Moonshine

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Moonshine last won the day on December 18 2019

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  1. Its only an area of 4.7m on the floor below (entrance hall) where the boiler and main UFH areas would go, so i don't know if it needs a separate manifold, it could be on a separate circuit from the floors above. My main query is how to get the supply down there, such as conventional HW pipework that could attach directly to 2 port manifold just for that area.
  2. How is a UFH circuit practically taken from the manifold to a separate floor? Is the circuit taken to a riser, cut at the riser, a 90 bend attached and then pipe again in the riser, with another 90 degree bend put on? Or is the pipe flexible enough for a 90 bend on a short radius. I would be concerned of this kinking
  3. I have been throwing a load of thoughts around about how i can build the house i am planning, and how it may be build. I started to sketch a few things out, which then ended up turning a much more detailed drawing of a section through the house from the front, as attached. Would anyone be so kind as to look through this drawing, and give any comment on the detailing and any particular nasties? For one i really don't like this detail below, seems like a week spot to get water ingress. Also has anyone got a detail of the windows on a modern contempory house, as i couldn't find anything suitable. Edit: found the window details from velfac. House_section.pdf 13361.pdf 13359.pdf V200i.W1.03.B.C.001 - Cill screwed.pdf
  4. only if you want to insulation from the workshop to the rooms above in the same house, which you have said isn't an issue. In the external walls the kingspan is needed for the thermal properties.
  5. no "mass" reflects sound, insulation absorbs sound
  6. If it was something that i could do outside my 9-5 i would put it in the 'free' category. I hadn't seen that thread, and to get round the 'T' shape issue i like the use of two thicknesses (100mm and 50mm) however i would probably think some sort of mechanical fixing (plastic) would be needed rather than just glue.
  7. I have just look a little at foam cutters and there are some DIY heated element cutters powered by a car battery. Potentially as long as you use a source with enough amps you could hear up a piece of wire at right angles to cut the recess. The issue would be the wire being firm enough to keep its shape but also thin enough to have high resistance for the heat. I guess you could use a metal angle behind the cutting element for rigidity. Worth some testing if the costs are as high as you say they are. The sections could be cut in free time before the build
  8. The garage part of the basement is unheated so it's needed above there. The other area of the basement is the entrance lobby / atrium, and probably won't need b&b there, probably a small section of timber floor as it is a void above to the main part. @Patrick I would be interested to know what you ended up finding out, and if you where planning to shape them to the beams, e.g. the bottom 50mm would need to be cut in by approx 15mm either side, labour intensive, but could be quick with a circular saw with a good blade to cut the eps (would need to think how to minimise tear out / foam dust.
  9. yep, a perforated panel (min 25% open area) with mineral wool behind it will act as a decent absorber, in fact without the mineral wool there is a bit of absorption there too. The panel can plasterboard, ply, OSB etc Have a look at some perforated plasterboard to see if that fits the bill https://www.british-gypsum.com/product-range/acoustic-ceiling-systems/gyptone-acoustic-ceiling-boards If you have been into some new build flats, you will usually find perforated plasterboard in common areas such as the stairs as its a requirement from building regs (ADE)
  10. if you are just doing it for limited time and in normal hours, then i can't see them having a valid complaint, and doubt that an EHO from the council would come knocking
  11. Which direction is the neighbours you don't want to disturb, through a wall, window or garage/workshop door? The block in the wall is doing a decent job, weak points acoustically are windows, doors, vents
  12. This has been a professional pain in bum for me when architects started making mimalist and hard surfaces the norm. It's always fun explaining to them why it will be bad acoustically. If you build it and it is too harsh acoustically, try some acoustic absorbers, you can get some with pictures of your choice on
  13. I may have missed what are you are after, noise reduction to rooms upstairs or to the outside?
  14. Kingspan does bugger all acoustically. Use mineral or glass wool, who will you be disturbing upstairs?
  15. Thanks, from the drawings i think that the longest span is about 4.4m, so may need to put a dwarf wall in the middle of that span (its not over the basement area). @jamiehamy Do you know where i can get an idea of costs from, as i would be interested to see who it stacks up