Declan52

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Declan52 last won the day on November 24 2019

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  1. The inner course is not FFL. On top of the ground in each of them pics you will have if possible hardcore then Dpm then insulation and a concrete sub floor or the finshed slab if that's how your doing the build. FFL could be anywhere between 150-225mm higher depending on ground conditions and the amount of insulation your putting in the floor. It's not for stepped cavity tray either. You can at this stage put one in but you only do a cavity tray like that if the outside ground heights are going to be higher than normal. It's left at this height so your first layer of cavity insulation boards/batts will be below the finshed floor level so no cold spot as your wall ties will start on top of the inner block work. This will leave a 225mm gap underneath where any motar droppings can fall to and not cause any issue. The lower section is where you start the brickwork or blocks but both have to match height wise going up for the wall ties.
  2. I use it for the moss on my roof. Take the packet of the copper sulphate and a watering can onto the roof and using a garden hose fill the watering can up and walk along my ridge pouring the mix onto the tiles and let it run down the roof. You just need to make sure it doesn't come into contact with any metal like guttering or roof windows etc. It keeps my roof pretty clean and lasts 2 years easy for a few mins work.
  3. Could you expand a bit more on what you mean by hair and fur???
  4. Basically no. A single skin block wall won't hold back that amount of pressure. You want the wall to have steps so the earth its holding back rests on these and stops it toppling over. So your bottom course would be 450mm wide then steps in to 330mm for another course. Then 1 course at 215mm and a single row of 215mm then a block on its edge, 100mm wide. This will give you a height of 1m. You backfill with clean gravel with some sort of drainage channel or weep holes in the block work. The membrane sits on the ledges of the steps and helps to hold the wall in place.
  5. My house is beside a very busy road and the triple glazing really helps to kill the sound of lorries going over the speed bumps that my lovely council decided to place right outside my bedroom window.
  6. Put a post up on Facebook and tell all in your friends list to share it and hopefully somebody knows someone who will see it who was also stung and they can get in contact with you.
  7. Did they expand their reasons with a bit more information as in see picture abc that is bad workmanship because xyz etc. When they say wrong beads what is the difference between what you used and what they recommend and if you bought the system as a package they surely the correct beads would have been included. And what is too close to the ground and how could they come to that conclusion without an actual site visit and measurements taken.
  8. I used fence runners bedded on some concrete as these are treated. These where set at the height I needed and then acted as a screed rail to leave the surface dead flat. Rolled it out and let it sit a day or 2 so it could shrink/expand as needed. Then used a lot of Stanley blades and cut it and used green decking screws to attach it to the runners.
  9. I use sodium hypochlorite to clean mine. Kills everything that's not meant to be there and brings the pavers up looking brand new. A 25 litre drum costs £15 here and it goes a long way.
  10. How would you stop them moving about when you walk on them. Either bed them on sharp sand which will help drainage Or Put them on eBay or Facebook marketplace. Use the money to buy some composite decking.
  11. Plasterboard needs something substantial to attach to so it can hold its weight plus keep its shape so it stays flat. The suspended ceiling you have is for very light weight ceiling tiles. The metal and wire used is suitable for the ceiling tiles but will just bend and collapse if you attach plasterboard to it.
  12. It was a massive thing in my area, local concrete company specializes in it, and it does look great when it's finished. But like all concrete products the sun has bleached any I have seen and caused them to look many years older than they are.
  13. There's no sugar coating it, doing a self build is hard hard work. Shat will happen and end up causing you sleepless nights, stress and plenty of grey hairs and wrinkles but when it's done and 99% finished and your sitting in your new house enjoying a gin/whiskey/wine you will forget all that's went before. Do lots and lots of research and never ever be afraid to question something that doesn't look or sound right. Just a simple reply like" you couldn't go over that again as I can't quite work that out in my head" might help you sleep a bit better as that extra bit of understanding between you and the tradesman got you on the same page. Being organised is vital. Having all your choices made way before you need to will help the job run smooth. Ask around your local area with regards finding a builder who has done some self builds to do the job or get something like a timber frame package which can eliminate a lot of the risk. And remember to breathe. Things always go wrong no matter how good you or the builder are. Deliveries don't arrive, wrong materials get sent out and nothing can find a water pipe hidden behind plasterboard quicker than an apprentice and a cordless screwdriver. Good luck.
  14. It's all in the base. To ensure it's not going to sink you need a lot of very well compacted hardcore under the drive. You could also use a sand cement screed for under the bricks.For a drive your edges need concreted in to stop it spreading out.