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I'm a roofer and have done many turrets over the years, you are correct. This must be their first attempt at doing a turret but do not back-down on this. It needs sorted or it is a potential leak/wind problem.

I am no expert on a turret slate roof but have done quite a bit of traditional slate work, I would say they have used to many wide slates near the top, especially where a wide slate spans three other slates…. I would have only spanned two slates at any time, the slates should all be of a similar size on each course / row so that they sit right, each row nearer the top and the slates get narrower. Looks rubbish and personally I would want it done correctly. Go online and find some information on how it should be done and present this to the roofer. I may be wrong but that’s my opinion.

Leave the plug in. Relative has an empty house. With the plug in the traps seem to stay full for quite long periods.

I've got him back to look at it ...hes going to recoat it...after some remonstrations from myself.

It is not Permitted Development - as explained here . Park that thought for a minute. It is very common, locally anway, for folk to make minor alterations like yours and wait to see if anyone shouts about it. And when they do, get retrospective permission. There is a risk that you will be told to reinstate the roof without the skylight. Whats your risk appetite?

After three visits to our plot (two ten day trips and one long weekend) we have made quite a lot of progress with building the workshop - in no small part thanks to this site and the generosity of members in sharing wisdom and advice. I've learned a huge amount, and am delighted with what we have achieved so far. Below are some photos of the work in progress which largely speak for themselves. We had help in the first tranche from my son and his friend who had finished Uni for the summer, as well as from my parents who live nearby. The second and third visits were just us with my parents, when they were not playing bowls. We have a new-found admiration for builders and others who have manual jobs - the stamina needed to perform physical work continuously over an 8 hour day was a shock for us desk-jockeys. And the weather gods were not always kind - the first visit saw torrential rain and high winds for the first five days, and our most recent trip was during the heatwave where we were working in 34C heat for much of the day. Noah's Ark to Raging Inferno. Spending time on the plot has been useful from the point of view of considering the design of the house, and how life might be for us living there. We realised that the south-facing aspect means fierce and unmitigated sunshine, so we will need to ensure we have sun-shading in some form over the balcony to stop us from frying in the middle of the day, and to reduce solar gain through the bifold doors. Having seen the distant views towards Dartmoor from the roof of the workshop (the equivalent of our first floor of the house), we have amended the window in the second floor from a velux to a dormer in order to create a corner where we can sit and take in the views. This will be part of the minor amendment application that goes in shortly. Here are the photos of the work in progress... (many of the photos I have are in HIEC format, so I wasn't able to upload) 3582792D-760C-40AF-8AFE-0403A9C4A3D8.mp4 BC9D98F1-B908-4BDC-BE64-36BE05B11D14.mov WhatsApp_Video_2021-06-10_at_21_54_37.mp4

Hi Recently taken on a small self build project in North Down, NI. We’ve just finished out foundations and stoning out the floors. Look forward to connecting with you all. Best,

Coleman make a fridge that runs on gas or 12V. Worth having a look.

use 7n blocks and fill the cav.

I have not looked into legal avenues yet. At the moment I have a commitment from the plasterers to rectify the problem, if you like the plasterers have baled out the manufacturer? It is complicated. We bought the materials from the then UK supplier NBT and bought all the beads, corners, starters etc from them with the render. They no longer exist. A different company has taken over the UK distributor now. the manufacturer referred our complaint to the new distributor who "answered" it with what looked like a standard letter blaming poor workmanship, wrong materials (supplied for the job by the previous supplier) So now I am just telling it as it is, wharts and all. IF that results in bad publicity for Baumit.com then so be it. I am only publishing facts. And you guessed it, I could not recommend this system to anyone else, mainly because I would never recommend anyone use something like this where the manufacturer has a history of not helping the customer. It is all very sad, because the previous supplier had a very good and knowledgable rep, who would have visited and looked at the issue and tried to help. He is no longer with the new company and attempts to contact him in the hope of tapping into his knowledge have failed.

Not that I know a great deal about render, especially this newfangled stuff, if the base coat has turned to powder and is dry it must be a material failure. Can you not get an expert to inspect and give you a conclusion of fault that you can go to the supplier with to make your case?.

Glad it all worked out OK.

As long as you are in time, you can always appeal. "Appeal" is a two stage process: First you need permission to appeal. Usually, the losing side makes an application for permission to appeal straight away, at the hearing where they lost, to the judge or tribunal which rendered the decision against them. Nine times out of ten, the judge will say "no" and one then needs to seek permission to appeal from the appellate court. Very occasionally, a Judge gives permission to appeal his or her own judgement. if that happens, it's almost always because the Judge thinks he/she has applied the law correctly but considers the law is in need of revision/updating. If you can't get permission to appeal from the judge/tribunal who gave the decision, then one has to go to the appellate court and ask that court for permission to appeal. That is basically a paper exercise that reviews the merits of the appeal on the papers and either gives you permission to go ahead and have an appeal hearing or basically stops the appeal there and then, effectively because it thinks it's hopeless. I would imagine this case raises sufficiently serious issues of fairness and important issues of law that mean getting permission to appeal should be possible. Whether it goes further than that and actually succeeds at appeal I could not say. In England we have two appellate courts : the Court of Appeal and the Supreme Court. In Scotland there are also two, but the first one isn't called the Court of Appeal, but the Inner House of the Court of Session (as opposed to the Outer House of the Court of Session). So usually, from a High Court decision one could appeal to the Court of Appeal, and if still not satisfied, appeal again to the Supreme Court. That is extremely rare though. Most appeals don't go all the way to the Supreme Court. Also, the worst thing about appeals is they take ages. Not enough appellate judges! Ministry of Justice has been cutting courts and budgets left, right and centre.

I think you need to get it tested.

Block on flat?

As for Q6 - stud PIR 1/10 for horribleness Truss PIR - 10/10 - everyone on the site came up and sympathised!

It may be that you need an adapter after the non-return valve.

It does seem unfair that the Council can continue to collect rates until the Council determines a planning grant. What incentive do they have to hurry? I think a nice letter to your MP might be in order. Ask him to urge the Council to use any discretionary powers they have to grant an exemption for flood damaged properties that need to be demolished because repair is not economically viable.

prepayment is normal unless you have an account. worse case scenario is he does a runner with the money but the cost of 10t of 6F2 isn't going to get him very far so I'd suggest it's a gamble worth taking. ?

Unfortunately "Original roof" refers to the height of the roof of your extension before the lantern/velux is added, not the original pitched roof of the house. Aside: Many ordinary flat Velux windows are >150mm tall but they don't need planning permission because they are partly recessed into the roof (eg by the depth of the tiles and battens that are removed). Obviously that doesn't help you here.

BCO has been today, and is happy (the first thing he said when he came to site was 'that looks solid'). Conctrete booked for Thursday, woohoo.

The discharge run will make little difference. You may be better having 90mm MDPE and a bigger pump. You need to be able to access it for maintenance and breakdown - pumping out etc. You also need to run cable to it. Keep it as shallow as possible.

I think metal lintels are meant to have more than one brick course above them? Minimum of 3 courses I think.

Check building regs. Treatment plants must be a certain distance from a building, I would be surprised if a pump station does not need to be s similar distance.

Roof weights vary a lot, what type of tiles are you using? How wide is the window aperture? What type of lintel are you using? A two brick high 140 concrete lintel with two steel reinforcement bars running through it should cope.

+1 you don't need the 50mm ventilation gap if you have an air permeable membrane like Proctor Roofshield and can fully fill the rafters. but you do need to batten/counter batten above though. but make sure your BCO is ok with that. ours is.

Yes we have one in Kent - odd isn't it!

And you need to consider how long this is all going to take - just smacking PIR into those trusses is going to take ages on your own - with the added 'benefit' that it is probably the worst job going on site.

Can you not get full fill at 200mm in there if you have a full breather membrane on the outside ..?

Similar to my bath. Shame they are lacking on the details they show you. It comes as 2 parts, the bath, and the bath surround. The official fitting procedure is to use the supplied flexible waste pipe. stand the bath surround up on 6" blocks of wood, lower the bath into the surround, couple up the flexible waste, remove the blocks then lower the whole lot onto the floor. Personally I did not like that, it is the flexible waste I don't like and you have no control how it settles. So instead in my case I just fixed the surround to the floor, fitted the waste and a short bit or rigid waste and an elbow and lowered that into the surround, then went downstairs and connected the waste from below. This was in a new build before the ceiling was plasterboarded, and in the unlikely event of a waste problem worst case is I have to cut a trap in the utility room ceiling to gain access to sort it out. Another consideration is the bath waste. they might supply a cable operated waste. Again I rejected that, it's one more thing to go wrong and necessitate the bath lifting out to fix it. I instead used a McAlpine top access "click clack" waste fitting, which can be serviced from above.

The bath panel should be removable, if not an access panel should be left.

All depends on the area and what exactly is being done. I've paid anywhere between 30 and 150 a metre. Christ I've even paid 800 for a finial to be made up for me.

What's the rate then?

Remember that SAP values will shift in favour of electric as the supply is decarbonised over time.

In 2017 our as built SAP came in as an A95 without any PV and we had electric heating. We did have high insulation and air tightness values. We used electric towel rails in the bathrooms and an EASHP as backup heat in the MVHR.

Yesterday on a hot tin roof VID-20210723-WA0003.mp4

While PIR performs well with a masonry skin, it's not going be as good in a light weight timber frame structure due to its short decrement delay. For a light weight structure you need to pick an insulation with a longer decrement delay. Insulating material with low thermal conductivity, high density and high specific heat capacity give a long decrement delay. Cellulose fibre and wood fibre are better matched to a timber frame structure. Edited to ask: How much glazing does your garden office have? can sunlight come directly in to the room? If it can how are you shading the room? Solar gain will heat the room up very quickly.

If there is a basin on the same run then just add an anti syphon trap to that which will negate the need for an AAV on the bath if they use the same connection.

The below was our quote for all stainless steel fittings and LED lights, the total came in at about 400 more due to us adding another 3 outside lights and having 82 sockets in total. Install 42 amp isolated supply for Air Source Heat pump See Note 2 Install 42 amp supply for range. Install 75 double sockets. See Note 3 Install kitchen and utility appliance outlets. See Note 4 Install 4 Shaver sockets Install lighting points inside house, See Note 5 & 6 · 83 Downlights · 15 Pendants · 4 Uplighters Install 38 various switches inside house. See Note 7 Install 9 outside lighting points See Note 8 Install 4 Outdoor sockets Install 7 mains wired smoke alarms plus 1 heat alarm in kitchen. Install 7 standard TV outlets. See Note 9 Install 9 data points See Note 10 Main Consumer Unit & Bonding Heating Controls See Note 11 Estimate Total £13,000.00

"Two highly successful architects" Sounds like they're very well suited to retirement as they clearly didn't operate in the current market or do any work for informed clients!

Sorry I can't really remember why they say three courses. Might be due to the lintel deflecting or might be to do with preventing it twisting? Hopefully someone else will know.

Our supplier is Barn not Openreach. To keep costs down they expect you to duct from the boundary to the house.

Same problem. When I’m in the bathroom sometimes I miss the toilet. - straight in the bath trap . Never dries out now ; but does smell a bit funny .

Some 40 years ago when I was kid I got a summer job with an electrician helping to wire up a 6-8 storey office block in Staines. All the floors were identical so we dropped off the same number of switches and sockets on each floor at the start of the day. Finished fitting them on one floor and had one light switch left over. Took us hours to find out where the missing one should go because the plasterer had totally filled the back box and polished it over. No plans and no mobile phones to take pictures back then so we had to go up and down and rely on memory to try and figure out where the missing one should go. Once we had narrowed it down to a wall I volunteered to go down the fire escape get his metal detector to find it. Don't bother he said and proceeded to stab the wall with a screwdriver over an area of about two square meters while muttering under his breath.. "That will teach the F&%$£s.. " Learned a lot that week... Always leave about three feet of wire sticking out after first fix - later you can cut it to a more suitable length, collect the cuttings and burn off the plastic for the copper. How to avoid having to carry massive rolls of left over carpet down 6 floors - just make sure the car park below is empty before you push it off the fire escape. Always check an electricians references - at another site the recently hired electrician just failed to turn up one day. They eventually found he had just been pushing short lengths of wire into the conduit and fitting sockets. It was the same at the distribution board, if you pulled a wire just a short length came out!

I assumed my sparky would do this but he didn’t . His logic is if there’s faulty wiring you’re going to find it either way . So he just wired everything up and powered on . I did all the wiring so tbh was expecting an issue like a screw through a cable - nothing - perfect I’m so multi talented even I’m surprised ?

Back on this, maybe...for something to do! Primarily I've a jumbo bag of amassed hardcore to get rid of! (About 10 bags in reality but one in particular is annoying SWMBO!). Planning as above to extend the shed towards the pile of cuttings. First thing is to clear out the previously excavated area to the side. Fill with hardcore, whack and extend the base by however big I decide. I don't think tbh the current excavation is enough to double the length of the shed. Might have to get the digger back. Still can't decide on bricking, blocking or casting the new side walls. Whatever they'll be up against dirt. If I cast the slab then the walls how do I stop water ingress at the joint? Don't really want to do a water bar. This shows it before. Tbh I don't want to get too close to the old stable in the background: Maybe I go with just a small extension and stick the gardening tools in there... Then how to do the roof felt join, existing to new. At the mo it's a traditional underlay then green mineral cap sheet all put on with copious amounts of adhesive! Wtf didn't I just build a bigger shed from scratch instead of all this pi$$ing about? ?

Bit more disappointment to throw on the Moralt bombfire this week 1/ The final air-test came back at 0.6ACH. Borderline for Passive house but still bloody excellent for a retrofit like us, but down on the 0.5 we had before 1st fix. The new leaks are the shitty-smelling low profile ground floor shower trap, and the threshold of the damn Moralt door 2/ Final BC sign off is delayed because of... 2 issues with the Moralt door: no auto-closer, and no intumescent strips. Now, the fact it's PH certified airtight _should_ make the intumescent redundant, but UK BC don't know that, our plans called for intumescent strips, and my contractor has misplaced the manufacturer manuals/certs that might have stated otherwise. 3/ A friend pointed out that a lot of house insurance small print require a deadlock from house to garage. The silly lock mech in the Moral door is latch only, absolutely no way to deadlock it. Yeah it's all very liveable/solvable, but having spent so much on this damn door it's sad to be repeatedly so disappointed by it.

I don't know why, but I have this image of your place in my mind.

I can’t believe you cut those blocks around those bricks. Nearly spat my tea on the laptop.