Jump to content

Moonshine

Members
  • Posts

    2006
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

Moonshine last won the day on March 13

Moonshine had the most liked content!

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Moonshine's Achievements

Advanced Member

Advanced Member (5/5)

505

Reputation

  1. Post the plans up and what you think needs doing and what you want to do to it. Are you looking to take it on yourself or get people in. Don't underestimate how much of a time sink it will be even if you just PM it.
  2. Let's find out, just ordered 5 boxes for £13 🤣
  3. stainless steel wall ties i did 150mm cavity with wall ties. You can used Ancon ST1 ties for 200mm cavity but they are expensive. I found vartry very helpful http://www.vartryengineering.com/products/extra-long-wall-tie-large-cavities.html
  4. That cork is pretty decent and would be enough to meet the regs for impact noise if it was a flat below If you have space for it the it likely won't harm the construction and ad a bit of mass and absorption to it the construction.
  5. I would be interested to know what system completely floats on dense mineral wool as it would surprise me that it would have the structural support. Could it have been a floor with a resilient battens (https://www.cmsdanskin.co.uk/general-construction/acoustic-floors/acoustic-resilient-battens/), with mineral wool in between the battens? lab tests are different parameters that in situ testing, the Rw is a lab test and the DnTw is an insitu measurement, the lab won't have degradation in performance due to workmanship and flanking noise. The difference between the two parameters varies dependent on those factors and if its a heavy weight (masonry / concrete) or if its lightweight (timber / steel) the difference can be up to 8 dB.
  6. Agree which the process you outline, but the res bars don't do much to control impact noise. Not sure what the Cork product is? @SimonD can you give any more details of your floating ply floor (do the panels interlock) what is the cork product? I dont think this will do much for reducing impact noise. Also make sure you put a resilient flanking strip round the perimeter of the room for it to be truly floating. Also I presume your are not screwing the ply down. Also why wood wool boards under the joists? 100mm in the cavity is fine, you don't really need more there, just make sure it has a decent density (BG spec a min 12 kg/m3 though I feel 24 kg/m2 is a better min) Put some res bars under the joists and a layer or two of 15mm Soundbloc. Boards staggered, and different length screws for each layer of boars, tape and joint it, with flexible mastic at the perimeter BTW these sorts of build ups are more akin to floors separating flats and internal floors don't need so.much treatment for building regs (unless you want to do this and have the money too). Also any areas which are carpeted and will stay that way won't need a resilient layer as the underlay is it
  7. If the building isn't more than 2.5m then it is o.k, to meet building regs and permitted development. How are you finishing the concrete block externally? .5m is not a lot of space to work to finish them
  8. Odd he would only measure upright at the end as he would only get paid once. I would do measure up at the end of each week and record it to him, also take your own pictures. Surely he will be waiting paying weekly.
  9. Insulation, how are you going to do it. Biggest consideration is getting suitable level of Insulation in floor and roof whil still maintaining 2.5m overall, and having a decent floor to ceiling height. If it doesn't have high occupancy you could do a hybrid room. Have a look at oakwood garden rooms on YouTube regarding there thoughts on hybrid roofs. With a 5m roof span you will need to consider you roof construction and maybe go 400 cars to reduce roof depth. Also need to consider the roof fall and what this will do you floor to ceiling hieght. How are you dealing with rain water from the roof?
  10. Also start shopping around for a structural engineer, as they feed into your BR drawings, i don't think your AT's quote includes this.
  11. The same architectural technician that did my planning gave me a fee for doing the build regs submission, it was £2.5k + VAT (in 2021). I thought that this wasn't that bad a price, however as its a complex build and i would be PM'ing the construction of it, so i wanted to know how it was all going to fit together. I ended up starting drafting up the building regs drawings myself. This took me a lot of my time but it gave me a great knowledge of how the house was going to be built. I agreed with the architectural technician from the start that he would be able to check the drawings / spec and let me know any changes (without any liability taken on his part) which was a few hours of his paid time, including any technical queries i had on BR interpretation. The drawings set i produce was very detailed and way over what i would have got for my £2.5k fee. I did everything that was in your list above other than the CDM risk assessment, and of course the PI insurance that the architectural technician had and the risk was all mine. I submitted the building control and they had only a couple of comments / changes which were an easy fix. In end the same architectural technician oversaw the build for the warranty, with no major issues. To me that sounds pretty high for the works, especially an AT (i could be well out of touch though). I would be tempted to get another couple of quotes to see what the local market is like, from what i have seen of your plans there is nothing to crazy in terms of a technical design to meet building regs.
  12. Be careful where you put the ASHP as if this is where i think it is, there is a neighbour window very close by and this location may not be suitable for noise and MCS020 criteria (if you are going down that route)
  13. i respectfully disagree 😉. The pipes won't need to go through the WC and its doorway, if they are coming up out of the screed into a timber stud wall / recessed cabinet, they can go 'south' into the kitchen (maybe 3 circuits) and spread out, with one circuit going 'north' into WC. This way the heat requirement of the WC is separate to the main living areas and it won't over heat in the WC.
  14. From my finger in the air calcs, if UFH pipe spacing is 150mm in the screed (usual for an ASHP), you are looking about 6.7 linear metres of pipe per m2. 56m2 will be 372 linear metre of pipe at least. So you are looking at 4 circuits (being <100m), maybe 5 depending on zoning. As @SteamyTea noted all these circuits can be in one zone and controlled by one thermostat, which may be apt as its open plan on the ground floor, but i would probably go for a separate zone and circuit in the WC / Utility.
×
×
  • Create New...