I used silicone gel and tape. But only just installed them so time will tell. Mine are behind the timber cladding so won’t get wet as such. I expect they will still fail due to moisture however. My original plan was to bring the Reolink cable into the house through a duct to avoid this but the cables aren’t long enough.
If you are an Octopus customer they will loan you one for free. However they are in short supply and high demand. I applied last year and missed the cut but they’ve said I’m a priority this year. Too late now as the house is built.
What’s great was finding that local builder guy to help you. He came across brilliantly well.
Like you the thing I found hard in our build was not knowing what I didn’t know so you easily get caught out with stuff. Plus all of the energy sapping time wasting balls ups done by others that you are left to resolve. The worst one of those for us was the ducting for the electrical cable from the kiosk to the house. Groundsworker didn’t use a coupler to join the two bits of duct together and just used tape. This split apart when the trench was backfilled. When I came to feed the SWA cable through it got stuck. Unfortunately this was all behind our retaining wall so under several hundred kg of gravel that I had to dig out by hand trying to find what the problem was. Complete waste of two days to resolve something that should have been a few hours work max.
Many ASHP/UFH have a floor drying mode. It ramps up to max temperature over a number of days and then brings the temperature back down again. We then switched it off for 48 hours before we started tiling then left it off for a few weeks after tiling. We also used Ditra mat and expansion joints at every door and across the biggest run of tiles in the open plan area. Screed was Cemfloor. Best practice? Overkill?
How thin is the LVT you’re using? The click LVT stuff is generally thicker than say the Amtico stick down stuff. Some folk also lay it on a foam underlay. The thicker it is the more forgiving it is I expect but you still want it scrupulously clean.
You need to make sure it’s completely flat and smooth. The builder badly installed LVT at our previous place and you could see all the floor imperfections under the LVT. They had to lift it and fix the floor and relay.
It’s also better to fit LVT that isn’t shiny and has some kind of texture especially if you have a large floor length window opposite it. The first type that went down was a shiny smooth wood effect type and showed every tiny surface scratch. The second type was more matt textured wood effect. The difference was night and day. Both were Amtico.
I also wouldn’t assume it’s level without checking. We had one room where it wasn’t in that it was slightly higher than the hallway. This was due to the hardboard crack inducers across the doorway. No issue for us as we were tiling over a decoupling mat.
Something like this?
https://help.magicplan.app/import-and-digitalize-an-existing-floor-plan
For electrical layout, lights, circuits, switches, sockets etc I just used Powerpoint.
It’s pretty much like ours (which is a Heb Home) and we also have a 45° degree pitch although I decided not to fit the PV on the roof.
How deep is the porch section? We made ours 4m deep as when we visited some other HH their standard depth seemed too small.
Our main living room is vaulted as is the upstairs sitting room and we created a high coombed ceiling (2.7m) in the master bedroom. It’s meant the rooms are all quite different which has added a bit of character I think.
Agreed. It is much easier to detail and reduces your condensation risk to near zero. You then have the option of a vaulted ceiling should you so wish. You also don’t need to worry too much about ceiling penetrations etc
Why are thinking of doing it this way anyway?