Nickfromwales

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Nickfromwales last won the day on November 3

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About Nickfromwales

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    South Wales.

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  1. Probe for thermostat

    The micros make me dizzy. Too small and too bloody quick Looking for another Lunchbox rolling chassis for daughter #2 now.
  2. Probe for thermostat

    Perfect 👌
  3. Geberit

  4. Probe for thermostat

    No issues whatsoever mate . I race Caster 1/10th scale with my boys when indoors, and they've got FTX Colossus's 1/8th for rally cross / bashing. All running lipos with brushless. My summer goal is to get my Losi 2.0 rolling chassis converted to electric and running, proper old school one which I'll be running 22v 😎
  5. Garden wall: DPC ?

    Why conjoin them @recoveringacademic? Can't you build them detached and dispense with the concerns brewing here ? 8" gap between the two would suffice.
  6. Probe for thermostat

    Extending them is no problem at all, been done plenty of times . Make the joint above ground and if possible accesble, if not, I'd recommend soldering and heat shrink sleeving to get a lifetime hassle free joint. Measure the resistance before and after the connection and you'll know it's been done properly.
  7. UFH Design for extension, UVC? TS?

    22mm is the norm. 22mm pipe will need a 60mm conduit all to itself if it's to be pulled in / out. Tbh the Hepworth pipe can sit directly in the insulation, as @jack suggests he may do if ever building again, but I'd advise against that as the clicking / creaking noise of the pipe moving against the EPS may drive you nuts. My mate foamed his pipes into IWI covered walls and the noise of them when the heating is cycling is very apparent .
  8. I Give In

    Screwfix .
  9. Please just get a schedule of works in duplicate and each of you sign them with the agreed amount. It protects both you and the builder and is so simple to refer back to if confusion or disagreement should ever occur. The document simply states for £X your getting XYZ, no more no less. Trust is a beautiful thing, but confusion at the details stage can add a big chunk of time ( £ labour ) so be very aware. As a contractor this method has saved me countless times where Mr Blogs thought he was getting 20 spotlights in the kitchen diner but had only paid for 8 etc. I'd never do it differently. Edit to add : Oh, and of course the very best luck moving forward
  10. Geberit

    Yup, but let's be honest....wall mounted just looks the business. 😎
  11. Geberit

    Yes, but you need to know your finished floor level to the nearest few mm's to put the frames in early on. With the wall mounted free standing WC's you can also define the height of the pan, and when I suggest to customers to have the pan an inch or so higher than normal they agree that it's far easier to hop on / off vs the standard height. Worth remember that your not stuck to that constraint with the wall mounted ones .
  12. Geberit

    Roca frames are around the same price but Geberit all the way for me Fit and forget with known after sales support.
  13. I Give In

    Argos ask for the order number and your surname. .
  14. For belt n braces I've lined the reveals with 25mm cellotex too This job has IWI ( 62.5mm thermal PB ) so I wanted to be double sure there was no significant shift in 'temperature' in the window or door reveals. That just gets PB bonded on then for which I use the foam and bracing to keep it flat whilst it cures.
  15. Just ask the door supplier to give you the metal fixing brackets needed to set the door wherever you like whilst still being able to fix into masonry / other. As above, if Bco is involved you'll have to install a vertical damp course and insulate the cavity. My preferred method is to get some 18" DPC, wedge it against the face brick with small offcuts of polystyrene spaced every 300mm or so to keep it taught and in place, then fill the gap with low expansion ( LE ) foam, applied to obtain a depth of no greater than 150mm. Have the DPC showing in the opening about an inch or so, so that when you fit the cavity closers you can fix over the DPC ensuring no break. The closers are plastic / PVC ( ? ) anyhoo so the damp cannot bridge . If you get insulated cavity closers you'll need to trim the factory fitted insulation to suit your cavity ( they're marked for cutting at the correct increments so a 1 minute job with an old hand saw ) but you'll then need to rake out a little of the foam in the cavity to accommodate the extra depth. For good measure, as I've done on my current job ( garage conversion with new knock through of a cavity wall ) I pumped a hefty bead of LE foam into the cavity and set the cavity closer into that. Brace with a piece of batten or 4x2" for 30mins whilst the foam cures to stop the closers from bellying out with the foam as its expands and cures. When ordering the door, make sure you allow for 25mm of cellotex to go at the head, bonded to the internal section of the catnic, to eliminate the cold bridge. Catnics are factory insulated but it's still not great.