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About Carrerahill

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    North Lanarkshire
  1. Unit resting on water pipes

    I would just notch that back bar, in reality is is serving very little purpose other than to tie the sides together at the back and stop them flapping in the wind. Now the cabinet is installed they are almost redundant. If you were worried you could remove the section to allow the pipes to clear comfortably, then screw a batten of real wood to the back plate to reinforce it. I doubt the chipboard being damaged by moisture is much of an issue (from seeing it survive well in a bathroom on the back of a damaged cabinet), if concerned check it then apply some paint/varnish/silicone to the exposed chipboard.
  2. Hi guys, Got a question I think one of you guys might be able to answer albeit not really a build related question: Do I need this cold water tank in my commercial property? Here is the background... I have a business premises which is basically a commercial unit that has had offices/kitchen/storage built into it, so when it was built in the early 00's it was just an open plan unit with a male and female WC, above this "toilet block" is a cold water tank, it must be about 200/250litres (based on it's size compared to an oil drum which is 205litres). We would like to develop the area above the toilet block to tie it into the mezz storage level we already have but the tank is bang smack in the middle for weight loading reasons and it really makes the space useless. All that is fed from this tank is the two toilets. It would be a simple case of cutting the two pipes that go to the tank and join them somewhere downstairs thus making the toilets mains fed. Apart from the obvious issue of if the water supply is cutoff we would only have a cistern full of water for each toilet to flush is there any reason why we could not remove this tank? I can think of no logical engineering reason other than that the valves in the cistern might not take mains pressure (although they should) but I am fitting a PRV to the system due to a new 15litre Ariston water heater we have installed which requires the incoming pressure to be no higher than 3bar so I can reduce the supply to the whole property with the Honeywall valve I have already purchased. The reason I am asking and not just doing, is because this is a commercial property and occasionally Scottish Water do make system checks of our water system to ensure we are in compliance (non-return valves before water heaters and so on). If anything I see a tank as a liability for many reasons. Is this tank a throwback to an older plumbing code?
  3. I pay about 7.99 for 3 years domain then use Office365 for my email - also gives me cloud storage and the full office suite for about 3.99 a month - I used to host my own web server and all sorts and worked out I could not even cover the electricity for the mail server for the cost of my subscription - best IT move I have made.
  4. Garage Build Start - slow

    Concrete was placed today... 6.2 x 5 - 200mm slab C35
  5. Garage Build Start - slow

    Update: Just off the phone to my ground works man. The concrete has been booked for next Saturday 08:00. The shuttering is 3/4 built, but only about 2/3 rakers have been set, so this weekend I must fit all the rakers, lay in the gulley and T branch for the waste, lay in a piece of electrical conduit to get my SWA in via the floor, lay in a piece of conduit for the water, and a 4 inch conduit for data or control cables or whatever and haunch it all. Then I need to do a final level of the hardcore and the ground work man will be round on Sunday to whack it (just the final 75/100mm cover). Then I have next week to roll out the DPC and lay and tie the rebar. All seems quite doable, although I really only have this Saturday and evenings next week. I am looking forward to getting this stage done as I feel as if I have had a hole in the ground for some time and it will then let me strip all the shuttering and have a major tidy up of all the wood I have been amassing to build the supporting structure of the shuttering. I can also start getting the ground levels up to the slab more or less worked out. I will post photos, promise - I just might not do it soon!
  6. Hardcore compaction issue

    Well I had rented one but it went back after the excavations, in retrospect I should have kept the digger for another couple of days and got my recycled aggregate and Type 1 delivered the following day. Anyway I did what I described above and now the site is rock solid and fairly level. It took a fair bit of effort to move double handle most of the Type 1 but in the end it was all worth it. The concrete was meant to be being poured today however I had a shuttering issue at the weekend, it should be built this weekend and the pour completed next week.
  7. Garage Build Start - slow

    So, the plan above didn't really, well, go to plan! I have only just received the last load of type 1. Whacker is coming tomorrow. With any luck I can post some images of a site ready for shuttering by the end of the weekend.
  8. Hardcore compaction issue

    Hi all. Quick question, I had 8 tons of 6F2 recycled aggregate dumped on my garage site about 4 months ago, this contained some pretty big stuff - 3/4 bricks and lumps of concrete, fine it was just to get the base fill and once spread over 30m sq it was not that deep so the first layer of type 1 filled all the small voids, this first fill was just about perfect for running a vibrator plate over (less than 150mm rise in fact) and would have been the perfect plan at the time but that didn't work out. I then got another load type 1 delivered and decided to place that round the perimeter of the area to build it up as some will run off into a lower area, at this stage it was still within first compaction limits. I was then on the phone to my merchant who was looking at my account and said he would do me a better rate on the type 1 going forward because I was not being given the full trade price and had bought a lot, so I just jumped at the chance and ordered another load. This load was carefully tipped at one end of the site so my plan was to compact the area that is about level and then shovel all the new stuff out then compact it again, the issue is the area the stuff was dumped on, I am going to need to dig it back down to a suitable depth for first compaction then whack it all, then pull the type 1 back over the area. This just sounds like a lot of extra work, my fault I know but what are peoples thoughts on whacking say a 250mm depth of type 1? By the way, this stuff was compacted to an extent as it went down as I continue to park my Defender on the hardcore and the area that would need dug up has been run over with the Landy about 100 times and feels like concrete now. The loose stuff now sits on top of this. I am going to get the whacker tomorrow morning so could get a fairly big one, I was thinking of the 400mm 12kN or if it would help with my depth issues I could get the 500mm with 15kN but at the same time I have been advised by my structural engineer that using too big a plate could cause issues with surrounding buildings foundations and could also damage my rear retaining wall. So, what are peoples thoughts here, any similar stories or issues?
  9. Garage Build Start - slow

    Here are some photos of the progress. I got 5.8 tons of 6F2 (recycled aggregate) delivered on Tuesday, whacker is coming next week (Friday I think) and on the same afternoon loads of MOT are due to arrive, so plan is whack the site, get a load in and levelled, whack it then get another load.
  10. Extension Build

    Hi guys. I have building warrant and planning now so I can think about starting very soon. I am trying to sort out the timber frame aspect of it just now and note the warrant drawings call for Tyvek Reflex and 2.0mm breather membrane to BS4016 - so I guess I just wrap the frame with something like Tyvek housewrap then wrap it in the Tyvek Relfex. I am tempted to send the commencement letter ASAP so I can just start firing up the frame but want to make sure I can get it wrapped ASAP so need the right stuff.
  11. Garage Build Start - slow

    Well the digging is all done, the lawn has been raised and the garage site cleared and dug out. I need to go in and sort out bricks and stuff which I piled up then I can start with the hardcore going in. I am pleased with the result, the lawn site needs graded properly as it was just roughly graded with the excavator as we ran out of time! I opted not to do the front lawn scrape as I didn't want to have too many mud pits! Photos on soon once I get them from my camera/phone.
  12. Need quick to learn CAD software recommendation

    Well first thing is what software do you have access to? I am sitting with ACAD 2017 in front of me at the moment and have 2015 on other machines. What you propose to do requires very basic CAD skills to be honest, I reckon you could do it with the commands L for line tool, CO for copying stuff, select and Delete key to delete stuff select and M to move stuff and if you don't worry about colours and layers and just draw everything in lines and print it in black and white no one will know you've not got everything all properly layered etc. But this means having ACAD - the licence I have on this machine is £1500 I did have a ummm. "trail" version I used at one point too, it was a long trail. However, you can download and install ACAD on trail for 30 days. If I was you I would just get hold of it and start messing about tonight, loads of guides and it's pretty easy once you get to grips with the, well grips and commands! Just how much work is involved? Mean are we moving a few lines or are there curbs and soft verges and general civils to add and all sorts? I would offer to do it for you but if you read my other posts this is a big weekend for me, excavator rolls in tomorrow! I could maybe find you a CAD tech would would do it for a small fee.
  13. Burning waste on site

    When I help on my friends farm we often build bonfires to get rid of large quantities of hawthorn which is a pig to handle in fact considered a hazardous waste (bacterial infections, allergic reactions and can be fatal). We need to phone the local fire control, they can also advise you don't burn if it is considered too high a risk that due to hot weather the fire could spread etc. and give them details of the site of the fire and rough timings, this helps to reduce people reporting it and the FB responding - such as the summers night we had 3 appliances stuck down a farm road - the FB actually commended us on our burn pile and the safety measures we had employed including firefighting equipment on site in case it got out of control, mind you, the fire was 20 feet high and about 1000sq feet in area! Re. planning department, I would assume it is just notifying them of planning destruction of materials by fire - I would also cite the issues regarding the nails making it difficult to cut up safely and that it would not recycle well owing to the fact the chippers would hate all the nails. Also don't burn anything that is going to generate acrid smoke like plastics and things.
  14. Petrol lawnmower

    Honda are always good - I know the owner of a plant hire place and he only buys equipment that can withstand hire use - basically mainly a bunch of monkeys with no care in the world for the poor machines. Which is why I look at what he and take his advice on which tools are hire-proof therefore will last me a long long time! He uses Honda and John Deere or kit with Briggs and Stratton engines - I also know the national trust almost always buy Honda mowers. The thing to bear in mind is that the engine and self drive gearbox is the critical bit really - If the deck seems well made and a good engine sits atop then the chances are it is a decent mower. All the good ones last well if maintained and used with care. I would probably not opt to straighten the shaft, is the shaft in fact the crankshaft that drops down via the drive gear for the self drive? or is it a second shaft after a "gearbox"? If it is the main crankshaft then it will probably be cast iron on a small engine like that, it has probably already fractured and could let go, trying to straighten it will almost certainly guarantee it will fail possibly with fatal consequences. If it is a shaft from an intermediary gearbox then it could be machined steel in which case there is a chance it could be fixed but unless you can get it onto a lathe it is almost certainly going to destroy a bearing and tear itself apart as you will never get it straight enough. Post some images. I notice you can get Ryobi mowers with Subaru engines!!!