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Nickfromwales

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Nickfromwales last won the day on March 6

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    http://forum.buildhub.org.uk/ipb/index.php?/topic/38-hello-from-the-resident-welsh-plumber/


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    South Wales.

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  1. Insulate both runs with at least 19mm wall insulation. FYI, you don't really need the more expensive black neoprene stuff as the thermal values are pretty much the same as the cheaper grey stuff. Just try to leave seams unbroken and slide the insulation down the pipe wherever possible as that save a mountain of awkward taping up along the lengths. Tape joints well, gaps are bad.
  2. Cool. Just with 10mm there and back, or even just back, vs 15mm there and back, the delay in getting the cold water (dead leg) gone eg getting the loop to circulate hot water from the tank to the tap is quite significant.
  3. Also, don’t use a router! Stanley and a chisel is fine to break out small chunks, then pop a 10mm hole in. Once fitted over the window brackets you inject foam through the 10mm hole to fill the void you left from rebating. Don’t forget to mask the window frame whilst the foam expands.
  4. Looking good Timber frame is deliciously quick isn’t it. What’s the plan for insulation and AT?
  5. Hi @weslev, see below Firstly is it actually necessary, then... < Up to you, cost vs comfort. At 15m you’re just on the tipping point tbh. I would be installing in hep2o and am fairly sure that the HRC is ok to be done in the same barrier pipe, is this correct? < Yup. Flow and return both in 10mm hep2o or should the flow be larger? does it matter? < I’d do the lot in 10mm if the hot return is on and left running vs pulsed via a PIR etc. If pulsed, then flow in 15mm and return in 15mm too otherwise it takes a while to get ‘there and back’. My design for this set up would be to feed the whb's and sink from the main hot manifold but reduce to 10mm, have the HRC come back via 10mm to a return manifold specifically for these three returns, then from manifold run to an isolation valve, followed by a non return valve, then my secondary pump, a final isolation valve and then into UVC somewhere in the upper portion of it if at all possible. Is this logical. < The HRCs need to come back to individual manifold ports, each with their own isolation valves, same as the hot out manifold; so each pair of hot and hot return can be isolated. This avoids having 3x isolations and a lot of exposed pipework at the basins. To save faffing on any technical controls, run the HRC from a programmable pump. < Doesn’t need to be technical. It’s on or off / timed, or triggered by a motion sensor in that room. Typically I work on houses where we’ve installed a decent chunk of solar PV, so I just set these to run all day (if clients are retired / working from home) or on sensors / timed for all other situations. For the retired / other folks the system reverts to the sensors at night, and runs constant through the day, as losses are largely offset by PV anyways. So if you get up to go for a pee, by the time you’ve done the deed and want to wash your hands, the hot water is sat at the tap waiting for you. Resurrecting old threads is fine, good to blow the dust off them tbh.
  6. Excellent price too. Cheers, not seen that one before tbh as I just run to Grundfos Comfort these days. 👍
  7. Took the words right off of my keyboard lol. Damn right. I'd rather put the other £800 into everything else.
  8. You have a cavity wall / masonry build yes? If so, the foam will be subject to the conditions within the cavity, dripping condensation off a snot or tie etc, so I would use the rigid plastic for longevity. I'd use 200mm plastic through internal leaf, with the foam 180 inside that, and then lose the sleeve as you get to the inside face of the external leaf, drop the hole dia to 180mm and then punch through with the foam to the outside facade.
  9. If it is a generic UVC you are after, then you can also try Trevor at cylinders2go, and mention the forum.
  10. I use the McApline on every install, and all projects are airtight etc. These just go to the soil stack wherever that connection is practically made. The G3 regs state the maximum length of the D2, including reductions for 90° bends etc, so you may have to beef that up to 28mm
  11. And have you started filling / sanding the FST for the Fermacell yet? If you gave that job to inmates, the crime rate in the UK would drop by 50% overnight. Seriously consider a plaster skim over those boards, it’s punishing work with very questionable results.
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