JohnBishop

have any of you come across a PoE smoke sensor and/or other PoE sensors as well?

Hi again, you said about bottom and top battens but then what about the airflow?

The insulation will go to my next building I build next year. I reckon it will be some Knauf. Regarding the breathable membrane, should I put it from the bottom over the DPM or start where DPM ends?

Ok. Thank you. Did you stain your battens with anything? I have seen a man staining them with some green stuff and on the cuts he stained with some black stuff. Will add some more pictures soon.

Gents, considering that this shed is built from pallets that have gaps not plywood sheets do I need battens after I attach the breathable membrane?

I come across this man who done his pergola: Very meticulous job however I think it's a bit overkill to my liking, feel too heavy over the head I think too much timer for this size of a pergola. I reckon rated for 100mph gusts. I think it creates too much shade though. I would go for 6 posts tops but the concrete bases make sense. He used the twinwall polycarbonate sheeting.

I am going to put some concrete bases for this and heavier timber I reckon 150x150mm

Hi Gents, I am planning to build a 4-leg patio this winter/spring. The patio will be covering my backdoors so the rainwater does not get into the kitchen. I reckon 3m x 4m The roof is going to be simple slope. The patio will not be connected with the building barely touching it. I have external insulation and I don't want thermal bridging. I think about some transparent material to put on the top as I don't want shade. What material would you recommend?

I think about roof gutter so I can collect rainwater. Are there any mounting brackets that you can screw into the roof joists rather than wall? My roof overhangs for well over 30cm.

According to IKO the overlap should be between 50-75mm but on Youtube Carpenter's Daughter felted a low slope roof and the overlap was more than a foot. They didn't use the adhesive but nails and the sealant/adhesive from a tube. To me using the adhesive from a can looks like a mess. I would rather go the nails + sealant/adhesive route. I went for this more expensive IKO Super Green Shed Felt. What do you think?

What is the recommended overlap of the felt on a roof with that low angle? Is it like a 1.5 foot or something? I am going to use OB1 sealant to seal the layers of felt https://www.screwfix.com/p/ob1-multi-surface-sealant-adhesive-clear-290ml/434jf

Hi Gents, Thanks for coming back to me. I have bought some truss clips but then I saw a video where a pro said to use hangers because apparently with winds 50+mph it can rip the roof open. On the other hand I want to leave that ridiculously long overhang in front of the shed. The Shed is 2.4m deep, timber is 3.6m long, 30cm overhang at the back so 90cm overhang in front. I admit that the location can be windy at times, it is exposed, the wind usually hits from west to east (there is a 5m tall hedge on the eastern side) so the slope raises from west to east. Or I could use a combination of both just to be safe or use jiffy hangers on every other joist. https://www.screwfix.com/p/sabrefix-jiffy-hangers-50mm-x-275mm-10-pack/60964#product_additional_details_container

Hi Gents, Do I need birdsmouth cuts at this low angle? 

I have the drill however drilling these EUR pallets is not going to happen. There is simply too many nails and what it looks like at an angles as well. I would have to drill more than once to get the drill through what weakens the pallet in the process. Is there anything else I can use to tie them together except steel nail plates?