Moonshine

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Moonshine last won the day on May 7

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  1. I have a garden wall going in to separate a level of about 600-800mm. It's going to be stone faced. Any idea on depth of footing typically needed and width of wall? I am thinking block behind the stone
  2. i have two bi-folds one 3.6m and one 3m, due to a cock up in ordering i am now using steel beams over the openings, with beam sizes specified by the SE Below is the rough detail i have drawn (there will need to be a cavity tray and weep holes above the opening), and i am scratching my head how to support the render and wet plaster over the areas of the beams, and also what to do about the area of the exposed beam on the outside just above the bi-folds. Any 0ther comments on the detailings would be welcome (e.g. cold bridging
  3. i would build the walls with the cavity, core drill out 100mm hole and put the 100mm round duct through and seal the perimeters of the duct, before plastering and ceilings. Thenfill with EPS beads As for thermal you have a 100mm hole in the wall and the only real way i know to reduce the cold issue is with shutters, though would be interested if there is a better way. Edit: if there is a duct run in a ceiling void you could wrap it with insulation
  4. me too, i had to get into the floor void as a guide rope for services got stuck and needed to be freed. I was actually surprised how much effort it took to get one out once grouted
  5. Even better, 140mm x 38mm c24 structural wall will do it, ask your SE. Again ask the SE if the width of the footing and thickness of the slab can accommodate an off centre 140mm wall. I think that your SE will be able to get a solution for you without messing around with the layout
  6. Depends on the foundation type, a offset foundation works, so it could be possible here. I would at least ask the SE about the option and if it could work with what it has been built.
  7. - change the stairs to put a quarter tern or something in? its impossible to know if this is doable without layouts (can you post) - Thinner door? looks pretty small anyway - steeper stairs, max to BR is 42 degrees. - how wide was the trench under the slab, check with the SE and ask how much does it have to have either side of the wall, it maybe o.k to have the wall off centre on the trench line.
  8. this is pointed out from @Nickfromwales I am seriously considering this as the drill is £135 until the end of the day, and that impact driver is total £205. So for the makita twin set which is £161.99, for an extra £40 you get 5 ah batteries and a brushless impact driver.
  9. I am seriously considering this as the drill is £135 until the end of the day, and that impact driver is total £205. This twin pack is £225 with the voucher but the impact won't be brushless or have a work light. https://www.screwfix.com/p/makita-dlx2336st-18v-5-0ah-li-ion-lxt-cordless-twin-pack/914jj
  10. ewww https://www.thedailymash.co.uk/news/society/hot-tub-owners-pretending-its-not-a-nasty-sex-pond-2013042266204
  11. Councils like extensions which are be designed to appear subservient to the existing building, without seeing your plans its not possible to see, but that could be part of the issue
  12. @the_r_sole is correct and this is the time for you or your architect to liaise with the council to find out what the issues are, and its is something fundamental or can if changes can be made to allow approval.