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Cpd last won the day on May 26 2018

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  1. Thanks for the help, I ended up getting him the one below, it’s the best of a bad bunch...... he is now waiting for some nice weather. I will report back if it’s been a success or failure.
  2. Cpd

    Ed, Declan, Pete: help please! Does this gap matter?

    And what’s under the gap, a timber of fresh air ?
  3. Loosely fitted rigid insulation in a hidden cavity......business as usual I’m afraid.
  4. If it was me..... I would be levelling the top surface with cement and then putting a solid wooded bearer onto that which will then be attached by either drilling and fixing directly into the concrete core or with straps over it and down the sides and screwed into the blocks.... bedding the wood onto the cement when it’s wet should give you the opportunity to get the final timber surface dead level. Then it’s just a matter of attaching it. I may have missed the point though 😃
  5. @Hastings my approach has been similar to yours, built a timber frame inside the building with a variable gap behind due to uneven walls, infill studwork with calotex and then covered over the whole lot with more calotex. I have been incredibly carful with the detailing to ensure an airtight envelope is created before I consider a service void or final wall coverings. I live in a very exposed part of Argyll right on the coast and IMHO am confident that I have got the ventilation of the void rigth for my specific design and location..... time will tell. I put a lot of efffort into everything with even more care around the roof, slate -breather membrane - 22mm sparking board - 50mm ventilation gap - 50mm calotex fully sealed and taped inside the roof joists - 120mm calotex fully sealed and taped to the inside edge of the roof joists - 25mm calotex over the top of everything fully sealed and taped. Next I will put up osb and then plasterboard. I will have MVHR one day....... one thing I am absolutely confident about is I WILL NOT HAVE A PLASTERBOARD TENT. Time will tell if the condensation mitigation measures I have taken will work but even if there is some condensation build up it will occur either in a well ventilated gap or inside a big old stone wall that’s ventilated on both sides and with a rubble core... I will report back in a few years time that it’s either fallen down in a big damp pile of rubble......or that it’s working as designed and is a pleasure to live in.
  6. Cpd

    Corrugated Metal Roofing

    Ooo I just saw this in your instructions about cutting the tin of at an angle, I either missed this or it’s been recently added but definitely a good idea to help with getting the tin up nice and high and getting the flashing to sit down snug.
  7. Cpd

    Corrugated Metal Roofing

    Looks like your on the right track. Just be aware that you need to be carful when it comes to this part of the flashing, you want to get the tin as far up near the window as you can without damaging the flashing, it’s not as easy as it looks. If your in a windy location (I am in a very exposed spot) then I would advise adding in a couple of fixings as shown in my photo, it’s not a good thing to be screwing through a flashing but for me when it was not done the flashing would lift in wind and rain tracked straight up the corrugations and under the flashing. I flattened a very small section of the flashing, drilled the holes in the centre of the flat spots and put plenty of CT1 in and around before screwing down. It’s withstood 75mph + winds over the winter without any damage.
  8. Cpd

    PIR Insulation Installation Tips?

    I found when cutting anything above 50mm thick to get an accurate cut , ie 45 degree or whatever I use a cordless circular saw and then finish it of by hand saw. Also agree with cutting, wedging and foaming.
  9. Cpd

    Door ironmongery (hinges etc)

    Some good door hinge porn turning up on this thread......
  10. Cpd

    puddles of water under suspended floor

    My living room has a suspended floor below ground level and I was getting water ingress as the house faces directly into the prevailing wind and rain.... huge amounts of water just had nowhere to go quick enough. I extended the base of the house out with an apron and fitted a big old cast gutter pipe and it’s been working really well. Every location will be different but this worked for me, the rusty streak is the air vent.
  11. Living where I do I was yet again in the firing line last night.... most of the time everything is fine as we are used to big winds, however my poor old landrover suffered a devastating blow..... and now I need to think about replacing the cover or preferably putting on a tin top. Boohoo said piggy.
  12. Cpd

    Door ironmongery (hinges etc)

    Have you looked at ironmongery direct ? I got my hinges from them, have not hung the doors yet but the hinges look good. I made sure to buy hinges that were over rated for the doors they were going to be used on so as to be sure they would be robust.
  13. Cpd

    Corrugated Metal Roofing

    I spent a long time looking at velux installations in corrugated tin and NOT ONE was done well....... I looked at why they were done badly and then sat down and worked out how to do it well. I did the layout and install myself as the devil is in the detail if you want it all to line up and work properly. The most important aspect for me was the position of the windows and there size in relation to the corrugations in the tin sheets. You need to make sure that one sheets edge will end with with a non cut downward sloping corrugations that falls directly into the inner gutter of the velux..... you then need to know that the windows width is also correct so that the far side gutter lines up with the next sheet of tin enabling that tin edge to fall in the opposite velux gutter...... then if you have multiple windows (I had 4 in my roof) you need to make sure that they all correspond with the corrugations. There really is very little to play with on the set out as the tin does not allow for error, you get about 10-20mm of space in the flashing gutter to play with but you really want the tin edge to fall in the middle as if it’s to close to the window it could block up with leaves or moss, to far and it’s not going to be as effective, also ANY error will be carried over to the next window as the corrugation spacing is set. It’s possible with very carful layout but if this is done wrong your going to have another example of how not to do it....... if you find a contractor that says they can do it INSIST to be able to go and look at one of there installs..... I visited 3 different installations done by 3 different professional roofers and I would not have payed for the work......
  14. Your definitely going to need to make sure that whatever you do is going to withstand wind. I would be looking at a tying your post holders to the concrete footing to give it the strength it needs. A post holding foot of some kind firmly attached to the concrete would be good as it will make maintenance much easier should you need to replace a post or section of fence. I would pour a footing with tie bars sticking up in the centre and then build a shuttered section that will be the centre of the wall and fill with concrete, build your stone faces on both sides, attach your post feet, build the coping and then plonk your fence on top and attach to the post feet.