Nickfromwales

@AliG had some nice stuff going that route iirc.

First point is moot as single pole switching in a central heating system is always either upsteam or downstream of suitable means of double pole ( dedicated ) isolation. Your precious contactor will, in normal service, be fed by a single pole MCB and not even that will be seen as routine isolation as a well designed system will not see you going into the fuse board to isolate for servicing. MCB are fault devices NOT isolators. Most MIs will call for such equipment to have “a means of LOCAL double pole isolation with a contact separation of at least 3mm” so the solid state relay would first be fed from either a 13a DP fused spur or a 20a DP switch which would be identified as the equipments means of local isolation. Are you saying a SS relay wouldn’t do the job? Without the clunk? A brief tutorial and please see the section on Solid State Relay Output Circuit where the primary example scenario is based on switching heating loads. Game, set and match.....”New balls please” 😘

You like the arc’ing and clonking of the contactors ? Electormechanical vs solid state ? 🤔

For reliability I’d go for a solid state relay to switch the Willis heaters. One relay per Willis.

Infinitely more problematic and complex as you’d need floor probes to stop the slab getting too hot as well as a blended manifold and room stat. The problem would be the higher w/m2 that would be required, and that can only be overcome by chucking more heat into the floor. Theres only so hot you can make the floor in a domestic dwelling so your limited. Also you’d need to put much more pipe into the floor to facilitate the higher energy input, eg more loops and bigger manifolds. Plus you’d need VERY accurate room thermostats like @JSHarris has to stop any over / under shoot. I’ve walked away from a LOT of retro fit Ufh jobs where the punter remained unconvinced that Ufh was a very bad idea a) off fossil fuel and b) in a high energy consuming dwelling. Rads are quick and cheap...... and effective too.

A bog that projects out halfway into the room. Trust me, I’ve fitted some weird shit in my time.

Just not going to happen. The soil run in the attic is brand new and run way above the standard normally done by ‘plumbers’. Chill Winston.

It’s going in facking BOLD next time I’ve got to say it. 👎👎

It’s not us, it’s the ceramic suppliers worldwide and different types of bogs. Close coupled / semi back to wall / fully back to wall / super deep etc etc and then all the designer labels. 7” centres from floor to centre of outlet horizontally is a standard throughout though.

No such thing as standard I’m afraid. What I do is have the soil pipe right back against the plaster / allowing for a tile etc and buy ( fit ) whichever WC you want at the time. If a direct bent pan connector won’t reach, simply go to a good quality flexi pan connector.

Tossa 😆

Where in this lovely warm country are you ?

Rear tile went on first. Then chrome trims ( cut slowly in the chopsaw between two pieces of sacrificial PAR timber to minimise F.O.D. ). Then the left and right tiles. Leave to set. Then the base tile. Leave to set. Then the head. All tiles colour matched siliconed into place so when I pushed them home the excess silicone squeezed out of the trims / mitres / and gaps between tiles and trims. It gets everywhere but the baby wipes clean up in minutes.

You LOVE a few stickers.

Watch the film "Karate Kid" 1 & 2 and be ready to attack. 🤜