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Moonshine last won the day on December 18 2019

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  1. Good shout on the movement joint, and I think that will be the solution, a bit of googling gives this Rather than bolting the timber to the masonry use some kind of slip tie for timber, and have a vertical break in the render at the joints (weather tight seal over the movement joint). It is a parapet flat roof below, and I will be looking to use a drip trim (as below in another location) but for a timber wall, with the EPDM raised up min 150mm up the rendered wall
  2. Ah good point, if its waterproof concrete (type B) then i think that you can just use that.
  3. My build is a split level house, and there is a stepped flat roof, as shown in the red bubbles area below left. The tricky part is that it straddles a room on first floor, below right with the red hashed lines The structural engineer's thoughts are to have the stepped roof wall as masonry, but to do that it will need some significant steels (2 x 5.4m long + 2 x 4m) at roof level to support the cavity walls. My thoughts are different in terms of buildability and to have the stepped wall as a timber external wall, which would be supported by the roof joists running left to right across the master suite to the structural wall between the master suite and the bathroom. I have talked this though with the joist designers who have indicated that is should be fine with some beefed up joists, and if the SE can confirm that the steel (at ground / first floor) can take the extra loading, which may need a bigger steel which is fine. Below is how this looks in section, with the stepped wall circa 1.5m in high. I am sure that this can work, but my concern is the junctions between the the masonry and timber wall constructions, indicated in the blue bubbles in the first picture. This is the junction detail i have come up with at the areas marked in the blue bubbles, but my main concern is the potential difference in movement between the two construction types, the render cracking and moisture / rain getting in. Basically once water gets though the render and carrier board, its got a pretty free path down into the master suite. I would be interested to hear what are peoples thoughts on using timber in this area rather than masonry and the potential weaknesses of this junction and how it could be designed out.
  4. We have the same and building a semi basement (3 sided) with with an integral garage and entrance hall in the basement. I don't know what is best practice, but this is what i am doing (work in progress drawings), and having the insulation inside of the retaining wall in a separate cavity wall, though i know others have done it outside. Also you could have a metal frame wall internally with insulations, though you need to think about the waterproofing. if you are having a structural warranty you will need two forms for habitable spaces (grade 3 - BS 8102) and one for garage (grade 2 - BS 8102) the reason for doubling up the masonry wall inside the retaining walls is that it forms a structural walls past the ground flor level, as below
  5. i think that i have found the type of detail i was looking for, below. In this case it looks like its proposed a double DPC (14 and 17), not sure the reason why but i am sure there is a good one!
  6. So this is the type of detailing i have seen from the LABC, with a step down from FFL to the surrounding ground. what i want to see is what happens when you have the ground level the same as the FFL. Is it just a question of raising the bricks and DPC up so that there is the minimum 150mm gap to the DPC / bottom of render.
  7. I am trying to out the best way to go with this. The house is going to be rendered painted white, with grey windows. I am not sure what to do below DPC, either rendered as per @Russell griffiths detail or have a few courses of black brick and mortar (below left) The issue that i have is to all the thresholds on ground floor are level, and not sure what happens where the DPC is for level thresholds. Can anyone shed any light?
  8. It looks like 3 is the magic number
  9. Has anyone done WAC testing before? How many samples did you have to have analysed to be accepted to inert landfill. I have a quote to to WAC testing on a minimum of 3 samples for a single house plot. This seems a bit excessive, is this the norm?
  10. Ekk! at least that wasn't your dropped boll$%k, that is a horror story and has me starting to worry about my 300mm slab / retaining wall foundation.
  11. Maybe in materials, but you will have to consider the extra excavation and muck away costs.
  12. With lightweight blocks and dritherm this comes to about 0.20. It's what I am looking to build. I think it drops by 0.01 if you use aerated blocks internally.
  13. I haven't even started on site and just found out full WAC testing wasn't done for the soil samples (my mistake), so can't send the excavated earth to landfill. Hopefully i can get it tested and back before i want to start! Go on, what have been the forum's best / worst clangers, as i am sure i am going to have loads to come.
  14. The expanding foam isn't good at stopping sound, and you are likely hearing a good deal of flanking noise coming round the window. Once the plaster board is on and is sealed externally it will make a difference.