joe90

Mine is next to the manifold but I guess it could be at the buffer. 🤷‍♂️

I was told once that some repair engineers won’t work on appliances if they cannot isolate them before starting work, not sure if it’s true, when I used to fit kitchens I preferred to put a socket in the adjacent cupboard 👍

It was a duff designed bypass built into the manifold that caused the problem. Blanking it off and installing a “proper” temp mixing valve sorted it ( after I balanced the two pumps etc).yes a decent mixing valve is essential IMO.

Indeed I did, the coil was not transferring enough heat into the buffer, but it was heated by an ASHP which tends to heat at a cooler temp. I abandoned the coil and made it direct and with a decent mixer it now works much better 👍(thanks to @PeterW).

Bugger, just when I thought all was well, filled up with antifreeze/inhibitor and notice the flow gauges are less than they were. Wunda say 2 to 2.5 for a 100m loop, even with the pump at max (6) I can only get the loops up to 1.5. I tend to believe that the over blending that was happening with the original set up would not have caused the problem with say a gas boiler chucking 60’ water at it. Now I am trying to feed it with 30’ water it’s failing to perform. I wonder if the TRV type valves at each end (left fully open) are causing a flow restriction. 🤯

Yes plastic is not allowed indoors in case of fire melting it, mine had to be converted to copper as it entered the house.

Yes, yellow stuff, just ran it round the house in a Trench, sand and dig tape over the top. Local gas guy connected it up and signed it off.

my gas pipe for the hob had to run around the outside .

Whatever boiler you use insulate as much as possible, you only buy insulation once. My other half insisted on gas for the hob, 19kg bottle lasts nearly a year. Instal a large DHW tank and PV ready for an ASHP if you decide on gas for the short term.

I did similar, 6 x 2 rafter tails (bolted to my i joists) with tongue and groove above to look like an old roof structure, 150mm facia looks fine.

Not that I am aware of, which is why I did all mine in plastic and from manifolds to give more control and less interference (drop in pressure when under the shower!). My only gripe with our new build is sound transference between floors if I did it again I would double board and use sound bars and pay more attention to sound holes.

Hooray, it’s fixed. As I suspected the “bypass valve” built into the manifold is pants, it allowed way too much cold so the loops never got up to temp and it’s not adjustable. I have blocked the internal bypass and installed a separate blending valve and it all works. All I have to do now is play with the flows and temps. Many thanks chaps 👍

My builder did a firm quote fir founds, shell, roof and plastering and I did all the rest.

Interesting as nearly everyone here said my large south facing conservatory would over heat, but it has not, in fact it contributes a lot of heat to the house in the shoulder seasons. On a sunny but cold winters day my heating rarely comes on. Yes mine is outside the heating envelope and has large doors and windows that can be opened. P.V. can be used to run air conditioning as the sun shines when it’s needed!.

That’s been my thought all along, it more a relief valve than temp controlling. The threads etc are different so can’t mount the pump directly, however I could mount the new blending valve in the feed 22 mm pipework and use cool from the return pipework ???, means blanking off the existing valve (like I did before to prove a point) and leaving the TRV valve but removing the head so it stays permanently open.