joth

Thanks. Looks like ATAB-Trappan is the manufacturer. Much as I love to cut out the middle man, I don't think I mind paying a little bit for a local dealer if they're handling the design for UK specific regs and shipping logistics.

Are you purchasing from https://www.completestairsystems.co.uk/ ? Interested what sort of price their quoting for that? Hadn't seen them before, but the style is very close to what we've been looking for.

Yes! If you move to Denmark. Believe it or not, their smart meters actually help, with a peer-to-peer local generation sub-market. See page 29 of https://www.smartdcc.co.uk/media/1321/netcompany_css_technology_review_v22.pdf

Or if you take his 4MWh export estimate, and 10p export rate, just over 3 years.... this is really my point: right now there's next to no way of knowing it will pay back (and in all likelihood it wouldn't) however for every day the sun shines over those 10+ years, what price to put on the warm feeling of knowing you're getting a market rate selling back that excess generation, vs a darkening resentment of giving it away for free simply because you chose to cut a corner a decade ago. It maybe perverse economic logic, but I know my how my FOMO works!

To clarify, their proposal is to (re)nationalise national grid and the DNOs, not the solar installation/generation industry afaict. Installing solar on a million low income homes will be expensive enough, I can't see it would make him also in a rush to refund money to those of sufficient means to be able to self-install it without financial incentive prior to his time, but this is speculation to the Nth degree so not worth losing sleep over .

Remember that the current stated position is only MCS installs are going to be eligible for the new guaranteed export scheme when it finally arrives. The risk of regret of missing that is enough to make me pay the MCS markup right now. That said, the way all the other green incentives are going, I have a feeling the SEG won't happen until next government is in, and they might not feel beholden to promises made by their predecessors on this anyway.

https://www.dsl.ac.uk/entry/snd/toby ?

Even if you put the mvhr in a gnd floor cupboard, will you be able to get ducting from it to every room without going into and back out of the loft? If space is tight seems an even stronger case for shooting for a warm loft, as you can put more plant or useful storage there. Is it a new build or retrofit? (I'm now expert on roofs so can't help either way, other than mention our retrofit we've been pursued to do a warm loft even though we're not converting it to living space)

> Are decent air tight loft access points readily available off the peg or is it a case of knocking own up with copies amount of draught excluder as per normal? They are, Green Building store has one. Note that generally it's advised for the MVHR unit to sit "inside" the airtightness layer, otherwise there's a lot more penetrations in the airtight layer for all the room ducting (can be minimized by having a single pair of ducts come down into manifolds on the warm side). Also depending where the insulation layer is, the MVHR is likely more efficient if it's in warm area (total length of warm ducts in a cold loft generally higher than the length of cold ducts line warm loft)

Ducting. Conduit. Easy to access service voids that you can pull new cables through as and when you need to.

Vivreau have a drinks tap with all that, but you'll need a separate kitchen sink mixer tap. And likely a large budget; they don't publish prices, and I dread to think what the running costs are (we have them at work, and the cupboard its plant is in is permanently at a stupidly high temperature, of course making the built in fridge next to it work harder too)

I hadn't thought about it much before, but now see to get the difference, but interdependency, between blacking out the room (blocking out light from external sources -- even at night time, you don't want the streetlights etc shining in) and blackening a room (black paint/panels to walls and ceilings). I gather every bit helps, but it's only by doing both you get the benefits of HDR and a projector with the darkest blacks & shadows, but at the same time if you do do that you can then get away with less lumens. For the rest of us, it's all about brighter bulbs and forget the deepest blacks and HDR. This review draws the correlation between the colour of the projector itself (white vs black) and whether it's suited to "lifestyle" vs an obsessively blacked out and blackened installation 🙂

I'd not seen the distinction of cable ducting vs conduit called out before (I had probably used them interchangeable) so thanks for this. I want to build in ability to re-cable certain things -- mostly A/V and, bizarrely, but thanks to current state of smart home tech, the light switches -- so knowing whether I'm looking for conduit vs duct to be chased into walls or burried in voids is most helpful.

This stuff is polyethylene and the datasheet recommends it for use embedded in concrete pours https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/FXKVR63.html (Interestingly it doesn't claim suitability for stud walls, ceilings or screed. I guess those are too vulnerable and ducting should provide more protection)

This page has some useful guidance. At one point I thought it was an actual British Standard, but it's just a company name but seems fair enough. https://britishstandardcupboards.co.uk/design/process/design/