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About Carrerahill

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    North Lanarkshire

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  1. Does anyone know the CO2 generation from making a sheet of PIR and transporting it? Or indeed generation of any other nasties? If I had heaps of solar power, or wind etc. and therefore didn't give a stuff about burning power I would just invest in generation capacity, I would not insulate much I don't think - so there will become a tipping point that clean generation returns us to just pumping lots of heat into our homes and not worrying too much about it. Every time I cut a PIR sheet it stinks and off-gasses, it really makes me wonder. I'd love to have the time to fully research this, I may get the chance next year to do a paper on it but it depends.
  2. Well it depends how you heat your home - it costs me about £60 in gas a year and maybe 2 weekends, a couple of litres of petrol and a lot of sweat to process fire wood, so if I insulate my home it takes quite a long time to get a return from my investment. However, if I heated from gas 100% I reckon my gas bill would be about £1000 a year - then it would make more sense certainly, but also, I suppose future proofing and all that! So it is all interlinked, I am not good at U values and thermal calcs and what not, I hope people on here will help me when I do need this done, but I know that 20mm is not going to save you much relatively but if your buy cost is £600 then it is probably affordable enough (if funds are still OK of course) just to do it and have benefit of knowing it is there. I have just added 25mm sheets of PIR to the underside of my rafters (vaulted ceilings), it is not a lot 25mm, but knowing it is there, fully taped makes me feel better about it and it only cost another £400 or something. The "main" insulation was already in between the rafters - but this fully sealed layer seems good in my eyes! It will help a bit, but I am not expecting to see a saving on energy.
  3. It depends how you will heat your home! Have a look at the specification for the product you are planning and you will see the difference in R value, it will probably be about 2.27m2K/W vs 3.18m2K/W.
  4. Can you make them lower - without seeing the situation it is hard to know for sure, but pipes can be run under cabinets for sure - just depends on other aspects how difficult it would be. If waste goes through the wall then that is an issue, but if through the floor or at floor level that would work, or core new waste hole at floor level etc. Can you post some images of the location/pipes.
  5. Sorry, I just read the WD40 bit...Hoover/Vacuum. Yes.
  6. No, use electrical contact cleaner or even compressed air, WD40 may damage the epoxy/lacquer causing it to break down and then short out the motor and it will also leave a film of WD40 on it which will then cause everything to stick to it afterwards exasperating the issue. Is it corded or cordless? The overheating is probably not related to the dust on the motor but rather the volume of air past the motor head reduced by blocked up filters. You say commutator? Is it not a digital brushless motor? My parents have a shark and frankly I think it is useless - slightest build up of dust and it starts to flash a green LED button and overheat - I go and find their Numatic Hetty if I have cause to vacuum at their house! Best vacuums ever!
  7. No, it will not, you will have rusty staining on everything it touches. Once the layer or protective rust has set up it certainly stops, but by that time it is too late for the materials it has stained. Google New York Corten Steel road staining - I remember it was used on a job years ago, and there were a lot of concerns about the staining, and someone produced a photo of a whole road in New York that was rusty coloured from a new building. It was there for years! Nice in the right situation, but needs managed.
  8. Right, I started on them tonight - well, finalised a plan, clearance after the insulation is 40mm - bought 47mm Appleby boxes, they have small holes all the way around them, I am going to rip or buy some 40mm battens, box will be secured to the stud on one side and a batten will be fixed to the other side which projects up/down to noggins etc. The boxes will be sat to sit proud of the stud @ProDave to force them being neatly cut. Good thing is I will be there and the guy doing it will take instruction - I am actually labouring with him as it's over the weekend. I suppose I will be on electrical cutout duty! I have pinged the laser around and marked my mounting heights at 400mm, 175mm above counter in the kitchen - this worked well with some noggins -1200m for switches. I agree with you, @Onoff the issue is the install in the first place and I would be using my DeWalt Oscillating tool with the big half circle blade which makes really nice net cuts in PB. @CC45 hit the nail on the head, I think this is a 'my house' situation - my plan would not be viable for most electricians who would just get annoyed if I made them do this. Thank you all for your input. I'll post some photos once I get onto this - need to go and solve something with the building control officer who tonight emailed about lateral retaining straps...
  9. To be fair I have used Abbleby, among other brands - I just don't like them. The install is fine, not an issue, nice clean job and they do the do, it's down the line when you remove something and the box loosens and you pull cables through them and they move and twist and bend and damage the plasterboard. I just like the solid install that the metal boxes provide and although the plastic ones are self extinguishing and flame retardant plastics, they are still plastic and they still burn and melt - I like knowing that the bit you don't see, is encased in metal. I'll have a think. I am going to Screwfix about 19:00 tonight so I may just go plastic but it will irritate me!
  10. First fix electrical is being finalised over the next 2 days - cables are all in - it's just prepping everything before plasterboard goes up and running any last minute cables (CAT5/RF/Speaker) before the opportunity is gone! The extension is TF - I know how this is done, I know what is done commercially and what most electricians would fit, but I don't like plastic pattress boxes. I want to use metal back boxes but the mounting situation does always become a little more complicated - I have come up with solutions to fit the odd one or add a couple of sockets before now but not a whole extension. I have 2x6 studs with 4" of rigid insulation between them so I have about 45mm service void then obviously the 12.5mm for the sheet plus a little for skim - so my plan was to go and pickup 35/40mm metal boxes and install them. I have just been onto the site with a 25mm box (all I could find) trying to think of the fastest way to securely mount them and a lot of them! I first picked up a piece of CLS and sort of considered 2 battens to trap the box then screw up and down through the box into the timber - nice solid option - skew-nail the CLS to the studs - OK fine. Due to the locations of the sockets and light switches and things and their proximity to door frames (so twin studs for cripples and kings, trimmers and jacks and what not) there is a myriad of spacings - not always 600mm centres so this becomes a big joinery exercise to make up all the pieces and nail them all in. I know this is all solved and arguably the first fix electrics are then complete as they are if I simply use plastic but I hate them with a passion - don't make me do it! So what have you guys done - images please. I have seen people use 1x4 1x6 rough and jam that in, set in piece of ply/OSB so I have some options, but just wanted to seek ideas from the general forum on this one. No pressure, but I start this evening! Ideas and photos please! Thank you all.
  11. Is this the external concrete/stone/metal ones or internal timber?
  12. Thank you all. Aico it is then!
  13. Thanks. ?
  14. Can anyone recommend any decent smoke/heat alarms. I want to get a "system" from a manufacturer and while I am at it I will kit out the existing house and extension. I just want a simple scaleable solution. What have you guys gone for? Thanks.
  15. Does your grease gun have an air bleeder? Air pockets in the packed grease will basically stop it from working.