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Kelvin

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  1. Hi, I'm getting my electrical connection installed next month. The guide SSEN have sent me says I need to provide a ducted trench of about 25m where the ducting meets ENATS 12-24 Class 2 standard with a minimum diameter of 32mm. I can't find any class 2 below 100mm. I've come across the Polypipe smoothwall 32mm ducting that's recommended by UK Power Networks but it's Class 3. What is electrical ducting? | UK Power Networks I can't get a hold of my SSEN contact to confirm although he did say I didn't need to put any ducting in but I'd rather stick to the guide they sent me. Can someone point me to a site that has suitable ducting with an ID no bigger than 50mm as I am struggling to find one. Ta.
  2. There’s a particular reason for getting the power in early which I won’t go into here. My bigger concern is where the borehole is and it getting damaged. I visited the plot earlier and dug a few trial holes so I’ve changed my mind about putting it there now anyway so I’m just going to bring to the boundary from the pole.
  3. Hi all, SSEN has been very easy and quick to deal with so far. However, I have a question that while I've asked them they've said it's up to me. It's my intent to run the supply up the boundary into a kiosk as the temporary building supply but intend doing it in such a way that I can make it permanent then run a cable from there to the house protected by its own 80amp fuse. The distance from the pole to my proposed kiosk position is about 25m and the distance from the kiosk to the house is about 20m. SSEN have asked me if I want a low voltage mains cable or a service cable from the pole to the kiosk. I have asked why I would want one over the other and their explanation is really unclear and revolves around whether my proposed kiosk position really will be the final position for the meter or not. If it's the final position then a single phase service cable will be fine, if it isn't then it would be better fitting a mains cable now. Given where the pole is in relation to the house and given that a service cable is fine for the kiosk location (my wavey red line and circle) why wouldn't it also be fine for house? i.e. why do I need a mains low voltage cable from the pole to the meter at all if they are saying a service cable is fine for a permanent supply. My understanding is they will run a mains cable down the pole and then make a service joint for the service cable to the meter so I don't understand what difference it makes if the meter is in the house or the kiosk.
  4. In Excel you can link cells between sheets (or whole sheets) I hunted around for some software to do all this for me but in the end I’ve been slowly building up a rather crap Excel workbook but it will have all the detail in it.
  5. You don't need to incorporate a company to complete the VAT reclaim. I'm in the same situation as you and haven't read needing to incorporate a company to self-build and not planning to.
  6. A condition of buying our plot was that the seller had to drill the borehole and get the chemical analysis done. Just as well as our hole is 147m deep. Loads of water though and very little treatment needed.
  7. Update... As per a couple of other updates we've moved. Oddly enough it all ended up quite perfect in terms of a rental. I was lamenting to the seller of the plot that we couldn't find a suitable rental house and were at a loss on what to do. He said my uncle has a house coming up for rent and he'll take dogs. Long story short we are now in an old farmhouse 3 miles from the plot in the most beautiful location. Came with a garage too so we haven't need to self-store any of our stuff. Been here a couple of months and starting to de-stress a bit before the stress of self-building kicks in...
  8. Resurrecting this... The final quote was £1116 which I've now paid and SSEN plan on doing the works in the next 5 weeks. In my experience getting a budget estimate was meaningless as I think they just made it up. Also, worth noting for future reference while there is a 3 month limit for the quote you can extend this if you aren't ready.
  9. Hi We intend building a garage, workshop, music room as part of our house build. This will be one building with the garage workshop combined and the music room partitioned off. It won’t be integral to the house. I’m still deciding on the material structure to use. Brick and block is favoured due to noise. The question is how to heat it? The house will be heated by ASHP. The garage block will be next to the house. The options are to extend the underfloor heating to the music room big of the building or to have some form of air to air heat pump system. Assume the building will have insulated floor, walls, and roof. There’s no gas at the plot. What’s been your approach to heat a separate building from the main house?
  10. No I’ll be leaving this house feet first so hopefully we’ll be there for a long time so it reduces the financial risk over time. We’ll be mortgage free and no other debts so that’s another incentive to stay tight on the costs. And similarly I have an idea of the amount of money I’d like to have left over. I get that some people put in every penny either through necessity or because they want the absolute best their money will buy. This is all part of a significant life change for us. I quit a well paid but very stressful job and we are moving 400 miles. My focus is building this house then after that I’ll try and find another job.
  11. Thanks all. While it doesn’t make a huge difference in reality we are doing this with our own money rather than borrowing. Psychologically it feels different!
  12. So far my spreadsheet counts every pound we have spent that we otherwise wouldn’t have spent. Like everyone we have a fixed budget that we don’t intend to go over and that includes buying the land. It’s not a tight budget as such but it is capped at that amount. We aren’t on Grand Designs where they miraculously find another £100k from somewhere and the wife ends up preggers. ?
  13. I’m keeping a track of every penny spent largely because I didn’t want to kid myself on about the true cost. I’m surprised mocking is allowed on here. It’s not a car forum.
  14. I was browsing the forum the other day and one member referenced his costs as £2100/sqm for the build and £2800 including all the professional fees etc. Up until reading that I’d assumed that when the cost per sqm is quoted by people (anf websites) it included all of the costs associated with the build. I now realise that might not be the case. In the example above it’s £700/sqm for all of that additional cost on top of the build. Applying that to our build suggests I am out by about 50% I realise every house is different and there are some costs that might not apply such as architects fees if you’ve not used one and that can be a big chunk of money. Is £700/sqm typical for all the other costs on top of the pure build costs? It seems very high to me.
  15. Interesting. I hate the feckers too. I’ve just replaced two of useless things at a cost of £100. Worse than that the tails were shorter than the same model I took off so had to bugger about sorting that as well. They have failed in every house I’ve owned.
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