubles for a simple setup. I know a couple of fab shops and got talking to the owners, as soon as I said Ali they always say AC only. So I am glad they did because I actually nearly bought a little cheapo Jazzi or some such name unit, but he said that was steel only. Mind you, TIGed steel looks very neat, but I can produce MIG welds that look really really nice when I take my time and care to prep well. I have a Clarke Turbo Mig, biggest one they do. It's a nice bit of kit. Works very well and is my second MIG - first one got me so far and then I outgrew it so if you think this will be a serious enough hobby and skill to add to your collection go better first. For gas look into the small hobby bottles, you will go through the little canisters in one good welding session. You can use BOC too but they can have high metal prices and or rental. Also, if you know your local owner well, get them to get you pub CO2 - however, argon mix does give a nicer weld.
  12. Thanks, 19mm, 25mm batten? OSB over joist thickness? I think I shall go this route Dave, so I need to workout my floor makeup - my joists are sitting in, loosely, to give me my temp working floor - with 11mm OSB on top for now - at that I am am about 10mm lower than the floor level of the rest of the house - minus any floor covering - so I will need to reduce the plate the joists currently sit on by 19/25mm so that my FFL works out.
  13. I am learning all of this too, I am in no way saying this is right but here are my thoughts and or findings: Manifold goes somewhere that suits - for me that will be against the original house wall nearest the current boiler pipes which then lets me start my UFH run from a convenient corner. Connected directly to the boiler - I am going to extend my 22mm pipes under my house and out into the kitchen - this is best practise for fluid dynamics as far as I am concerned, I will look at the dimensions of the unions on the valve and make a decision then. I think you really do need a valve or manifold - for a single room the one I am looking at is a Danfoss FHV - they seem to market it as a radiator add on kit. Without a valve of any sort you would get full flow into the system from the boiler which could get a bit warm if the boiler is on a lot. I do suspect I could develop my own system using just UGH pipe and then connect it up using an electronic solenoid and an electronic thermostat (of which I have several for some reason in a box in the old garage!). I am not using spreader plates, I will insulate, vapour barrier wherever it goes (under PIR, over PIR?) then screed - mainly as I have 1/3 ton of cement and tons of sand spare! Over screen and battens I think I will just fit 9mm ply then tile over it. If this floor is changed in the future the ply can be unscrewed and replaced without interfering with the screed or UFH. I am confident it will heat well - I worked out the expected BTU's of my system and it's far more than a radiator would be.
  14. Did you just batten out on top of the joists and then screed or did you cover the joists first with ply or something then pipes with batten supports directly over joist positions and screed infill?