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Onoff last won the day on January 15

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About Onoff

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  1. Imho any underground duct might be subject to condensation internally, more so if the cables run a bit warm. This could conceivably pool at any low point in the duct and affect and cable laying in it. I imagine this is one reason why any cable in a duct should be "duct rated". Paranoia? The regs touch on the issue of condensation, protection against moisture etc. The last bit of duct I ran I even considered running a length of aquarium tube in there so I could periodically pump out whatever, if anything, got in there. I even considered punching some drain holes mid point in the duct, wrapping in landscape fabric and packing gravel around it before concreting. Of course then I worried about the water table etc so in the end did nothing! I just ran everything in 20mm conduit and kept those together with some black dowpipe for neatness when concreting. Just noted that photo was taken in June 2014 @readiescards and it's still not finished! Tell your missus
  2. EPS 300 and lower

    What dia Nichrome have you gone for? I faffed making one with Kanthal wire from an online vape store. Although it worked for a bit the wire kept breaking and I burnt the wall wart psu out! I had even done some rough Ohms Law calcs as well. Figure it needs a constant current psu maybe. Got bored and gave up! Even my missus had a go...
  3. @readiescards, you're not thinking 24V DC for a system with solar charged batteries are you?
  4. This I think is the opener manual: idv0532a01en.pdf Says on page 3 of the above that the MC824H control panel is compatible with the 36W LFAB4024 and the XLFAB5024 50W. And here's the manual for that: D00011568.pdf The control panel still needs 230V AC to it even though the motors are 24V DC I think you'll find. All the cable sizes / run lengths are in the manual on page 2 of the second manual.
  5. Compact RCBOs

    I retitled this "Compact RCBOs" as it's going away from Wylex.
  6. I hear you! I don't want to read it but feel strangely compelled to do so...
  7. Why do they make a different noise to other cats?
  8. Meccano Magazine

    Sure this isn't you?
  9. Proper Downlights / Airtight

    For that I'm thinking a big box made from pink plasterboard. Then with the vcl over that.
  10. Can I re-use these for my roof?

    Excuse to build an insulated dog kennel?
  11. Flasher's mac like yours d'you mean?
  12. Compact RCBOs

    Ah! I didn't realise the board was feeding sub mains. I thought it was an overkill seeing as you are using Compacts hence no fly leads! For others here thinking wtf, consider a metal cu on a TT system. The earthing arrangement is likely nowhere near as good as with TN systems. The incoming meter tails are stranded copper cores that are sheathed and insulated, in effect double insulated but it's actually wrong to call them that even though the sheath is insulating! They will come in through a plastic gland. Quick CAD sketch (in lieu of my earlier fag packet sketch - felt the thread deserved better): You have in the cu for want of a better word "fly leads" from the main switch to the individual RCDs in the case of a split load board. These fly leads are single insulated. They're also pretty flexible by construction. Add to that the modern move away from two screw terminations in main switches to one bfo screw (bad move imo). That's a big bone of contention on the basis it's easy for it to loosen. NEVER, EVER think that these screws are factory tightened properly, always check. So with potentially dodgy single screws and springy, single insulated, flexible conductors, if one comes adrift it could easily touch the metal enclosure...and that's BAD! Wasn't a huge issue before when a TT enclosure had to be made from "plastic". So the way round this, in a TT is to fit an upfront TD RCD in place of the normal DP main switch. Wire comes adrift, touches the case, TD RCD trips. The 100mA rating is there to give fault protection for the single insulated cables that feed the 30mA RCDs. If you put a normal, no time delay 100mA RCD in front of the line of 30mA RCDs it doesn't guarantee it won't trip first hence the time delay element. Only a TD 100mA provides proper discrimination. There's a lot of confusion over time delay but think of it like this: A fault occurs on an outgoing circuit in excess of 100mA you would think that it should trip the 30mA RCD first if that's before a 100mA RCD. But normal BS EN RCDs (& RCBOs) only have to trip within 300ms. The issue is that the 100mA RCD if non time delay may react quicker than the 30mA RCD. Making the 100mA RCD time delay gives the 30mA a chance to trip first. Hope that makes sense. If you look at the SBS Compact assembly the bus bars take the place of the single insulated fly leads. They're affixed at multiple points and can't really come undone and spring against the enclosure.
  13. Cheers. This is the content of the CD, presumably I first need to make an .ISO of the disc? What's best for that? Ta.