Nickfromwales

Sorry! Yes, very effective but need a higher flow temp. In that pic was 2x 16mm pipes in spreader plates, then 22mm P5, then 6mm ply, then tile adhesive and porcelain tiles. You’ll defo need a dedicated UFH manifold for the upstairs circuits so you can set different flow temps for GF and FF.

Just looked at the HG more intensively, and it’s just a whopper of a ‘wet’ heat exchanger in essence? So not really a store so much, just water is ‘in it’. OP says these things in a nutshell.

Perhaps, but taking heat for DHW production from a HP via any type of instantaneous heat exchanger isn’t great however you cut it (imho). Heat pump to UVC is just way better from many aspects. What temps and COP do you get? And is this an EAHP, or a monoblock > TS with an instantaneous DHW coil in it? You’ve prob said many times but I forget. Good to hear what works when it doesn’t ‘click’ with me.

These ones are sat on top of the joists, others we did from the underside with the plates I linked to (actually we used the single runs and overlapped as the joists were at 400 oc). You need to go slow and steady when lacing the pipes in from underneath to avoid kinking them. And avoid what I did which was sleep on my feet and wrap the pipe around a joist and then notice after I’d tucked it in that void lol.

Are you saying you put a ‘swing check’ valve in?

A heap pump and a thermal store should never meet. For a TS to make DHW you need to be above 75°C, so to ask a HP to do that is just no bueno.

Good point!

Sorry. Missed this. My thoughts exactly which means the world’s gone mad! And your BCO lady is out of a job. Protect a steel that’s already protected, but leave the wood exposed that’s holding the fecking steel up. 🤷‍♂️🤦‍♂️

In that case, not to stir the pot any more than I usually like to do, those timbers should be boarded and skimmed too then? Has that been specified?

You're welcome, lol. I'd just start parking outside his front door, and requote him.

I think this is about spot on tbh...... I'm guessing this was a cash job and no building regs involved? If not, then you need to get your money back, or ask them to do the work to the correct standard.

FWIW your new neighbour is an inconsiderate dickhead. Just thought I'd clear that up.

Some of them are just completely obtuse penis's. >£4k of costs saved on the one where the fu@@wit wanted all the steels boxed in (bearing in mind that this "beaut" decided to drop this request after I'd 1st fixed for electrics, plumbing, MVHR and drainage!).

Methinks not! Garages usually have a sloped floor or a step down of 100mm, for the few that do or did leak, to create that rule. "Has your architect dealt with the sloping floor of the garage, to cope with fuel spills, or another method such as a bund (reduced floor level) to meet compliance at the wall party to the residence?" Haha, I doubt that very much!! I wasn't aware that there did need to be a sloping floor away from the house. I was planning on doing the footings myself. It's not rocket science and I have a good laser level and would simplify matters by hiring a pump truck when they are poured. But do i actually need to have a step in them? Can they not be all one level, and it just means that there are more blocks used to come out of the ground for the garage section? Just click on and highlight text in a post and then you'll see the option to "quote selection" Well, you'd defo need that if there's a doorway, but maybe not if there's just a wall and no shared roof space for fire to breach through to the house within. BCO and your architect should be approached now to address / identify this requirement. Door way to garage or not, assuming not due to levels, but there's nowt as queer as folk! Are you referring to strip foundations and then dwarf walls for back-filling, then the garage structure atop? Tanking would be 'complex' to say the least. Walls would be block on flat then, or otherwise suitably beefed up, to deal with the outward forces from the back-fill. A lot more excavation, muck-away, and back-fill, so wouldn't be my first choice solution. What are you building with? Standard masonry walls with a cavity?

Nothing needs doing to them. Are those timbers decorative, or load bearing to the steel?