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Nick Laslett

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  1. Hello Geoff, I enjoyed your visit. Here are some good threads from when I was looking at this topic. Another product that might be of interest is OSB3 SmartPly from Medite, this has an airtight membrane already attached. https://mdfosb.com/en/products/smartply-airtight Forum top tip, you can tag someone to a post by using the @ symbol and their user name, e.g. @G and J, @Nick Laslett, this will then send them a notification. Not something to abuse, but when you are trying to get a specific subject matter expert it can be useful.
  2. Fermacell powerpanel H20 is designed for this. But probably one of the most expensive solutions. https://www.saimaxx.com/fermacell-h20-powerpanel-12-5mm-x-2-6m-x-1-2m-square-edge-board-75054-115343.html https://www.insulationshop.co/image/catalog/pdf/Fermacell/product-data-sheet-fermacell-powerpanel-h2o.pdf https://www.youtube.com/embed/LpnG1d8hJL0 I used Marmox multiboard for shower area and then swapped to standard fermacell board for rest of the room, but all my walls are 2 layers anyway. Marmox do a nice pre-made niche for the shower area. https://www.marmox.co.uk/range/multiboard-products
  3. @MortarThePoint I used the Wavin Osma AAV 4S306, which is A2 rated. However the 4S304 appears to be able to be installed below spillover level. https://www.wolseley.co.uk/wcsstore/ExtendedSitesCatalogAssetStore/images/products/AssetPush/DTP_AssetPushHighRes/std.lang.all/ti/on/Wavin_Osma_Soil-Waste_Installation.pdf *Edit Just had a looked at the BBA cert for the Wavin Osma AAV 4S304, this gives very clear guidance on installation location. Added another pic. https://wavin-digital-indianajones-prod.storage.googleapis.com/assets/category/1520297e-f72b-4c71-9b89-dc027056ec87/d3c79907-6216-49e4-b861-3f792432bcdc/2b939e03-ca09-4297-8f3b-828b5b200e22 The British Plastics Foundation have a good guide on AAV https://www.bpfpipesgroup.com/media/71872/Air-admittance-valves-for-domestic-properties-v2-Jan-2024.pdf
  4. ASHP cooling is one of the cornerstones of my design. I didn’t want to install AC. You may only need active cooling on average 3-4 weeks* a year in my part of England, but it sure would be nice to make things a little cooler during those times. There are a number of different strategies you can deploy for cooling. I chose to have UFH both downstairs and upstairs in insulated concrete slabs. These slabs will create a cold heatsink to cool the whole house. I only put in the UFH upstairs for the cooling. You can set the ASHP weather compensation curve to be 2°c above the dew point. You would also insulate the pipe work. Is there a risk the UFH pipes in the slabs will cause a problem, to be honest I don’t really know. All the other associated pipework is visible to inspection in my build. The weather has been so poor this year, that I’ve only had the cooling mode active on 2 occasions just for fun. My system was only commissioned in April. *this is a made up figure. I have no idea how many evenings a year have temperatures above 27°c. Although the Met Office told me this May was the hottest on recorded, so forgive me for being very sceptical about any official data.
  5. In the comments Adam is asked if it is vented or unvented and where the expansion vessel goes. He replied,
  6. New mini store water tank from Newark Cylinders designed with Heat Geek. Specifically for ASHP, with 40° water temp requirement. Not an unvented Cylinder apparently. How it works video will be up tomorrow.
  7. Great suggestion. Another option is the Google Earth app specifically on PC/Mac, this allows you to see many more satellite images going back 30 years. You have to download the app to be able to do this, it is not available in the web version. https://support.google.com/earth/community-guide/256123000/versions-of-google-earth-desktop-web-mobile?hl=en
  8. Hello all, my build is in IP31 mid-way between Bury St Ed’s and Stowmarket. We broke ground back into 2021. My wife and I have tried to do as much of the work ourselves. We are halfway through the internals. On site most days pushing the project forward. Found BuildHub very early on in the thinking process, so was able to incorporate a lot of the ideas discussed here. We have an insulated slab foundation, and used ICF for the fabric and EPS boards for the roof. ASHP, MVHR, UFH in the slab, Solar panels in roof. Target PH airtightness. Metal framing, Fermacell boards. Sun cool solar control glass. Very happy to have visitors, if you want to get a better feel for some of this stuff, please PM. We are complete beginners, with no previous building experience. The people and resources on this forum are amazing.
  9. @zzPaulzz, @Alan Ambrose, I have sent a PM.
  10. If sound is your main priority this looks like an ASHP worth considering. Spec sheet says: Sound power level (EN 12102) = 48 dB(A) The equivalent spec for my Panasonic WH-MDC05J3E5 is: Sound power level (EN 12102) = 60 dB(A) Vaillant aroTHERM plus 7kW Sound power level (EN 12102) = 53 dB(A) These are all at A7/W35 They seem especially pleased about the low noise and have made a video about it.
  11. I used a local Suffolk firm for the groundworks, Kore for the materials, Tanner for the design and MBC team at weekends for assembling the EPS, reinforcing mesh, DPM, UFH, etc. They then did the pour and the power float. The only company I have in my bookmarks that @garrymartin hasn’t listed is: https://futurefound.co.uk But I never contacted them, so don’t take this as a recommendation.
  12. I have an MBC slab. Their team did mine at the weekends, whist doing MBC ones in the week.
  13. That is a great find. Bit annoyed all my searching in 2019 didn’t unearth this. I did look at Warmup, but must have not looked hard enough.
  14. This was my main concern. There is a post somewhere from @Nickfromwales in one of the insulated slab threads where he talks about how robust these pipes can be. I tried to find a UFH pipe where they specifically said it could be tied to rebar in a concrete slab, but was not very successful. Even the question “is pert more robust than pex?”, or the other way round is very difficult to find an answer to. I believe the HDPE outer layer of the Wundatrade pipe is why they claim it is okay to go in screed. Another outfit, Optimum Underfloor Heating which uses PEX(b) pipe, in their installation instructions has an install in concrete slab. Page 4 of their installation guide. https://www.optimumunderfloor.co.uk/s/Optimum-Installation-Guide.pdf This is not to say that PERT-Al-PERT is not good for this requirement. I’m sure it is excellent and will do a good job. It would just be reassuring to have a manufacture confirm this specific use case, without having to scour the internet with a fine tooth comb. It might just be as a homeowner, I don’t need to see this info and the installers have a handle on which is the best pipe. Unless I have missed the particular thread in question, I don’t believe on BuildHub anyone has shed any greater light on this specific use case, but I could be mistaken. Very happy to be corrected as this question comes up a lot, and things like ease of installation and pipe memory, are secondary in this particular use case, where robustness is the biggest concern. *Edits Here is a good discussion from the early days of BuildHub about the robustness of various UFH pipe. Here is the post I was thinking of from Nick.
  15. Hello @NSS, any success in trouble shooting this problem?
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