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Declan52 last won the day on April 24

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About Declan52

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  1. You can always say you have had a rethink about the window and just want it left as is.
  2. Just leave it as it is. Why try to make it smaller by altering it when it will just be a bodge. If you use timber no matter what you do it will move different from the blocks so will crack. It's only 200mm wider. If you go for a thicker frame uPVC 3g unit most of that extra will be ate up by the frame width so you will have the actual glass near enough what you want.
  3. Your still clinging on for some reason trying to find a major structural fault with something which isn't an issue. For the sake of your own mental health and ours just move on.
  4. No once the window is in and it's plastered up you won't see any of it. In the famous words of the ice Princess Elsa just let it go. Your worrying over nothing. You have been told numerous times it's nothing to be concerned about so just file it away and move on to the next dilemma. The piece of slate is just there to help them bed the lintel up so it sits level. No big deal. Happens every day on every site.
  5. Seriously you need to take a breath and relax. You have got yourself all worked up over nothing and are only adding more stress which you can't handle. Strike the window bow of your list of things to confront the builder with and move on.
  6. It just wasn't propped with a bit of timber when the blocks went on top. It has sagged a bit , no big deal it happens. You could take the lintel out now and the blocks won't go anywhere so there is no chance of it falling down due to not being structurally sound. So take a breath and let your builder work away.
  7. For one less thing to be stressing over is it not just easier to put the window in at the original opening size. Why do you want it smaller??? A bigger window will let more light in and make a small room feel bigger.
  8. So you have an opening in a wall that's 2150mm wide that you want to reduce to 920mm??? If so just cut the blocks that aren't full blocks out and continue along till you get the width you want. As always a nice pic would really help with the confusion.
  9. You can add rapid hardener to your mix so the motar goes off but it is only good for temperatures around zero to -4. If it's going to drop to -10 overnight then you shouldn't really be building. Plus your talking near enough 1L of additive per bag of cement so it won't be cheap.
  10. These type of kerbs can stand 500mm high.
  11. Why not just put a row of dwarf kerbs around the edge to hold the bank back at it's original height then it will be a step down to the lower level. Here you can put a row of 3*2 concrete slabs to form a path round the outside and that's it done and finished and will be easy to keep clean and tidy.
  12. Are you sure it isn't roof collars. To get your wanted height the builder must be planning to use roof collars to stop the roof spreading out as you maybe aren't going to have a traditional ceiling. Will look like this.
  13. Did you get him to put anything down on paper though confirming that your ceiling height will be X mm from your finished floor?? Plus did you ask him what will be the actual makeup and dimensions of your finished floor, insulation depth + screed?? It's ok him saying that it will be Xyz but if you haven't got anything on paper then it's going to be still difficult to pull him up on anything.
  14. A road saw will cut that up into your rectangles pretty quick. Won't be cheap by the time you factor in the blade and the hire of the saw though.
  15. It all depends on what it's holding back. 420mm won't work with standard blocks, it will have to be 450mm. You could build the first course 225mm wide then step it in so it's 100mm wide for the 2nd course.