epsilonGreedy

A professional letting agency would declare a lack of heating at this time of year to be a critical situation that must be resolved within a few days. In view of your other thread just the declare the rental property to be uninhabitable and move back into your nearly rebuilt house. Is the deposit held with a 3rd party?

Given the cumulative diagnostic effort to get @joe90sorted I wonder if there is merit in the collective brains of this forum specifying a BuildHub no-frills UFH reference design? If it was uploaded to GitHub under a creative commons licence then future self builders could ask suppliers to quote for bits to install the reference design.

Are these heavy lead batteries or lithium batteries? If lead then you only have 1.6 kWh of daily usable capacity in that bank.

Thanks. What does it mean? A quick Google suggests it is the estimated final market value on completion.

Ok I will bite, have been here 4 years now and that is a new one on me. Guestimated Determined Value?

No. I found 120mm high fascias to be problematic. 150mm is smaller than average. You need to consider the following: The pitch and tile overhang dictates the top lip of the gutter and this will be lower than the fascia top. You need to factor in the extra height of the roof battens on top of the rafters. Some tiles/slates look better with a bit of upwards kick in the first eave course so the fascia top will be higher than that calculated for the batten allowance to support the kick.. Gutter systems have brackets have different heights and you want to make sure the bottom of a bracket does not droop below the fascia. The gutter will need a gradient so having calculated the minimum fascia height for the 4 points above, add the gradient. Finally if ground drainage requires a downpipe at a specific position then double check the wall plate is bang on level. In my case the wall plate was off 5mm the wrong way against the planned gutter gradient which caused some head scratching given my already slim 120mm fascia. A 372mm overhang is unusual but if you want that you will have to abandon the idea of resting the soffit on top of the last course of facing bricks and fit hangers that drop off the rafter tails to provide fixing points for the soffit. This assumes the masonry is complete.

I read the original post 7 hours ago and thought "simples, terminate the contract with the builder and move in asap". My guess is that the builder would like the job to drag on into late Spring, on the pretext of the fire door supply delay, so he can prioritize other work and use @Adsibob's job as a fall back to fill in idle time. I think the OP is looking at this from the wrong perspective of "what I am allowed to do" and "who might be upset if I do". I suggest the thought process should be "if I do what I need to do would I end up facing criminal charges or suffer serious financial penalty and how soon might such consequences manifest". Taking the bankruptcy concern at face value I would plan to move in ahead of a natural break in the current rental tenancy. Just do it without a dialogue with the builder, he has seriously let you down at significant cost. All the builder can do it allege breach of contract and seek damages after the contract is terminated. The cogs of Local Council enforcement move slowly and at the end of the day they just want a tidy conformant wrap-up to the works. Mid works site safety is another department.

How large is this regional variation in percentage terms?

If the kWh price climbs past £0.30 will the traditional cry of of the Rag & Bone Man change from "any old iron" to "any old air source heat pumps"

My boiler needs to be powered cycled off and on at its mains 240v connection if an LPG bottle runs out of gas before it will fire up again with a fresh LPG bottle.

I heard much the same from Martin Lewis on TV, he said the pricing formula is well know and works on 6 month average. At this point it is difficult for the April price to land outside a 40% to 50% range. Martin Lewis also said follow Cornwall Insight to understand the energy market, no not this one @SteamyTeathis one https://www.cornwall-insight.com/price-cap-set-for-46-rise-for-summer-2022-winter-2022-23-cap-may-exceed-2000/

I hate to rain on your recent sprint of progress but it is not too late to knock off the 3rd row of trench blocks along the rear 3rd of the footings while the mortar is still green. The cost of rebuilding that footing course as a cavity wall with regular blocks and facing bricks might be smaller than raising the land an additional 225mm along 20m linear meters of external wall. Just two additional points. Aerated trench blocks do not like freeze thaw cycles so need to be clearly below ground level. Also would a 1.5m high rampart along the rear wall frustrate garden landscape plans? Presumably your architect thought all this through so providing you are not deviating from his plan you can ignore internet experts. Do you need mobility ramps at all external doors?

Crikey that is a lot of back filling. You have a tricky financial equation to get right between rapid progress with footing blocks now and later backfilling cost v. Switching gear now and using regular facing bricks lower down and thus saving on hardcore later on. How close to the rear of the house can a laden lorry dump a 20 ton load of hardcore get? You will need a mid size digger for a few days for the back filling, hopefully before autumn weather softens the ground.

True but I hope the finished level will be improved in a following course of regular inner blocks before the floor beams are lifted in. Trench blocks are difficult to level because the large seat area means the blocks do not respond well to leveling taps. Does anyone think the 3rd course of trench blocks is a mistake? If a 4th course of regular medium blocks is required to take the point loads of floor beams the FFL/DPC is going to be way above ground. Maybe the front door is approached via a castle drawbridge!

I gave up after 5 tons and ended up with a humongous 200mm thick slab for the garage.