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Carrerahill last won the day on October 8

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About Carrerahill

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  1. Just get a excavator with a breaker. Relatively speaking sandstone will break up easily, then use a narrow bucket to remove, I'd not worry too much. Are you hiring a machine and doing it or paying a groundwork contractor? If the latter just let them know beforehand they will need a breaker and maybe a bucket with a thumb, you might be able to sell the stone if you get it out in nice big chunks for landscaping and stone walls! Given they can break out entire concrete buildings they will breeze through SS.
  2. I saw one of those at a social housing fair/seminar last year in Glasgow, smart looking think, I suggested to the Tesla rep it looked like a huge iPhone strapped to a wall, he concurred. What capacity is it? I assume you have some renewables - solar? - to feed into it for later use? Interestingly a lot of housing associations were looking at them, according to the rep, with a view to capturing solar energy then feeding it into the battery for use in heating applications at night.
  3. First off, are you sure you cannot slip a timber in full size? If you have a cavity wall then you may be able to insert a full length timber albeit with a slightly reduced bearing surface which could be made up for with relevant additional timber or steel bracket/anchor. I'd investigate that first. I know I could do this in my bathroom because I have a 100mm cavity. Cost of joist replacement using this method £25. If that was a no go situation I'd then consider a steel route, but that is just me and I can sort out steels as easy as I can get a piece of timber! Just for thinking aloud purposes, I think hollow box section or a flitch beam which I would assemble in place. The box section idea would require off-site fabrication, I have a leaning towards this sort of thing because I can easily get hold of steel and have a friend who owns a large fab shop who would weld it up for me, or to be honest, for this, I would weld it myself. Cost - £50 I reckon and I have a good solid repair. Next option and really only needs a piece of plate cut to length and depth of joist and drilled. A flitch beam is basically a piece of thin steel sandwiched in-between 2 pieces of wood. This would allow you to use steel and timber and do it all DIY - you could then have a single piece of steel in the middle and then sandwich it with 2 say 1x6's you could use shorter timber and butt joint it, and then offset the other side, so you end up with one steel (which being bendy on it's side can be slid into wall, and wriggled in at the far end) then add the timbers to give you a solid twin timber flitch beam with offset timber joints. This, coach bolted together tight would be solid and cheap. That piece of steel from brundles would be about £30.00.
  4. Yes - if you layered them you could create detail, outer leaves with cut outs or something - have locating holes cut and then pin them together with steel rod and weld up.
  5. Not as nice looking obviously, but what about get them laser cut from say 15mm steel - you could hand bevel the openings etc. and "dress them up" after a coat of paint and incorporated into the other components they would probably look fine. Just an option. Casting is not going to be cheap, £300 a pop is in my mind quite good. I've had dealings with this for architectural steelwork and by the time they make the sand moulds etc. it's not a quick task.
  6. It depends, I have not for any of our door or window openings and nothing has gone wrong, you just need to know how to use a measuring tape really. For our garage we just left a standard opening - when I came to fit the door it was within about 5mm and I just shimmed it in - job done. Pros with a frame are that it is set, the brickie needs to follow it and if you are not on hand to confirm sizes or there is a miscommunication it is fine as there is a physical object to follow.
  7. Yup - and if you are doing carpentry a great way to get rid of offcuts!
  8. Sounds more like what I will do, rather than I have planned! I find normal clothes (always a collar and tie optional) and a Dickies Redhawk pair of overalls (always a collar and tie optional) are pretty much all I need for warmth unless I am standing at the bench doing something intricate which doesn't take much movement, and therefore heat generation.
  9. Thanks for that, the issue is postage. I need about £24 worth of tiles yet it will cost me nearly £90 with delivery! I can only assume they are a bit fragile and take a lot of care with packaging them. I've found someone on ebay, a shop's ebay page, who look like they will do them at a reasonable delivery. I did wonder if I could cut them from the 1000's of old imperials I have stacked in the garden! Would be a nice thought to have our own reclaimed bricks made into these and reused in our build.
  10. We have a boxed in pipe in our kitchen, only visible from worktop to underside of cabinet so about 5 1/2 bricks - looking to tile it like a brick wall to make a feature out of it. Based on the corner bricks (which is all I would need) being standard brick size I have worked out I can buy 12 corner tiles and the bits I cut off each side to create a bond would result in the bits I need for the side return. So basically I am looking for 12 decent corner brick slips, tiles whatever you call them.
  11. I paid 80p a block for a bale of 36 I ordered about 4 weeks ago on top of an order for other bits to top up my block stock for little bits of wall etc. Just tried to buy 2 there and they wanted £1.68 inc the vat for the 2. Maybe we are spoilt as there is a block factory about 3 miles away. I think the issue is supply and demand. Thistle multifinish was £12 a bag at one point but I see it is back down to £5.85 a bag in B&Q which means I could get it from the merchant for probably more like £5.00
  12. Mad - I know this was back in June but just for reference, I get all my stuff from J W Grant, they have a branch in Coatbridge which may deliver to you. I was looking at my invoices recently and we are on £3.10 for a bag of cement, £33 for a ton of sand/aggregate/mot etc. I just picked up 5 bags of Enewall (made in Wishaw) magnolia dry dashing top coat for £5.70 a bag.
  13. Our old kitchen had a recirculation type extractor, waste of time and space, I always envied those who had a proper extraction system as I knew the benefits of the system. Now we have our new kitchen in the new extension I have my extraction hood, brilliant. Comes in handy for more than just cooking. I sometimes use it to drag air through from the open dining room window and ventilate the whole space - close the door a bit and you can feel the blast of fresh air breeze past. I know this also means in the winter that I am loosing warm air but we have a bit of a glut of heat in our home so I can live with that. We cook every meal from scratch so boiling water and cooking food is a daily occurrence, great being able to stand in the kitchen and look out the window on a cold evening with large volumes of steam being dealt with and not a single bead of condensation on the windows and doors. There really are so many benefits, I dare say if you don't cook then the benefits may be lost on you. Why not go for a semi-suspended hood and duct out the wall behind.
  14. This is absolutely awful! It's a diesel and match cure in my eyes! But really, this building just looks BAD, really really bad. I think you need to get the SE back and get him to view it as is, I'd also want my own SE there at the same time.