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mike2016 last won the day on November 27 2016

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About mike2016

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    Dublin, Ireland

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  1. I'm retrofitting an MVHR unit shortly and have found a route for the 32mm condensation drain to the washing machine/tumble dryer pipe. Two questions: What is the best P Trap to use under the MVHR to allow easy access/maintenance later (ensure water is present and top up as necessary)? Is a bottle trap better to use here or a hepvo waterless trap? I've two hoses (1" & 1/2") from the appliances going into a 1 1/2" waste pipe, what's the best way to add the 32mm drain pipe to this arrangement as they are just stuffed down the pipe currently...! Thanks all!
  2. I had a site, planning and tendered but the prices I received were not realistic. One builder I'd pinned my hopes on didn't even respond. Maybe the spec was too much, but I pulled out but hope to return in 3-4 years when I have more equity. I can extend the planning another 5 years in ROI easily enough for €65 so don't feel the investment is lost. So, advice - be honest about what you can afford and negotiate any offers with what you are comfortable doing yourself to get it within budget. Go for it! Get yourself the best people you can find, Federation of Master builders would be my go to and word of mouth if I was in the UK. Credit check all the big players. Solicitor Escrow account for big deposits if you can rather than hand the money over months in advance. Good insurance for you, your site and check all the contractors ones out as best you can. And use the resources and advice here to check anything you're not sure about. Photos and your questions can catch something quick enough to prevent bigger problems later on. Take lots of photos and videos of progress each day, handy for many reasons! Oh, and enjoy the journey!
  3. Cheers - might be a reflection from the headlights of that particular car so! My grass sets off the rear PIR if I can't get it cut short enough for the winter whenever there is a heavy wind blowing. Might look into that microwave one if that is outdoor rated? Thanks all.
  4. Couldn't find anything on google about this so thought I'd try here.... I used to have two cheap solar led lights on my shed outside and whenever a bus was parked on the road opposite they would go off despite no line of sight to the PIR. I've since retired them and have a reputable version out from covering a small nook there. A wierd thing happens when 1 particular car passes by, the light turns on, but it doesn't do this for any other car and there is a good 9-10 meter distance. I have to stand within 3-4 meters to set it off myself. So, question begs what sort of EMI or interference could cause this? Just curious! Thanks.
  5. You'd see more detail without carpet but it would be unusual for a single loop to heat / not heat some areas, the same fluid runs through it, I could only imagine that happening if a specific zone wasn't working. Have you the contact of who installed the system, maybe give them a call and see what they suggest checking? FLIR aren't cheap but you could also use a cheap point and press temperature gauge to get some spot values without breaking the bank. My library loan them out with an energy awareness kit for free...... Two possibilities, this is only happening since the flood, or it's only been noticed since the flood. Do you know the makeup of the foundation - is it screed/concrete other? Is the underfloor heating a retrofit on top of an existing floor etc?
  6. Have you anyone you know who has a thermal imaging camera? Anything like a FLiR One which attaches to a mobile phone you could borrow? That would show the underfoor loops at least very clearly but sorry, don't know unless there is a specific loop that isn't working - check the manifold to see if all zones are open and working? Has the heating in those rooms/areas been working previously? Sorry to hear about the flood damage.
  7. There's 3 x vents at the front of the house and 3 at the back. There would have been more gaps before I installed the Glidevales at the eaves. They have channels in them but I need something solid to hold back the loose cellulose. I have a few of those membrane lap vents, there are no ridge vents but it's a low pitch. I may try adding more membrane lap vents and see how that performs.....
  8. I was up in the attic a few weeks ago after upgrading the insulation and noticed a lot of condensation which was dripping onto everything. I was running a Positive Input Ventilation unit but reckon it was defrosting / using the heater which added a lot of heat into the attic over time as the landing wasn't freezing cold on those nights. Anyway, I turned this off and it's gotten a lot better but was up again yesterday and noticed the attic trusses are wet where they meet the roofing felt and there is still some but not much condensation on the inside of the felt although this is improving. I replace 100mm of fibreglass with cellulose between the joists and added 200mm knauf earthwool on top. I used glidevale rv655 baffles at the roof edges to maintain airflow. I've a few additional vents to open up the felt every other rafter or so on each side. The attic trusses on the side of the roof where the solar pv panels are don't have this issue, only the other side. I've a good seal on the attic hatch and been closing one or two old pipe holes but wonder if I've not enough ventilation or just have to wait for a windy day to help clear this out? I just don't like see the attic trusses wet like that..... all suggestions welcome!
  9. mike2016

    2nd Dec ASHP - or not

    Who wrote the article?!! Was it one of those "advertorials"? SAP will push you towards renewable solutions. Any heating source that's poorly specified is going to perform horribly. ASHP have to be paired with an air tight, well insulated structure to perform well with it's lower heat levels compared to oil/gas. There's no reason the running costs need to be more, you're in control of when it runs and can pair it with Solar PV and flexible tariffs. You're not in control of oil prices although you have a tank and some oil to fall back on there but when you refill, you have to pay whatever the market rate is. As ASHP is newer technology, the market % means there are less of them being installed compared to Gas boilers so economies of scale haven't kicked in yet, so there's an obvious gap. At the end of the day you're in control of your budget and choosing the best means to heat your house within the bounds of legislation. I just wouldn't knock ASHP because of one article, that's all. The same publication have "air source heat pumps explained" available online if you search from 6th February 2019. Best of luck with whichever choice meets your needs.
  10. Thanks - think I'll trace the switched live and see if I connected that through ok - was hoping it would run the fan based on the humidity sensor even after the pull cord was turned off. Then I'll trace the spot light cabling and make sure it's not spliced anywhere it shouldn't be. Cheers.
  11. They are LED lights and operate normally on their own switch. But when they are left switched off, and I disable the isolation on the new shower fan circuit that's when they start flashing....!!
  12. I decided to reroute the shower fan off the main light switch so I can run it independently in the summer. There are two light switches, one for spots, one for the overhead light. I wired up the new fan unit behind a pull cord and a isolator switch outside & above the bathroom door. Today I connected the new circuit into the overhead light circuit. All good until I turned the circuit on via the new isolator - the spot lights starting flashing. I never touched that circuit so that's very strange. It's hardly induction from the AC by wires crisscrossing in the attic is it? I'll have to trace the spot light to switch cable and see where it feeds off but was a bit surprised! I reverted until I investigate but any ideas why this can happen - is my new wiring that bad?!! Thanks.
  13. Sure - check out the overheating post I made much earlier, the elevations are in there.
  14. I had to buy the house to get the site so I'm not eleigible for the 30K first time buyers grant anymore. And correct, no VAT rebate over here in ROI. The house the salesman quoted was priced at 350K originally and they got it down to 285K by going line by line through the spec.There is still VAT at the end though. I could chance trying to get my 325K price back down to 275K but the VAT really kills me even then. My other limiting factor is that the 285K house was build in a very exclusive area so the bank would have valued the new house above the build price. I've the opposite problem, my build price is always above the "what a similar new house would cost on the market in my area" and I only get 80% of the lower of the two figures off the bank. I've either to have a lot more cash (50L-100K) saved up or more equity (say in 5 years) before I take the plunge. I'm 49 so I can wait 5 years and have 50% equity or 10 years and pay off my mortgage and build at 60 for cash and finish in my own time so I'm not lost, just stuck/delayed! # Or sell the site/house and move elsewhere! I just have to decide next year to extend planning another 5 years or leave it and reapply new in 10 years time and build on my own terms without a bank dictating terms anymore. What the market will be like then though, who knows?!!
  15. Oh well - it's off again. Sales guy didn't quote VAT and the price the builder proposed was massively higher than the one they supposedly finished recently which was bigger in size?!! I might have a chat with them but long story short, their estimates came out the same as what the tender responses came in on last year. No deal! Back to the drawing board......or sell the site!