Carrerahill

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About Carrerahill

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  1. I used 3M foil tape, the performance spec was impressive with low to high service temps and all water proof and all sorts. It was not this one (the one I got was £7 per 50m x 50mm roll), but it gives the idea. Tapes are used for a lot of sealing applications on buildings and it makes no sense to use cheap tape that will separate off the product rendering its application a total waste of time. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium-tapes/1444035?cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-PLA_UK_EN_Adhesives+%26+Sealants+%26+Tapes_Whoop-_-Aluminium+Tapes_Whoop-_-PRODUCT_GROUP&matchtype=&pla-339158924057&s_kwcid=AL!7457!3!413164779971!!!g!339158924057!&gclid=CjwKCAjwguzzBRBiEiwAgU0FTzT31fJeUDGa02jVApEOhFhdgdc_Ah5Py2jkHAfPlB_0g6yCRR64CRoCqg8QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
  2. That is an issue - I like to "bench build" as many pieces as I can, but let's face it, there comes the time you need to fit it to your building permanently and this can cause alignment issues you describe. Another option is to try fit the whole system - then mark every piece with a number and an alignment mark. That allows you to set elbows and Tees to the correct angle as you solvent weld them.
  3. I would say, although not ideal, as long as the pipe went in and ended up with a good welded joint to the the coupling, it should be OK. I sort of pressured tested all my PVC work by reaching down the brand new, clean, soil stack and jamming the 40MM waste up at the boss with toilet paper, I then ran the sink and bath until I knew the whole network of pipes was sitting full over water. Maybe you could alleviate some fears of your own with a similar test. On hand-over/completion of projects, say a big office block the architects and consultants and anyone else within the "design" team usually have a big party, there is what is called "the big flush" where everyone was to go to the WC's and kitchens and tea points and simultaneously flush all the loos and run all the taps. It was a bit of a gimmick at the system had been tested already, but it was to emulate a busy working building, once it had been done everyone would return to the party as normal and contractors would the go round risers and basements and plant areas looking for leaks or failures.
  4. I hear you! Some pipe runs can be done easily but when you need to slot new pipe in between existing fixed points it can be a bit of a mad dash to get it all fitted snug and lined up before the solvent starts to cause the PVC to bite.
  5. That means it is basically just a sort of garden building bolted to the side of your house - I suspect the best option is to get rid of it and start again.
  6. That roof would not take it, don't do it. If you look at what holds these things up all it is is uPVC windows supporting more uPVC windows! They only just keep themselves up. If you want to make that into somewhat more of a "proper" building for a lower cost then I'd deconstruct the roof, and get structure in across the front to support a roof, you would need to go higher up the house to get a suitable pitch too. Although, I did draw up the plans to do that myself I ended up demolishing ours and doing a rear of house extension/side abutment as I decided it was actually easier. If I was in the office I'd have our structural engineer eyeball it but alas we are all at home, but I can see his eyebrows now - those are all the indicator I need as to the suitability of something!
  7. Well that is the Amtico part of the floor down, it looks great, I am very happy with it and considering it is my first DIY Amtico adventure I am quite pleased with myself. I now need to do the cheaper stuff around the perimeter which will be under the cabinets. I do have some photos but don't have the time to email them over and what not, I will soon. So in summary, Amtico is very much a DIY job unless you are going for a complex floor with motifs etc, where maybe I'd not want to risk it, although, if I had plenty spare lengths I might risk it... I would be happy to lay a border with what I now know. So, if you are thinking about it - go for it! I used Ardex Universal adhesive spread with an A2 notched trowel, I used a Marshaltown 4 inch jointing knife to scoop it out the tub and generally spread about the place before hitting the whole area with the notched trowel until I had 100% coverage but notched sized lines so there was room for it to squeeze out into the troughs and not so much adhesive the flooring just starts to slide about. I'd do it again in another room tomorrow, as with most jobs, the time is in the prep, the flooring actually goes down very fast and cuts very easily - if I was doing it again I'd setup a workbench with a "cutting station" on it.
  8. True RAL should be RAL - a lot of manufacturers list a RAL colour but state it is not actually a RAL colour - it's just a close equivalent. Commercially within buildings colours are matched on all sorts of items all the time and although we come across the odd mismatch its usually about bang on - I am confident the RAL system at a commercial level is very accurate. RAL powdercoat and wet finish systems need careful mixing to get a good match between the two systems.
  9. I'd say yes. Anthracite is an "in" colour, so lots of things are specified as Anthracite now and it looks right to me from what I see. Google RAL 7016 - Anthracite Grey I'd say your cabinet is damn near RAL 7016.
  10. I had bags of Sure Rend in the back of a car in my dry garage over winter, I moved them the other day and the usual puff of fine dust ensued, the stuff feels nice and powdery, however, the stuff went out of date in October last. Drat. I was hoping to do a bit of dry dashing to the back of the garage hopefully over the next few weeks - the scaffolding is up and and weather is better. I know cement has a use by date, but my understanding was that if it was still dry it was fine and have often used out of date cement, I might not build a bridge with it, but I have never had an issue, one of the reasons cited was that a product in it to reduce cement burns wouldn't be effective - I ignored this and accepted the risk. So what are your thoughts on a lime based product that is out of date being used? Before you ask, I have asked the manufacturer but not heard back yet. http://www.enewall.co.uk/surerend-top-coat-pre-mix/
  11. My favourite place, I have been going since they were in a little industrial unit across in the main part of the industrial estate selling small stuff.
  12. I think I'd have done that too - as I said above, your work is already done there and looks good - pig to strip it, you then run the risk of damaging seals etc. when you disturb them. Problem solved.