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Stones last won the day on December 8 2019

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  1. We opted for the lower power version ourselves when we ordered and seems to work fine. Interestingly, if we had opted for the next unit up, capable of dealing with a higher population load, the only difference was pump size (the physical tank itself was the same). I can only surmise that the opposite would therefore work as well - for a lower population load you would have a perfectly functioning system with a lower powered pump.
  2. We had custom cills folded and painted as we needed to bridge 140mm of EWI. Managed to get them (folded and painted to match our windows) for around half the price of the Rationale ones. We simply offered the cill up into the groove on the underside of the window frame, then closely fitted the EWI underneath to support the cill, foaming what gap remained. Rock solid.
  3. I think this is a very interesting idea, and given your proximity to the supplier (and the potential to negotiate a deal as they want to promote the product for housebuilding), worth serious consideration. Personally, I wouldn't be too worried by the thermal bridge issue of using strip foundations. Our house, (155sqm footprint) is built from ICF (280mm block, 150mm concrete core), the blocks sitting directly on the strip foundation without thermal break. The slab is cast onto insulation but is (in contrast to the detail above) thermally broken from the ICF wall, i.e. it 'floats'. Cost wise we heat to 21C 24/7 and we spend £200 a year on heating, which given our rather exposed location, is IMHO, a pretty good result. Something to think about if you go down this route: the cost of fixings and labour to fit insulation and timber strapping. ICF blocks generally have the benefit of plastic ties holding the two sides of insulation together to form the block, but they also perform another critical function - standardised fixing points into which fixings can be secured without having to drill hundreds if not thousands of holes into the concrete itself. You are going to have to mechanically fit a good depth of EWI, I assume some IWI, and then strap the walls inside to create a service void before you fit plasterboard. That's a lot fixings and a lot of drilling, time and money. Critical I think that you factor this in. If you have a look at my blog there is some info and pictures on some of the fixings used in our build.
  4. +1 I used Skybad for our sanitary ware and found them very helpful.
  5. Any recommendations for a dowel jig - primarily T and L butt joints, 45mm timber?
  6. Granted, but the stuff is used in batteries. As I said Lithium and Cobalt production (from what I've read) doesn't appear that 'green'. As we switch to EV's, demand for batteries (and all their constituent parts) will only increase. I do wonder what the environmental impact of satisfying that demand will be. Yes we reduce emissions at point of use, but at what cost?
  7. Interesting to see how this particular debate has unfolded. Are electric vehicles that green? From the perspective of zero emissions at point of use, yes. Assume that the power for those cars is derived from 100% renewable or emission free sources, yes. Assume that all of the vehicle and its constituent parts can be recycled and reused, yes. But there's a problem with the key component in an EV, i.e. the batteries and what they are made of: Lithium production. From everything I've read, it's a hugely damaging (to the environment) process, but because it's out of sight, no-one really cares. In 20 years, I suspect we'll be told, just as we have with Diesel, that we are killing the planet and things have to change. And then there's Cobalt. Kids in the DRC digging up with their bare hands, and little to no environmental protection? Takes the shine of EV's IMHO. Reference was made earlier to patents of key battery technology being sat on. If we truly are at a tipping point in terms of the future of the planet, maybe governments need to seriously look at this, and remove patent protection if the holders fail to licence out or develop the tech themselves. We are prepared to compulsory purchase land to build a road or railway against the wishes of the owner, so why not patents on tech that could improve (or save) our world?
  8. @jack how have you arrived at the conclusion that you won't use the balconies? I assume you haven't used them to date because they've not been finished, and therefore reasonable enough to say you'd never use them, but I think you need to carefully consider the potential use once complete, and the reasons you originally planned them. We're in much the same position re our study room. From the day we moved in it's been used as a dumping ground. It really annoys me and I wish we hadn't bothered and used the money to build an oak desk area elsewhere, but we're finally at the point of doing something meaningful with the space and actually using it, something I really hope will cause me to change my view and embrace the space (granted the cost is hundreds rather than thousands).
  9. Can you not just put a balustrade / Juliet balcony barrier immediately outside the door from your bedroom, to effectively block routine access to the flat roof area?
  10. @Onoff I think you linked to this earlier: a combo of citric and phosphoric acids. Did you experiment with it at all?
  11. I've been reading this with interest as I've a few tools that need some attention. Phosphoric Acid would seem to be the way to go. A couple of questions for @Jeremy Harris - what is the best method: paint on or fully immerse (or is this really dependant on the level of rust removal required)? What concentration would you suggest, as there seem to be various offerings out there? Once finished, I note your earlier comments that you should avoid rinsing off, just remove excess and allow to dry naturally to preserve protective coating that remains. I also note what you say about degreasing - and particular recommendations in respect of the best way to achieve? I've also seen white vinegar mentioned as a possible rust remover. Has anyone tried this?
  12. Any suggestions what I could do with the vessel body if I'm not going to refurb it for its original purpose? It's a 24 litre.
  13. That's what mine is like, a flange bolted to the body compressing the bladder in position. Fair point.
  14. I recently found that our potable DHW expansion vessel was full of water. I swapped it out with a direct replacement and all is now well with our system. On undertaking an autopsy of the defective expansion vessel, I found that the bladder had failed / split. Clearly it had been split for some time as the water that came out of the vessel was rust coloured. Whilst I can easily source a replacement bladder, fit and recharge the vessel to have as an off the shelf spare, I'm wondering whether this is worthwhile or advisable given that there has been some corrosion within the vessel (to produce the rust coloured water)? The vessel is in otherwise great condition. Thoughts?
  15. I've seen (American) videos of retrofit spray foam insulation being injected into a Timber Frame to fill up potential voids, the idea being the foam expands between plasterboard and whatever insulation is in there (glass/mineral wool) to form a continuous air tight layer immediately behind the plasterboard. Working on the principle that when mixing insulation types, specifically glass/mineral/earth wool type and PIR type board insulation, you would normally install the less vapour permeable first then work outward. I can see how the above retrofit would fit that principle, but do wonder if it's a good idea to compress wool insulation too much. Assume you would also have to take account of whether whatever is behind the glass wool is vapour open or not i.e. normal TF make up with breather membrane okay, but if you would end up creating a sandwich of PIR board, wool then retrofit spray foam, that wouldn't be good (although retrofit EWI seems to work effectively on that basis)? Purely academic, just interested in collective thoughts on the subject.