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About joth

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  1. I ordered this one It's clearly just a systemair unit: (haven't worked out exactly which model number) - they didn't even bother reprinting the MI with Panasonic branding, says Systemair all over it @Nickfromwales Dimensions (LxHxD mm) 570x220x430
  2. Where can you buy a complete a/c unit for €289 inc VAT & delivery?
  3. @Ommm you've thought through it well and not a lot for me to add! We installed it in March and it's now April (and a cold one at that) so I honestly can't say I can give any real world feedback on its cooling performance. For us it was a choice between fan coil or nothing, and for the price (and apparent effort required) the fan coil was a no brainer. I'm sure a dedicated split air to air unit would outperform it and peak power, and is a better choice if you're doing an isolated retrofit and not doing ASHP already. It's only for a few days a year, and when we have very cheap electricity from PV, so I didn't worry so much about efficiency as for the heating, but yeah I would expect the split unit to outperform it as less losses in pipework (that said, for us the pipework "losses" are in effect cooling the rest of the house so not all bad)
  4. South Herts. Anywhere outside the M25 but 20-odd minute train ride to zone 1 is probably on a similar COVID price surge. Stamp duty holiday has added some extra fuel to the market too (although obviously not directly applicable to these specific properties)
  5. I have the latest SE8000H with microoptimizers, so assumed I'd fit very much into the quote quote above of "Their single phase inverters support up to 150% oversizing." I know we're only using 2 out of 3 string inputs. (Internally they're all just paralleled up so no idea how hard that limit is) ANYWAY - this is all pie in sky. THere's about 2 million other things I need to finish on this house before even thinking about researching adding more PV to our already pointlessly oversized array. It'd just "be nice" to grab some morning sun, currently the WSW pitch only really gets going at 2pm.
  6. Our neighbours (same town) are asking 1.3M for a 120m2 60s property that has not been updated in several decades (and no granted PP), so I think @puntloos is low-balling with 1M for the rebuilt value Caveat: "asking" does not equate to "successfully fetching", but it's a guide
  7. nit: I think your question is about value to a property developer, not a builder. The former buys lands, commissions & builds house to resell. The latter just builds for money. One option is to take all the guesswork out - give one of the estate agents in town a ring and get a valuation. Savills seem to do a lot of trade with developers.
  8. Hmm. Our 8kW inverter was sized exactly to the max output of the RIS panels. But that's ok - the back side of the roof (ENE orientation) is currently naked so when I find panels cheap enough I can get 4kW of panels to sling on there and connect into the spare input on the inverter
  9. Ah OK fair point - I was trying to think about implementing all the re-emptive adjustments the FTC makes (as it knows in advance what primary flow temp is about to hit the mixing valve). Great to hear the PID works well, I may yet employ it for the electric underfloor heating mats. Anyway, I very much take Nick's point too that all the Loxone talk (and cloud-connected tanks) is well off topic here and that was my main point: Loxone is not needed to get this working really nicely 🙂
  10. Presumably using micro inverters (or perhaps, micro-optimizers with a modern inverter that depends on them) will mitigate a lot of these "low intensity" efficiency losses.
  11. I think 3 point means it supports three commands: "Turn CW, Turn CCW, Stop" It's driven from the FTC6 controller: see OUT5, page 20. Our FTC6 has 7 thermistors, a pair for flow & return on each of zone 1, zone2, and primary loop, plus one in the UVC, so has full visibility of everything it needs. I really wouldn't enjoy driving this from loxone, it's too stateful and too much risk of oscillations. For example, before turning on zone 2 only, it preloads the valve to be fully open and then uses the primary flow temp to set the UFH temp, but before opening the other zone, it first closes down the UFH mixing valve completely, then cranks up the primary temp to the one requested for the fan coil (e.g. 40ºC) then slowly opens back up the mixing valve a little at a time, sensing the UFH flow temp and adjusting as needed. Programming 5+ minute sequences like that would be a PITA in the loxone flowchart editor. (The valve has a 2min rotation time. I'm finding it tedious enough to programme and fine-tune 10sec sequences for my blinds in loxone) FTC6 also seems to have a nice failsafe, if the mixing valve fails to close down sufficiently (or it sees temp overrun for any other reasons) it shuts off the UFH circulation pump to avoid overheating the loop. My one gripe is there's no real documentation, let alone feedback, about all the error states & diagnostics it must know about internally.
  12. PM sent. The mixing valve it the one the Welshman recommended on here a while back. Esbe ARA662 actuator 230v 50hz 120 sec Happily the heatpump will drive up to 60ºC (using a separate "smart grid" input to boost it +10ºC when the sun it out), so I can get the whole tank fairly hot on a sunny day. Definitely if we were more than two people, maximising the whole tank temperature via multiple / lower immersion pockets would have been a higher priority. As it was I focused on minimizing losses: just 2 people here, and foolishly designing for a long forgotten world where we only spend a few waking hours at home each day, and away a lot at weekends
  13. To the OP: we have 100m2 downstairs, 55m2 upstairs, passive House enerphit (so slightly higher heat demands) PHPP says about 2.6kW max load. We installed a 8.5kW ecodan R32, oversized mostly for the DHW reheat time but also allows us to push more heat (or cold) into the house at the very cheapest times. (8kW of solar to maximize use of too) Ground floor is all UFH, the ecodan drives an electronic mixing valve to run it with very fine control, generally 24°C flow temp seems plenty but I set a little weather compensation boost when it's below zero out. The other zone is a fan coil in the loft which can run at a hotter or colder temperature (thanks to that electronic mixing valve). We'll only use it for cooling. Upstairs bedrooms are generally 1-2°C warmer than desired even with no heat sources in them, so glad we didn't! The fan coil will dump cold air in the loft, and hopefully a bunch of that will drop down the service void to each room. If not, we can duct it into specific rooms (bedroom, home office) very easily from up there UVC is an oso geocoil 300L. I looked at all the Mixergy/sunamp but putoff by the complexity. The OSO is fantastic. It stratifies amazingly well: bottom half never once got above 14°C when we were using the immersion only. The one downside is it only has one immersion or probe pocket. But in a way it's a blessing: it's forced me to keep the control systems really simple and dumb: heat the whole damn thing up from ASHP and the top up the top half from solar. Mitsubishi have a detailed CAD schematic for this system design, if anyone needs it let me know. I couldn't be happier with how it's performing. (so quiet it took 3 weeks running before we even heard it run, have to be stood outdoors right next to it)
  14. joth


    Acupanel from here Apparently I didn't give away the other samples (which I now recall were from Lignosi before the woodup rebranding) so I'll have to have another rummage around for them.