Nickfromwales

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Nickfromwales last won the day on November 12 2019

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About Nickfromwales

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  • About Me
    http://forum.buildhub.org.uk/ipb/index.php?/topic/38-hello-from-the-resident-welsh-plumber/


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    South Wales.

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  1. https://www.screwfix.com/p/ph2-drywall-screwdriver-bits-ph2-2-pack/6623v
  2. Q1, yes, just a simple 32mm compression fitting. Do NOT lube up the compression side that goes onto the chrome tail. That needs to be dry fit to get the rubber to ‘grab’ the chrome surface. Q2, dunno. 😌 Suck it and see, but the trap should just screw straight on.
  3. They’re definitely notable on the higher setting, so deffo go for the 2-speed. These also come with a remote control ( hard wired usually ) to save your back . Remember to factor in maintenance as the heat exchanger needs periodic vacuum / brush cleaning ( or possibly blowing through in situ with compressed air ) to stay efficient. As these suck air in down st floor level they are prone to dust / hair contamination which will eventually render them ineffective.
  4. Just buy a regular socket and one with just 2 or 4 locations tabs ( bump stops ) and ping them off with a small cold chisel. Instant slip coupler and no trip to the merchant if you already have one to hand 👌
  5. I always go to 28mm if there’s anywhere near that many bends. In honesty I can only recall a couple, where they were 22mm for a couple of metres and straight out, where I didn’t upsize.
  6. On an UVC always, but, you can get away without one on primary circuits as it’s just the volume of expansion to get rid of. BCO’s never chase on that but are all over D1 & D2 on potable as it’s drinking quality water being ‘lost’. There are several waterless traps ( sealed ) which are transparent, so you can use one of those if a visible discharge is required internally. Where it runs to an outside wall you can rely on that as means of visible discharge.
  7. You don’t really need the tundish as it’s not potable. Change it to a waterless trap if you’re getting draughts coming up
  8. I’ve never seen a shower trap that isn’t top access 🤔. The grille on the top usually needs a tool, like a crotchet hook, to remove that part but they have bucket sieves inside in most cases where that catches the worst of the hair / other. FWIW, some don’t appear to be serviceable, but are.
  9. Firstly, why would you consider a deep tray? They’re not exactly ‘beautiful’..... The litres per minute discharge rate is what usually dictates the size of the waste. A slimline tray is deemed more likely to need efficient means of discharge, hence the larger diameter, but the deeper trays can use a bit more gravity to get rid of water. Suds are the nightmare so cause most issues, but make sure the traps regularly cleared out and you should be fine. To be honest, if the waste pipe work is in 50mm instead of 40mm ( 2” instead of 1.5” ) then that will pay huge dividends. 50mm gives a decent air break ( air can travel back up the pipe over the discharged water travelling down it giving relief from any vacuum happening ) and is something I practice without exception. Taking the chrome cap off the shower waste will also show how badly the suds stop natural discharge.
  10. Yes, it’s time / volume / temp that dictates the permissible discharge regs. Also, iirc, all modern plastics can tolerate high temp for quite long durations. That’s how communal UVC’s ( dozens of them ) can be connected to a foul water riser without issue. Some more pics of a sealed / expansion setup. PRV yet to be connected. That’s the port at the rear of the angled brass union with the small red cap
  11. B is the 3/4” female union that the expansion vessel screws into..... A is the pipe that you want to tee into.
  12. @Russell griffiths Will this be facing true south, or can you get an E/W or E/S/W array? I assume it’ll be mono pitch to match the house though? We’ve not long done one which was 135m away from the garage, where the AC batteries and CU2 reside, and that’s spewing electricity out. No issues with remote install whatsoever. As said, just hook into the garage CU, but, knowing you, I’d put a 25mm2 SWA between the house CU and the garage to allow you to run some big stuff in there too. Don’t forget the laundry room will need a decent supply also, so allow for a 16mm2 to that too. Price hike in buying bigger cables now vs future costs of up-sizing later are pennies . Also consider people coming with EV’s so the outside feeds will then be future proofed against that too.
  13. If the stat says it’s up to temp then it won’t come on. Try turning it to max ( 30oC ? ) and report back after 24 hrs.
  14. That’s how I used to populate CU’s on my bread & butter work, eg where an all RCBO board wasn’t cost-effective enough for a client but they still wanted segregation. For me, it’s now ‘all RCBO’ or nowt. Just way too many plus points to consider going back to split / dual arrangement.
  15. Quinetic do dimmers too. If you use all IP67 switches ( for no official reason ) you get the single push ( reactive ) type switch and they’ll all match. Also, these all look the same when used in 2G / 2-way arrangements. Eg you don’t end up with one switch ‘on’ one switch ‘off’ alongside each other. Acceptable for normal human beings of course, but OCD freaks like that kind of thing