IanR

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IanR last won the day on May 4

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About IanR

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  1. Takes a matter of seconds, yes, but it is very local, so as you move around the house, you need to take it with you and plug it in. That's not how I personally wish to live, and not suitable for a family. Even if I took the hot water requirement out of the equation I would want a heating system. I personally want the convenience, plus the house I built needs to be saleable, and I don't believe the general public are ready for a house without a heating system. You can't however take the hot water requirement out of the equation. So with a heat source needed, it's there for space heating too. A carbon neutral large property has no more impact on climate change than a carbon neutral small house. Any democratically elected government is going to find it very difficult to legislate on house size.
  2. The MVHR has too low a flow rate to transmit 6.5kW to the house, and to provide the required heating via electric radiators would need them to be placed in more or less every room so the capital cost is not insignificant - probably similar to the cost of the UFH system (not the ASHP). In reality, I didn't consider electric radiators, or in fact radiators of any description, because I didn't want them on my walls.
  3. My house was PHPP calculated to be at the 15 kWh/m2/year energy loss threshold. In reality it's slightly better than that due to making the most of solar gain. But I still need a 6.5kW heat source at times to maintain 21 degrees. ie. when it's been overcast for several days and the average temperature hasn't got above 0 degrees. I didn't at the design phase, nor do I now feel that the peak heating demand could realistically be provided by an electric heat exchanger in the MVHR and some electric radiators. And combine that with the need for Hot Water, an ASHP absolutely makes sense. That is based on a Big 6 Standard rate for electricity of 19.43p a unit and a 2011 "best" COP 2.7, and the result is 2.7 times more than gas. At an actual 11.725p per unit of electricity and an average COP of 4, the ASHP cost comes down to 2.93p per unit - slightly cheaper than gas.
  4. I guess yours was a badly matched install then. Works fine for me with a family of 5 and 450m^2 house You've not considered how much hydrogen may cost, should they ever work out how to produce it in the volume that would be required to heat homes. The future will be better insulated and more airtight homes with a mix of hydrogen and heat pumps. Heat pump prices will come down, hydrogen will be more expensive than gas.
  5. Paid for by RHI, so not the case Not a limitation I recognise - have you had an ASHP and experienced these issues? It's no "niche" now, and certainly won't be when Natural Gas is switched off.
  6. Is that price the average for the year, or for the last couple of months ie. March and April? I also have a 12kw ASHP, which is a little oversized to the 8kw calculated, and I have 500l UVC + a 200l Buffer for the UFH. I'm around 450m^2 I think. While I did put my heating back on for a couple of weeks in April, it's mostly been off since the start of March, so my current usage doesn't include heating and is around 1350 kWk for each of March and April. That's around £160 /mnth on my tariff. I do have a couple of servers that run 24/7, that aren't the most efficient, so that pushes my usage up a bit. I wonder if your Air tightness is effecting your energy losses, how much has your heating been on? Why is it more expensive than Gas? I pay 12p kWh with a COP of around 4, so that's costing 3p/unit?
  7. Pricing does look very good, would you mind sharing the supplier either here or via PM? It's around £350 - £400 cheaper than I've managed to get quoted for similar.
  8. I keep coming back to this same question myself, for a similar length of drive. We're using a shared entrance at the moment, but wish to put in our own access, however the numbers are off putting, even though I have 200t of hardcore "tucked away" ready. My thinking at the moment is to go with a structural grass drive way for the majority, using grids like these: https://www.ibran.co.uk/products/grass-parking-grids (I've just picked this from a random search, and know nothing of this particular product) The build up suggestion is 50mm - 80mm Type 1, but that doesn't feel enough. I'd be looking at going with 150mm of crushed hardcore (as that is what I have). I've found other similar products that are 60mm deep rather that 40mm, that say they are good for occasional HGVs. If you can get away without an edging, it could be relatively cost effective.
  9. Have you seen such a finish? From your description I'm picturing the edge of the board flush with the main wall plane, but then a recess around the board making it appear to be sitting proud. You may need to sketch what you are hoping to achieve.
  10. The wall joint to the cill board is already in a shadow (under the overhang of the cill board), so there is no need to create an artificial recess to disguise the joint.
  11. Yes, if you've concealed a breach, you'd be denied a CLEUD. Council Tax would be separate, and it wouldn't surprise me if they were chased for it.
  12. Once it's been inhabited continuously for 4 years, the owner can apply for a Certificate of Lawful Existing Use or Development The Owner has to prove the breach is ongoing and has been continuous for 4 years. If they can the LPA has no choice but to issue the CLEUD. But, that's not the same as having planning, it just allows the existing breach to continue. If the breach is discontinued, ie it's empty for a while (at least 3 months seems to be the threshold) then the CLEUD is no longer in place and the 4 year clock starts ticking again. I don't believe Banks will lend Mortgages against such a property as it doesn't have planning permission. If the LPA become aware of it before a CLEUD is applied for they would likely give the Owner the opportunity to normalise the breach by applying for retrospective planning. If they do so and it's rejected, or they fail to apply then the LPA will issue and enforcement notice. Enforcement notices do seem to go very very slowly. It would be years before it got to the point of the Council demolishing the build and charging the owner for it.
  13. 50mm gap between sheathing of warm roof and 18mm OSB deck for metal rain screen.
  14. Have you seen any? Are you happy with how they look? I don't personally feel a single ply membrane roof could be confused for a metal root, while I agree that sticking a "seam" detail on them is intended to make them look similar. Do you wish to fix anything to your roof? ie. PV, satellite. The seams on single ply aren't structural, so you need to find another way of fixing. I'm assuming fixing through the membrane is a water leak risk.
  15. We're a family of 5 with a 500l tank, and never get close to running out of hot water. For swapping over I'd be more concerned about the size of heat emitters. If you are on rads, they need to be oversized.