Declan52

Alderwood studios in Lisburn do slabs of various different types of timber you could use as a table top. They do resin tables as well with the live edge timber. https://www.alderwoodstudios.co.uk/

Floor insulation is tested to industry standards to get it's compliance certificates so if it says it's ok for floors it's ok. Your buying it from a reputable builders yard not some guy at Nutts Corner market. You don't put cavity wall insulation under a floor for his reason. Standard height would be 2400 so your not exactly adding massively to it. Mine are 2500 and it just gives a much nicer feeling of space. They won't be using a hammer and chisel to do the tracking so will take a few seconds extra to run the saw the trackers use. Keep the wires in the wall where possible. You don't have to use kingspan. It's just a brand. I have a house with not one kingspan board, it's all celotex. How much height have you from the top of your sub floor to your finished floor??

It's only tiny staples so no massive hole for the screed to follow into. Before your floor gets poured they should check each room and if needed a bit of tape will cover many sins. Never seen the ground floor of a house wired from the floor. Your just making more work for yourself when the insulation needs to go down. How high are your ceilings?? 25mm coverage on ufh pipes is standard. Pipe is probably 16mm then your 25mm so 41mm depth. How thick is your screed.

Generally most of your services on the slab will be no more than a 50mm duct. You then use 50mm PIR floor insulation to cover the floor with tracks cut out where ever the ducts are going. A weak mix of sand and cement fills the gaps of the ducts and where you have cut the insulation and then whatever you have left goes on top, 100,150,200mm of PIR floor insulation. Unless your parking tanks on your living room floor then there is no chance PIR floor insulation will sink. I have 150mm of PIR then a membrane then my ufh pipes and 75mm of sand cement screed. Takes around 90 mins to you feel heat but once you turn your heating off it will take hours to cool down.

I have had my baskil windows in for close to 10 years and they have been 100%. I had a seal go after 7 years and they come out and replaced it straight away. You do have to pay the call out fee which I think was £80 but the window was 8ft * 6ft so easily 4 times that if not more of I was paying for it. Most of their bad rep is from the cheap windows they install for builders. The builders want cheap windows and they supply them. Like everything else you get good and bad installers.

Should be at least 18 inch at the bottom then step in to 13inch then step again to 9 inch then your final course can be 100mm. By doing it this way your giving your backfill a ledge to sit on which adds weight to the wall and stops it tipping over. Don't forget to lay a drain behind the wall to divert rain away. Do it once and do it right. Not a chance a single skin wall built 4 course high will be able to hold anything back. After it rains and settles it will bulge and bulge then burst and collapse.

I used softwood for the main timber and painted it white and used oak treads to make it a bit more fancy. 10 years in and both are holding up well. It kept the cost down a fair bit as well. I used a temp staircase until the last few days to stop the nice one getting wrecked. Just made it out of 6*2. Wrapped the oak treads in carpet to protect them until the day we moved in.

To be fair there would still be very limited access to quality installers of heat pumps in NI. Oil would be widespread here with a multitude of options for installing and servicing. The price of oil is low now but it fluctuates yearly. Electricity prices have been fairly consistent until this past 2 years. Have you got proper as built heat/dhw demand calculation done yet?? You could always install oil now but with pipes/electric connections already installed so in the future if you wanted to install a heat pump it would be a much easier option.

Down the cavity and I assume to an earthing rod.

Wouldn't have the first clue.

Other side of that wall approx 2m away.

I take it a cable comes from that rcbo and goes into the house, 2m approx, to my CU. Wouldn't have a clue what type of cable it is. Have a multi meter if that is any use.

It's the breaker on the right. The left hand one is power to my shed. I have left it off to rule that out and it still trips with that off.

Main trip outside in the electrical cabinet. Nothing ever trips in the CU.