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About Carrerahill

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  1. If you have a plan ping it over and I will pass it on and get you a price - I'd say source the glazing locally if this did work out for you and just fit it up yourself.
  2. We are working with the architect not BMW themselves. I have done quite a few BMW's over the years and largely the architect is given total design responsibility reporting to the BMW estates lot so I never need to deal with them although they are sometimes at the meetings, in fairness those guys are just building/construction/estates managers doing a construction industry job and always seem to be nice guys. I think all car sales involves slime! Probably why I keep my cars in top condition and keep them for a long time to avoid dealing with car sales!
  3. It so happens I am working on a new build BMW showroom right now!!
  4. I like the look of this one, however, my worry about this one would be the small fixing area, fine if you can stick two pieces of threaded rod with resin into a piece of concrete but that just looks like a recipe for disaster, with wind loading I could see that loading up those fixings significantly, the result is then damaged masonry etc. if it lets go. The one Jeremy designed spreads the load a bit down the wall and puts a decent potion of the load into compression on the bottom of the arm with the top fixings in tension giving the clamping force required to lock it into place.
  5. Assuming you have a good substrate to fix to I do not see that being an issue.
  6. Fabricator will want drawings unless they are imaginative. Where are you, one would go on a pallet no bother! If that looks to be helpful let me know. He could send down the metal all powedercoated or galvanised and then have a local glazier supply the toughened or he could ship the lot, we have had projects in London and it made it in one piece and we specified this guy as we felt he knew what we wanted doing and we knew his workmanship.
  7. Our steel chap makes these as customs. We have been involved in the structural design of canopies for commercial properties and I did a lit one, see attached, this is one of ours, I even have photos of it during fabrication somewhere. This one had the impression of it going through the glass in a complete 360° section. Photo is just a grab from Street View.
  8. I am not too keen on that, over your OSB you would have a membrane like Protect TF200 or Dupont Reflex and if you stuff PIR board of the same thickness as the depth of the cavity then you have removed the ventilation over the face of the membrane and this would as I see it create a perfect moisture trap at the OSB layer. We went for render, block, 50mm cavity, breather reflective membrane over 11mm OSB (I wouldn't use anything less than 11 for the cost of it - even 11mm is fairly flimsy), onto 6x2 studs, 100mm of QuinnTherm PIR in-between studs, then plaster and skim - we could have gone for the same makeup but a layer of QuinnTherm over the studs too but we didn't need it, we did however do that on the ceiling. We could have also use 125mm QuinnTherm but that would have reduced our service void too much and to be honest, as it stands the rooms take only the warmth of Henry the hoover running to take the chill of it!
  9. It would not go through the lot to the soil no, it depends on makeup of your slab and all sorts but it could be encased in the concrete, the big house builders tend only to put the bare minimal in the slab like incoming utilities and drainage, then all the wiring and radiator pipes drops from the ceiling level, I don't like this way much but as an example it's what some do. There are so many ways to do this to be honest.
  10. I'd not use poison either, with all the issues our planet has the last thing I want to do is dump poison onto it, but I get it, it's used, and I do sometime deploy it but very very rarely.
  11. Scrape the site and dig out any roots, you don't need to go down deep. When we did ours with a 3' digger bucket I just ran the bucket about 2-3 inches into the ground and removed the whole top layer, most things it just nipped off from roots and left them and bigger things it tore out. The result was a fairly clean site with only minimal amount of holes where things needed a bit more effort - there wasn't really any digging - apart from the big hole, or should I call that "soak-away".
  12. Grab a shovel, a mattock or pick and mark out 1m^2 and clear it down to a scraped clear piece of land. Take a middle of the road piece in terms of bit of old found, old bush etc. and clear it, see how long that takes and multiply by 289 that will give you an idea of time and indeed effort. If you have nothing else to do and want a work out then great, go for it, I'd get a skip though. You can get a Mattock for £20, a wheelbarrow would be good too, good gloves and plenty of other "weapons" to help you! That site will produce a pile of waste about the size of a small caravan.
  13. Having now read this I think it's got to be a site scrape and skip - unless there is somewhere clearly out the of the way of the site you can "lose" the waste.
  14. How big is the site (does the photo show the extent and even if so photos can be deceptive), how much time do you have and how much cash do you want to put into it? Also, what is the ground going to be used for? Where are you going to put the waste? You could do that in a easy day with a mini excavator and a skip to dump all the waste into or bury, or it could take you 3 weekends working flat out and you will still have land that has roots and stubs and residual vegetation. I went down the digger option and it still took me 3 days and a crew of 3-4 of us over the weekend and myself on the Monday and that was with a 1.5ton JCB! Yes I did dig founds and did other stuff but the general site clearance bit took much much longer than planned and I felt the £250 for the excavator to do all that in essentially a long weekend was worth every penny. It also saved us a fortune as I dug a huge hole and basically bulldozed the old garage brick into it, then put in all the vegetation scrapings then backfilled in layers while compacting with the excavator. No skip on site at all and a very well draining lawn now, which in 3 years has not subsided one bit. Obviously don't bury stuff where you may build and only bury garden waste or rock/brick/concrete and deep enough it should never upset anyone in the future.