Nickfromwales

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Nickfromwales last won the day on November 12

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About Nickfromwales

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  • About Me
    http://forum.buildhub.org.uk/ipb/index.php?/topic/38-hello-from-the-resident-welsh-plumber/

    I am, in relation to my business, currently offering the following services to the public.
    Site survey.
    System design.
    Consultation.
    Products / equipment procurement.
    1st fix installation.
    Commissioning.
    Gas / oil / LPG / SunAmp.
    Solar PV & Solar thermal.
    Heat pumps and geothermal.
    Controls.
    Whole of house wiring.

    Please PM me for further information about these services, or for general information just post a new thread here on Buildhub for free, impartial advice. :)
    Regards, nick.
  • Location
    South Wales.

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  1. Hey-up 'lad. Just realised this is only mocked up atm. Ditch that for two 45's and a straight, short flexi.
  2. Plinth heater Wet and electric are available, but the wet version should work ok even at the lower flow temps. Example only Yes, as they will heat up at different times to each other. Tha can result in an UFH circuit running a lot on its own resulting in short-cycling. Would ideally need a decent ( 100L + ) buffer tank to feed everything from in order to hydraulically separate the two mediums.
  3. Just done one exactly like that. No probs at all with that arrangement 👍
  4. https://www.wundatrade.co.uk/shop/home/quick-shop/wundatherm-quick-shop/controls-quickshop/actuator-auto-balancing/
  5. It would come into it's own if being used in conjunction with high temp space heating + DHW, with SA being used as a heat bank for load-shifting off E7 / 10 / other, but yes, it's a difficultt sale at the price ticket that results in trying to combine the two. I'm much more of an advocate of SA = DHW, and then space heating gets met as and how best practicable. Let's not forget, however, that these types of installations are off-set by RHI payments, which does change things in anything less than a well-performing dwelling / poor EPC rating as that equals higher payments to go towards off-setting the capital expenditure.
  6. Sonos all the way. Idiot proof, and child’s play, with one of the most robust platforms I’ve come across so far. Or, cheaper but coarser, something like a Lithe Bluetooth speaker, multiples of, but I’m not sure if these will network with one another. @Barney12’s, largely Sonos, system will exfoliate you. Tres bien
  7. You can go one better as they are able to insist that a representative from the DNO actually attends site to carry out a witness of such export limitation. The DNO charge sometimes ( incontestable ) but often don’t. @willbish are you putting DC batteries in with the PV at the outset? You may never get permission to put them on the AC side, now or retrospectively, if they’re already so particular over this. Export limitation should suffice here so I don’t see you having a big problem. 3kWp on each roof sounds a good amount and would generate a good spread of Pv through the day, without the midday ‘peak’ that can knock the inverter off when the local voltage rises to 253v.
  8. Sunamp no longer deal with the public directly, so their products are only available now via re-sellers. Sizing the unit size and type are quite specific requirements, so this would need to be surveyed by a SA accredited supplier. Installation price is "how long is a piece of string" as no two jobs are the same I'm afraid.
  9. The 6 will suffice if it's given access to electricity on demand. I would go to a 9 if only if you have a bath. I fitted a 6 in Somerset and it's happily servicing a bathroom, kitchen sink, and utility sink in a household of 3 occupants. Great! No problem with adding an induction hob then 👍
  10. So as for an electrical design, you're already at ~20kW before sockets / lighting / kitchen etc Is this on it's own electricity supply?
  11. My replies relate to the OP No gas. A gas combi is deliciously simple and quick, and I'd still recommend one today if I thought it were the CORRECT decision. Cost / economy / running costs and practicality will be all the things the person PAYING for it will be asking about. Design of retrofit is easy, and often free, just the design will need the property garnished with additional floor insulation / wall insulation / roof or attic insulation, and possibly upgrades to the windows and doors to meet the lower heat output per m2 that UFH can provide. It is not a good choice for retrofit AFAIC, unless it is highly insulated and "energy efficient" in it's current state.
  12. Putting convection heating into a retro fit is in no way whatsoever a bodge my old china mug If the occupants are in a tiny 2 bed terrace, there's a bloody good reason for it! UFH and an ASHP really need to be designed in at the outset. Lipstick on a pig and all that eh?
  13. Fortunately I spent about 13 years fitting new heating systems into exactly these types of properties We had to get very inventive of how to get heat into these and often the only way to get sufficient heat output was to fit two smaller radiators in the same room wherever there was room to do so. UFH in a retro fit is bloody hard to get right, even harder to insulate against the losses from, and are utterly impractical in small rooms with lots of furniture. The capital cost and impact to living pattern vs heating use is also a huge PITA. Horses for courses
  14. They can go behind furniture without issue. They heat by convection rather than radiation, so no problem not 'seeing' them . Fit multiple smaller ones to get the required heat and fill any available 'gaps' to suit the room layout. Number one rule; DON'T put them on outside walls wherever possible.