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Cpd last won the day on June 13

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  1. Yes this was my understanding…. The council use it to repair our roads which are no more than dirt tracks and when I can get a load I always fill in various holes on my own dirt track, nothing else works as well and I have 870m of private dirt track that I need to maintain at my own cost so a free load of planings every now and then seems like a good option to me.
  2. Welcome mate, your in the right place at the right time. Best of luck.
  3. I made my own sills but my doors open inward, the hardwood I had was to small so I joined it together. I have a weather strip inserted in the groove that the door closes up against and went with a large overlap at the bottom of the door to act as drip. I also cut in another drip detail below the sill to stop water tracking back under the door. I like it and it works well but not something that would look right on a new build….
  4. What is the right hand column standing on….. all looks pretty sketchy to me and I am pretty bloody sketchy.
  5. Friend just got a new makita battery strimmer, he really likes it but finds the batteries do run down fairly quickly so he is needing to buy more. No sure how long battery life will be using them for large areas on a regular basis. I have a massive husky and you get an hour out of the tank by which time you need coffee and biscuits before refuelling and going at it again. I got it second hand 10 years ago for £150 and it’s still going strong but I feel the weight more now……
  6. Your right that it’s not the end of the world @Mr Punter and plenty of extra screws should do the job, however it would really rile me that after repeated instructions the builder has ignored the request to to it the “proper” way. Not worth sacking him but all future work will need to be carefully monitored to make sure he is not taking the piss.
  7. I may have missed something but shouldn’t there be glue obviously leaking from between the joints in the chipboard?
  8. This is what I did, floor needed raising so I dug down as far as reasonable and then made up the shortfall by adding on a bit at the wall heads, I believe that it will be cheaper to keep what you have as your roof is large and complex where as my roof was small and simple.
  9. I have seen padded white blankets designed to wrap around flue pipes , something like this https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/thermal-insulation/8405526/?cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-PLA_UK_EN_Engineering_Materials_%26_Industrial_Hardware_Whoop-_-Thermal+Insulation_Whoop-_-8405526&matchtype=&pla-343435779033&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjo2JBhCRARIsAFG667Vu0lvuZRt9HiXJb4CohprQ8GSTDgNCXSjozpNzVsJGBjuPQu-9pAUaAl4YEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds just a quick internet grab but gives you a starting point.
  10. My footing stones are on stable earth and it’s easy to just dig a long deep hole from either side, given you have sand it might be problematic taking this approach, I also my core drill and with a bit of carful measuring you can get a good line up so that the holes meet, I have a mix of bits going up to 120mm. I have restored 3 old buildings or at least am in the process of restoring 3 buildings that are your typical old - very old croft houses that you see the remains of all over Scotland, it’s very challenging and expensive and given my time again I would have knocked at least one of the 3 down and got a nice new build when I had the cash but that ship has sailed long ago…..
  11. Just done this on my old wall that is exactly the same as yours, I just picked a big stone and dug under it and did the same on the inside, put my 110mm soil pipe under with a swept bend coming up on the inside and then refilled the hole with stone and cement until it was back up to wall height. Previously I have core drilled (I have a proper petrol core drill) straight through but you can get into difficulty with the rubble in the middle of the wall…. and on another building I just used a drill hammer + chisel to remove the mortar around a stone, pulled it out and repeated on the far side, removed the rubble very carefully so as not to dislodge excess amounts and fed a 100mm extractor fan pipe through and re cemented the hole.
  12. It’s pretty bloody awful, the ridge is a joke…. The lead work terrible and only there as they lack the skills to slate it properly. I am glad I am not you having to deal with this problem, don't know what you are to do as they will not want to fix it, but if it was me I would want the lead work reduce by a minimum of 60% and 3 rows of slates installed correctly, the ridge needs cutting back and properly finished with lead flashing, I AM NOT a roofer and had never worked lead before and did this on my shed roof 10 years ago and it was not hard…… I have the same zinc ridge as you. @makie might be able to give a definitive appraisal of what they have done. best of luck.
  13. Sounds great, a photo of the site would help fill in my imagination gaps !