joe90

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joe90 last won the day on June 19

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About joe90

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  • About Me
    Retired small time builder with a lust to make, mend, build or invent anything worthwhile. I have waited over 20 years to build my retirement abode and finally with the help of like minded individuals will succeed.
  • Location
    Near Bude in Devon

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  1. Not sure where I heard it but someone stated that if all cars went to electric and gas was ruled out the National Grid would not cope and would have to be massively upgraded.
  2. joe90

    ASHP

    Yup 5KW ASHP, I do have a woodburner as well but mostly for very cold weather (cave man effect👍).
  3. As your paying to have this done if your not satisfied (not fit for purpose) ask the contractor what he proposes 🤔
  4. Also carpets can keep out the draughts (underfloor space should be ventilated) and unless tongue and groove boards (which they may be) small gaps between boards. I doubt Victorians would use 16mm boards so they are probably newer tongue and groove which means as they support one another 16mm might be stronger than non t@g boards.
  5. Well done looks great, you must be well pleased with yourselves (boat looks good too) ultimate garden ornament.
  6. Well that sounds similar to the one I built, the only difference is I used roof trusses so no car lift 🤭. If you used a ridge beam you would have room for it. Trench founds, block with pillar construction, within PD rules, with the overhang of the roof I was able to keep it to 2.5m but the door clears 2.5m. I was worried about condensation from the metal roof and asked about fleece lined panels but they only really work in barn type construction (lots of air flow. Instead I simply used roofing felt under the metal roof and no condensation issues. It’s draughty enough to stop any mould, but cold in the winter (thermal longjohns 🤣).
  7. It’s for water or condensation in the frame, not cill. The holes are in the bottom of the frame and any water runs out of that gap between frame and stub cill. That’s why you should not fill that outside gap between stub cill and frame.
  8. @zoothorn, I think it will be more important to have the frame into the render equally both sides, if not it will look odd from the outside. You can build up the plaster as your hacking it off anyway. Is the window frame width equal from the outside?.
  9. I can’t wait for a sewerage treatment plant that produces gas to heat the home or run the car 🤔
  10. @zoothorn make sure you give them accurate measurements INCLUDING THE CILL, and make that very apparent on your order. Have come across some firms that have got this wrong.
  11. So you should get it finished quicker then 🤷‍♂️ Just be grateful it’s not cold and wet (it will be soon).
  12. Your pic shows your existing window has a wooden cill on top of a concrete one (external) so you would buy a UPVC window and cill that would sit on top of the concrete one (which will stay in place), the cill comes separately and you need to fix (screw) these together but you need to only use silicone on the back edge of the window base. (I will draw you a diagram when your ready to instal it. Does that Make sense?
  13. yes, UPVC frames are hollow and in case any rain/water/condensation enters that void they have drain holes in the bottom. That is why when you stick the UPVC cill you must only put silicone on the inside edge otherwise you trap the water in there. Will try to find a pic. here you go…..https://www.everest.co.uk/doors/how-to-stop-water-coming-in-through-my-door/