Stones

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Stones last won the day on February 6

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  1. Welcome. I'm curious, When you say permitted development, can you say what section of the relevant PD rules you are working under?
  2. More details in this blog entry https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/blogs/entry/329-part-24-finishing-all-those-little-things/
  3. We weighed the floor down after injecting the adhesive, using a bucket of water, the idea being that this levelled things out and ensured you were not overfilling (excess will come out the filling hole when weighted). Couple of different approaches to drilling the floor, you can either drill a bigger hole then plug it, or a smaller hole and fill the furniture repair wax. We tried both and I preferred the latter.
  4. @Russdl Noisier than units I've had from other manufacturers (albeit that could be the radial type ducting being the problem), collection of condensation in core (which I've not had in previous units, but again, may be due to our marine climate) but most importantly, feel the quality of the outer body (plastic) and the screws / fixing points that fix the front and back panels to the main body are flimsy and break easily (I think @Declan52 has experienced breakage of a fixing point as well). Plus point is the variable auto boost adjusted by humidity sensor.
  5. We have outward openers that are hinged on one side - they have a ventilation setting where the window is open half an inch but can be locked in place, and some outward opening reversible windows. No leaks or problems with them, and they get a battering in winter.
  6. Depends where you live!
  7. How about a mini wireless spy camera positioned inside the cover to monitor the indicator led? Something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/NIYPS-Portable-Wireless-Surveillance-Detection/dp/B07PPM2RCC?ref_=Oct_CABSellerC_1330831031_0&pf_rd_p=82a37368-9c09-51e9-9c4f-41f561902eec&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-6&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_i=1330831031&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_r=TCWN616J0TSHASRKH3H6&pf_rd_r=TCWN616J0TSHASRKH3H6&pf_rd_p=82a37368-9c09-51e9-9c4f-41f561902eec
  8. @steve77r - if the system is that low cost and easy to use, consider why it has not been adopted more widely. If there were a cheap, robust, good looking finish that was half the price of everything else on the market, everybody would be using it (or prices for alternatives would be dropped to match). Not to say you can't save money with clever thinking or careful sourcing of materials, but that all takes time.
  9. Sound advice. We have built 6 houses over the last 25 years and it is a LOT of work. Heed all the advice an go in with your eyes open.
  10. Likewise the stone, no reason cannot be tied to the frame as the block wall would be (subject to you checking with the TF supplier/your SE)
  11. I started on the basis of using the same assumptions in terms of both hot water storage and heat distribution method - so UVC for hot water storage, and UFH for heat delivery. That way I was comparing the combined capital and running costs of connecting to predetermined systems. Thereafter it was a case of ascertaining the (installed) capital costs of various systems - I compared direct electric (willis heaters x 2, timeclock, master thermostat / controler, circulation pump, immersion in UVC), oil boiler and oil tank, ASHP. I assumed set figures for efficiency - 100% direct electric, 85% Oil, 350% ASHP (heating)/ 250% (DHW). Finally I worked out running costs (fuel costs) over 10, 15 and 20 years over a range total consumption figures staring at 1500kWh for DHW and 1500kWh for heating, up to 5000kWh for each in 500kWh increments. That gave a range of basic figures for each option and different usage requirements. I also added in expected servicing costs.
  12. I did a cost comparison as suggested by @JSHarris prior to deciding which way to go for our house. Taken over a 10 year period, ASHP came out on top for us against every other form of heating / fuel source (based on 5000 kWh each for heating and DHW). Direct electric becomes viable if you have very low heating demand / DHW requirement - below 2500 kWh each. Oil couldn't compete at any level based IIRC on 40p per litre.
  13. The different fixings used were due to the difference in the depth of insulation - 100mm vs 140mm, and the plastic type plug fixing being more cost effective. I suspect what may also have played a part was the fact that the 100mm insulation was marked such that it could easily be fixed to the plastic webs (markings on EWI lined up with markings on ICF blocks, whereas the 140mm insulation came in large sheets without markings. I suppose you could fix the EWI beofre pouring, but I'm not sure it would really do much in the way of adding much in the way of bracing / stability, and I certainly wouldn't advocate doing it differently. Ultimately, there will be movement / ripple when the concrete is poured and the braces do two jobs. Brace during the pour, then allow adjustment and support after the pout to ensure the wall is true. The latter is as important as the former.
  14. As much if not more time was spent bracing our walls and the corners than actually building the blocks to wallplate. My contractor was very clear that attention here was critical to ensuring a successful pour. Have a look at my blog for more info and pictures. I do indeed!
  15. Perfectly doable, and something I seriously considered - all your doing in effect is adding another loop to the circuit. I decided it wasn't worth the bother given the size of duct cooler that would be needed to make any meaningful difference to the temp of the incoming air.