vala

@Nickfromwales As well as any other members who've used these auto air valves, https://www.heatingcontrolsonline.co.uk/emmeti-automatic-air-vent-p-821.html Has anyone come across these leaking from the grey auto venting cap? Noticed this evening that the valve on my return manifold is weeping, and by the looks of it has been for a while. It was left slightly loose as per the instructions for the auto venting to work. The one I've fitted to the flow manifold is still working fine.

Higher humidity in the winter?

I had air build up in the system last time it went through a period of being off and hoping these will help to get rid of the air once the system turns back on this time round. Last time it involved doing a full manual purge of all the loops so hoping this may mean this doesn't need to happen this time round. thanks Nick. 2 have been ordered. Got manual air valves at the moment on the manifold so will just remove those and replace with these. Aside from these there's just a temp gauge on the flow and return on the manifold. Is it worth swapping out one of these gauges for one with a pressure gauge?

Got some manual air valves on my Wunda UFH manifold and wondering if anyone has replaced or could recommend these automatic air valves, https://www.heatingcontrolsonline.co.uk/emmeti-automatic-air-vent-p-821.html thanks

I did consider this but again struggled to find anyone to quote. Contacted a fair few but no responses.

Origin have a configurator. You have to have a trade account to get access to it. We've got the OW-70's fitted but as you mentioned these only allow a max of 28mm glazing. I believe it's the OW-80 that accommodates triple glazing from them.

house was built in the 70's. haven't yet confirmed whether there's a structural slab or screed currently in place.

Thought on losing screed to save on how much to dig up. Current potential build up is as per @JohnMo's reply above. Then with tiles on top.

Hi, the pipes in trays, and screeded over was mentioned to me by the tiler. But I would much rather lose the screed if possible, maybe have to have a latex poured in case if the concrete isn't flat enough for the tiler but I'll let them deal with that. I just wasn't aware whether the different options would suit different house make ups? But yes, if the above is suited for the house then I'd rather go with that.

So looks like polished concrete may off be table now, so the back up option is to go tiles. Spoke to my tiler who noted that if the UFH pipes were installed above the slab, on clips or in trays, they could lay a 60-65mm screed and then tile on this (with the use of a decoupling mat). However also seen I could install the pipes on the insulation, have the slab poured, then look to have the tiling done. Is there any benefit to either option and would one be suited more depending on house make up? For reference its a 70's built semi detached with ~65mm cavities which will be filled with beads. Aside from the 200mm PIR which will be under the ground slab, first floor has UFH in a pug mix, and loft has ~250-300mm insulation.

We're looking for someone to pour the slab and polish it so it's then the finished floor. looking at terms for this the finish we like is 'cream'. From what I have read this is where they don't remove any materials but more so polish up the top layer.

Does anyone here have any recommendations for contractors to complete a polished concrete floor? I'm based in Milton Keynes. Thanks

yeah, it'll be the same builder so sure he'll some idea when he does the first part. Tiny, 9sqm. Literally just for a downstairs loo.

no idea on this yet. first thing is to get the shell of the extension done. Hopefully he fits us in this year, then once the weather warms up next year we'll have the slab in the house sorted.

builder mentioned it when we were discussing floor build up due to the UFH. not set on using it, just looking at other option and then will discuss with him. if we can lose the mesh then great, and can then just clip the pipe work to the PIR. slab is only circa 55sqm.