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Nickfromwales

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Nickfromwales last won the day on May 21

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  • About Me
    http://forum.buildhub.org.uk/ipb/index.php?/topic/38-hello-from-the-resident-welsh-plumber/


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    South Wales.

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  1. The perimeters are secured by scrim and plaster. Moot point afaic. These don’t (can’t) move.
  2. There’s not enough sweep, and there would be a lot of ‘matter’ going to the right as well as flowing away to the left. If a T is laid horizontally with a good fall then you can get away with it (just), but I avoid using them tbh. Not such a worry if theres a flushing WC upstream, but here there’s just a 40mm waste which isn't sufficient to ‘move things along’ (if there are any stragglers ).
  3. Yup. Bin those off, as a box of 10mm nail clips is change of a tenner
  4. Sounds like you should have done the job first as last lol! Get a friend or two around and crack on 🙃. I once asked the plaster-boarders apprentice, why are you using the wrong length screws (using 55mm when I had requested they used 32mm MAX to avoid all my LED multicore flex’s in the swimming pool walks)….. He replied that “these were already on site”. After plaster and paint we fired up the LED’s and POOF! Found a screw right through 2 of my 5-core cables for the RGBW stuff. Cheers. Only took about 3 days worth of looking / fault-finding at a cost of ~£2k to the client. Then began the patching back in and fully repainting the walls etc. Why are people generally just such lazy dicks???
  5. When they respond, post back here.
  6. They are brittle and have far less tolerance to snapping, vs regular wood screws. If he put plenty in then I think you'd be Ok, but if few and far between, then it could be a problem. Are these still exposed? If so, just pump a woodscrew in next to each one.
  7. You'll prob need next to feck all heat up there anyways, so go with the slimmer option.
  8. You may do well to read the hundreds of threads on here that answer this question, and all those to follow Have a quick search, you'll soon be up to your eyes in info for this subject.
  9. Can a 10 or 12mm pipe be part of that 17mm thickness?
  10. Needs no more thought or complication. Lay membrane, nail-clip the pipe down, pour screed, go to pub. It's THAT complicated
  11. Yes, but also preclude the use of liquid screed, as it just runs under it and floats it, save the few screws crying themselves to death trying to prevent this happening. Dog. Shit.
  12. Yup. Liquid Cemfloor screed straight onto that, 50-55mm thick, 60mm in 'places', job done.
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