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About Carrerahill

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  1. If you have endless seasoned wood and or a means to produce it and want to use it as a source of additional or maybe primary heat go for it. Personally I would not use it as my sole means of heating, as when I go on holiday in the winter I can setup my gas boiler to take care of background heating and personally I did not go for a back boiler because it was going in my living room - I wanted all the heat in that room and didn't want the issues that back boiler stoves can cause (getting firebox up to good temp etc. due to water jacket cooing it things like this) I would consider a Bosky or Aga woodfired backboiler/oven but we have the means to heat the living space with a WBS and that suffices for us. My friend heats his house with a Bosky - he did have the oven version but eventually it was replaced with the heater/hob top version only. He lives on a farm so it was a no-brainer. Downside, however, is that it does his DHW too so he needs about a 45min burn in the morning to top up his 240litres of DHW - can make his kitchen a bit toasty in the summer, he does have 6Kw of electric plate heaters in the tanks too but he tended to chuck an arm-full of logs in and do it for free. Mind you - he also has a waste oil fuelled diesel generator that feeds directly into the tank heaters - also free. So many pro's and con's that this really becomes a full conversation.
  2. The government aren't doing away with them, they are just tightening controls, eventually, as with gas boilers, diesels etc. these things will all be phased out in most areas - provisions for remote areas may allow for a relaxation of controls. Even if they ceased to sell such appliances they would almost certainly allow the reduction in wood burning appliances simply to reduce over time through appliances reaching the end of there life and not being replaced etc. It would also be very difficult to police. I think that they should simply control the sale of wood fuel. If you cannot run your wood stove on locally gathered wood that you arrange and process yourself then having a stove is not really worthwhile in my opinion. Limiting what people can buy from B&Q or the petrol station would essentially control WBS use. Also an outright ban on the sale of any unseasoned timber would help vastly. Asda had bags of green pine for sale, I had a look at it out of interest and wondered how many stove novices would buy it and chuck it on their stove that night. It said in small print on the bag that this wood was unseasoned and it would require to be seasoned. If only well seasoned hardwoods and smokeless fuel was available that would solve a lot of issues. I think there are many many stoves that were bought as a piece of furniture for the living room and get used on a Sunday night or Christmas day - yet the ONS decided to use the number of stoves that have been sold and multiply that by "average" burning hours which were frankly ridiculous and came up with these preposterous emissions figures. I know a lot of people with WBS's which just don't use them - they wouldn't even know which end of an axe to hold and have no clue how to, or indeed incentive to, sort themselves out with firewood - I think they buy some wood for special occasions and that is it. Fine, leave them to it, that is a nice thing. What about BBQ's/Firepits in the summer? It is probably fair to say a lot of BBQ's and fire-pits smoke away during the summer - more people BBQ and use fire-pits than run WBS's and the burn time is probably comparable for the majority of WBS owners as many do not have access to unlimited amounts of firewood therefor it is just an evening event and probably only weekends at that. Ban all the plastic tat they sell for parties, or stupid little solar rechargeable garden lights that last a season and end up in the bin, what an environmental disaster these things are, think of all these little cells now rotting away in landfills. People jump onto the things that are easy to jump at, like WBS and diesels, but look at the utter rubbish people buy for an event and bin the next day. I saw a car air-freshener the other day that resembled a small Pringles type tin with a grille on the top that the fragrance emanated from - I looked at this tray full of them and thought what a total waste of resources, time and money. Ban crap like that. I bet people exist who buy this tat yet lambaste those of us with a diesel or a WBS as being environmental disasters. I might write a book!
  3. No issue at all - in effect an unused leg is just the same as a radiator on the circuit which is off. Water cannot move in it and you will not waste any heat. As with any plumbing setup the more connections and stop ends and valves and taps the more likely there is to be a leak, but I think it would be worth it if it enables a "perfect solution" in the end. I would however cap them all, fill the system and test or pressure test them. I made up a testing system with some push fit stop ends and one with a Schrader valve on it. I put some water into the pipes then pressurised the pipes with my compressor to about 3 bar and left it like that. You could use a bicycle tract pump or little car tyre compressor.
  4. A slightly different approach I used for the similar issue. I made some angle pieces in timber just slightly short of the height of the defect, clamped/jammed etc. them onto the corner and made up a concrete mix - I used some "Ciment Fondu" in the mix to speed up the setting time and trowelled it down the gap at the top occasionally tapping the form with a hammer to remove voids. At the top my mix was of a low slump that I could just trowel it into the gap and flattened it. I took the forms off before it went super hard and scratched it so the render had something to adhere to. I was really pleased with the repairs, looked smart and must have taken me about 15 minutes all in!
  5. Got to be a Numatic product, I have used a Henry for essentially building work and with good bags and keeping it well maintained he has been a beast, we now have a George and a Hetty. I would not recommend the Henry quite for your level of stuff, he could cope, but the bag would fill quickly. If I have major stuff to do I get the 15litre bag for George and use him, I managed to fill Henry right up and all the way along his pipe with sawdust once and it was still vacuuming away no bother - sure it was reduced but it was impressive. Have a look at this stuff - there is a reason you see these guys all over sites, schools, airports etc. they are good. A standard Henry is HEPA 15 I think which is 99.99???? and then there is a HEPA 17 which is 99.999995% which is basically the particle arrestance ability. For your needs, you can get ones that are even designed to vacuum up asbestos dust and will not re-emit the dust into the room - so the point is, if you got one, keep it pretty clean, you could then end up with a really really handy machine for bigger cleaning jobs which will give you better dust control than any domestic vac you can buy - Dyson - eat your heart out. You can get the big blue one for about £200 which is 20litres.
  6. No, ADW are just a rip off, they were the most expensive quote we got for windows too. They took ages to return the quote too, so when they asked if I wanted to proceed I said, well first of all it took you weeks to return a quote and you're the most expensive by a long way. No thanks!
  7. Interesting statistic, but what are you going to build with, much of the timber is British, milled in Britain - I've been using Scottish felled and milled 6x2, 8x2 and OSB, concrete blocks are made just outside Glasgow from British made cement - cable is made in Doncaster, window were made in England, copper pipe made in UK, insulation was made in NI, sand was quarried about 15miles from me, aggregate came from a quarry about 5 miles away... waste piping is made just outside Glasgow using plastic pellets from a plant near Grangemouth - I reckon so far most of my build is British made using British feedstock and home sourced/grown/mined/quarried materials.
  8. You have already posted this, by all means bump your original post but as a non-contributing member it will be frowned upon if you effectively spam a private site such as ours, so please don't spam our site with this again, it will lead to animosity amongst forum members.
  9. Also - go and get on the chat with the guys at J W Grant's literally 2 minutes from you - everything more or less we have bought for the build has come from them. Also, excellent sheet material and building timber specialist round the corner from you in Anniesland. They do all the cladding and have their own mills they work with so can make any shape or size.
  10. I wondered why they were clearing that bit of land and building a new access road - assumed it was something to do with Scottish Canals. I pass your plot hauling rubbish to the tip - you will be handy for getting rid of waste for free! Would be keen to pop in and see you.
  11. Looks good, I am going to do an O&M manual for our house when I am done - sad, I know. I have left so many extras that I may never use like power and lighting circuits, CAT5, water/gas pipes that might be handy one day - only I will know where most of these things are - BT could turn up here and make a mess running a cable across the house in the future, or they wire into the switchroom and then it can be patched out to wherever - but a future owner of this house wouldn't know the half of it.
  12. I hope this results in a project post with lots of photos and progress updates!
  13. Basically it is just like making normal cement mortar but you use lime instead of OPC and you use sharp sand instead of building sand. You would need to by a bag of lime, there are various types depending on where you go, but generally hydraulic (sets by hydration) and non-hydraulic sets buy carbonation - use hydraulic lime for this application, as thick mortar joints may not set for an eternity if you use non-hydraulic. 1:4 would be my ratio but 1:3 or 1:5 work depending on strength. As for how your wall looks, if you do it right it will look original to be honest and the slant should be incorporated into the wall so that it looks the same. I would possibly get a bricklayer or stonemason to look at it and rattle that up for you - brick work is not "easy" there is an art, even the best of care and attention while laying bricks cannot replace experience and skill. I have been building small walls and structures at a DIY level for 20 odd years and I know my brick and block work is acceptable, but I would not opt to build anything too great or something that might be say in the middle of my house on view for evermore, not yet anyway! So it depends where this wall is going to end up - is this wall going to form part of your house one day? I see logs and pallets and cannot work out if this is a outbuilding etc.
  14. I've had several jobs completed over the past 18 months, some were £PB and some were job rate. I am in Scotland - just north of Glasgow so take that into consideration. I would not pay more than £1.50 a block at current prices. I know some will say £2 per block is the going rate. £3 sounds high. My garage was about 480 block and cost me £350.00, it was simple 3 big walls and 2 columns essentially to the front, so 73p per block. Other things I have paid about £1-1.25 a block. Part of my extension worked out to be about £1.30 a block but then there were lots of cuts and lintels and what not so I reckon it all depends on what you need built.