Declan52

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Declan52 last won the day on November 24 2019

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About Declan52

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  1. From that front lip you would want maybe 20-25mm of a gap till your render then another 20-25mm for the render. But it all depends on that front gap. Some like that to be 10 mm so it sits further onto the block but then you have barely an edge before the render. It's just about how they wanted it to look from below.
  2. Did they build up to that height and then went to put the fancy sandstone ledge on and in doing so realise they where way out of plumb and square and have stepped it back in in order to give less issues fitting the truss.
  3. In NI when they closed the rhi scheme you had to have it installed and commissioned and the paperwork into them by the shut of date. Some installers where working round the clock to beat the deadline. Just phone them up and ask what will they accept.
  4. I think you have to make an appointment to visit an apple store to get anything looked at by their jedi masters.
  5. Best advice yet. Take it into an apple store and see if they will give you your money back and go and buy a good Android tablet!!!
  6. Declan52

    laying blocks

    Do not under estimate the physical toll of carrying that amount of blocks and mortar will have on someone who has never done this type of work before. Your fingers will have little to no skin left on them. Your knees, back, elbows and wrists will be sore each and every day. Plus by the time you have the house built you might have become pretty decent at laying blocks and go and look at the first few walls you built and cringe at what way you left them.
  7. The waste pipe will be put in before the pour. You need to know the size of the tray so you can use some timber to create an opening. Then you can easily connect it all up when the time comes. They will be no ufh pipes under the tray so nothing can get damaged. You can just fill the opening with sand to make it safer to work round.
  8. There was a 100 waste pipe already set in the sub floor so I used the correct cap and bend to get it roughly where it needed to be. I had a channel cut out of the floor insulation which allowed me some wiggle room for moving the pipe and waste trap. Dry fitted the tray to make sure the trap was where it needed to be and then covered the waste pipe in sand then the dry sand cement mix.
  9. I left a rectangular hole in my screed, used 3*2 to form the opening, to allow my finished floor to go down. Once I had my tiles picked out I could work out my final height and used a strong dry mix of sand and cement to fill the hole up to the height it needed to be. My tray was also the same size and it's heavy so it's not the sort of thing you would move when you stub your toe on it. The weight of the surrounding slab keeps the insulation from moving plus with the gap round the outside of the tray filled in once you where happy with how it set it can't move so was solid.
  10. The use of a tile or anything for that matter isn't really a big deal. It happens. Won't cause any issues. The bigger issue looking at the last few pics is either that house is way way out of square or really out of plumb. Have you enough room between the wall and the scaffold at each corner to drop a plumb Bob to check how bad it could be. A long piece of string and a weight, bolt would work.
  11. You can still use a PV diverter with what you have. It tells your immersion heater to heat up instead of sending excess electric back to the grid.
  12. A pic would help. Are you just looking this bit covered in to make it look nice or to stop damp etc getting through.
  13. I only mentioned the issue I had with condensation as in the original post they stated that it was too be sited in a cold loft. Was more of a warning to be careful with the room extract ducts as these aren't usually insulated. Never had any issues with the insulated ducts leaving the unit heading to the tile vents.