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Nickfromwales

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Nickfromwales last won the day on March 30

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  • About Me
    http://forum.buildhub.org.uk/ipb/index.php?/topic/38-hello-from-the-resident-welsh-plumber/


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    South Wales.

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  1. Only if you want zero warranty. They'll just say "non-standard installation" when you attempt to claim. They did that to 2 clients who claimed for failed units, ironically they did the design on one lol. As far as zero annual maintenance, these have expansion vessels, so those need to be regularly checked and maintained on a Sunamp / Thermino / Aquafficient, or again....no warranty. You need to drain down, test the pre-charge pressure, and then fill back up again. At the current prices for these things, installed, you (and the salty box), would need to outlive your great grandchildren.
  2. Yup. Need a packed lunch to go from the basement to the top floor lol.
  3. If you're really after belt & braces, fix some vertical sections of 4x2 to the masonry wall, and strap between the stud wall and those with 2 x 4x2's. Locate them height-wise at the top of the frame to remove any 'wiggle', but tbh you're setup is similar to how I install for clients (and nobody has 'bottomed out' yet lol).
  4. Does anyone have any links to the statistics on domestic battery fires? AFAIK there's more chance of the tumble drier going up in flames than a 'solar' battery Put it outdoors in a second 'kiosk', adjacent to the one doing the mains? Metal-clad if possible. Mine will go in the shed / outbuilding, as is my plan for my current clients project; (20kW battery per phase / 3ph + ~16kWp of solar). I've not just looked at risk mitigation for this myself / my client(s) as the kit is sizeable too, so I'd prefer not to lose any of the GIA of the actual dwelling either so will mount / locate remotely. Cables will be oversized from outbuilding > boundary kiosk > dwelling accordingly to minimise voltage drop to the nth degree, as a 35mm2 cable isn't lifechanging sums more than a 25mm2 plus leaves room for 'more' if downstream bulking of battery system is deemed advantageous (~1900m2 residence with indoor swimming pool, sauna / steam-room et-al). I'm putting a guesstimated size system in and will recommend running the home for 12 months to gather statistics, so will always consider a structured battery / solar setup that can grow. I dislike the notion of sizing to take advantage of a particular electricity providers 'offering of the day', seems too risky for me to spend a clients money on (I have responsibilities as the Main Contractor and consultant, so my 'ideas' need to be robust before I convert them into an actual recommendation). I prefer knowns, so work on solar capture and look to store and utilise this pragmatically. IF a favourable provider / tariff then comes along downstream we can add that to the mix to maximise RoI, vs rely on it. @Russell griffiths, defo have the batteries as you and Mrs G work from home, just put them outdoors if you're that worried. Simples.
  5. OK. I think you should have more loops / zones. If I was designing this as' your M&E guy', I'd have a loop per space. The bathroom should be at 100mm o/c and be as fully populated as is practicable. Space A-01 should be fed by taking the loops under the wall. Space A-02 is fine. A-07 should also be at 100mm o/c as it is a rising space to FF. Consider the effects of the days solar gain, and how it will affect each space. IMHO, the current design does not. You have some small, confined spaces, which will 'out-perform' the other, larger open areas.
  6. Go for a horizontal UVC and put everything else above it?
  7. In a "passive house" the flow temps are inconsequential. I now pipe under every single shower tray for my clients builds, staying around 400mm away from the waste / drain. Why? Not sure, but I am reasonably sure confident that it's entirely moot tbh.
  8. You can't do any harm, so just work out what the lowest setting is that will maintain the room temps. Biggest question you should be asking right now, is what temp to set the mixing valve to Start off at 40oC and go up each day in 2oC increments until you are happy. Don't make adjustments in the same 24hr period, patience will pay dividends here
  9. Members can petition @Andrew Jones directly via PM, please feel free to do so.
  10. You won’t have excess solar when it’s wintertime though. Plus, trying to operate a heat pump on sporadic pockets of sunshine is just barking mad.
  11. Facts, not stories Prices for them is now utterly insane. These got rebranded Thermino to try and shake the troubled relationship, and also Aquafficient. Same box, rebranded. Saw another of these getting wheeled out of someone’s home a few weeks back, never to return, and an UVC going in; to relieve the owner from their long-suffering negative experience. Sunamp tried hard to wriggle out of replacing some of these failed units. When the clients sought my technical support, Sunamp then backed down and replaced (supply and fit) for free. Facts, not stories.
  12. Will be a nonsense figure if you then go and introduce trickle and mechanical ventilation imo. Can you sacrifice a little bit of plaster and board for a lifetime of heat recovery, fresh air, zero drafts, lower heating bills, requiring a smaller heating system……list goes on. Getting an AT test done FIRST will be paramount, as if you’re off with this, then MVHR will be useless and pointless, plus detrimental. Previously linked are some very cost effective suggestions for MVHR equipment. Work a budget around those.
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