Tosh

We purchased Norrsken. Very pleased with the quality of the windows/doors themselves. Though I am slightly disappointed with the window handles, broken one within 2 wks of fitting them already. Admittedly only a tenner or so to replace but then maybe that says it all. We only found out they were cheapos afterwards. Would've liked to have been given the option to specifiy better quality. Despite this would I buy Norrsken again, yes definitely. I would highly recommend you visit some showrooms, it really gives you a good sense of the difference in appearance, quality of the products.

Whats underneath may be the issue e.g. soft spot. Not clear but looks like a 6mm wearing course, what did they lay it onto e.g. existing tarmac, stone, etc? What prep did they do? 6mm top coat really needs a good bitmac subbase e.g. 40-50mm of 20mm bitmac otherwise it will just shift around, especially in warm weather and wheel scrubbing. Or if its going on existing tarmac then a coat of bitumen emulsion to make the two bond together. Or possibly had the wacker in one place for too long and over wacker'd it in that one place to remove some of the lines, or a lump maybe and its just showing more prominent now? Steep drives are problematic to tarmac - on one hand you want good consolidation which you need a roller for but on the other hand the roller tends to push the tarmac down the slope creating lumps n bumps. Wackers are ok for doing the edges and tight spots but I wouldn't recommend them to consolidate something you're going to drive on. A single bowl walk behind roller may have been a better option. Could be a number of reasons but usually the problem is in the sub base/prep. Do you have any pictures of before it was done?

Hi @Marvin yes just a single unit (their options below). Yes the light blue is the MVHR unit. Green is supply manifold. Red extract manifold. TBH I'm more geared to other units atm but thats another story. However I'm still trying to get my head around these units of circa 600 m3/h and the calculations in my spreadsheet which would indicate a unit of circa 260m3/h?

Gosh thats quite a difference to the 580 m3/h unit BPC recommended. What do you think BPC would've based their sizing on? When I spoke to them they just kept saying 'its based on the drawings you sent us' which obviously wasn't very helpful! Well not me at least..

Here's the layout that BPC sent back to me. A couple of points: we have no ceiling space on the first floor hence why the valves are positioned on walls; there is a ceiling void above the landing but stops at the gallery which I can some ducts but not sure if thats preferable to just feeding from below and up into each room throught the studs (oval ubbink?). The sitting room/gallery is not a closed room. The door is an error on the drawing, it has a balustrade to the hallway/stairs void. the xls I've populated dismisses the extract outlet on the large void as I read somewhere on the forum that all this would do is pull smells from kitchen?

Being confused is easy; my appetite to learn is ok, its the understanding thats getting harder as I get older 🤣 Yes I was pondering over that one. I'll tweek the adj figures. But what size unit do those calculations show i need? Would it be 2 x 263m3/h i.e. is the theory that if it was on full boost then it would need to up the supply as well? I'm not trying to penny pinch (cough cough) between units but just want some figures of my own as a basis to have some sensible conversations, if thats possible, with suppliers.

I need to order my ducting asap and have used a xls kindly shared by others on the forum. I've input the numbers but would be grateful for some sanity check and interpretation. Do the numbers I've input look correct e.g. 'air quality adj'? What size unit does all this info tell me I need? Anything else that doesn't look right to the well trained eye? I do have a design from BPC and they said I need a 580m3/h unit. They also used twin 75mm ducting to most outlets but I'd prefer to go larger and with less runs as our plant room is on the Grd Fl at one end of the house. I must admit I struggled to get much help when I quizzed them about the design. I got the impression that they didn't want to share too much info for whatever reason. Any advice appreciated 🙂

Just seen this announcement https://www.silvatimber.co.uk/silva-timber-investment-opportunity/. Shame, hope they find a way through.

I agree Zinc looks a wonderful material when you have a sample in front of you or when its 3 feet away from you. Our installer took me around a few jobs he'd done in steel and zinc and asked me to guess what they were before he told me. From the ground you couldn't tell any difference other than the zinc had mildly more oil canning. On one job they were still working on I even went up the scaffold and had to get right in the face of the zinc before I could tell any difference (he requested I kindly didn't mention this in front of his client 🤐). Needless to say I went with PLX in the end and absolutely love it. I also rest a little bit easier as there's many stories of zinc failing as well. Once its on I don't think you'll be disappointed with the PLX. More important to find a reputable installer and get the substructure right IMO.

This is what they're probably on about https://www.aico.co.uk/product/ei129-hard-wired-switched-input-module/ Its connected to the rest of your alarms and sets them off if your sprinkler activates.

I would think OSB3 would be fine as long as there's no risk of it getting wet i.e. its not certified for exposue to weather, though it can cope with humid condidtions. Its regularly specified for metal roof substrates with a membrane between metal and OSB. We've got around 150sqm of it on our roof so it better be ok 😬

I would say its more important you have a strucural engineer who understands ICF than the architect. After all an architect should be familiar with co-ordinating dimensions of any material e.g. bricks/blocks, etc etc. ICF shouldn't be that hard for them to get their head around. An SE on the other hand can waste you a vaste amount of money by over specifying rebar.

No just the standard blocks. Don't think xr35 was available, or at least we weren't made aware of them, when we purchased which is a few years ago now. Would defintely of considered them.

Lintels only on our Nudura 8''

There's no way that drill should lift from the metal with the mag on. How hard are you pulling on the handle?? That alone could indicate its f*****d to me. Sounds like it may have got overheated along the line somewhere. Plus pulling hard on the handle will put too much pressure and snap a bit. Theragain what bits r u using - annular or twist.