Thorfun

I got quotes from various sources as well but, in the end, Protek were by far the cheapest.

I got quotes from about 6 companies to ensure that I could get a good understand of what each offer and those costs involved. even if you think you've found your preferred TF supplier I would definitely get other quotes.

welcome to the forum. there are many people here who are very knowledgeable about lots of things so I'm sure you'll find some assistance for your issues.

Hi Dave. this is what I'm planning on doing but can I ask why one would want to run separate submains to the house AND the garage? I do have an EV so I'm thinking that a separate fusebox in the garage which can just deal with the car(s) would be useful, and also if we want extra external power in the future it would be easier to run from the garage rather than from the plant room in the basement. Are those reasons enough? or is there a technical reason to do so to split the load or whatever? I then have to figure out how Solar PV would fit in to the whole design if there are 2 separate fuse boxes and how I would feed the main house and the EVs with Solar PV. but I guess that's a whole other threads worth of questions!

doesn't sound like a great situation to be in. hopefully it all gets sorted soon for you. 🤞

I have to say @canalsiderenovation, you're very patient with your plumber! after all I've read about your issues with him and his work I am amazed that you're persevering with him. it sounds like his work quality is poor so what makes you think his rectification of the issues is going to be any good? I'd have gotten rid of him and found someone else to fix his mistakes. you've got the patience of a saint. 😇

welcome! I'm sure you'll find some great advice on here, I know I have. 🙂

could you 3d print some switches with the name of the switch cut out and then fit LEDs behind the plate so that the light shines through the lettering to illuminate it?

is this @pocster's new account?

I apologise if you took my comment seriously. I’ll try and add a few extra sarcastic emojis next time to show it wasn’t serious.

https://www.justairguns.co.uk

for me rock wool between the TF wins hands down simply for the ease of installation. the last thing I want to be doing is cutting PIR to size to fit! *&^% that.

that's interesting as I went through these same calculations and I get 0.12W/m2K with Frametherm 32 and 80mm PIR. but now I think about it that uValue calculator puts the thermal conductivity of PIR as 0.023W/mK whereas you can buy 0.020W/mK PIR (obviously costs more though!) which is how I would've got to the lower uValue. I still thought Frametherm 32 made a bit more of a difference though. your choices are definitely feasible and that is exactly what I'm doing and our architects didn't have a problem with it at all. so I'd say crack on! fair enough. it doesn't make a huge difference but, as they say, every little helps. (other supermarket advertising slogans are available)

and it's what I plan to use in my house. 🙂

if you use 140mm of Frametherm 32 between the studs you can reduce the internal PIR to probably around 40mm or 50mm to get those uValues. Also, in your uValue calculations you haven't added your external cladding. that will also reduce your uValue so probably best to add it now. oh, and it's a breathable membrane on the outside not a VCL. 😉