• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

5 Neutral

1 Follower

About epsilonGreedy

  • Rank
  1. Log burner

    I followed this up, prices are not frightening though I might struggle to meet the 3m safe distance tank rule. Is 34p per litre competitive?
  2. Log burner

    Much appreciated, I had not encountered that site. Pleased to read that brick and block self builders can join the passive pursuit.
  3. Log burner

    Not quite The starting point is no mains gas, a garden that will not accommodate a regular LPG tank and a dislike of oil heating having lived with it for 4 winters. Cooking via LPG. From a social perspective the happiest occasions in the last few years have been centered around an open fire with for example the grand daughter staying overnight and playing with her dolls house. My current tentative heating design will be based on a 250 l thermal store connected to economy 7, a wood burning stove/boiler and an lpg gas boiler for urgent top up. On a typical working day a brief 6 am central heating blast should bump the house temperature up to a tolerable 18 degrees. At 4 pm the residual thermal store heat should be enough to warm the house then at say 7pm we can elect to fire up the woodburner stove or rely on LPG heating top up if it is a mild day. My concern is heat regulation on those freezing deep winter weekends. If OH gets carried away with stoking the stove then after a long burn the stove's boiler water circuit might struggle to shed heat. I hope that with sufficient water volume the system will not be too thermally spikey. My current guess for total water volume is 200 + 70 (rads) + 25 (pipes), that should soak up a lot of heat and then there are those sash windows.
  4. Log burner

    I have a cunning plan for heat dumping, they are called opening sash windows. Trouble is that will confuse the MVHR system and now I am worrying that my house will go critical, will unstable isotopes emitted up the chimney from my wood burner get caught in the EMF field of my racing MVHR system and trigger nuclear fusion?
  5. Log burner

    This is encouraging to hear and I hope air tightness is where a rookie like me can make a difference by prowling around after 5pm with an array of sealant guns. I cannot find public domain info covering airtight techniques for conventional brick & block designs. Indeed. I am already discovering that apparent late stage build events need to be designed in detail before foundations are poured e.g. adopting a wall hung toilet design can move an upper floor soil pipe exit by two feet which then means an inconsequential casement window in the room below needs to shuffled a few bricks left or right but oh no that puts the window aperture too close to a 90 degree turn in block work.
  6. Log burner

    I have only frequented this forum for 3 weeks and it is becoming apparent that solid fuel heating is the closest this forum gets to a political schism.
  7. Log burner

    Ok fair enough, I am still on the nursery slopes of my self build learning curve. I was planning to design in a through the floor air feed for my wood burner before my build commences. If, to guess a number, I can get my brick & block, concrete beam floor house down to a score of 5 for air tightness i.e. twice as good as current building regulations, would a sealed stove with an external air feed be a wasted endeavour?
  8. Log burner

    I thought Log Burner + MVHR = External Air Feed Only? Wouldn't any room aspirated stove cause so much air leakage it would upset the MVHR air exchange balance.
  9. Which is worse, heave or subsidence?

    I had not considered the issue of drain disconnection. The Cranford Soilscape map describes the soil for my plot as "Slowly permeable seasonally wet slightly acid but base-rich loamy and clayey soils". http://www.landis.org.uk/soilscapes/index.cfm The prompt for my question was a thought about the best time of year to pour foundations. If a clay soil is prone to some seasonal expansion/contraction I wonder if the best time to create foundations is half way through this cycle i.e stress the foundations with 10mm of heave and 10mm of subsidence as opposed to pouring foundations in late August with subsequent 20mm of heave.
  10. Which is worse, heave or subsidence?

    When designing foundations which dynamic force worries a structural engineer more: An upwards force, or. The ground beneath the foundations dropping away. In the context of this question I am not referring to diagnosed heave or subsidence that is already damaging a building, my interest is which presents more concern when designing trench foundations to cope with anticipated heave or subsidence.
  11. Strength of single skin decorative brick bonds.

    I am beginning to doubt my original concern which launched me down this investigation of cutting. For background, I noticed that on a nearby build with a special bond the bricks were not splitting 50/50.
  12. What tools/electronic gadgets to set out?

    You guys have saved me some dosh here as I have curtailed my desire for a hi-tech surveyors laser. My revised plan is to buy that Cotech end-of-line basic function laser measure for under £40 and then a water level gauge for £25. I have two survey tapes in my tool kit already. This basic kit and some schoolboy trigonometry should be enough to: Set out a trial foundation plan on site to verify the suggested building fits the plot. Measure gradients to then calculate excavation effort. Lay out a drainage plan to measure falls. Will the cheapest water level gauge with 20 meters of connecting tube be ok? Would a 10 meter tube settle faster?
  13. What tools/electronic gadgets to set out?

    I have already discovered how much O-Level trigonometry I have forgotten. I still think I should buy a basic laser distance measuring device so that during build I can keep a covert eye on the accuracy of work by various subcontractors e.g. check how straight/square internal walls are or stud wall frame positions. Looking online I see that a handheld laser measure starts under £50, hobby laser spirit levels are < £100 and a basic surveying kit for measuring incline is about £200 but I am unsure what the features mean at this point.
  14. What tools/electronic gadgets to set out?

    Sorry I missed some essential info. Trenchfill foundations, concrete beam/insulation/screed ground floor, brick & block two story wall construction. Probably 0.5m variation in the site across the foundation plan area and hopefully less than a 1:30 gradient in the longest drainage run of say 30 meters.
  15. Strength of single skin decorative brick bonds.

    The brick manufacturer has warned that one of the styles in the mix is particularly heavy hence a single delivery will not have the typical number of bricks.