Temp

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Temp last won the day on February 4

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  1. I think you are ok because of the way "height" is defined on sloping ground. This will be familiar to people building extensions or outbuildings on sloping ground as it also applies to the way the eaves and ridge height are defined.. http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2015/596/pdfs/uksi_20150596_en.pdf See also.. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/permitted-development-rights-for-householders-technical-guidance Page 6 See also someone complaining about similar decking on sloping ground.. https://www.gardenlaw.co.uk/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=20009#p188412 You should probably check with the planners just in case I'm looking at out of date regs but I reckon its fine at least as far as planning regs go. Neighbourly relations are another matter. There is one important point. If you were to build the deck and then later extend it, the new part would be treated as a separate development. It's height would be measured from the highest ground adjacent to it, not the highest point adjacent to the original deck. So build it all in one go.
  2. It's based on what I did for a 6m*6m slab. The hardest part was levelling the concrete. The delivery driver took one look at me and the wife and recommend adding a bit more water to make it easier for us before unloading the first bit into my rented dumper. It was physically hard work raking it into corners and then rubbing a beam back and forth across the top of the shuttering while trying to scrape it flat.
  3. https://www.hunker.com/12001768/how-to-remove-glue-from-brick But I think I would try putting some glue on spare brick first to see if it works or makes a worse mess.
  4. What does Building Control say? I've heard some press for a cavity but slips seem to work fine in other countries.
  5. Think only one way to find out.
  6. Google found a video of someone spraying Zinsser 123 on railings but only limited info in the description, none in the video. Elsewhere they say clean the sprayer with meths but some reports say it's difficult to clean up?
  7. Hardibacker board is seriously strong and heavy, ideal for the heavy stone tiles we used in our bathroom. It's available in two thicknesses 6 and 12mm. The 12mm over studwork is rock solid. Not sure where/if I would use the 6mm. You should fix heavy things like cupboards to studs but lighter things could be fixed into 12mm Hardibacker using screws. The problem with Hardibacker board is cutting it. You can score and snap it but that's not always possible (eg curves or access panel holes in middle of sheets). Even TCT blades in a jigsaw struggle to cut it. It would reasonable to only use it behind a shower or bath and regular waterproof plasterboard elsewhere. I've also used Wedi board which is a foam board covered with a thin fibreglass and cement skim. This is very nice to work with if making a tiled washstand or similar. Can be easily cut with hand saw. Glued with some builders Adhesives. Being foam based it's difficult to fix to. Screws would just pull out.
  8. Zinsser 123 Primer Sealer then Zinsser Perma-White Interior Mould Resistant Paint. No idea if you can spray it. If not use it anyway on a roller. We had bunch of issues with other paint on the ceiling above our shower. Then someone here recommend Zinsser and it's been fine since. The ceiling actually drips with water sometimes.
  9. PS Those steps in B-B and C-C are to stop water being blown in. PPS If you arrange for the top of the slab to be 100mm above ground level you may need small ramp at main entrance.
  10. How practical are you? It only took me an hour to learn how to abuse a mini digger. I'm thinking something like.... 1) Prepare an area about 0.5 to 1m bigger all around. 2) Excavate out say 250mm 3) Use Wacker plate to compact the ground. 4) Spread out the rough hardcore you have. Perhaps omitting any massive lumps or breaking them first. 5) Compact it. 6) Add clean hardcore. 7) Compact it again. 😎 Spread 25mm sand blind to prevent punctures to membrane in 11). Compact again. 9) Construct shuttering from 175mm wide boards on edge. Drawings say 150mm minimum thickness of concrete even below steps in sections B-B and C-C. I would use enough hardcore in step 6 to arrange for the top edge of the shuttering/concrete to be say 100mm above surrounding ground level. Hammer in rebar pegs to stop the wet concrete bending/pushing out the shuttering. 10) Double check dimensions because section A-A suggests walls must sit in right place so the drip bead hangs over the edge of the finished concrete all around. 11) Lay membrane to stop water in concrete draining out before it sets. I'm not 100% sure how best to form the notches/steps shown in sections B-B and C-C. Perhaps prepare blocks of wood to be pressed/vibrated into the wet concrete and fixed to the shuttering while it sets? Plan ahead for how this will be done! Thin boards may warp when wetted by the concrete? Sheets of WBP or wrap timber in plastic might work? 12) Calculate volume of concrete required and add a bit just in case. Order concrete with reinforcing fibres. 13) If readymix lorry won't be able to reverse right up to the shuttering consider hiring a dumper for transporting the concrete across site. 14) bribe at least four friends to be there to help spread out and level the concrete using spades, rakes and long boards across the top of the shuttering. Important it's level in step 9. 15) Crack open beer. If ground really wet dig French drains around outside?
  11. PS I suspect if you welcome the engineers on site with tea and biscuits when they come to lay the cable they might even drop in a length of conduit across their trench at the right depth for you to use later.
  12. They are concerned that you might damage their cable. If they really won't budge ask if you can add.. "..without their permission, which will not be unreasonably withheld". The alternative is to make sure you are there when they bury the cable so you know _exactly_ how deep it is and just get on with it. I very carefully dug a pad foundation for the oak post of an outbuilding right over an 11kv line.
  13. +1 With UFH you have loops of pipe going from manifold(s) to each room. By fitting valves to the manifold ports you can control the temperature of each room using a thermostat in each room. If the thermostats are programmable you can also have different temperatures at different times or have some rooms off (eg guest room). The key to maintaining flexibility is to specify one floor loop per room, no loops shared between rooms. Later you can decide if you want a thermostat stat in each room or one in the hall controlling multiple rooms. Personally I like the fact that we can control the temperature of each room individually. It allows us to warm up the bathroom floor without heating the bedrooms for example. Your open plan ground floor may need more than one loop. That's no problem, you just need enough ports on the manifold. One thermostat can control more than one loop.
  14. PS There are quite a few flat panel LED lights available now. I've not used them yet but would seriously consider them in a kitchen if building again.
  15. We fitted GU10 LED downlights. Personally I prefer bulbs with a wide angle (eg 90-160 degrees) as you get more even lighting and fewer hard shadows but for some reason narrow angle bulbs (30-50 degrees) seem to be more common. As for brightness... There are two types of halogen bulbs that people compare LEDs with... 230V GU10 and 12V MR16. In general MR16 halogen are brighter than GU10 halogen so GU10 halogen are usually spaced closer together than MR16. When installing GU10 LED in a kitchen I recommend you pick LED bulbs with a light output of around 400 Lumens and install them at the spacing normally used for GU10 halogen or perhaps slightly closer together. If you do that they will be at least as bright as GU10 halogen and possibly brighter. I think most places recommend rows 90-100cm apart but with the outer rows closer to the walls, say 75cm away. You can also choose between warm and cool/cold white LED. Personally I prefer warm white.