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mike2016 last won the day on November 27 2016

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About mike2016

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  1. Thanks - think I'll trace the switched live and see if I connected that through ok - was hoping it would run the fan based on the humidity sensor even after the pull cord was turned off. Then I'll trace the spot light cabling and make sure it's not spliced anywhere it shouldn't be. Cheers.
  2. They are LED lights and operate normally on their own switch. But when they are left switched off, and I disable the isolation on the new shower fan circuit that's when they start flashing....!!
  3. I decided to reroute the shower fan off the main light switch so I can run it independently in the summer. There are two light switches, one for spots, one for the overhead light. I wired up the new fan unit behind a pull cord and a isolator switch outside & above the bathroom door. Today I connected the new circuit into the overhead light circuit. All good until I turned the circuit on via the new isolator - the spot lights starting flashing. I never touched that circuit so that's very strange. It's hardly induction from the AC by wires crisscrossing in the attic is it? I'll have to trace the spot light to switch cable and see where it feeds off but was a bit surprised! I reverted until I investigate but any ideas why this can happen - is my new wiring that bad?!! Thanks.
  4. Sure - check out the overheating post I made much earlier, the elevations are in there.
  5. I had to buy the house to get the site so I'm not eleigible for the 30K first time buyers grant anymore. And correct, no VAT rebate over here in ROI. The house the salesman quoted was priced at 350K originally and they got it down to 285K by going line by line through the spec.There is still VAT at the end though. I could chance trying to get my 325K price back down to 275K but the VAT really kills me even then. My other limiting factor is that the 285K house was build in a very exclusive area so the bank would have valued the new house above the build price. I've the opposite problem, my build price is always above the "what a similar new house would cost on the market in my area" and I only get 80% of the lower of the two figures off the bank. I've either to have a lot more cash (50L-100K) saved up or more equity (say in 5 years) before I take the plunge. I'm 49 so I can wait 5 years and have 50% equity or 10 years and pay off my mortgage and build at 60 for cash and finish in my own time so I'm not lost, just stuck/delayed! # Or sell the site/house and move elsewhere! I just have to decide next year to extend planning another 5 years or leave it and reapply new in 10 years time and build on my own terms without a bank dictating terms anymore. What the market will be like then though, who knows?!!
  6. Oh well - it's off again. Sales guy didn't quote VAT and the price the builder proposed was massively higher than the one they supposedly finished recently which was bigger in size?!! I might have a chat with them but long story short, their estimates came out the same as what the tender responses came in on last year. No deal! Back to the drawing board......or sell the site!
  7. I've a sister nearby or can rent a room privately as there's just me for the build duration. It's a 3-bed detached house, will probably take 6 months but there's a gap of course between selling my old house and booking the builder so probably 9 months to a year elsewhere. I've to juggle the total build cost, the sale price of my house, the valuation of the new house vs what the bank will give me!! Great fun!! Hope the costs add up for you, if this builder falls through I'll postpone for a year and look again at direct labour and other options. I think Brexit could affect supply if not also price next year so that's another risk too!!
  8. Interesting developments in the last week. While trying to figure out a way forward for my build as cheaply as possible I discovered a company that does SIPs and has just finished a slight larger house for a LOT less than the tender prices that shut me down last year (€375k). So my job this month is to crunch the numbers again, get a more formal quote from them and see if this is a runner. As always there are three factors I've to balance: Architects fees - the crowd I used before are brilliant but very expensive. I've a different Architect doing an analysis to see what he would charge to take over. Also the builder has their own Architect I'll approach to see if I can use them instead. Kit Home - There are two companies who work together and seem to deliver you a turnkey house - just move in the furniture. I'm a bit dubious how they do this for such a good price so will visit one of their builds if possible. I know they use PVC for windows and soffit/fascia so will see what spec of ASHP and MVHR they use and if these are of the cheaper variety or not once they return a spec I can look at. Bank - ah, the bank! Build cost + Arch fees + 10% contingency - I'll get funded max 80% (as a second time buyer) of this or 80% of the projected value of the finished house, whichever is less. I can see some creative accounting coming on here...! Plus my old house has to sell for enough to get me the equity I need - this is attached to the site (side garden) so need to sell before I draw down new mortgage. The builder uses SIPs, nothing against them, should work fine. I've a budget of €260K and their initial guesstimate was €275K so not far off. A more accurate quote is on the way and I'll see how much this goes up (!). Like the build triangle (quality, price, speed / good-quick-cheap) I've three legs that need to all function to get this over the line: Valuation of finished house based on location, spec and current market value - house prices are holding / still going up slightly so ok there so far. I need a good valuation though, got €350K last year but hope for detached I'll get a little more. Builders price for 2021 build - I'll have to pick apart the spec a bit and see what I can live with and what I might have to change but if I can get a decent fabric it might just work. The things I'd like to do might not be possible as this is right on my budget but at least it's a hands off build for the money, so I won't be working double jobs trying to do as much myself as possible. Architect - haven't found one willing to work with me yet, two turned me down, one is thinking about it and the original Architects are bloody expensive. Will see how this goes....I could pay them out of pocket but if their costs go into the costings submitted to the bank I have to prove I can afford them up front, probably looking at 20K just for them with all the reg required in ROI now. Anyway, should know more in a week but will line up other options in the meantime in case. Wish this post was about the build already but if this happens it's going to happen quick and I'm certain this is the best shot I'll get at it for a good while. One day I'll be sticking photos of the build up there and updating everyone as each stage goes up.
  9. I'd try to plan for extra wooden battens in the service cavity (between the existing studs) to take the weight of any heavy items, like kitchen carcasses, bathroom fixtures etc where their fixings are going to be. If air tightness is important to you ensure any penetrations are sealed and one cable per seal (there are specialised seals for this, not sure what they are called!) If plasterboarding on interior you can get heavier duty plasterboard (gyproc habito) or fermacell with has a higher hang strength but easier to just find a stud as Peter says!
  10. I'll do it from the waiting room inside A&E so....!!! Cheers.
  11. Is it possible to use an expanding foam can more than once? I got a foam gun and foam gun/nozzle cleaner and that part works fine but I'm trying to use a can I used last a few months ago and it's bunged up. Don't want to go poking around a pressurised container with a screw to clean out the feed. What are people's thoughts? Thanks!
  12. I'm considering installing a single bedroom ventilation unit, something like the Blauberg Mini-Air or similar as my bedroom gets very stuffy at night. I live beside a main road. The existing passive vent is mostly blocked except for a diy z vent channel designed to keep out noise but very little air makes it through without a tailwind. My question is around installing the external part of the Blauberg, I need to remove the existing grill. It's at 1st floor height and I've only a ladder. I'm weighing up the risk of chipping away at the render at this height and figuring out how the grill is held in place so I can remove it. Not something I've ever done before. Or I multi tool out a 104mm circular hole (seems to be metal) for the vent pipe and fit the new cowl over the old vent and fix in place? I can access it from inside if so to do that much easier. The old grill is 200mm (w) x 150mm (h), the new cowl is 175mm (w) x 222mm (h) Any ideas? Thanks.
  13. If your house is as big as I think maybe its time to buy more solar PV panels and a battery to timeshift off peak electricity (with a more agile tariff) and generate a lot more during the day. A pair of Tesla powerwalls for example and see if Tesla solar tiles are coming to the UK soon? Ground mount array might also be an option or a small wind turbine depending on your location? You're prioritizing usage which is the best approach but as you can't do anything about the pool etc, maybe time to look at a heat pump for the pool and doubling down on your Solar PV capacity? North England might not be the sunny south east but your solar supplier should be able to model different array solutions / projected generation etc.
  14. Got some of that paint for the floor and blinds for the windows. Started out on the floor and got help from a friend for the ceiling which was awkward. Walls are next.....!! Thanks all.
  15. Neoprene on! So I got plywood as the internal finish. I'll paint the walls and ceiling but how should I treat/paint the 12mm hardwood faced plywood floor (on top of 30mm XPS in this case)? Use a decking treatment? Thanks!