Temp

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Temp last won the day on March 2 2018

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  1. Perhaps look at one with a brush less motor. Should be quieter and less maintenance.
  2. This is what I got.. SWA cable from MCB in house CU. Braid connected to earth in the CU at the house end only. Earth rod at shed end. Garage CU in the shed with RCD for power sockets.
  3. The IET have a guide "ELECTRICAL INSTALLATIONS OUTDOORS: A SUPPLY TO A DETACHED OUTBUILDING". Not sure if link will work... https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://electrical.theiet.org/media/1695/electrical-installations-outdoors-a-supply-to-a-detached-outbuilding.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjp3-2y28TjAhUZi1wKHe0DCrMQFjAAegQIAxAB&usg=AOvVaw383FWw05Q6zVowQqp2B-0o&cshid=1563668016887
  4. The NHBC have a guide on Building near Trees. Removing trees can be the wrong thing to do as on some soil types it can cause heave. We have trees virtually touching our house. I don't recall any questions on trees when we insured it. We have clay soil and didn't need piled foundations, just had to line the trenches with foam boards.
  5. I'll be surprised if the moss is the cause.
  6. Apparently when you convert an agriculture building you can keep all of the structure and still claim the VAT back. See Peters comment in this thread. I've not checked the details.
  7. What exactly does your existing permission say? And what does the new application for a two storey house say you want to do? I disagree with Mike. If you only have permission for a conversion but knock the buildings down the planners may well come back and demand a new planning application. They will point out you have permission for a conversion not a knock down and rebuild. They may grant it or could be mean and say that now the buildings have gone you are trying to get permission for a new house in the country side which is against policy. Its unfair but it has happened before. People have been forced to go to appeal taking time and money. What I would do is check the foundations and if necessary amend your application to a knock down and rebuild.
  8. Indeed they can be quite large because they are normally only used where the ground isn't very permeable making soakaways impossible. Approved Document H (page 30-31) has some info. For example it suggests you need at least 250mm of permeable topsoil on the proposed site. I don't think you can calculate the size/footprint needed without info on the permeability. See paragraph 1.44 which refers to a method in 1.34-38. https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/442889/BR_PDF_AD_H_2015.pdf There are companies that will provide you with a Ground Condition report (typically used to design the foundations) and percolation/permeability test (soakaways etc). If you ask for a quote they will ask if you already have a digger on site or if they need bring one. Make sure you tell them the percolation/permeability test is with a view to a drainage mound. If you don't own the plot you would need owners permission.
  9. Perhaps ask your BCO if you can make one yourself? Take a trip to the DIY sheds to copy a design?. Hardwood door sills already profiled and glazing bead profiles/mouldings are available so I don't think you need to do any fancy machining. Will need a toughened glass sealed unit if the side panel is going to be full height (but any glass shop can make one for you to your template).
  10. Pretty sure you could get a nice hand made oak door and frame for less than £4k around my parts. Good question. On new buildings I think the clear open width needs to be 800 so an 838mm wide door would probably have to open past 90 degrees to be acceptable depending on how thick the door is. However on existing buildings its 750/775mm so should be ok.
  11. Heard this on Radio 4 today. Some people that used a private BCO have had to revert to the LABC. LABC wants evidence their foundations and drains were installed correctly but private BCO is now uncontactable. Moral of story... If you use a private BCO take hundreds of photos before covering anything.
  12. I ended up making my cables and put the connector in a small plastic box fixed under the eaves.
  13. There are a bunch of rules limiting what you can do without needing planning permission. Best work through each one on this page to be sure it doesn't cause a problem.. https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200130/common_projects/17/extensions
  14. If you want to rebuild or convert the building to a house you may need planning permission. Definitely if its never been a house or if the planners consider that use as a dwelling has been abandoned (which they probably will if no roof).