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Alan Ambrose

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Alan Ambrose last won the day on January 12

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  • About Me
    Trained as a general purpose engineer and industrial designer - i.e. no use to anyone :)
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    East Suffolk

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  1. @SteamyTea - that's below the belt, bothering us with the data dammit...
  2. I think 5m is, in practice, an ambition rather than a hard rule. What's the best you can do?
  3. Well if the vermin risk is low: 99+% of UK houses use pinned T&E only so that's an option. But you'll of course need to agree any method with your sparky. Discuss the many options with him or her and go from there? Be interesting to know what you jointly decide.
  4. I like #3 best and wide - keep it simple and elegant. But it may depend on the aesthetics and functionality of where the stair lands at the bottom. Your floor at the top is 450mm thick?
  5. I appreciate you would like this solved quick and without too much fuss …. But … I think it depends on how bad the vermin problem is, how difficult it would be to take up the floor again to repair vermin damage, and how difficult it is to wire all the way back to the CU. If your electrician has suggested plastic conduit then it indicates they think the vermin risk is high and it won’t be so easy to take the floors up again. So, if you’re not so bothered by the vermin risk or the floor is just screwed down and easy-ish to lift - then just run standard T&E without conduit as normal. (Or maybe if you’ll be moving in a couple of years anyway.) If the floor is not coming up again for another 80 years or the vermin risk is high or you’re planning to live there for a long time, then I would go a bit off-piste and run singles in metal flex conduit without any sharp bends. Then (a) it will be easy to pull new cables in 80-years time and (b) the vermin will end up with blunt teeth. Metal flex isn’t crazy expensive either. I’ve used 25mm OD / 20mm ID in a domestic context and would suggest that if you have room. You may find one size down will work, but you’ll want to check ‘pullability’. Check that the metal flex end glands work with your back boxes OK. Sure, if you can get all the way back to the CU without too much difficulty then radial if you prefer, but I don’t think it’s the major issue here. If you go for the non-vermin proof solution you might consider an AFDD in the CU to mitigate fire risk a bit. Oh and a flexi for each run of course - there’s no Y connector that will help unfortunately.
  6. So apologies to @Mr Blobby, but having never done it before, this is why I think I'll get a better result on my windows than the average window fitter.
  7. >>> do what they always do Which is bodge it in the hole roughly square and then fill all the gap with crazy foam?
  8. I seem to remember Planning Docs - presumably so they can check that the building is legit and that the costs & materials make some kind of sense for the dwelling. The latter is just my supposition though - knowing central government, it is even more likely there are no checks at all and it's just a tick box item for them
  9. It looks like a mis-measurement or mis-manufacture to me.
  10. >>> I’ll cross that bridge You're planning a bridge too ?
  11. As a low priority I might email your planners, explain the detail and ask them what they want you to do. They should be perfectly reasonable as you have acted in a sensible and cautious way. In the worse case, they might ask you to apply for a retrospective amendment to your original permission or alternatively for a 'lawful development certificate'. I would present them with the problem though and follow their solution if any. They probably won't care much. You might only care when you come to sell, and then only if it is sometime soon-ish i.e. before the 4 year enforcement period has passed.
  12. >>> i haven't fitted any of those LED strips yet! You can jury-rig a strip to measure it or just estimate: I suggest the equivalent of 10 x 60W old-style bulbs would allow you 'to illuminate 'luxuriously' during a power cut'. That's about 60W equivalent total of LED lighting. 10 hours of that would be 0.6 kWh, which at 12V is 50Ah - so one typical LA battery. Plus whatever the Loxone rig takes when it's idle, which could be a non-trivial bit. Plan to use one battery and add more if you really need it later?
  13. >>> Still looking for a better option ideally din rail mounted. Take a look here: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/relays-signal-conditioning/relays/timer-relays/?pn=1&applied-dimensions=4294883333,4292117068,4294571726&sortBy=P_breakPrice1&sortType=ASC RS won't be the cheapest, but most of the stuff they sell is professional quality. You'll probably need to apply a few more filter criteria, check the datasheet etc to make sure it has the continuous cycling function you want. In particular, check the contacts are man enough for the job ('max current') - suggest 3A min and beefier if you want long life.
  14. There was some discussion on BH on this subject recently, we’re at about 190W background in our place. One way to delve into this further is to use a current clamp meter on the main incomer (one cable only, either line or neutral) and switch individual things on or off.
  15. OK ta, will give those a try. I also found SealedUnitsOnline aka Ipswich glass. They get mixed reviews, but after calling into their offices and talking to one of their counter guys, I was a bit re-assured.
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