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Faz

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Faz last won the day on March 19

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  1. I only have one screw that popped and I am going to patch it up fairly soon as a temporary fix. Will go for the cills and any other cracks when I can be arsed next spring.
  2. They normally come pre-primed so it won't make much difference. If you are doing it all in summer then this will help you. At the end of the day the timber is going to shrink - just leave it for a year and then sort it all out with caulk when it has stabilised.
  3. The Polypipe stuff is fine - joints generally work well if it is fitted properly and it looks pretty good. Can't go wrong really.
  4. This 100%. Wasted £500 on a condensing tumble drier - never used it and probably never will as the humidity control with MVHR is awesome. Air is fresh, no condensation, dry stuff indoors in a few hours all year round - it is great. I think these things work best in a new build / total ripout as you can make sure that the bends in the pipes are minimal and in the right places - noise is a common complaint and these are probably mainly in retro fits I imagine.
  5. I would have an early chat with them and find a decent mutual solution. You don't really want to get in a 'Get Off My Land' conversation if it is unnecessary and get everyone riled up. Clearly it shouldn't be there but it is so, if an easy solution can be found, then everything is amicable. Had a similar issue on my current site - the neighbor's waste cut across my site and I ended up smashing it to bits when we dug the Plot 1 foundation (no-one knew it was there). Sorted it out and ended up using it as a lateral connection to the sewer saving us about £10k.
  6. A fully recessed box may be ok for power but you can only have semi recessed for gas if you are connected. They won't even let you screw the box to the facing brick.
  7. It is the MVHR regulating humidity. I had the same - moved in 17th Feb. Heating just gone on and didn't have much time to slowly ramp it up and MVHR commissioned pretty much at the same time. What would take a 'normal' house to dry out happened at least 10x faster. Only had 1 board pop with a couple of drywall screws so that isn't much of an issue. The cills and architrave and the like shrunk real quick. I stocked up on some caulk and will probably hit it late summer if I can be arsed. So maybe in a year to 2 then.....
  8. No surprise on the target date - the planners are all still 'shirking' at home. You will get a call asking for an extension of time soon - that is the time to pin them down and get it sorted.
  9. I have wet ufh downstairs and rads upstairs with electric ufh to the bathrooms. Since moving in early this year I have turned to upstairs rads off and no-one has ever used the ufh in the bathrooms. The ground floor heat loops are so effective it sorts the entire house. I used Prowarm electric mats which were fairly cheap and easy to install but you then have the faffing about with laytex screed and the like. I wouldn't bother if I were you.
  10. No way on knowing without context mate. Some Local Authorities like extensions to have a stepped down roof line and some are not bothered etc. Chuck it in - you can always amend the drawings if needs be and keep the current application live.
  11. There is a lot going on here which may belong in different packages. Looking at the fundamentals - Setting out - £not much Digging the strip - 5.5T digger and a dumper for a week with 2 blokes - £1500 - 2k concrete - depending on the depth at whatever rate you have per cubic m - you are probably going to get through £15k of concrete + at current pricing Then you want to get your brickies in to take it to the beam level Groundworkers or whoever (easy to do yourself) to set the below ground drainage and water duct etc) and take out past the foundation - you don't want to be worrying about the septic tank and soakaway at this point Whoever to do the beam and block (again easy to do with a mate or two). I did 2 x 1,650 sq. ft plots plus my 3,000 sq. ft. house with floorspan E-floor Plus for £6,500 including installation (I couldn't be arsed tbh) Brickies to splash Don't see how that adds up to £75k although someone is offering to take away your hassle at a big markup.
  12. Sounds very expensive - get more quotes. You will find a list of approved contractors on you local water board's website. With no traffic management etc I would be expecting nearer to £2 - 3k for that unless the sewer was really deep.
  13. I don't see how that vent works as it is below ground level and will have no airflow....
  14. My place looked like the Somme after running machinery on it for 2 winters. I got a local farmer in with a cultivator to go over it and he is coming back with a power harrow next week. Hopefully it will do the trick.
  15. It is a design issue. Taylor Wimpy didn't retain dDRM (the original architect) and went elsewhere - same with the SE. Looks like they cocked it up. I am sure there are a few dusting off their professional indemnity policies....
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